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Thanks. That's pricier than I remember but would be drat useful for some big projects coming up.
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Dec 10, 2017 20:25
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Fwiw, it doesn't do 45, only 90. It does 90 really really well though. Doing the 5 cut method on a 2' square, it's only 5-10 thou off over 10 feet. I had a little buyers remorse right after getting it, but that vanished as soon as I used it the first time. Miles better than the other track squares.
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Dec 10, 2017 23:27
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GEMorris posted:Don't expect super precision when it comes to thickness across the width (open arm drum Sanders flex, but this only matters if you are working on something where a 64th is critical), and definitely have a good dust collector. Also don't plan on using it on pieces shorter than 10" or so. Trim seems like a good use for one if you're only talking rectangular profiles. Thanks! Our house is 1860's with rough sawn and hand planed 1x5 trim with multiple coats of god knows what paint. I'll end up stripping it first, but for a cleanup pass, it should definitely help. I've also been wanting to make a batch of end grain cutting boards, which nearly destroyed my planer last time. I'm hoping to pickup a byrd shelical head cutter next year, but again for finishing the drum sander seems like the best option.
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Dec 10, 2017 23:56
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Ha! A used 16-32 Supermax just popped up for $300 used. Going to try and grab it this weekend.
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Dec 13, 2017 06:42
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I'm building a fairly simple floating dining bench. It will be ~72" long and I'm planning on using 1/2" (painted) plywood for the seat and back. 3 Questions: 1. I'm planning on glueing together two layers for the seat. If I spread the glue well and weight it down while drying, is there any need to screw the panels together as well? 2. The back will be angled slightly. Do I need angled 2x4 supports to prevent the back from sounding hollow or flexing in the middle? Would I need those angled supports if I also doubled up the plywood on the back? 3. Why kind of plywood should I get? I'm planning on painting, but I'm wondering if hardwood veneered plywood is going to be more durable than pine? Or is a birch/etc veneer more just for looks?
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Dec 13, 2017 19:39
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Mr Executive posted:I'm building a fairly simple floating dining bench. It will be ~72" long and I'm planning on using 1/2" (painted) plywood for the seat and back. 3 Questions: 1.You don't technically need screws, they won't add any strength to that glue joint, but they will aid in clamping it together. Weight may not be enough clamping pressure and the glue up could shift while weighting it down. 2. I'd need to see some sort of plan to really know what you're asking. Do you just plan on affixing the plywood back to the plywood seat? Depends what joinery you're using. 3. Some pine plywood has voids in it whereas some hardwood ply has none, this adds a bit of strength. You'd really need to look into what grades of plywood are available to you. You could also look into baltic birch plywood which has no void and way more layers making it less likely to sag. I recently went on bit of a wall cabinet binge. All cabinets are ash with cherry backs. The cabinets with glass have maple burl panels on the doors.        
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Dec 14, 2017 01:18
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Meow Meow Meow posted:1.You don't technically need screws, they won't add any strength to that glue joint, but they will aid in clamping it together. Weight may not be enough clamping pressure and the glue up could shift while weighting it down. Those are very tasteful, friend.
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Dec 14, 2017 01:51
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One day I will be able to put two pieces of wood together and not have it look like garbage.
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Dec 14, 2017 01:51
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Tres Burritos posted:One day I will be able to put two pieces of wood together and not have it look like garbage. Same. I'm real good at making strong, functional stuff but none of it is terribly attractive. On a different note, I giggle every time I see your avatar.
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Dec 14, 2017 01:55
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Tres Burritos posted:One day I will be able to put two pieces of wood together and not have it look like garbage. Only 2? Artsy
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Dec 14, 2017 01:59
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Magnus Praeda posted:Same. I'm real good at making strong, functional stuff but none of it is terribly attractive. I just watched the video that avatar is from last week. I will say that his videos give me confidence that I might actually be able to do things like hand cut joinery, but it might just not be that good for a while. I have about 4 boards of what I think is marked as maple that I picked up from an estate sale that I'm going to attempt to flatten and making into floating shelves for my kid to put toys and books onto, and to make my wife happy that there's something on that wall.
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Dec 14, 2017 06:54
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Tres Burritos posted:One day I will be able to put two pieces of wood together and not have it look like garbage.  But this was made by a witch.
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Dec 14, 2017 06:57
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That's neat, how should it lock into position? Comedy option, it doesn't, install a big spring underneath
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Dec 14, 2017 08:39
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Probably holes that were absent mindedly drilled with the grain.
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Dec 14, 2017 10:27
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Meow Meow Meow posted:1.You don't technically need screws, they won't add any strength to that glue joint, but they will aid in clamping it together. Weight may not be enough clamping pressure and the glue up could shift while weighting it down. I think I'll probably just weigh the sheets down in the middle and use a few clamps around the outsides. I'm gluing them together before cutting to final dimensions, so a tiny amount of slippage isn't going to be a big deal. For the back, I was planning on screwing it to the base on the bottom, and to a board attached to the wall at the top. Basically it would be a 2'x6' sheet of 1" (1/2" + 1/2") angeled back slightly and supported around the perimeter. I feel like I might want one vertical brace to break that up into (2) 2'x3' areas that the plywood needs to span. I ended up getting a couple sheets of 1/2" "Purebond Birch" plywood from Home Depot. I'm now worried that 2 layers won't be enough for the seat. I think it would probably be plenty strong to span across the support brackets, but I'm worried about the cantilever off the front. I want the seat to extend 4"-6" off the front of the support brackets, and I'm thinking that 1" of plywood my still sag/flex a little when sitting down.
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Dec 14, 2017 15:44
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I feel like an inch of birch isn't going to give much of a poo poo about a 6" cantilever unless you're making this bench for an obesity support group or something.
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Dec 14, 2017 16:36
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That Home Depot Birch plywood is like 50% MDF. Try to find a supplier for Baltic Birch plywood. It has no voids, thicker veneer, and way more layers.
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Dec 14, 2017 18:39
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Ummm, no. There is no plywood that is any % of MDF that isn't a multi-ply fiberboard panel made in a furniture factory for a specific purpose. Maybe that play has lovely inner plies made out of some fast growing warp prone species, but its not MDF.
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Dec 14, 2017 19:25
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Maybe it's just a terminology thing, but I can buy MDF-core walnut/birch/oak/whatever-veneer sheet goods where I'm at, I wouldn't call it plywood, but maybe that's what he means. As an example, for 1/4" it's like 1/16" veneer on each face and 1/8" mdf core.
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Dec 14, 2017 19:41
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Home Depot has all their poo poo online so you can just look it up: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbi...ond+Birch+1%2F2"  To my eyeball that looks like birch veneer and core with those two white layers being pine or something. Or it could be all birch and that one just had really light colored layers on the outside.  Baltic birch is definitely BETTER but for a bench like you're describing an inch of the cheap stuff is definitely up to the task, imo.
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Dec 14, 2017 19:59
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Is there a way to finish an edge on something like that that isn't, "cover it with real wood?" I assume you can't like, rout a cove bit through it or anything. Wife has asked for an extra-deep bookcase for her music studio (like, 18" square at the base) and I've only ever really worked in project pine.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:09
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Home Depot birch in my area is trash. I won't even use it for shop projects. It might as well be balsa wood based on its (lack) of strength.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:23
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Huxley posted:Is there a way to finish an edge on something like that that isn't, "cover it with real wood?" I assume you can't like, rout a cove bit through it or anything. Are we still talking about plywood, because I don't get the gist of what you're asking? Javid posted:Home Depot has all their poo poo online so you can just look it up: That top picture is like paper-thin veneer. That's the cheep cheep stuff. Looks like it's pre-finished, so there's some win in that, I suppose.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:28
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Huxley posted:Is there a way to finish an edge on something like that that isn't, "cover it with real wood?" I assume you can't like, rout a cove bit through it or anything.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:32
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Mr. Mambold posted:Are we still talking about plywood, because I don't get the gist of what you're asking? Sorry, yeah, is there anything I can do with a plywood end that makes it look better other than just designing the piece to hide the edges of the plywood in the first place?
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Dec 14, 2017 20:33
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Huxley posted:Sorry, yeah, is there anything I can do with a plywood end that makes it look better other than just designing the piece to hide the edges of the plywood in the first place? I suppose a small rout of both edges like a roundover or a bevel rout, or just breaking the edge with some sandpaper helps cut down splintering. I yelled at poor wormil a few months ago for making something like that for his daughter. But, assuming your wife is an adult, splinters and all that are between the two consenting of you.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:39
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This is what it looks like. I'm planning on putting a "rim" of oak around the edges. After handling the sheets together, I do think that the 1" of thickness is probably fine to cantilever 6" off the front of the brackets.
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Dec 14, 2017 20:49
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Javid posted:Home Depot has all their poo poo online so you can just look it up: Ok but nothing in any of the images you posted is MDF or fiberboard of any type? Not sure if you were contradicting me or not though.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:07
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Huxley posted:Is there a way to finish an edge on something like that that isn't, "cover it with real wood?" I assume you can't like, rout a cove bit through it or anything. Slugworth posted:Edge banding. Usually goes on with an iron. Yeah, that's exactly how that type of furniture would be finished: https://www.homedepot.com/p/13-16-in-x-25-ft-Birch-Edge-Tape-657608/202843396 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8M6xCOi6Bjo It's basically the exact same veneer as is on the face of the plywood with some heat-activated glue on the back. You put a slightly oversized piece over the edge, iron it down, then trim the bandings so they are flush with the edge. The results end up looking pretty drat convincing, and it should finish just like the rest of the piece.
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Dec 14, 2017 23:24
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My little project is all carved and I'm now experimenting with some scrap wood on how to finish it. Thanks for the tip regarding the coping saw! I wasn't even planning to capture the minute details of the wing shape originally, but with the coping saw it was possible. My plan was to spray paint the black parts first, then stain it. But from my tests it appears that the stain is stripping the spray paint off the piece, is this to be expected? I let the paint dry for maybe ~20 hours. Should I stain first, then paint instead? 
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Dec 15, 2017 00:53
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Love these, nice work. I’m stealing the design for dem pulls.
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Dec 15, 2017 07:21
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Finally finished this bedside table. Every angle in it, including the sliding dovetails, is 10 degrees. Although I like how it turned out I think that the proportions of the drawer are a scosh off, it's about a half inch taller than it should be to really look perfect. Still, I really liked the figure on the cherry.   While it is totally finishing for newbies, I cannot get enough of BLO on scraped cherry. It's almost a religious experience seeing the wood start to take on that hue and feel.
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Dec 15, 2017 22:57
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Redwood is INSANELY hard to work with, but only because it's so soft and easy to ding or split. Had two gigantic redwood boards I got for free, so I made a bookcase for someone (mostly as a way to get two 16' boards out of my life). Had a bunch of stupid problems, but it turned out pretty cool and midcentury-modernish in the end. Redwood is super pretty. That's just natural Danish Oil for finish.    12" wide boxjoints are hard to assemble, particularly in softwood.
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Dec 16, 2017 03:36
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Looking for suggestions on a table saw. We've been using a little portable contractor saw since I've been with the shop and it sucks out loud. Dude I work with finally killed it so we've gotta buy a new one anyway and I'm aiming for the moon. We had the basic Ryobi that home depot sells for like $200. Current "plan" is to buy a nicer contractor saw like a dewalt for more like $400 and build a stand for it + some tables to use as in and out feed that will be at the same height. I want to price out our materials for this and see if $nicersaw + $tablewood = an actual wood shop table saw. My dream build for these tables would cost around $200 or so to make happen. So, can I get a real wood shop table saw for $600ish?
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Dec 17, 2017 10:24
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Javid posted:Looking for suggestions on a table saw. We've been using a little portable contractor saw since I've been with the shop and it sucks out loud. Dude I work with finally killed it so we've gotta buy a new one anyway and I'm aiming for the moon. Used if you have patience.
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Dec 17, 2017 16:42
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The bottom end grizzly's worth owning are around $750+shipping. Otherwise look for used. Table saw are like cars when it comes to mods, never try to build one you can buy.
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Dec 17, 2017 16:54
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Test
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Dec 17, 2017 20:36
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Javid posted:So, can I get a real wood shop table saw for $600ish? https://m.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-13-Amp-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Table-Saw/50081568 I have this one, I've been very happy with it
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Dec 18, 2017 00:33
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What's the easiest and cheapest way to make temporary kitchen counters? I'm outfitting a kitchen soon and while I will at some point do it properly that requires more prep, time, and money than is immediately available, but by god I'd like to stop eating mcdonalds etc and subway for every meal as I have been for the last 6 months. I have the usual array of hand tools both powered and unpowered, short a circular saw but I could pick one of those up, and I have some basic woodworking skill from building some simple furniture from 2x4s and MDF, so I know enough to cut a straight-ish line with a jigsaw and make things square without cutting my hand off. I'm also open to an answer like "buy some trestle tables" or "ikea does these tables super cheap that'll do the job" if doing it myself isn't the most effective way. I'm in the UK so any specific things would have to be available there. They'll need to support a basic-rear end sink (which will need a cut-out to sit in), some form of cheap oven (which might need some basic support structure), and probably a counter-top induction hob, plus some space for prep, and not poison my food if I put it down. They'd need to last a few months I suspect, and ideally I'd be able to shift them around and adjust lengths as I plan out the final kitchen, but that's secondary to being able to prepare my own food and that of a doggo. I have the electrical and plumbing sorted already. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Dec 18, 2017 |
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Dec 18, 2017 09:55
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Look at Alex French guy YouTube. He seems to have made due in a similar circumstance. E: circa this video? https://youtu.be/IjOXa3s4so4 Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Dec 18, 2017 |
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Dec 18, 2017 10:03
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