|
Hubis posted:Seriously the best gift might just be "I cleared out this section of the garage basement so you have a 10'x10' space to work in!" From several pages back but yes this yes please My garage is an eternal nightmare pile of poo poo that isn't mine that I am constantly trying to clean out as housemates and my wife dump yet more poo poo into it and all I really want for Christmas, woodworking-wise, are more clamps and a workspace so I'm not trying to depend on PNW weather to let me occasionally work outside in the Winter. (oh god im sorry for this whiny E/N bullshit start to a new page)
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 17:41
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
DevNull posted:My wife was wanting to paint over it. She dropped the idea pretty quickly just from the look on my face when she said that. So after my earlier derision, I will say that I think it's important to not be *too* precious about preserving wood for its own sake. Wood is nice because it adds natural warmth and texture that you can't really get with painted trim, and if it's done particularly well the craftsmanship can serve as a kind of ornamentation to the room. if, on the other hand, your wood detail is in fairly poor repair or you want more color by painting the plaster instead then painting the trim can be a perfectly valid choice. So go with whatever you decide to do with a specific goal in mind, and be open to all options as a means to an end. If you like the wood, then figure out what it is about the wood you like (it sounds like you appreciate the warmth it brings to the room) and work to compliment it. I mean essentially all painted trim is wood that someone decided to paint for some reason or another. DevNull posted:I am not planning on super light. Something like minwax red oak or red chestnut. That picture doesn't really show it, but the color is all over the place in the different parts of the room, and different rooms. It has 100 years of different crap getting thrown on it. There are places where it is bubbling and peeling pretty bad, and I think some places with shellac as well. I think the problem is that going any lighter at all means that you really need to remove all the stain, otherwise you will have consistency problems in whatever you end up with. Looking at this picture and the amount of work you'd need to materially strip the darker pieces of wood, you might honestly be better off just removing and replacing the upper sections (if it's not too onerous) and then staining to match.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 18:16
|
|
|
Hubis posted:So after my earlier derision, I will say that I think it's important to not be *too* precious about preserving wood for its own sake. Wood is nice because it adds natural warmth and texture that you can't really get with painted trim, and if it's done particularly well the craftsmanship can serve as a kind of ornamentation to the room. if, on the other hand, your wood detail is in fairly poor repair or you want more color by painting the plaster instead then painting the trim can be a perfectly valid choice. So go with whatever you decide to do with a specific goal in mind, and be open to all options as a means to an end. If you like the wood, then figure out what it is about the wood you like (it sounds like you appreciate the warmth it brings to the room) and work to compliment it. Yeah, I got all precious about the original oak trim in my former house and spent months and months refinishing it. Ended up selling the house before I finished, and one room ended up getting the trim painted white because it was the only way to get it looking decent in time. Ended up being the nicest looking room in the house. I just got it into my head that it was *original*, and it was 7 inch, 3 part oak baseboard, and oh my god, do you have any idea how expensive that would be nowadays, and so forth and so forth. I hope the new owner took one look at the painted room and promptly painted over all my hard refinishing work in the other rooms.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
So I put handles on my drawers and it's looking and functioning better. I also re-mounted all the false fronts using a spacer and doing it from the bottom up to be perfectly consistent and level. The only problem is that I have a big gap at the top. I was thinking of putting a little strip of something along the top of the drawer front, or along the top edge of the table top, maybe something that also hides the plywood edge? Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 19:07
|
|
|
That is exactly what a strip of molding is for.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 20:37
|
|
|
Javid posted:That is exactly what a strip of molding is for. How should I fix it and where should i put it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 20:40
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:How should I fix it and where should i put it?  
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2017 20:52
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:How should I fix it and where should i put it? If you have a biscuit joiner, you can do it like this-  or you can use brads if you don't have a biscuit joiner.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 00:42
|
|
|
Brad will lend me his biscuit joiner? Sweet!
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
I'd like some help on a babby's second bed frame project that definitely isn't fine woodworking. I'd like to build a floating bed like the ones that are all the rage on pinterest these days. Here is a pretty good pic of the framing from some random redditor  The only thing thats preventing me from copying this design is that I want the bed to be very easy to disassemble - moving furniture is a giant pain in the rear end. To that end, I'll be using cross dowels for the apron joints, but I'm stuck on how to fasten the platform ribs to the apron in a way that is easy to disassemble and reassemble (not toescrewing) and aesthetically pleasing (not screwing in through the end grain) Woodgears has a drat simple rail-and-slat design, but it's for a bed supported at the corners, not the middle of the platform - the slats will pop out unless sandwiched by another 2x2.  Can anyone give me some suggestions on how to think about this? I'm short on tools, but I have access to a tool library - simpler is probably better in this case. Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Oct 31, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 15:17
|
|
|
This is only an idea and I don't know if it will actually work/be strong enough, but build split the bottom frame into multiple parts and attach them with nut-and-bolt. Attach the rails from the inside in a way so they can also be removed.
nielsm fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Oct 31, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 16:50
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:I'd like some help on a babby's second bed frame project that definitely isn't fine woodworking. There's hook and ladder hardware specifically for this. I've got a bunch laying around from a showroom booth I did years ago
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:28
|
|
|
So I just came into a huge pile of reclaimed wood from a barn being demolished.  Trying to figure out what to make with it. Any really cool ideas any of you have come across?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:44
|
|
|
Depends what it is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:49
|
|
|
Looks like pine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:50
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:I'd like some help on a babby's second bed frame project that definitely isn't fine woodworking. The frame is simple... you just need to invert the rail that the woodgears method is showing. It'd be like an inverted ledger board. The apron would just slide over the mattress framing and rest on the edges of the framing via the rail/ledger.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 18:52
|
|
|
Crazyeyes posted:So I just came into a huge pile of reclaimed wood from a barn being demolished. How old was that barn? Always need to be concerned about lead paint if it's old enough.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 19:05
|
|
|
xwing posted:The frame is simple... you just need to invert the rail that the woodgears method is showing. It'd be like an inverted ledger board. The apron would just slide over the mattress framing and rest on the edges of the framing via the rail/ledger. That's ridiculously simple. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:That's ridiculously simple. Thanks. Post your finished build please  I'm excited to see it, I want to build something similar
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 19:36
|
|
|
Build a smaller barn.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 20:42
|
|
|
So i got one of those lead paint test kit things but, because the paint itself is red and can be literally wiped up with a wet cloth, I am not sure if there is actually a reaction going on or if it's just red paint getting on the tester.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2017 22:24
|
|
|
I've got an idea, tell me if it's terrible. Picked up a free chunk of walnut gun stock blank today:  It's been outside since roughly the first Bush presidency, and meters at 12-18% moisture content as you go from skinny to fat end. 3 3/16" thick by 38" long. Not visible in the photo is that it's bowed like so:  (Exaggerated for clarity, it's about 1/4" in the middle) Obviously, I have way more than enough thickness, so run it through a jointer. I don't have one, so I am imagining screwing a couple pieces of fir 2x4 or whatever crap I have extra of to the sides and feeding it through my planer, like so:  to get to   at which point I can take the sled off and finish planing the concave side normally. I'd want to put a lot of screws in to make double extra sure the planer isn't squishing the bow out and just giving me a thinner bowed chunk, and most of the area that would get screw holes is gonna get carved out anyway. Is this a reasonable tactic for making my planer into a ghetto jointer?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 01:16
|
|
|
Javid posted:I've got an idea, tell me if it's terrible. Yeah, it's doable. You can also use a straight-edge and a table saw to get it true, then clean it up with the planer. A lot fewer passes, Id reckon.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
All I have is a poo poo jobsite saw, rather just effort planing it. If I had a real wood shop table saw I'd agree though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 02:01
|
|
|
Javid posted:All I have is a poo poo jobsite saw, rather just effort planing it. If I had a real wood shop table saw I'd agree though. get something that is flat and at least as long as the piece you want to flatten (mdf for example), place your bowed piece on top the flat thing, put some wedges under the middle so it can't be pushed down and put the whole thing through the planer. To keep the piece from sliding forward/backward I believe you can use non-skid rubber shelf material, sandpaper glued to the mdf, or put stops on the front/back to keep it from moving. I don't see a need to have to drive screws into the piece which means you'd then have to deal with the holes after. Example video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OK5CxqYmUSo
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 02:18
|
|
|
Literally 100% of the screw holes would be in places that will be either carved out or hidden so they're not an issue. Gun stocks basically wind up being this much of the original hunk of wood:  HOWEVER, that sled thing looks really loving useful so I'll probably do that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 02:36
|
|
|
Upon further inspection/testing, this stuff is almost definitely lead paint. Quite unfortunate. Can it be used for anything? I have read that as long as the paint is sealed well it is still safe.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 03:26
|
|
|
Javid posted:Literally 100% of the screw holes would be in places that will be either carved out or hidden so they're not an issue. I have a cracked stock I've thought about trying to replace, but want to work on my general woodworking skills more.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 03:37
|
|
|
Crazyeyes posted:Upon further inspection/testing, this stuff is almost definitely lead paint. Quite unfortunate. Can it be used for anything? I have read that as long as the paint is sealed well it is still safe. Is this your barn wood? Get rid of it if it's soaked in lead paint, any dust you make working it will be full of lead.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2017 09:54
|
|
|
How would y'all finish a trivet? I'm thinking of doing a fancily-patterned one as a Christmas gift, and I'd like it to hold up reasonably well to serious use -- that is, having hot pots put on it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 01:56
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:How would y'all finish a trivet? I'm thinking of doing a fancily-patterned one as a Christmas gift, and I'd like it to hold up reasonably well to serious use -- that is, having hot pots put on it. I made a couple last year, used boiled linseed oil and they've held up well. You definitely don't want any film finish, so no poly, shellac, danish oil, etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 12:04
|
|
|
Happiness Commando posted:That's ridiculously simple. Thanks. Glad I can help and it sounds like you understand what I was describing. If not, I can sketch it out. It should work well for you. Platform, framing and apron could all be separate pieces for take down this way and it'd all be gravity and minimal attachments.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 13:30
|
|
|
I want to build a computer desk with exposed box joints. I have a sketch of the design, but I want to make sure it will be strong enough. The top of the desk will just have my keyboard and mouse, plus random bits and pieces and the weight of my arms some of the time that I'm using the computer. I have four monitors, but they will all be mounted to the wall. Long story short, are four box jointed frames made of 1x4 enough to hold up the desk surface? I will use some additional box jointed "beams" made of 1x4 partway up the frames to help keep the frame from racking left and right and to support a panel that my PC will sit on. The right side of the desk will be built identically to the left side.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 15:48
|
|
|
The extra shelf doesn't look like it'll do anything for racking, a solid panel on the back will be far more effective.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 19:41
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:The extra shelf doesn't look like it'll do anything for racking, a solid panel on the back will be far more effective. This. But since you intend to put a PC there a solid plate probably isn't good for air flow and maintenance, so diagonal braces are the second choice. Best across the full diagonal, but also just covering some of the corners can work.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 20:35
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:The extra shelf doesn't look like it'll do anything for racking, a solid panel on the back will be far more effective. I guess it isn't very clear in the picture. The supports for the shelf would be additional horizontal 1x4 members box jointed into the uprights. I think that would do something about racking side to side.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 21:33
|
|
|
nielsm posted:This. But since you intend to put a PC there a solid plate probably isn't good for air flow and maintenance, so diagonal braces are the second choice. Best across the full diagonal, but also just covering some of the corners can work. Drill PBCrunch posted:I guess it isn't very clear in the picture. The supports for the shelf would be additional horizontal 1x4 members box jointed into the uprights. I think that would do something about racking side to side. If it were 4"vertical certainly but I can see that's not the plan. How fine are your box joint fingers? Matthias Wandel did glue up and destruction tests of finger joints and they were very impressive results, maybe I'm wrong.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2017 22:59
|
|
|
Time got away from me (two small kids) and now I can’t poly my end table until spring because it’s 32 degrees in my unfinished garage and at best it’s probably not going to tip above mid-forties for any appreciable amount of time.  Sorry, just venting. (I’m not sure leaving a heater on 24/7 is a good or safe idea either...)
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 14:49
|
|
|
I want to make a bench, like, the kind you sit on. I'd like the seat to be hinged so I can put storage underneath it. I'm sure there must be plans out there for stuff like this, but if you search for bench plans, you'll turn up tons of workbench plans, which is a completely different topic. I can design something myself that would probably work, but do any of y'all have plans you'd recommend?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 15:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
Feenix posted:Time got away from me (two small kids) and now I can’t poly my end table until spring because it’s 32 degrees in my unfinished garage and at best it’s probably not going to tip above mid-forties for any appreciable amount of time. 24/7 no but if you blast it for like an hour while you're in there it'll be warm *enough*
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2017 15:46
|
|