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plasmoduck posted:Good luck with the herbs Helith! It depends on whether it's determinate or indeterminate. You can pinch off the top to stop it growing taller. If you let some of the suckers grow, that will make it more bushy. If it's determinate, the only problem with doing that is that they set all of their fruit in a relatively short period of time - so get a new plant started now if you want tomatoes throughout the whole of summer (you can just break a branch or sucker off that plant and put it in a pot - tomatoes are insanely easy to clone). If it's an indeterminate then pinching it off is absolutely the best option. It will send out suckers like crazy and you'll need to pinch those off at some point too or they'll just keep growing. You could try staking it so it can grow taller, but I probably wouldn't bother. While the top leaves and stems are soft, you can train them to grow over the trellis and down the other side (this is how I grow mine). I also remove more lower leaves than you have. Your plant will set fruit now (unless we have a sudden heatwave). It's time to get a tomato fertiliser and make sure you water and fertilise it consistently. You should have tomatoes before Christmas. Oh, and if you're not getting any breeze, then give the plant a gentle shake each day to help it pollinate. Edit. Just checked back in the thread and your tomato is Mortgage Lifter, so it's an indeterminate which grows very large fruit. You're probably going to need to support the tresses and not just the main stems. BoM issued this statement yesterday. It should be a good summer for everything except peppers. quote:The tropical Pacific is approaching La Niña thresholds. If the current progression continues, and thresholds are exceeded for a sustained period, 2017–18 will be considered a La Niña event. As a result, the Bureau’s ENSO Outlook has been raised to La Niña ALERT meaning there is approximately a 70% chance—or triple the normal likelihood—of La Niña occurring. Lolie fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 21, 2017 22:53
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cakesmith handyman posted:Thanks for this link, I found the following (and quoting so I can find it again): I find it an extremely helpful site - much moreso than any local sites I've come across.
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Nov 21, 2017 23:08
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Five days later and the perpetual spinach and the lemongrass have sent up shoots already! So excited!  Spinach  Lemongrass and have a bonus pic of my Fuchsia that just loves getting the morning light and is starting to flower  Just checked and my Thyme has started to grow too! Helith fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Nov 26, 2017 |
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Nov 26, 2017 03:05
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Helith posted:Five days later and the perpetual spinach and the lemongrass have sent up shoots already! Keep an eye on your herb babies. We're in for a week of hot weather and they're extremely vulnerable to heat damage at this stage, so protect them during the hottest part of the day.
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Nov 26, 2017 21:38
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Lolie posted:Keep an eye on your herb babies. We're in for a week of hot weather and they're extremely vulnerable to heat damage at this stage, so protect them during the hottest part of the day. What should I be doing? I'm watering them in the evening and the sun is off them by about midday. Is there anything else that I can do to help with heat? Also while I'm asking questions can I ask about watering? I'm playing it by ear at the moment but I'm a bit clueless whether I'm giving my plants too much or not enough. I'm basing it mainly on soil and leaf conditions and whether it's rained, anything else to look for?
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Nov 26, 2017 22:19
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Helith posted:What should I be doing? I'm watering them in the evening and the sun is off them by about midday. Is there anything else that I can do to help with heat? I shade delicate stuff with old net curtains or move the pots behind something else. I lost quite a few young seedlings when we had that 36 degree day in October. Watering depends on the size of your pots as much as anything. Small pots will dry out super fast in summer (literally within a few hours). I bought a $4 light/moisture/ph tester off ebay last year and I find that really useful. I'm inclined to overwater things when it's hot. While I don't generally drown plants, overwatering leaches the nutrients out of the soil so it's something to avoid. This year I've mulched my containers with sugar cane mulch, which should help them retain moisture a bit but there's not really anything which helps when you get a run of 40+ days apart from shade. A lot of herbs prefer the soil to get a bit dry between waterings. That's really a "play it by ear" thing. I've lost herbs (especially sage) both by watering too much and from heat stress (you'd think sage would be extremely heat tolerant, but the domesticated version isn't). There are few occasions that we've had enough rain to properly water stuff over the last few months. I often find I still need to water the day after rain as we're rarely getting more than a sprinkle. I do find that in the middle of summer, being away from home for even a couple of days can mean I come home to a lot of dead plants, though. Lolie fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Nov 27, 2017 |
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Nov 27, 2017 00:38
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Given two distant locations that are geographically distinct from one another but which share the same hardiness zone, is it reasonable to assume they'll have roughly the same sowing/harvest dates for a particular plant? I'm wondering how much frost dates (and other factors that would impact when you sow or harvest) can vary. For example, is a very humid zone 7a in Virginia at ~200 feet above sea level similar enough to a very dry zone 7a in Colorado at ~6000 feet above sea level that you could consistently tell someone to plant something in "late March"? Or is hardiness zone the wrong mechanism to determine this?
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Nov 29, 2017 21:18
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kedo posted:Given two distant locations that are geographically distinct from one another but which share the same hardiness zone, is it reasonable to assume they'll have roughly the same sowing/harvest dates for a particular plant? Frost dates are just an average -- they can vary from year to year by up to a month in either direction. Hardiness zones are a measure of the average winter temperature, which may be quite unlinked to the average first/last frost dates, and are most useful for determining which perennials (and annuals) will survive the winter (not when to plant annuals). And yes, I would think that zone 7a in the mountains would have very different factors affecting timing of sowing than zone 7a on the coast. It's better to look at your own weather history where you are, as well as the rough long-term predictions, and have some plans in place in case of the kinds of weather extremes you might expect. For my planting timing, I use a chart from a seed supplier that's local to my city, combined with personal experience. You'd probably want to check with local sources (e.g. agricultural extensions or local nurseries/seed companies). TL;DR: It's super geographical. Look up your local frost dates, check your local weather, ask local sources when to plant what until you have a sense of this yourself.
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Nov 29, 2017 21:52
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kedo posted:Given two distant locations that are geographically distinct from one another but which share the same hardiness zone, is it reasonable to assume they'll have roughly the same sowing/harvest dates for a particular plant? That seems to be the standard the USDA shoots for; and in more recent years, they've been using more sophisticated methods compiled from actual weather station data across the country in order to increase granularity and keep the zone map up to date. On the flip side, consider the climate the seed was produced in originally. I recall reading somewhere that many seeds typically come from moist, temperate regions (like parts of Oregon) so they may perform better in an "average" garden, though I'm sure reality is more complicated. Additionally, you may have frost pockets, features like brick walls or large windows that slowly store and release or concentrate heat or light, or other micro-climate features on your own property that add more variance to the mix. The USDA zone map is a good jumping-off point; but as Lead out in cuffs said, take into account your local climate and ask around. Additionally it may come in handy to do a little bit of observation to determine generally where the frost pockets are, how water moves and is stored (both in and on the ground), and wind direction and sun angle/direction throughout the seasons on your property. If you're interested, I'd also recommend saving and planting what seeds you can year-to-year as they'll become better adapted to your unique soil and micro-climate.
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Nov 29, 2017 22:33
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Two of my cherry tomato varieties are about to flower, so I should have ripe tomatoes by Christmas. I'm not having much luck with cucumbers this year, though. I normally have no trouble growing them but I've already pulled one plant out and another is really struggling to produce. I'm picking a couple of zucchini and a handful of beans every few days, so that's some consolation. Lolie fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Nov 30, 2017 |
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Nov 30, 2017 03:45
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One of the 4 pieces of ginger I planted has sent up a shoot now. Everything but the Mint has started to grow. Let's see if I can keep the Sage going. The spring onions have gone crazy!  I'm not sure if I've sown the seeds too thickly and there are too many seedlings there. Do I need to thin them out and if so when is the best time to move them around? I'm planning on picking up another bag of potting mix this weekend and maybe some cheap overflow pots.
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Dec 1, 2017 01:11
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Helith posted:One of the 4 pieces of ginger I planted has sent up a shoot now. Everything but the Mint has started to grow. Let's see if I can keep the Sage going. Don't thin the spring onions. It's not unusual to end up with a fraction of the number which sprouted. If they all survive, you might want to put them in a larger pot but see how many you're dealing with first. I've sown multiple lots this season. Out of the first lot of about 30, two have survived long enough to transplant. I have two pots sown later which are really starting to struggle with this week's heat. I forgot to mention above that drooping leaves of an afternoon don't indicate a need for water. A lot of plants do it in the heat. If they're drooping in the early morning, though, they need more water. My sage is doing fine now - after I went and bought seeds and sowed a couple of pots because I was convinced it was going to die. Your mint should definitely be growing at the moment. Mint likes damp (unlike many other herbs) and it needs some shade if you're growing it in a container (it survives loving anything in the ground but will also take over). I've got 4 strawberry flowers at the moment. I've got them in an elevated planter this year, so it will be interesting to see whether I encounter the usual problem of something biting a big hole in them just as they're ready to pick. Lolie fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Dec 1, 2017 |
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Dec 1, 2017 04:59
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OK, thanks for all the advice you're giving Lolie, it's very much appreciated! I'll see what the attrition rate is like for the seedlings. I'm gathering that it's better to sow seeds thickly because not all will germinate or survive to grow bigger anyway. The mint is sharing a container with the spinach, maybe that is the problem? I'll water the mint side more and get some netting to cover it's half of the pot. I might also pick up some more mint seeds and if it doesn't sprout I'll try a new pot with it on it's own. Summer heat and humidity has definitely hit this week, though highest for my part of Sydney is 29 this week. We stay a little cooler than Western Sydney. Glad that your sage is going well and hope that you get to eat your strawberries this time!
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Dec 1, 2017 06:36
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Helith posted:
I've never grown mint from seed, so I can't help there. I do know that some herbs grow so slowly from seed that they're almost always grown from cuttings. Mint is highly invasive. It absolutely needs its own pot or it will crowd out everything else.
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Dec 1, 2017 21:22
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Thanks, that's a ton of valuable info. Maybe a better question is how are frost dates calculated or otherwise determined? Is it by temperature only? If the average temperature for a day in March is 23°F is there an 80% chance of frost, or whatever? For some perspective, I'm trying to figure out how I could determine a recommended planting date based on a zip code for a personal project. I know there's data about temperatures to be had from various sources, but I'm not sure how to calculate out an exact date from that. I haven't yet found any public data sets with frost dates by geographic location, that'd be optimal but I'm not sure it exists.
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Dec 1, 2017 22:25
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kedo posted:
I'm not sure how you'd ever come up with an exact date. A whole heap of farmers here had their crops wiped out by frost a few weeks ago, just as the crops were nearing harvest. It's months past the usual time for frosts. What home gardeners generally do is pay attention to the current weather. You tend to remember how things went last time conditions were similar (even though that's no guarantee their future path will be the same). Farmers would actually be a good place to start if you want frost dates by specific locations. Contact a few agricultural organisations around the area.
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Dec 2, 2017 00:02
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kedo posted:Thanks, that's a ton of valuable info. Maybe a better question is how are frost dates calculated or otherwise determined? Is it by temperature only? If the average temperature for a day in March is 23°F is there an 80% chance of frost, or whatever? My understanding is it's the average date on which the temperature drops below freezing, across as many years as have been recorded. Another way of thinking about it is that there is a 50% chance of frost by that date. When I've glanced at actual historical data, in extreme years this has been a month earlier or later than the 50% date. Are you planting seeds? Annuals or perennials? What kind of plants? We could probably give you better advice if we knew more details. For geographical frost dates, try this: http://www.plantmaps.com Maybe also try NOAA: https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/news/when-expect-your-last-spring-freeze
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Dec 2, 2017 02:42
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For my own frost dates, I usually end up at Dave's Garden's frost dates by zip code, take the 50% bet, and modify it by my own best guess given recent weather and experience growing on my property. I live a bit up slope from neighbors so I can be a little more risky when cold air moves in and having stuff in raised beds helps. This year was unusual and we didn't get a hard frost until 2 weeks after the 90% confidence date of Oct 25th.
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Dec 2, 2017 06:32
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Shame Boner posted:For my own frost dates, I usually end up at Dave's Garden's frost dates by zip code, take the 50% bet, and modify it by my own best guess given recent weather and experience growing on my property. I live a bit up slope from neighbors so I can be a little more risky when cold air moves in and having stuff in raised beds helps. This year was unusual and we didn't get a hard frost until 2 weeks after the 90% confidence date of Oct 25th. In Vancouver, we still haven't had a hard frost yet, and a lot of plants seem confused as gently caress.
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Dec 4, 2017 05:51
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Costco has some vinyl raised garden beds for sale $40 off. https://www.costco.com/.product.100153335.html Does anybody have experience with white vinyl garden beds? In moving into a new house in a couple weeks and I'm thinking about getting one to frame around a tree in my front yard and 3 to use for food crops in the backyard. I've used lumber framed garden beds at my current residence and they have lasted OK so far.
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Dec 8, 2017 17:03
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extravadanza posted:Costco has some vinyl raised garden beds for sale $40 off. I hope you don't plan on piling dirt or any material on, against, or around the root crown of the tree as this would cause a number of serious tree-murdering issues involving fungus, insects, disease, rot, and the like. Good air circulation and ability for moisture to drain away from the root crown is imperative. Edit: vvvv Ahh, that makes a lot more sense, sorry about the presumption! Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Dec 8, 2017 |
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Dec 8, 2017 18:30
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I haven't planted it yet, so the idea would be to add dirt to the raised bed, then plant tree in the new soil. Currently the front yard is empty. I was also considering wild ginger or other ground cover plants in the raised bed instead of just mulch.
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Dec 8, 2017 18:53
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extravadanza posted:Costco has some vinyl raised garden beds for sale $40 off. It's a good price for two beds of that size. I'm a bit annoyed that Costco here doesn't sell garden stuff as I'd buy their keyhole gardens. I'd be concerned about how long vinyl will last, but they're cheap enough that it doesn't really matter if they only last a few years. Expect them to get really dirty, though - you mightn't be able to get stains off the vinyl easily.
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Dec 8, 2017 22:43
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What is the absolute cheapest way to generate tall (6 foot+) trellises for pole beans and indeterminate tomatoes? The grant for our school garden gave us all of the beds we asked for (lumber for 24 raised beds of 8'x4' size) but none of the trellis material. We were originally going to use 8' lengths of those dark green steel fence T-posts, but at ~10 bucks a pop I'm not sure it can be done economically since we have to buy them ourselves now. Is there a way to support many climbing plants with just a few of these? Attaching those wire panels would be great but that's even more money.
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Dec 9, 2017 18:27
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cheese posted:What is the absolute cheapest way to generate tall (6 foot+) trellises for pole beans and indeterminate tomatoes? The grant for our school garden gave us all of the beds we asked for (lumber for 24 raised beds of 8'x4' size) but none of the trellis material. We were originally going to use 8' lengths of those dark green steel fence T-posts, but at ~10 bucks a pop I'm not sure it can be done economically since we have to buy them ourselves now. Is there a way to support many climbing plants with just a few of these? Attaching those wire panels would be great but that's even more money. I've built trellis out of 3/4" PVC frames with fence wire or string/rope stretched between them at various heights. Manilla rope seems to work best as the vines can get a grip on it.
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Dec 9, 2017 19:48
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cheese posted:What is the absolute cheapest way to generate tall (6 foot+) trellises for pole beans and indeterminate tomatoes? The grant for our school garden gave us all of the beds we asked for (lumber for 24 raised beds of 8'x4' size) but none of the trellis material. We were originally going to use 8' lengths of those dark green steel fence T-posts, but at ~10 bucks a pop I'm not sure it can be done economically since we have to buy them ourselves now. Is there a way to support many climbing plants with just a few of these? Attaching those wire panels would be great but that's even more money. I use stuff similar to this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/60-in-x-150-ft-Steel-Mesh-Roll-5901001/206261746 Make sure that the spacing is 4" in both directions between the metal mesh, so that your hand can fit between and grab tomatoes. Then cut and make cylinders with 2-3' diameters. e: oh nevermind, I didn't see your budget was so low.
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Dec 9, 2017 20:15
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cheese posted:What is the absolute cheapest way to generate tall (6 foot+) trellises for pole beans and indeterminate tomatoes? The grant for our school garden gave us all of the beds we asked for (lumber for 24 raised beds of 8'x4' size) but none of the trellis material. We were originally going to use 8' lengths of those dark green steel fence T-posts, but at ~10 bucks a pop I'm not sure it can be done economically since we have to buy them ourselves now. Is there a way to support many climbing plants with just a few of these? Attaching those wire panels would be great but that's even more money. Bamboo and twine is pretty cheap (and attractive looking). You can buy bamboo in bundles in 6" lengths, and it doesn't need to be super thick to be strong enough for beans and tomatoes. I've used bamboo that was about 0.5" wide with success for 6' high trellises. Also you can get the kids to learn how to tie ibo knots: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0efX-wjYy0 (Tip: soak the twine in water before tying, and it'll tighten up as it dries.) Edit: you could make a lot of trellis with this 100-pack of 6' poles. There are a wide range of other sized packs there, depending on how many you need and how tight you want the trellis. (e.g. you can get 250 6' x 0.5" poles for about the same price). For spacing, I've tried a 1' grid, and found that was a little too spaced out and I needed to tie off the plants as they grew. 6" spacing should be more than sufficient, which would be 22 poles (11 x 11) for each 6' x 6' trellis. You could also buy packs of 8' poles for the verticals, with 4' thinner poles for the horizontals if you want to make them fit on the 4' end of the raised beds. Lead out in cuffs fucked around with this message at 21:44 on Dec 9, 2017 |
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Dec 9, 2017 21:32
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Hmm ... yeah probably the way to do these for your beds would be with 7' or 8' x 1" vertical poles at 12" spacing, with thinner 4' horizontals spaced 6" apart. (You want the slight extra length since you'll be burying 1' of the ends in the ground.) For that, you'd need: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bond-Manufacturing-7-ft-x-5-8-in-Natural-Bamboo-Package-of-200-N715/203327290 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bond-Manufacturing-4-ft-x-3-8-in-Natural-Bamboo-Package-of-500-N408/203327287 and a bunch of twine, and your budget would be a little over $200. Then you'd be able to put in a 6' high trellis along one 8' length of each of your 24 raised beds. You could also do other things with any leftover 7' stakes, like making teepee-shaped trellises for beans/peas. Note: this will involve a lot of knot tying. Each trellis will need something like 48 knots, and you'll have 48 trellises, so 2,304 of them. That said, the ibo knot is pretty quick once you've got the hang of it, and if it's a school project you'll have the benefit of many hands.
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Dec 9, 2017 21:59
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cheese posted:What is the absolute cheapest way to generate tall (6 foot+) trellises for pole beans and indeterminate tomatoes? The grant for our school garden gave us all of the beds we asked for (lumber for 24 raised beds of 8'x4' size) but none of the trellis material. We were originally going to use 8' lengths of those dark green steel fence T-posts, but at ~10 bucks a pop I'm not sure it can be done economically since we have to buy them ourselves now. Is there a way to support many climbing plants with just a few of these? Attaching those wire panels would be great but that's even more money. All of my trellises are stuff people have thrown out. Bed frames, screen door frames, actual trellis, old fence panels.. I'd ask for donations from parents and the community. Pitch it as a recycling/up cycling project. As mentioned, twine works quite well strung between uprights. Maybe you could even encourage the students to come up with ideas and source the materials. fwiw, pole beans can be grown up bamboo or even corn - you don't need a trellis.
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Dec 11, 2017 02:59
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Lolie posted:All of my trellises are stuff people have thrown out. Bed frames, screen door frames, actual trellis, old fence panels.. Yeah that last point is a good one -- do a bean/corn companion planting, and you've got the trellis problem solved. You can go full three-sisters (corn, beans and squash) if you like too, but the squash can be a bit of a pain to get through if you're going for sweetcorn / green beans. I suspect the whole system was designed for storage corn and beans. https://www.almanac.com/content/three-sisters-corn-bean-and-squash
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Dec 11, 2017 07:21
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Thanks for the all tips and ideas. How durable is that rebar mesh screen stuff? I don't want something that will rust out in one year. Same with the bamboo I suppose - I'd like something that should be usable for a few seasons. The three sisters idea is fantastic. Would be great to give some of our beds a theme and organizational purpose beyond just growing stuff.
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Dec 12, 2017 00:54
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cheese posted:Thanks for the all tips and ideas. How durable is that rebar mesh screen stuff? I don't want something that will rust out in one year. Same with the bamboo I suppose - I'd like something that should be usable for a few seasons. In my experience bamboo lasts at least two to three seasons being left outside for the whole winter in the Pacific Northwest (though you do need to do some maintenance on the knots). If you stored it somewhere sheltered for the winter, I'd reckon it'd last a lot longer.
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Dec 12, 2017 06:31
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I built my bamboo trellises a couple of years ago, and they've held up really well even through full-sun Georgia summers. They look nice, and it's something to be proud of on top of the produce you've grown. You probably don't even need to spend any money on it. Bamboo is weedy as hell, and people might be willing to donate some from their yard, field, park, etc. It'll just grow right back.
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Dec 12, 2017 08:02
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Have a look and a laugh at our scrappy trellis setup (first time tomato growers... Go figure). The plant has long outgrown the puny little trellis that came with the planter, and my husband's zip tied some dowels to it to support each of the growing stems. I've also tied another one to the back to keep everything from falling over  So far so good, but I guess I'll have to start trimming soon...
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Dec 12, 2017 12:49
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My girlfriend is constantly asking me about her plants. I know nothing about botany. I tell her to look it up online. She doesn't. Then she asks me again about her plants. Would someone recommend a book I could give her for Xmas? She has a small herb garden with parsley, mint and basil. She has a few small fruit trees in pots: lemon, lime, orange, loquat. And she has a few random plants that have flowers. No idea what they are. She just found them at a garden supply store. I have a feeling that there isn't a single catch-all book, though. My response is typically: water it more or water it less.
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Dec 12, 2017 16:27
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Waltzing Along posted:My girlfriend is constantly asking me about her plants. I know nothing about botany. I tell her to look it up online. She doesn't. Then she asks me again about her plants. There will probably be some overwhelmingly popular general gardening guide for your region. Eg in new zealand there's the yates gardening guide which has had like 75 editions and I think every house in the country owns two and a half copies, it covers our equivalents to all of that stuff. You can maybe ask at a local gardening centre if they have a book they recommend, or just look for the top rated books on amazon for gardening eg this or this or this
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Dec 12, 2017 20:00
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Hahaha. Nice one. I did look at amazon and was overhwelmed by how much stuff was there. Hence, asking here. And we do communicate pretty well, she just thinks I know everything for some reason.
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Dec 12, 2017 21:18
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Waltzing Along posted:Hahaha. Nice one. Yeah realistically you need to read quite a few books and get your hands dirty before you start having that many answers. A local guide would be good, as would a herb garden book, a vegetable garden book, and a fruit tree book.
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Dec 13, 2017 00:03
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Question about tomatoes - We recently had a cold snap over the weekend and the winter temperature dipped into the low 50's °F for a couple of days. No rain beyond the half inch from last week, so I'm wondering how to water the container plant while some of the fruit ripens on the vine. Soil is definitely dry, but the leaves are dropping and starting to brown. I'm not sure if the shock of watering in cold temperatures will help or harm the plant. Edit: Also restarted hot pepper seedlings on their capsicum quest in preparation for transplant to containers in 2018. I planted about 40 seeds split between a couple of different soil mixes two weeks ago. They've been germinating inside while I convince my partner to let me build a hot frame or green house next to the shed. Pillow Armadillo fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Dec 13, 2017 |
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Dec 13, 2017 02:18
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This might be the wrong thread for this - right now I want to run my greenhouse exhaust fan either when the humidity is above X% or the temperature is below Y. (It will pull in air from my garage, both lowering humidity and raising the temp.) Does anybody know of a device I can plug my existing humidity controller and temp controller into that would turn on the fan in the event either of those inputs is on? Basically a very large OR gate... The greenhouse in question - still figuring out what works in the winter. The double polycarbonate is nice but it's so insulated the snow doesn't really melt off, which keeps it cold and dark.  The last of the tomats, the plant was cut a few weeks ago and they have been ripening inside. This was a success, I would say. Mozi fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Dec 17, 2017 |
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Dec 17, 2017 13:53
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