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Mr. Mambold posted:Have you considered a crosscut sled+box joint jig that turns over as a bench/shoe organizer? Just thinking out loud here.... Now you're really onto something.
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Oct 1, 2017 00:45
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My mom salvaged a "nice looking" pallet from work. As I'm inwardly groaning at her description, she opens up her trunk and shows it to me.  After looking it over for a second I realize that's not regular pallet poo poo pine, it's solid maple. She wanted me to make "something" with it but didn't really care what. The horrible nails used in it made taking it apart intact rather iffy, so I cut out the nail-less chunks and made another cutting block out of it.  I made it thinner than I'd prefer just due to how little wood I had to make it a usable size, so there's a layer of birch plywood glued to the bottom to keep it solid. Even still it's not amazingly big, I think 6x9". Between that and my concerns about using the wood of a pallet of unknown origin in a food product, I'm half considering buying enough home depot maple to make a better one for her instead. Eventually I'll spend the hours to vice grip every single ring shank nail out of the big middle pieces and do something with those, probably.
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Oct 1, 2017 01:00
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My wife has started taking up woodworking projects. She made a really nice headboard already but she's using a small, cheap assortment of tools and a borrowed circular saw. I'd like to get her something nice for Christmas. What tool would make the best (versatility?) gift for a new woodworker? I'd like to stay under $300.
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Oct 2, 2017 01:27
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Calling it: a used 14" band saw off of Craigslist
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Oct 2, 2017 01:51
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me your dad posted:My wife has started taking up woodworking projects. She made a really nice headboard already but she's using a small, cheap assortment of tools and a borrowed circular saw. Trim router w/ fixed and plunge base
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Oct 2, 2017 02:21
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Raise your budget to $400 and get her the Makita track saw with the 55" rail.
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Oct 2, 2017 02:44
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me your dad posted:My wife has started taking up woodworking projects. She made a really nice headboard already but she's using a small, cheap assortment of tools and a borrowed circular saw. Possibly the only time you could buy your wife a shop vac and have it be appropriate. I would go that and a router.
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Oct 2, 2017 03:05
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NPR Journalizard posted:Possibly the only time you could buy your wife a shop vac and have it be appropriate. I would go that and a router. Shop Vac was going to be my second idea
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Oct 2, 2017 03:21
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Hubis posted:Shop Vac was going to be my second idea Plus then it sets you up to buy the next gift of a cyclone separator.
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Oct 2, 2017 03:33
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me your dad posted:My wife has started taking up woodworking projects. She made a really nice headboard already but she's using a small, cheap assortment of tools and a borrowed circular saw. On the joinery side, you could consider a set of chisels ($~70), sharpening stones ($100-300, see earlier this page), a good marking knife ($17-infinity), a 12" Starrett combination square ($70), or a block plane (many options, I love the Lie-nielsen rabbet block plane, $175). E: Ooh, and a forums account to post in this thread 
ColdPie fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 12:45
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Going on record to say I hate the like Nielsen rabbet block plane, but that the regular one is great. So many opportunities to cut yourself with many normal block plane grips. Otherwise that is a great list, especially the combo square and marking knife.
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Oct 2, 2017 13:35
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NPR Journalizard posted:Possibly the only time you could buy your wife a shop vac and have it be appropriate. I would go that and a router. She bought herself a shop vac when she set out to build the head board. A router sounds like a good idea. Is there a reason nobody is suggesting something like a saw?
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Oct 2, 2017 14:21
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me your dad posted:She bought herself a shop vac when she set out to build the head board. What kind of saw do you mean? We really don't have enough info to know what to recommend. Plus you said she already had access to a circular saw. I think a track saw is a great place to start for someone with no saw at all and no dedicated shop space.
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Oct 2, 2017 14:41
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Available space for whatever you get her is also a huge factor, perhaps even more so than budget.
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Oct 2, 2017 14:45
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GEMorris posted:Going on record to say I hate the like Nielsen rabbet block plane, but that the regular one is great. It was my first block plane, so I never had to re-learn how to grip it. I like it because it can do everything a normal block plane can, but it can also cut and clean up tenon cheeks and shoulders, rabbets, and I've even used it to cut beads. It can do a lot for a single tool. Of course the correct answer is to buy both :P
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Oct 2, 2017 14:59
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Bad Munki posted:Available space for whatever you get her is also a huge factor, perhaps even more so than budget. Seriously the best gift might just be "I cleared out this section of the garage basement so you have a 10'x10' space to work in!"
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Oct 2, 2017 16:10
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Hubis posted:Seriously the best gift might just be "I cleared out this section of the garage basement so you have a 10'x10' space to work in!" Please get this for me
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Oct 2, 2017 16:12
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Hey guys. So I was about to gel stain my furniture when I realized last week that the gel would collect in the pocket holes. (They were unfilled because they were not visible, really...) I found out about getting some plugs and a flush trim saw (there were posts in this thread, etc..) and got them. Little did I realize I totally loving failed to take into account I cannot really GET at the pocket holes or get the saw in there due to diagonal bracing, etc...  So, i come seeking advice: Do I: Just gel stain everything and maybe hit those holes with an implement when it comes time to wipe down? (q-tip or similar?) Fill it with wood filler putty? (I think I can get a putty knife in there to flatten and then hand-sand. Again, I care not about appearance that much (Short of not wanting to leave it unfinished...). I just didn't want a bunch of gel stain goop drying in there and also I will be applying Poly afterwards. Thoughts?
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Oct 2, 2017 20:48
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Firmly in the "don't worry about it" category. Clean it up with a rag/q-tip to get any excess out and call it good. You could wipe a little shellac/pre-stain conditioner in there first if you're really going to be forever bothered by darker pocket holes underneath your furniture.GEMorris posted:Going on record to say I hate the like Nielsen rabbet block plane, but that the regular one is great. LN rabbet block plane rules, but the little brass LN 102 block/apron plane is sort of a secondary necessity imo. I definitely have sliced myself up from holding it the wrong way(s). Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Oct 2, 2017 |
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Oct 2, 2017 21:20
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Feenix posted:Hey guys. So I was about to gel stain my furniture when I realized last week that the gel would collect in the pocket holes. (They were unfilled because they were not visible, really...) Wood filler might be the least worst option.
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Oct 2, 2017 21:25
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Feenix posted:Hey guys. So I was about to gel stain my furniture when I realized last week that the gel would collect in the pocket holes. (They were unfilled because they were not visible, really...) Are you going with a glass top? Totally don't worry about it, that's the small price you pay with pocket holes. Nobody will even see it. If the holes stain darker, that's because you and God intended it that way. Big NO to putty or wood filler, then it looks like hammered gently caress. edit- but if you're really going to obsess over it, get some dowels of that diameter, shape them and glue in. That's going to be more work than all the rest of it, guaranteed. Bonus points if you can turn or find some dark wood dowels like walnut.
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Oct 2, 2017 22:11
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It's going to have a marble top. LIterally don't care other than leaving PHYSICAL gunk in there (dried/gummy gel stain...) And you won't be able to see it easily, but just potentially if you were laying on the floor looking toward the underside of the table. I'll probably just swab em out a bit. Thanks guys. 
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Oct 2, 2017 22:37
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That's the inside of the frame, under the top, right? I wouldn't even waste the time to finish those surfaces. Just do the visible surfaces plus an inch up the inside face and call it good.
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Oct 3, 2017 00:54
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Feenix posted:And you won't be able to see it easily, but just potentially if you were laying on the floor looking toward the underside of the table. Go to a museum and look underneath drawers, inside carcasses, and behind backs, and then consider your position on this. (And then run, because security is about to have a word with you.) Master woodworkers are such partly because they know when good is enough.
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Oct 3, 2017 17:07
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One Legged Ninja posted:Go to a museum and look underneath drawers, inside carcasses, and behind backs, and then consider your position on this. (And then run, because security is about to have a word with you.) This is actually a very fine position and has made me consider things from a new perspective. I will still try to stain as much as I can but will not overburden myself trying to be a perfectionist. Thanks! Best suggestion for prep/setup for stain? I'm going to Home Depot today. Should I get a canvas dropcloth?
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Oct 3, 2017 18:01
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Pre-stained pocket hole plugs will get you 95% of the way there for minimal effort anyway if you really want.
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Oct 3, 2017 18:26
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Javid posted:Pre-stained pocket hole plugs will get you 95% of the way there for minimal effort anyway if you really want. Yes but the problem is getting them in there and flush. I have pocket holes. The staining of them is not my concern at all. It's not having enough working space in the tight corners with the diagonal bracers to cut and sand them flush, etc. I'm past that, though. I'm all about just leaving them exposed.
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Oct 3, 2017 19:19
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ColdPie posted:That's the inside of the frame, under the top, right? I wouldn't even waste the time to finish those surfaces. Just do the visible surfaces plus an inch up the inside face and call it good. It is. It's nice ash wood, and a 300 dollar marble top. I kinda just wanted it to be a piece my kids might have and thusly be quality all around. *shrug* we'll see how much of a hassle it is. [Ed] sorry thought this posted earlier. Irrelevant now, but for posterity
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Oct 3, 2017 20:00
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So it was advised to me that gel stain is the easy-mode of staining. I set up my drop cloth. I was outside. I applied it to my end table frame. I was barely done coating it onto the wood when I looped around to my start to get a rag and wipe it down and it was so dry and tacky that it took INSANE amounts of elbow grease (and left lots of rag haiirs.) After an hour of trying to wipe this poo poo down, arms on fire, sweat literally blinding my eyes, I got some mineral spirits. It made it considerably easier. But god drat... So what was my mistake? Did I do too much at once and it get too dry? Did I put too much on? Not enough? Even though it was only a 64 degree day, was the sun a drying factor? I'd love to learn for the future.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:46
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Feenix posted:So it was advised to me that gel stain is the easy-mode of staining. I set up my drop cloth. I was outside. I applied it to my end table frame. I made a similar mistake where I let it dry too much. I think it only takes 10-15 minutes to get really tacky. The easiest way I had to get it off was to put more on top of the dried spots and then wipe it off. It dissolves itself so a minute or two after reapplying you should be able to wipe it off.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:51
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Gealar posted:I made a similar mistake where I let it dry too much. I think it only takes 10-15 minutes to get really tacky. The easiest way I had to get it off was to put more on top of the dried spots and then wipe it off. It dissolves itself so a minute or two after reapplying you should be able to wipe it off. OOh, good idea. It was definitely under 15 min. But maybe the sun just dried it faster.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:59
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Feenix posted:OOh, good idea. It was definitely under 15 min. But maybe the sun just dried it faster. General rule of thumb: Don't apply stain in the direct sunlight.
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Oct 4, 2017 22:41
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Mr. Mambold posted:General rule of thumb: Don't apply stain in the direct sunlight. NOW YOU loving TELL ME!!  This is about the look/ rustic feel I was going for. But I cannot decide if it's worth another quick slathering to see if I can go a little deeper. It's ash, so it started REALLY bright. And the stain is a walnut. Feenix fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Oct 4, 2017 |
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Oct 4, 2017 22:43
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I'll give my one piece of woodworking advice again: Test your stain on a piece of scrap. For example here, you could try a second layer on your piece of scrap, see if you like the result?
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Oct 5, 2017 02:04
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https://imgur.com/a/bcw0s Finally got the pantorouter build to a usable state. Operating with one hand while trying to take a video is not the best, but this thing's a great way to dust up the garage. (couldn't embed)
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Oct 5, 2017 02:07
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How hard is it to make the templates for the pantorouter such that you'll get tight fitting mortise and tennons, for example?
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Oct 5, 2017 02:37
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Mr. Mambold posted:General rule of thumb: Don't apply stain in the direct sunlight. In my experience, gel stain dries much more quickly than a traditional oil-based stain (Minwax, General Finishes, etc oil based). That's in my garage, so I can only imagine it was even faster in direct sunlight. Also, don't apply stain in direct sunlight if you can. ForestHobo fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Oct 5, 2017 |
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Oct 5, 2017 14:05
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Don't write in starlight 'cause the words may come out real.
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Oct 5, 2017 14:18
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I've got a couple of unfinished white oak bookshelves. I've never used wood dyes before but I'm reading that they let the grain show through more than a stain does, so I'm thinking of using dye instead of stain. Do they work well on oak?
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Oct 5, 2017 14:45
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Yes, analine dyes work exceptionally well on porous grained woods like oak.
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Oct 5, 2017 15:37
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