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There are also edge guides for handheld routers, which can be convenient when you need to plunge-cut a groove into a rail, for example. I would not advise trying to do a plunge cut with a table router. But yeah, a table router is just a handheld router mounted to a table. One nice thing about table routers is that you can turn them into ad-hoc jointers by setting up a fence with one side offset from the other (use some washers on the fence mount) and putting a straight bit in the router.
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Jan 12, 2018 17:08
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Sounds like handheld is what I want then; I'm going to be twiddling with a bunch of house stuff like windowsills, counters, and other things of that size and nature, so nothing that can't be clamped to a workbench or three. Thanks!
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Jan 12, 2018 17:12
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GEMorris posted:[T]he most functionality with the most safety, demanding the least space, is the combination of a bandsaw and a track saw. This is the combo I use. 10/10, can attest. I sometimes miss having a table saw, but since going without, I just learned to adapt and can make any cuts I need with those two.
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Jan 12, 2018 20:22
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Anyone seen or have ideas for reusing the fence guide rails from a table saw? I bought a table saw that was missing the fence, miter gauge and throat plate. I could only get a new fence by buying the entire assembly, so now I have an extra set of rails. I feel like there must be some use for them and I could transfer the fence back and forth.
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Jan 12, 2018 21:13
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I have a cheapo Craftsman router & table combo I got on clearance when the local OSH was moving and clearing out their stock. Basically a "bench top" router table with a removable handheld router. The table is cheaply made, the fence is not super accurate, but it works and is totally useable for small projects. The fence is in two pieces so you can do the offset stuff TooMuchAbstraction mentioned, by design. Basically this, although mine isn't identical: https://www.searsoutlet.com/Craftsm...158&mode=seeAll e. On Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Router-Table-Combo/dp/B00HJJ4QEQ e. Specifically I have a 9.5 Amp 1-3/4 HP fixed base router model 320.17541 and the table is Model No. 320.28160. Got them together for about ... I think it was $80 on sale? Not top quality tools by any stretch, but totally reasonable for hobby and light duty work and I'd be very comfortable doing something like window frames with them. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 21:15
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You could use them on a router table I guess. Though their fence requirements can be a little different.
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Jan 12, 2018 21:16
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keep it down up there! posted:You could use them on a router table I guess. Though their fence requirements can be a little different. Yeah, I wouldn't be able to do any operations that need the fence right over the bit. The fence has a steel tube down the center. I was thinking if I make a sled for a circular saw maybe a small panel saw?
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Jan 12, 2018 21:31
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Related to a couple of pages ago about whether or not to table saw, should I take it to heart for my upcoming projects too? I'm going to be dumping a bunch of effort into some built-in furniture including a kitchen (which will doubtless take a few goes to get right), but after that it's going to peter out to little to nothing. I don't mind an investment in decent hardware because it'll still cost far less than the buying and the fitting (the time is an investment in the skill to me), but I don't hold any pretentions that I'm going to become a full time woodist. Should I be dropping the idea of a table saw and be thinking about a track saw instead, even if I'm working with a bunch of ply sheets?
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Jan 12, 2018 22:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:full time woodist. You'd want to see a doctor about that anyway.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:10
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That Works posted:You'd want to see a doctor about that anyway. If your dowel lasts for longer than 4 hours..
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Jan 12, 2018 22:16
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For sheet work, I expect it'd be a lot easier to use a track saw than a table saw anyway. The table saw pretty much requires you to have a sled, and then you still have to push the sheet through the saw. When cutting really big materials, it makes more sense to move the saw through the sheet instead. Just set up a couple of sawhorses, make sure that both sides of the cut are supported, clamp the track down, and let 'er rip.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:21
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Yeah if you want to break down an 8 foot sheet on a table saw you'll need 8 foot+ of space either end of the saw. With a track saw you just work on top of the sheet.
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Jan 12, 2018 22:47
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For sheet work, I expect it'd be a lot easier to use a track saw than a table saw anyway. The table saw pretty much requires you to have a sled, and then you still have to push the sheet through the saw. When cutting really big materials, it makes more sense to move the saw through the sheet instead. Just set up a couple of sawhorses, make sure that both sides of the cut are supported, clamp the track down, and let 'er rip. Sorry this is wrong info from someone who apparently never owned or used a decent table saw. If you were just ripping sheet goods, I'd have no quibble with the track saw lovers. The fact that a kitchen can typically required a few hundred linear feet of ripped facing material, preferably hardwood cries out for a table saw. And that's going to need a long enough runway that ripping sheet goods goes along with it. You can get very good saws used. Or you may have a lumber yard near that you can get S4S stile material of the widths you require, so a track saw would be doable. You'll pay a lot more for the S4S hardwood, btw. If you've got no more use for the table saw, flip it.
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Jan 13, 2018 00:45
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A track saw is going to do a much better job of letting you safely break down sheet goods, this goes double for anyone inexperienced. I agree that track saws aren't ideal for ripping lots of thin strips of hardwood ( I use a combo of bandsaw, planer, and hand plane for that) but for someone just remodeling a kitchen with no intent to stay in the hobby, buying s4s (if they even use a design that needs it, 32mm euro style cabinets with edge banding are a thing) and ripping them with the track saw by using an extra support board under the track that is the same thickness as the piece being cut. They can also sell the track saw after the jobs are all done, they hold their value quite well. A new woodworker breaking down 4x8 sheets on a contractor saw is just asking for an accident imo.
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Jan 13, 2018 01:50
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Crib's done!  The occupant is very happy with it and it's going in our regular catalog soon.
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Jan 13, 2018 05:39
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That makes me unreasonably happy. e: the bigass window blinds and multiple outlets is extra hilarious.
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Jan 13, 2018 05:49
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Two power points with two sockets is excessive?
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Jan 13, 2018 06:59
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You mean the ones on the left? One is power, one is a network port.
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Jan 13, 2018 07:39
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Well, it's because I'm imagining what might be plugged in there on account of the fetishcrib.
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Jan 13, 2018 09:15
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GEMorris posted:A track saw is going to do a much better job of letting you safely break down sheet goods, this goes double for anyone inexperienced. Will the track saw help you make perfectly parallel cuts or perfectly square cuts? That said, I saw a neat trick for breaking down large sheet goods with circular saw/track saw the other day on Youtube. Basically just use a sheet of cheap insulation material to separate the sheet goods from the floor. Gives full support for the material, very little extra resistance in cutting, and is reusable.
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Jan 13, 2018 09:33
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Hypnolobster posted:Well, it's because I'm imagining what might be plugged in there on account of the fetishcrib. If there's gonna be a fucksaw plugged in anywhere it'll be across the room next to the straight up bondage equipment, I assume.
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Jan 13, 2018 10:30
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GEMorris posted:A track saw is going to do a much better job of letting you safely break down sheet goods, this goes double for anyone inexperienced. Being a euro I will be doing euro style cabinets, yeah, not the US-style faced ones. That said! There are other bits that are occurring to me now that I'll wind up doing before it's all over. The complete list is: - Euro-style kitchen, lots of birch ply and cutting to length a few pre-made worktops. - (optional) Kitchen table, made from the original floorboards of the house. (I have a couple hundred sqm of 1908 floorboard lying around btw) - Front cover for the bath, something T&G style I guess, simple, in any case. - A houseworth of windowsills, some of which could be cut from premade stuff but will probably start from planed wood because some will need large rebates to fit under the window opening. - Several rooms worth of interior slatted shutters. - A simple bed with slatted headboard (I'd buy one but they're hard to find in 7x7ft to match the mattress) - A couple rooms of store-bought T&G engineered flooring that'll need cutting to length. I think that's it. Once that stuff's done I'm sure I'll have small jobs here and there but nothing on this scale.
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Jan 13, 2018 10:33
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That is plenty of work to justify getting both, especially if you are going to sell them off after (you won't, there's always another project).
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Jan 13, 2018 13:54
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nielsm posted:Will the track saw help you make perfectly parallel cuts or perfectly square cuts? https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square/ https://precisiondogs.us/products/precision-parallel-guides-v11 Lots of companies are making sqaures and parallel guides. I think those are arguably the best of them. Definitely not cheap, but for the tracksaw route, its definitely a great setup for working with sheet goods. Also yep, a piece of rigid foam is awesome for cutting on.
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Jan 13, 2018 15:46
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The flooring would benefit from a miter saw. It's the ideal tool for doing crosscuts and would speed up that work substantially. You'll probably need to rip some of the floorboards down though to fill in the last bits of each room.
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Jan 13, 2018 15:49
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I'm still not used to the word "rip" in the context of cutting wood, even though I know what it means. Thanks for the feedback, I'll likely be back again when I have designs for the projects because I have next to no idea what I'm doing.
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Jan 13, 2018 15:55
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ilkhan posted:That is plenty of work to justify getting both, especially if you are going to sell them off after (you won't, there's always another project). Agreed, that volume of work justifies a track saw, probably a planer, miter saw, and then either a bandsaw or a table saw.
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Jan 13, 2018 16:42
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Jaded Burnout posted:Being a euro I will be doing euro style cabinets, yeah, not the US-style faced ones. That said! There are other bits that are occurring to me now that I'll wind up doing before it's all over. The complete list is: Idk if you've priced what an edgebander runs, unless there's some insanely great tool coming out of China, but I doubt you want to go there. So you can do flush face style cabinets you'll basically band with hardwood. You'll still need to rip that, unless you can buy it ready dimensioned. You'll want a 35mm setup, which a drill press and jig will suffice. Jigs are your friend here. I actually have a 3/8" collet sleeve for my plunge router that with a little grinding of the 5mm (I think) shaft, I was able to fit a 35mm hole bit in. Great for on the job adjustments! Looks like you're gonna have some fun and learn a few things, regardless.
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Jan 13, 2018 16:59
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You can do edge banding with glue backed strips of veneer and an iron. I am assuming this is what any DIYer would be doing.
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Jan 13, 2018 17:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:Idk if you've priced what an edgebander runs, unless there's some insanely great tool coming out of China, but I doubt you want to go there. So you can do flush face style cabinets you'll basically band with hardwood. You'll still need to rip that, unless you can buy it ready dimensioned. Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I'll need to do this. I'm looking to use birch ply which I actually quite like the cross section of, but in any case I'll be painting it. Unless there's a technical reason to do it, I have no aesthetic need.  Mr. Mambold posted:You'll want a 35mm setup, which a drill press and jig will suffice. Jigs are your friend here. I understand all of the words here but none of the sentences. Mr. Mambold posted:Looks like you're gonna have some fun and learn a few things, regardless. That's the hope! Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Jan 13, 2018 |
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Jan 13, 2018 17:13
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Anyone have or use one a cordless air nailer? I'm looking at https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.one-18v-airstrike-brad-nailer-kit.1000775409.html or https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.hyperdrive-18-volt-18-gauge-2-18-inch-brushless-brad-nailer.1000828866.html I haven't read the reviews, but will, be but was wondering if anyone has some first hand experience? Won't be doing anything heavy duty with it, the first task I will be using it for is securing cock beading to some drawers. I like the idea of not having to wait for a compressor to fill it, especially since I'll only be doing a couple nails at a time.
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Jan 13, 2018 17:20
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GEMorris posted:You can do edge banding with glue backed strips of veneer and an iron. I am assuming this is what any DIYer would be doing. You ever actually build an entire kitchen in place, friend? With a lovely iron and lovely glue backed veneer? I recommend you try it. Jaded Burnout posted:Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I'll need to do this. I'm looking to use birch ply which I actually quite like the cross section of, but in any case I'll be painting it. Unless there's a technical reason to do it, I have no aesthetic need. That's probably your best avenue. Get the best quality birch plywood- used to be Baltic birch, sand edges diligently- cash in!
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Jan 13, 2018 17:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:You ever actually build an entire kitchen in place, friend? With a lovely iron and lovely glue backed veneer? I recommend you try it. I've done cabinets with manual edge banding, but no not entire kitchens, you're going to do it as you prepare the panels, not after the cabinets are installed. Jaded Burnout posted:Correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think I'll need to do this. I'm looking to use birch ply which I actually quite like the cross section of, but in any case I'll be painting it. Unless there's a technical reason to do it, I have no aesthetic need. If this is your general aesthetic direction, which I do appreciate, then a track saw is definitely where you should start. Getting one of the track squares like TSO makes (linked by a previous poster) will make your life easier. Meow Meow Meow posted:Anyone have or use one a cordless air nailer? I'm looking at https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.one-18v-airstrike-brad-nailer-kit.1000775409.html or https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.hyperdrive-18-volt-18-gauge-2-18-inch-brushless-brad-nailer.1000828866.html I do not have first hand experience but I did read a ton of reviews before Christmas as I almost bought one. Whatever you do, avoid the Milwaukee nailers as it sounds like they just completely phoned it in. Several reviewers who were Milwaukee loyalists said they returned it, got the Ryobi, and were happy with it. Do you already use either of those tool systems? Battery compatibility is a nice thing to have.
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Jan 13, 2018 20:08
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Mr. Mambold posted:You ever actually build an entire kitchen in place, friend? With a lovely iron and lovely glue backed veneer? I recommend you try it. I've done about 60 feet of it and it isn't that much fun
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Jan 13, 2018 20:16
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I have the Ryobi Brad nailer and it is awesome. The battery lasts longer than I've ever needed it and the nailing is great with easy adjustment. I'm putting baseboards in the kitchen right now with it. I've mostly nailed trim and baseboards but it worked fine on plywood and hardwood, too. I already have Ryobi so it was easy to add the nailer. I think it has an accelerometer because the lights turn on when I pick it up. Also, it has soft material on the edges so I didn't need to put felt on it.
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Jan 13, 2018 21:30
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I've done about 60 feet of it and it isn't that much fun Agreed. It's easy to burn the veneer with an iron, there's so many ways to go wrong. Building them modularly, finishing each piece separately like GE mentioned, then assembling would save so much grief. There's also these little razor bevels you can use to ease the edges.
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Jan 13, 2018 23:15
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Would I be insane to add a staircase to my list? I've just discovered some new financial delays and the £3-4k staircase by a local carpenter suddenly looks like a luxury I can't afford. I'm afeared of doing it wrong and killing myself.
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Jan 14, 2018 02:38
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Anybody need some mortises? I can make mortises in like 30 seconds, because I got this thing functioning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpOBEJLhnNA Just kidding. Now that it works, I'm going to finish off the little details and then take it apart, scrap everything that's made of wood and build version 2. More aluminum, more stiff, more shiny, more adjustable (more expensive). Also now I have to start thinking about dust collection.
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Jan 14, 2018 03:17
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Javid posted:Crib's done! I legit love those legs as bedpost knobs. Clever.
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Jan 14, 2018 03:56
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Huxley posted:I legit love those legs as bedpost knobs. Clever. Bedpost knobs? They're hitching points.
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Jan 14, 2018 04:39
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