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Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
I'm finding it really difficult to find a goddamn router plane for less than 200 bucks.

The only one I've seen has been that brand new Veritas with the fence. Thanks Paul "oh, you can find 'em at antique shops" Sellers. :sigh:

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GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
The like Nielsen is $140, I have the closed thread version but I kind of wish I had the veritas instead (more blade selection, fence is better), no biggie tho, still a great tool.

Old router planes in good condition for cheap are becoming a thing of the past. I suggest just buying a good one, it's an invaluable tool.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

GEMorris posted:

The like Nielsen is $140, I have the closed thread version but I kind of wish I had the veritas instead (more blade selection, fence is better), no biggie tho, still a great tool.

Old router planes in good condition for cheap are becoming a thing of the past. I suggest just buying a good one, it's an invaluable tool.

yeah, it's holding me back from finishing a book case I promised my girlfriend... 2 years ago for her birthday.

I'm in the dog house for that right now. In my defense I did buy a house with her so she's been off my nuts but if I don't get it done soon I'll end up in trouble.


We're a bit past the Friday sales, but does anyone have a bead on decent Cyber Monday stuff?

Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Nov 26, 2017

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

I got a vintage Stanley 71 1/2 with both cutters from Patrick Leach for about $100 shipped.

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

It took a while to find one in Australia - they weren’t that common here for whatever reason. When I was visiting the uk I picked one up from eBay, boxed with all its accessories for aud$80 which seems reasonable. I’ve never seen one in an antique shop and they are even pretty rare at hand tool markets we have around here. eBay has been the best place I have found.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

The Veritas router plane is really excellent. The blade clamping system is mildly quirky, but it's otherwise just about perfect. They're out of stock a lot, though.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

ColdPie posted:

I got a vintage Stanley 71 1/2 with both cutters from Patrick Leach for about $100 shipped.

I'll sign up. I love that it gives you a spam warning.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Cannon_Fodder posted:

I'll sign up. I love that it gives you a spam warning.

Those newsletters are fun to flip through. If you want something specific, though, just throw him an email. The newsletters are just the new products he has in that month.

For router planes specifically, vintage isn't the obvious choice, unlike many other tools. Getting a brand new one isn't terribly more expensive.

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
Decided to get some practice on my new bad saw by squaring up a couple of the logs I've been hoarding for over a year. First one was some white out that had some cool grain but sadly had large cracks running throughout. Second one was much nicer, no idea what species though. Found it on a curb somewhere:







Really great spalting, and the grain is beautiful. Going to let it dry out some more before I resaw it into boards.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Posting your annual reminder that Lee Valley usually has their "second quality" planes on sale for significant discounts for Cyber Monday. It's worth getting up/staying up till midnight EST as the stock is really limited and they sell out fast.

The blemishes are usually really minor and on both planes I've bought they were almost impossible to find.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

LordOfThePants posted:

Posting your annual reminder that Lee Valley usually has their "second quality" planes on sale for significant discounts for Cyber Monday. It's worth getting up/staying up till midnight EST as the stock is really limited and they sell out fast.

The blemishes are usually really minor and on both planes I've bought they were almost impossible to find.

What kind of price are we looking at?

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

What kind of price are we looking at?

It's been a couple years since I bought any but I think I paid a little over $100 for a low angle block plane and about $175 for their #4 smoother.

It's the only way to get a discount on their planes aside from the free shipping promos they run.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
Generally 25-40% off, which is better than used prices on eBay and by far the best deal you're ever going to get from Lee Valley or any other premium plane manufacturer

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

I just dug through my emails:

$150 for a #4 Bench plane (in 2014)

$120 for a medium shoulder plane (in 2011)

Looks like I paid full price for my low angle block plane (still worth it).

Prices may be different tomorrow with inflation and whatnot but like GEMorris said it's the best deal around on planes.

The Midniter
Jul 9, 2001

I’m a novice woodworker building a table for my kitchen out of regular lumber. I’m done constructing it and started sanding it today. It’s just my luck that the one and only area of discoloration (I’m guessing from the manufacturing process?) that I couldn’t sand away is right on the tabletop, in a very visible location. It’s a blue-green sort of stain, and I can’t get rid of it. When it’s time to stain and poly the table, is this going to remain discolored and throw off the final look? Is there anything I can do to get rid of it?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



The Midniter posted:

I’m a novice woodworker building a table for my kitchen out of regular lumber. I’m done constructing it and started sanding it today. It’s just my luck that the one and only area of discoloration (I’m guessing from the manufacturing process?) that I couldn’t sand away is right on the tabletop, in a very visible location. It’s a blue-green sort of stain, and I can’t get rid of it. When it’s time to stain and poly the table, is this going to remain discolored and throw off the final look? Is there anything I can do to get rid of it?



You see that from time to time in pine lumber. I can't recall if it's mold or what, but I think it blends in with an actual stain. Clear oil coat, not so much.

Jusupov
May 24, 2007
only text

Mr. Mambold posted:

You see that from time to time in pine lumber. I can't recall if it's mold or what, but I think it blends in with an actual stain. Clear oil coat, not so much.

It's fungal.

The Midniter posted:

I’m a novice woodworker building a table for my kitchen out of regular lumber. I’m done constructing it and started sanding it today. It’s just my luck that the one and only area of discoloration (I’m guessing from the manufacturing process?) that I couldn’t sand away is right on the tabletop, in a very visible location. It’s a blue-green sort of stain, and I can’t get rid of it. When it’s time to stain and poly the table, is this going to remain discolored and throw off the final look? Is there anything I can do to get rid of it?



You could try finishing another piece of wood and see if you can still spot it. Apparently you can also use sodium hypochlorite based wood bleaches to try and get rid of it.

Jusupov fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Nov 27, 2017

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Our toddler can now reach items on our coffee table in the living room, making its surface pretty much useless for food, drinks, or electronics. Our couch has a large wire dog kennel on one side of it, but that isn't a good perch for my phone and the TV remote, because things can fall through.

So I came up with the idea to remake the dog crate in wood and use it as a sort of large end table. I have built the four sides from pine lumber with half-lap joints and have an idea of how to assemble it all using laminated 2x4s for interior support where the edges meet. I want to use plywood for the top for strength and low cost, but I want to make sure I account for the movement of the "table" sides. The bottom is going to be floating so it can be replaced in the unlikely event of an "accident" inside the crate.




All of the worst lumber went into the back piece, which will be up against the wall.

What is the best way to attach a plywood top to a table (of sorts) with solid wood aprons? As far as I can tell, the sides will be somewhat prone to wood expansion, but the plywood top really won't be.

Also, I'm listening for any tips about how to get that "golden pine" kind of look from fresh lumber. I don't want it to look all grey and weathered like wood that has been outdoor forever, but I don't like the colorless look it has now. Amber shellac?

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

Cannon_Fodder posted:

I'm finding it really difficult to find a goddamn router plane for less than 200 bucks.

The only one I've seen has been that brand new Veritas with the fence. Thanks Paul "oh, you can find 'em at antique shops" Sellers. :sigh:

This has been me lately, but with plow planes. He has blog posts from like 2014 saying he can find handfuls of them for about $70. I'd rather not shell out $240 for the Veritas one with a single cutter, but as a lefty who is also getting sick of trolling ebay that is looking like the only option.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
The veritas small plow is fantastic. I own it and the skew rabbet plane. The new combo plane didn't exist when I bought mine, I'm not sure how well it would replace both in my kit, but I dont need to find out either.

What I'm saying is buy the veritas it is good.

Or buy my old Stanley 46

Falcon2001
Oct 10, 2004

Eat your hamburgers, Apollo.
Pillbug
There was a book posted here a while ago that had a series of diagrams on human interaction and design - like how much room to put under and behind a table/etc. Does anyone remember what I'm talking about?

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc

Falcon2001 posted:

There was a book posted here a while ago that had a series of diagrams on human interaction and design - like how much room to put under and behind a table/etc. Does anyone remember what I'm talking about?

I remember this. Book looked to be super old. Now I'm curious too. poo poo.

Edit: Was it this guy?
https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/by-hand-eye-1

I'm looking through the book selection on here since Lost Art Press typically sneaks into the conversation around here.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

LordOfThePants posted:

Posting your annual reminder that Lee Valley usually has their "second quality" planes on sale for significant discounts for Cyber Monday. It's worth getting up/staying up till midnight EST as the stock is really limited and they sell out fast.

The blemishes are usually really minor and on both planes I've bought they were almost impossible to find.

The planes did sell out but there are still some other good deals if anyone is interested. Those jack and joiner planes look so nice too. Also you can buy gift cards and save 10%+ depending

Link for anyone interested: http://www.leevalley.com/us/home/cyms.aspx

Mr Executive
Aug 27, 2006
I'm going to be building an L-shaped bench for a breakfast nook. If I want the angle of the seat back to recline 5 degrees or whatever, what's the best way to go about that. Assuming the seat back is going to be plywood, should I just sew my circular/table saw to 5 degrees when I make the top/bottom cuts for the panel? Or is there some clever way of attaching an angled panel between two parallel boards (seat and a "sill" at the top of the seat back)?

mizbachevenim
Jul 13, 2002

If you fake the funk, your nose will grow

Falcon2001 posted:

There was a book posted here a while ago that had a series of diagrams on human interaction and design - like how much room to put under and behind a table/etc. Does anyone remember what I'm talking about?

This is the one I remember looking at

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Panero-Human-Dimension-Interior/dp/B00N4F5436

Human Dimension Interior Space a Source Book of Design Reference Standards

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

Falcon2001 posted:

There was a book posted here a while ago that had a series of diagrams on human interaction and design - like how much room to put under and behind a table/etc. Does anyone remember what I'm talking about?


Cannon_Fodder posted:

I remember this. Book looked to be super old. Now I'm curious too. poo poo.

Edit: Was it this guy?
https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/by-hand-eye-1

I'm looking through the book selection on here since Lost Art Press typically sneaks into the conversation around here.

Yeah, I was going to recommend By Hand & Eye and By Hound & Eye.

There's a great video on youtube that explains the basic principles:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaUP_K2sW5A

And, of course, :supaburn: workbenches! :supaburn:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBS5-AV81lg

Or if you are in the mood for something on the equal-but-opposite end of the craftsman spectrum, there's the re-issue of the Humanscale Design Manuals which (ironically much like the bound Lost Art Press books) is kind of awesome just as an artifact all its own:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KppClIR--o0

Falcon2001
Oct 10, 2004

Eat your hamburgers, Apollo.
Pillbug

mizbachevenim posted:

This is the one I remember looking at

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Panero-Human-Dimension-Interior/dp/B00N4F5436

Human Dimension Interior Space a Source Book of Design Reference Standards

This was it. Thanks!

Hubis posted:

Yeah, I was going to recommend By Hand & Eye and By Hound & Eye.

There's a great video on youtube that explains the basic principles:

And, of course, :supaburn: workbenches! :supaburn:

Or if you are in the mood for something on the equal-but-opposite end of the craftsman spectrum, there's the re-issue of the Humanscale Design Manuals which (ironically much like the bound Lost Art Press books) is kind of awesome just as an artifact all its own:

I'll check these out too.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer

anatomi posted:

I've made a couple of small projects and I've really enjoyed the process. Don't really have much in the way of tools, but I'm keeping an eye out for good deals on old equipment.

I don't have workbench, since I haven't had a space for it. However, I've been talking to my landlord and might be I can use a part of the basement as a workshop.

So I figure I'd try to build my own workbench. The basement ceiling is kinda low (I have to crane my neck a bit), so I'm trying to find a design that'll allow me to sit as much and as comfortable as possible (so I guess no apron?). Y'all know a bench that'd be somewhat suitable for a cramped and low space?

Consider a sawbench. Something like this:



You can hack it together out of roughly a 8-foot 2x12 and a 8-foot 2x8 and deck screws. Mine looks like that except I kept my aprons flush with the top down the sides, which gives me a little more working room to use the aprons as clamp surfaces.

Like this:



A lot of the examples online are beautiful and I'm sure those expert joiners assembled theirs as quickly as I did mine, but they can be made simply, abused for a few years, then tossed in the burn pile. Cost about $10 and it's light enough to lug back up to your apartment and use as an entry bench or step stool if needed.

Huxley fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Nov 27, 2017

Power Khan
Aug 20, 2011

by Fritz the Horse
Hey guys, I need some assistance from a dude with a lathe. I need a hardwood wheel, maple or beech is ok. Radius 9cm, 4cm thickness. At the center a 1cm hole for an axle. It needs to have a special profile, I'll send the you a scraper for reference. Send me a pm and tell me how much you want.

anatomi
Jan 31, 2015

Huxley posted:

Consider a sawbench. Something like this:



You can hack it together out of roughly a 8-foot 2x12 and a 8-foot 2x8 and deck screws. Mine looks like that except I kept my aprons flush with the top down the sides, which gives me a little more working room to use the aprons as clamp surfaces.

Like this:



A lot of the examples online are beautiful and I'm sure those expert joiners assembled theirs as quickly as I did mine, but they can be made simply, abused for a few years, then tossed in the burn pile. Cost about $10 and it's light enough to lug back up to your apartment and use as an entry bench or step stool if needed.
This and the roman workbench someone linked a while ago both look like pretty good solutions. Thanks ya'll.

I actually found a part of the basement where my head hardly brushes the ceiling, so I might opt for a full-scale Sellers workbench after all.

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

If they’re just I-beams above you, you could cut some notches out of the bottom of em to give yourself some more headroom

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Bonus: you can then install a sunken tub in your ceiling.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
A gravel bed for the tub is key.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I need to replace a screwed up cheapo table top with a slab of painted-to-match poplar. Is it reasonable to paint it, let it sit 3-4 days, then put a poly on it? For use with young kids and I'd rather them not be eating paint chips, but not sure to what extent that's even a concern if we painted it with semi-gloss.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
My girlfriend or her roommate forgot about some potatoes in a pantry cabinet. They rotted and hosed up the veneer. Now they're asking me how to fix it. My gut reaction is just to clean it, sand it, prime and paint and probably put a shelf liner on top of that.

I supposed they could also use wood filler or Bondo and then sand that down before painting so that it looks mostly level.

They asked about reveneering it but that seems like it would take a lot more effort than it's worth for a condo with this quality of cabinets. What would you guys do to fix this?

I suppose if you were to try and apply a veneer with a pressure sensitive adhesive you'd have to do a lot of work with filler or Bondo to get a really flat, clean surface to then apply a veneer. I'm trying to avoid doing any work on this since the place is owned by the roommate.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Cannon_Fodder posted:

I'm looking through the book selection on here since Lost Art Press typically sneaks into the conversation around here.

If you're looking for books in general, I wrote up a blog post about some of my favorite information sources, including books: https://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/05/31/woodworking-podcasts-blogs-videos-magazines-and-books/

I have read more since then. I've been meaning to do quick write-ups of each, but haven't yet. If you like Schwarz's style of woodworking, I would also recommend "The Anarchist's Toolchest." It goes in depth into every tool he thinks is required for the home furniture maker. I also liked "With the Grain" and "Mouldings in Practice," but I wouldn't consider either to be required reading.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer

MetaJew posted:

My girlfriend or her roommate forgot about some potatoes in a pantry cabinet. They rotted and hosed up the veneer. Now they're asking me how to fix it. My gut reaction is just to clean it, sand it, prime and paint and probably put a shelf liner on top of that.

I supposed they could also use wood filler or Bondo and then sand that down before painting so that it looks mostly level.

They asked about reveneering it but that seems like it would take a lot more effort than it's worth for a condo with this quality of cabinets. What would you guys do to fix this?

I suppose if you were to try and apply a veneer with a pressure sensitive adhesive you'd have to do a lot of work with filler or Bondo to get a really flat, clean surface to then apply a veneer. I'm trying to avoid doing any work on this since the place is owned by the roommate.



Clean it up, hand sand it flat as you can, then put down a piece of wood grain contact paper. Leave the rest of the roll in the drawer right above it.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

ColdPie posted:

If you're looking for books in general, I wrote up a blog post about some of my favorite information sources, including books: https://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/05/31/woodworking-podcasts-blogs-videos-magazines-and-books/

Just quoting to say that this list is the best list and should be in the op if it isn't.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

MetaJew posted:

My girlfriend or her roommate forgot about some potatoes in a pantry cabinet. They rotted and hosed up the veneer. Now they're asking me how to fix it. My gut reaction is just to clean it, sand it, prime and paint and probably put a shelf liner on top of that.

I supposed they could also use wood filler or Bondo and then sand that down before painting so that it looks mostly level.

They asked about reveneering it but that seems like it would take a lot more effort than it's worth for a condo with this quality of cabinets. What would you guys do to fix this?

I suppose if you were to try and apply a veneer with a pressure sensitive adhesive you'd have to do a lot of work with filler or Bondo to get a really flat, clean surface to then apply a veneer. I'm trying to avoid doing any work on this since the place is owned by the roommate.



I'd find a piece of cabinetry/veneered chipboard that matches and glue it on top.

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MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
The mdf/fiber board that the cabinet is made of swelled, so I imagine it would take a good amount of sanding to get flat. Not sure how the roommate would feel about gluing in something on top of it. Seems that would also look pretty shoddy with the added height/edge of the new board showing.

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