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Almost all they got in stores here for woodworking are torx screws nowadays, and what I prefer. Usually T20 or T25, the only thing I miss are black matte screws like some drywall ones, look a lot better.
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Oct 25, 2017 05:57
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I bought a bunch of used tools last December and now I'm getting around to using them with a purpose. I have an old Craftsman belt drive table saw with the motor hanging off the back, a drill press, a scroll saw, a jig saw, a random orbit sander, and two small Craftsman routers. I want to build a computer desk made up of several lidless boxes made with finger joints. I've been practicing by making lots of smaller boxes out of materials of varying costs, including construction grade 1x4 pine, 3/4" oak veneer plywood, 1/2" birch plywood, and the premium pine sold at Home Depot. I would like to use birch plywood for reduced costs, high dimensional stability, strength, and because I think the layers look neat when they are sanded and finished. I want to finish with Danish oil and leave all the box joints exposed. The problem I'm having is that no matter what I do, I get at least a little tearout on the back side of the plywood as it goes through my dado set. I have tried using backer boards, and it helps quite a bit, but I still get some tearout. I have tried putting painter's tape on the back side of the boards. All that does is make everything look OK until I peel the tape off. I bought a brand new Diablo 8" dado set. I'm cutting 0.270" dados. My finger joint jig is a home made unit set up following William Ng's Youtube video instructions. The joints fit together awesome except for the ugly gaps where the veneer tears out. What can I do to end the tearout problems? Use bigger fingers? Smaller? Is there a particular material that works better for backer board? I've been using 1/4" plywood with a couple experimental runs using hardboard. Would something like MDF work better as backer board? So far, my materials have come from Home Depot and Lowes because they are close to my house and because they offer 2x4 sheets that fit in my Jeep and reduce risk. I was looking at Menards, and they have some Birch and "engineered oak" (poplar veneer) plywood that has a lot more layers and looks like it has a thicker veneer than the HD stuff. It is only offered in 4x8 sheets, so I'm out $50 if it turns out not to be any better than what HD offers. If anyone has suggestions of where to go for better quality plywood in the Omaha, NE area, I'm all ears.
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Oct 25, 2017 13:55
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Slugworth posted:Nothing fancy, but I finished my first box joint... box. Lots of gaps, crudely filled with sawdust and glue, but I'm satisfied enough for the first time out. Next one will be dovetails, and less rushed. Very nice! Birds eye maple and walnut?
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Oct 25, 2017 14:12
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4 coats of waterlox. About to do the glue up, fill any gaps, and then do one very light coat in place: 
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Oct 25, 2017 14:57
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PBCrunch posted:
Thicker backer boards definitely help, also having them extremely flat helps (mdf is perfect). Any flex away from the backer will introduce a little tearout. The other big thing is cheap, ultra thin veneer plywood. Hardwood veneer/softwood ply from Depot is notorious for bad veneer adhesion. That will always be a struggle against tearout. Definitely give the poplar core stuff a shot. Also, you can put the inside face against the backer, so any tear out you get isnt on a show face. Or at least slightly less of a show face in the case of boxes. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:36 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 25, 2017 15:32
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PBCrunch posted:I bought a bunch of used tools last December and now I'm getting around to using them with a purpose. I have an old Craftsman belt drive table saw with the motor hanging off the back, a drill press, a scroll saw, a jig saw, a random orbit sander, and two small Craftsman routers. You're going to get tearout with plywood doing what you're doing, that's the nature of the beast. The only way I was ever able to work around that was by either scoring the backside or figuring a way to climb-cut score it. Obviously with a dado pack, you (probably) won't be able to do that. If you were cutting the joints with a router, you might be able to.
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Oct 25, 2017 16:20
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Last pic post, i promise. I ended up not gluing the joints. between the biscuits and the wood screws into the frame, it feels very solid. I wouldn't be able to get the bed back out of the room with the wood installed and removing it after glue up would be a pain.
asmasm fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 25, 2017 16:51
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All that for your dog? 
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Oct 25, 2017 17:00
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asmasm posted:Last pic post, i promise. I ended up not gluing the joints. between the biscuits and the wood screws into the frame, it feels very solid. I wouldn't be able to get the bed back out of the room with the wood installed and removing it after glue up would be a pain. Amazing job. I love that bed frame. Good dog.
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Oct 25, 2017 17:09
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mds2 posted:Amazing job. I love that bed frame. Thanks, the frame was fun to build. I love working with square tube and I got to do some pretty crazy notches for all the tubing intersections.
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Oct 25, 2017 17:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:You're going to get tearout with plywood doing what you're doing, that's the nature of the beast. The only way I was ever able to work around that was by either scoring the backside or figuring a way to climb-cut score it. Obviously with a dado pack, you (probably) won't be able to do that. If you were cutting the joints with a router, you might be able to. Would a scoring cut of 1-2mm help or would it have to be a climbing cut? Also that's a really nice bed there, I've never seen anything quite like it.
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Oct 25, 2017 17:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:Would a scoring cut of 1-2mm help or would it have to be a climbing cut? I'd think that would do it, but you never know if the layer beneath the veneer is poorly glued and comes roaring out. I'd then go really slow. TooMuchAbstraction posted:All that for your dog? U monstre
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Oct 25, 2017 17:49
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asmasm posted:Last pic post, i promise. I ended up not gluing the joints. between the biscuits and the wood screws into the frame, it feels very solid. I wouldn't be able to get the bed back out of the room with the wood installed and removing it after glue up would be a pain. Ow my shins. Pretty nice looking though. Javid posted:I'm frequently at odds with my boss who wants to use cheap drywall screws for everything and I want to use literally anything else. He hates impact drivers, hates any kind of torque setting for driving screws, and thinks pilot holes are a waste of time, so he's constantly splitting boards or leaving little philips-shaped divots in things when that lovely bit cams out and gouges the wood he's working on, while my and my impact gun and square-head screws are just brrt brrt brrt done. I buy in bulk from McFeely's when they have a sale. picklefish fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Oct 25, 2017 |
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Oct 25, 2017 18:42
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Super Waffle posted:Very nice! Birds eye maple and walnut? Yeah, woodcraft had a crazy deal on the birds eye, otherwise I wouldn't have used it for my first attempt.
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Oct 25, 2017 19:33
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Good advice on screws! I hadn't even thought of ordering from Amazon--if I ever thought to get more screws before I was three screws short of finishing a project I might actually do it, too!PBCrunch posted:Finger joint questions cakesmith handyman posted:Would a scoring cut of 1-2mm help or would it have to be a climbing cut? I think scoring it would work, but as others have said, HD plywood is kinda poo poo (Lowes isn't much better but I hate HD so much more so that's what I usually end up with). My local lumberyard with actually good lumber closes at the same time I get off work on weekdays and at 2 on Saturday so I really have to plan ahead if I need quality lumber. PB, another thing you could try is sneaking up on the full depth of the dado to reduce the amount of wood the blade stack is taking at one time. That can often reduce tearout as well.
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Oct 25, 2017 20:42
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There was a recommended book or series of books in this thread a while back, for beginners, anyone remember what it was? My wife is already shopping for Christmas presents.
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Oct 27, 2017 17:50
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Tage Frid?
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Oct 27, 2017 18:13
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cakesmith handyman posted:There was a recommended book or series of books in this thread a while back, for beginners, anyone remember what it was? My wife is already shopping for Christmas presents. There is a list in the OP as well
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Oct 27, 2017 18:24
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I'm a big fan of the Charles Hayward Woodworker series. Also The Anarchists Design Book. God, we've really got to get that op updated, there are such better books out there.
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Oct 27, 2017 18:50
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GEMorris posted:I'm a big fan of the Charles Hayward Woodworker series. Also The Anarchists Design Book. Oh please do - I am getting ready to order one or two.
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Oct 27, 2017 18:52
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Basically anything by Lost Art Press is gold (I've gotten bashed in the past for being a fanboy, but I've never been disappointed with any of their products). The quality (and bredth at this point) of their library means I don't drift out of it that much. Tage Frid's books are good, so is Lonnie Bird's bandsaw book, and Tolpin's New Traditional Woodworker. IMO the better workbench books were written by Schwarz but before he started LAP. So they are published by popular woodworking's label.
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Oct 27, 2017 19:20
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GEMorris posted:Basically anything by Lost Art Press is gold (I've gotten bashed in the past for being a fanboy, but I've never been disappointed with any of their products). The quality (and bredth at this point) of their library means I don't drift out of it that much. I agree with that love anything Lost Art Press, I want to get A Chairmaker's Notebook, but I know I will end up going down the windsor chair rabbet hole which I don't think I'm quite ready for. I'm 99% complete this vanity for my wife, I brought the mirror frame to my glass guy yesterday to have a mirror installed in it. Here's a pic sans mirror, I'll post some completed ones once it's done.  While I was applying the finish to the vanity I built a couple of simple wall cabinets, just a dovetailed box with a door. They are ready for finish, I'm going to start a couple more wall cabinets, I'm sort of at a loss because my whole house is almost furnished via my projects, so I don't know what furniture to do next  Might have to get a bigger house. 
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Oct 27, 2017 22:09
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I agree with that love anything Lost Art Press, I want to get A Chairmaker's Notebook, but I know I will end up going down the windsor chair rabbet hole which I don't think I'm quite ready for. That vanity is gorgeous. Did you design it yourself or get the plans from somewhere?
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Oct 27, 2017 22:14
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Finished my first full-on carving project  Any reason I can’t just toss the chips in the forest? It’s plain old walnut.
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Oct 27, 2017 22:59
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If you have a municipal compost pickup, you could dump the chips in that. Or dump it in the woods, yeah. Untreated/stained/glued wood is not exactly bad for the environment.
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Oct 27, 2017 23:04
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Does anyone use a turbine HVLP for spraying? Does anyone finish their wood with automotive-spec clearcoat? I have some desire to further optimize my system (using both of the above), but it may not be of interest to this thread if nobody actually does that kinda crap.
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Oct 27, 2017 23:18
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I found a local guy on Craigslist that performs milling services for cash and asked him if he knew where I could find premium plywood locally. He put me in touch with an outfit called Intermountain Wood Products and gave me a couple scraps of 13-ply Baltic birch plywood to do some test cuts with. He also gave me this awesome 3" thick 14" diameter piece of roughsawn maple. I also went and visited my friend who owns a custom car audio shop and collected some scraps of 3/4 MDF to use as backer board. I had been making test cuts with 1/4" plywood. I did some passes on the 13-ply birch using the 3/4" MDF as backer board. It gave me amazing clean dado cuts, but the test pieces didn't mesh. I tapered the front of the hardwood peg in my box joint jig to make it easier to get pieces on and off, so some of the cuts weren't lined up correctly. I switched to using 1/4" plywood again and immediately started getting tons of blowout even on the fancy, thick-veneer material. I switched backer board to some 1/2" plywood and got rid of the tearout and still had good cuts. My next purchase will be some 1/2" MDF since I have to borrow someone's full-soze truck and drive over to Intermountain during normal business hours during the week. I figured MDF wouldn't make good backer board because it isn't very strong, but I guess the way it gives way to the blade more gradually than "real" wood or plywood means it offers better support to the workpiece as it goes through the sawblade. Thanks for the advice on that, Hypnolobster.
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Oct 27, 2017 23:29
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Magnus Praeda posted:That vanity is gorgeous. Did you design it yourself or get the plans from somewhere? Thanks, the base is this desk (http://www.finewoodworking.com/2012/02/09/build-a-curved-front-desk), then I added the gallery, stool and mirror to fit my purposes.
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Oct 28, 2017 00:44
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dupersaurus posted:Finished my first full-on carving project You can also use it for smoking meat. The suggestion is to mix it with another wood: 100% walnut smoke can be a little bitter. Those chips already look like an excellent size for smoking with.
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Oct 28, 2017 01:08
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Meow Meow Meow posted:I agree with that love anything Lost Art Press, I want to get A Chairmaker's Notebook, but I know I will end up going down the windsor chair rabbet hole which I don't think I'm quite ready for. Based on your work and the fact that you've filled your house with furniture, sounds like you're ready for that Windsor chair rabbit hole.
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Oct 28, 2017 02:11
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Anyone looked at Steve Ramsey's Weekend Woodworker course that's closing sign-ups tomorrow. I was interested, but can't afford it. Also not sure if I should be doing something like that or if I'd be better off just dicking around my garage and doing skill building stuff.
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Oct 29, 2017 01:24
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 I took an oak log out of the wood pile and sliced it up into boards. It had been sitting outside tarp-covered for more than a year. Will that need a long time to dry, or does most of the moisture get out in log form? Log was probably something like 12" diameter and 14" long. Should I just buy a moisture meter?
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Oct 29, 2017 19:25
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Gounads posted:
I think general rule of thumb is one year per inch of thickness, so depending how long it's been sitting and how big it is. One way to check is to weigh the boards, then a week or two later see if they've gotten lighter, that means they're still losing moisture. Or get a moisture meter.
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Oct 30, 2017 00:24
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Anyone have any experience stripping and staining wainscoting? In a few months I have going to have a project of making this look good again. I figure something like Klean-Strip Strip-X, and a ton of sanding is in my future. Any suggestions on what to throw on it after I clean it up? There is also a doug fir floor under that carpet that is hopefully in good enough shape that it can be saved. Oh, and the bottom part of that wall is a pullout bed. I don't know who that was a good idea.
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Oct 30, 2017 01:55
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DevNull posted:Anyone have any experience stripping and staining wainscoting? In a few months I have going to have a project of making this look good again. What exactly are you not liking about it that you want to do all that? If you want to go back to the same color, there are much easier solutions.
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Oct 30, 2017 02:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:What exactly are you not liking about it that you want to do all that? If you want to go back to the same color, there are much easier solutions. We were looking at making it a bit lighter. What easier solution would you suggest if not changing the color?
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Oct 30, 2017 02:15
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DevNull posted:We were looking at making it a bit lighter. What easier solution would you suggest if not changing the color? Lighter influences the whole rest of the room you know? Going over all of it with an oil stain like minwax or any of those about that same color. It will fill in scratches, etc. like God's own magicalness.
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Oct 30, 2017 02:17
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Mr. Mambold posted:Lighter influences the whole rest of the room you know? Going over all of it with an oil stain like minwax or any of those about that same color. It will fill in scratches, etc. like God's own magicalness. He could just do what they did on that last season of This Old House where took all the beautiful oak paneling in a 100 year-old house and painted it white  Still, I do think it'll be a challenge to lighten the wood by stripping it and keep it consistent.
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Oct 30, 2017 16:09
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Hubis posted:He could just do what they did on that last season of This Old House where took all the beautiful oak paneling in a 100 year-old house and painted it white My wife was wanting to paint over it. She dropped the idea pretty quickly just from the look on my face when she said that. I am not planning on super light. Something like minwax red oak or red chestnut. That picture doesn't really show it, but the color is all over the place in the different parts of the room, and different rooms. It has 100 years of different crap getting thrown on it. There are places where it is bubbling and peeling pretty bad, and I think some places with shellac as well. This picture shows the difference in color a bit more. The upper part is pretty dark, while the lower part is more the color I want. 
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Oct 30, 2017 16:41
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DevNull posted:My wife was wanting to paint over it. She dropped the idea pretty quickly just from the look on my face when she said that. I'm stripping 100 years of paint, stains, varnish, and shellac off a fireplace mantle myself. Pretty much any product you can use, it looks like they've used. It's much darker than yours, but pretty much the only thing that's gotten the color to come out so far is a little heat and mineral spirits. I'm going to try using a wood cleaner, but I'm not holding my breath that it'll do much the mineral spirits didn't do. It did come up from a much darker brown to where I can see the grain again, but there's plenty of color left over that is not going to come out without sanding it down. I'm going to give it another 12 hours one of these days and see if Strip-X will bring it up lighter. I'd expect some of the color to stay regardless, but it did move quite a few shades lighter. It started a little darker than the color of the wood on the top part of your room.
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Oct 30, 2017 17:30
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