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One Legged Ninja posted:It's missing the open pores of oak, though. Pine, hemlock, fir, and a lot of the other softwoods can have very pink heartwood, and the heart would be the most pungent. I'd put money on it being pine or a close relative. Same. Plus oak has a decidedly oak aroma when milled.
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Jan 19, 2018 21:21
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I must know now.
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Jan 19, 2018 21:53
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Obligatory meme It's been cold as hell recently so I have nothing of use to post. I did get a Shapeoko CNC router at xmas though. Im hoping to have some cool "woodworking" projects soon. I did carve out the FFXI logo with a V Carve bit though. Turned out well, but took about 6 hours with base settings. Im sure that could be improved once I learn feeds and speeds though. 
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Jan 19, 2018 22:28
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not your fault, because I guess it's the same for the original you're working from, but all I can see is an outline of Virginia. 
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Jan 19, 2018 23:19
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Tres Burritos posted:It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho. Best bet would be to mail some dust and shavings to a few goons in this thread and we can debate what it smells like.
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Jan 20, 2018 01:26
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 It is alive. I sat my 200 lb rear end on it and tried to get it to rack to any meaningful degree and it didn't. I think it's strong enough. Total cost to me: $13 and an hour and a half or so of time.
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Jan 20, 2018 01:47
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On the subject of wood smells, if you make several cuts and it doesn't smell like something between Pine-Sol and a really dank IPA beer, it probably isn't pine. Screws into endgrain! 
PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jan 20, 2018 |
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Jan 20, 2018 05:25
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Tres Burritos posted:It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho. looks like douglas fir to me
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Jan 20, 2018 20:02
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My dad and I are talking about going halves on a mortiser. Any specific ones to avoid? The Rikon with the dual axis table looks really nice, but some reviews say to avoid it due to QC.
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Jan 24, 2018 01:48
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I have the General International 5/8" mortiser with tilting head and don't have any real complaints. A dual axis table like that would be sweet, but I make due. One thing I recommend is to get quality chisels and make sure to tune them up. The Japanese ones at Lee Valley are great, expensive, but I only make 1/4" and 3/8" mortises so I only need the two. Polish the outsides as well as the insides and sharpen the drill bit, there are a few articles on Fine Woodworking on how to tune the bit and mortiser which I recommend reading. Use the chisels that come with the mortiser as practice chisels, you'll probably burn them or wreck them while you're learning, I burned one badly and bent another while I was learning how to use it.
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Jan 24, 2018 02:44
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I have almost zero woodworking experience, but I'm seriously thinking of building a workbench for my garage. I already have a metal workbench with a bamboo top but it's small, and with the number of large tools I want to buy, the surface area on that workbench isn't enough. My garage is small and has little wall area and even less that doesn't have something taken up by something else, so I had this bright idea that involves a workbench that folds up against the wall when not in use, or maybe swings out. I'd like to have a plywood shelf underneath the workbench to put things, so another option may be to build a long workbench and then just have a hinge that swings up like at a bar so that if I need to use the door leading outside, I can swing that part up. I'd want to know how feasible you goons think any of these ideas might be, or if you think I'm getting a little too ambitious. I'd like to also say that we have two large metal shelves, and my wife uses one of them exclusively for her party-planning stuff and seasonal decorations so moving that isn't an option at this time. I have no idea how to accomplish a stable workbench that isn't in the way at this point. I have no workshop, and I don't have space for an external storage building in my yard. Am I hosed?
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Jan 26, 2018 17:28
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What are you looking to do on your work bench?
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Jan 26, 2018 17:43
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Can you mount storage to the ceiling (hyloft type suspended wire platform) so that you can move the existing shelves?
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Jan 26, 2018 18:00
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Phone posted:What are you looking to do on your work bench? More woodworking. I want to have a miter saw, a more stable vise (I have a clamp one now), a table saw and a few other tools. I have no surface right now where I could put all those things, which brings me to another question: could I even build a workbench with just a circular saw and some sawhorses? Also, I have a gun vise I’d like to mount, so some of the workbench would be dedicated to firearms maintenance. GEMorris posted:Can you mount storage to the ceiling (hyloft type suspended wire platform) so that you can move the existing shelves? I have one of those already, which I just put up last weekend as a matter of fact. They aren’t very large, but it’s nice to be able to use a power drill to raise and lower it, even though it doesn’t come all the way to the floor. My ceiling joists run left and right, though, which limits my ceiling are for additional lifts. I moved my other shelf into the storage closet. I’d move it back out if I thought I could fit a work bench in there, and maybe I could, but a lot that space is occupied by a water heater and piping, plus our communications box.
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Jan 26, 2018 18:12
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If you search through my posts and ignore all of the bad ones (well most of them), you can see pictures of the knockdown Nicholson that GEMorris helped me with. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/18/materials-tools-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/ It will totally satisfy your space requirement needs; however, it's a bench for working on wood and not storing things. There are a few goons in here who have also built the bench and have been happy with it.
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Jan 26, 2018 18:21
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Phone posted:If you search through my posts and ignore all of the bad ones (well most of them), you can see pictures of the knockdown Nicholson that GEMorris helped me with. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2014/09/18/materials-tools-for-the-knockdown-nicholson-workbench/ It's like you knew I was downstairs working on things and was frustrated with not having an efficient space to actually use to do things. That link is super useful, thanks!
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Jan 26, 2018 22:40
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I'll just add that it's totally feasible to have a fold-away or hinging workbench. However, you are always fighting between the desirability of a very stable platform (heavy, tightly held together, doesn't easily warp or twist so the top remains perfectly flat and level) and the fact that the lighter and thinner everything is, the easier it is to make it neatly fold away. You could sketch up a design of what you're imagining doing and the goons here can critique it for you (suggest different joins or support schemes or whatever) as needed.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:45
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There's a video here of a garage with every type of table: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55006 I think the one under the prosche is best for you.
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Jan 26, 2018 22:58
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You could look at the Moravian style bench if you want something knockdown and portable.
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Jan 26, 2018 23:29
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Sounds like what he's after is something very stowable rather than portable. And as already mentioned because stowable usually means hinged in some way they don't tend to be as massive or rigid as desired for a woodworking bench for using hand tools on. If I wanted to do woodworking in a space where I always had to stow everything away I would probably just go deep on the festool system along with a lunch box planer, although face planning to joint the first side of a board is always a struggle without a heavy enough bench. The Roman benches Schwarz covers in his upcoming book might be a good answer for folks in this type of situation.
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Jan 26, 2018 23:36
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I think the Moravian would fit the stowable category very well. It would store just as flat as a folding bench and no one part is excessively heavy. Plus it goes together and comes apart quickly.
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Jan 26, 2018 23:57
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Don't mind me, posting aluminum in the woodworking megathread. I got a bunch done on my ridiculous slot mortiser. The aluminum version of the z axis gantry is together, and I finally got 2 pieces of ATP-5 jig plate (really flat aluminum plate) for the x and y.  
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Jan 27, 2018 01:32
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Atticus_1354 posted:I think the Moravian would fit the stowable category very well. It would store just as flat as a folding bench and no one part is excessively heavy. Plus it goes together and comes apart quickly. By stowable I mean like folds down rather than disassembles, or is attached to a hinge on the wall. Disassembling a Moravian bench just gives you several large assemblies you then have to store somewhere, the advantage of something hinged to the wall is that is gets out of the way without you having to store the parts anywhere. The process of having to assemble and disassemble every time you want to work on something quickly becomes a barrier to anything but daylong projects. I'm not saying the Moravian bench is bad, just that portable/disassemble-able is a different, softer set of constraints than something that needs to be rapidly available and then out of the way just as rapidly.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:21
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I need to replace the exterior trim on my front door; the current stuff is in pretty bad shape. It occurred to me that I could probably make my own with a molding router bit. Is it really just a matter of getting a bit I like, slapping it in the router table, and running some boards past it? Seems too easy somehow.
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Jan 27, 2018 04:55
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Pretty much, although I think it gets tedious pushing long boards through, which is why they have power feeders. Then if things are too slow, upgrade your router table to a full size shaper. 
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Jan 27, 2018 05:00
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Even the baby 1hp shaper I got kicks all sorts of rear end.
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Jan 27, 2018 15:25
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Leperflesh posted:I'll just add that it's totally feasible to have a fold-away or hinging workbench. However, you are always fighting between the desirability of a very stable platform (heavy, tightly held together, doesn't easily warp or twist so the top remains perfectly flat and level) and the fact that the lighter and thinner everything is, the easier it is to make it neatly fold away. I may need to sketch something for sure. My garage floor is sloped also, making the project more complicated in my estimation. As far as joins, I think dovetail joints might be nice for th corners. GEMorris posted:Sounds like what he's after is something very stowable rather than portable. And as already mentioned because stowable usually means hinged in some way they don't tend to be as massive or rigid as desired for a woodworking bench for using hand tools on. This for sure. And yes I’m most worried about the stability and sturdiness of something like that. But even though I want something stowable, I wouldn’t balk at something that can be broken down.
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Jan 27, 2018 15:41
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life is killing me posted:This for sure. And yes I’m most worried about the stability and sturdiness of something like that. But even though I want something stowable, I wouldn’t balk at something that can be broken down. In that case a Moravian bench or the knockdown Nicholson are options, I'd still consider if you see yourself doing hand tool centric woodworking or not. If your plans are to do a bunch of projects with sheet goods then I'd absolutely be going down the festool path. But if it's hardwoods and hand tools then you're gonna need a sturdy bench. I have a preference for the Nicholson because it doesn't have a tool tray and this lends itself to using holdfasts on the back half of the bench which allows you to use does feet and not have to install a tail vise. Otoh, the Moravian bench looks better and looks like it breaks down a slight bit faster. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Jan 27, 2018 |
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Jan 27, 2018 16:07
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The Moravian could be made without a tool tray and with a solid section in back. The top is assembled as two halves for ease of assembly so you could realistically make each however you want or try with a tool tray and eventually change to a solid top if that works better for you. Really there are no hard a fast rules and you should adjust the dimensions and features to fit you and your work.
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Jan 27, 2018 16:17
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I need to replace the exterior trim on my front door; the current stuff is in pretty bad shape. It occurred to me that I could probably make my own with a molding router bit. Is it really just a matter of getting a bit I like, slapping it in the router table, and running some boards past it? Seems too easy somehow. A lot of that is flat mold or maybe you've got what's called brick mold? It's like 1 1/4" and got a kind of fancy fillet rout on it. But it's your house you can put whatever you think looks good on it
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Jan 27, 2018 17:09
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Mr. Mambold posted:A lot of that is flat mold or maybe you've got what's called brick mold? It's like 1 1/4" and got a kind of fancy fillet rout on it. But it's your house you can put whatever you think looks good on it Yeah, if it's exterior moulding you are replacing cause it's rotted there's a good chance it will rot again unless you do more to mitigate water or you use PVC moulding. You're not going to save any money getting a special bit and routing your own on a project this small.
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Jan 27, 2018 17:25
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GEMorris posted:In that case a Moravian bench or the knockdown Nicholson are options, I'd still consider if you see yourself doing hand tool centric woodworking or not. If your plans are to do a bunch of projects with sheet goods then I'd absolutely be going down the festool path. But if it's hardwoods and hand tools then you're gonna need a sturdy bench. What would be the skill level required for something like the Nicholson? I have almost zero experience in woodworking, but I feel like I should try my hand at it because if I don’t, I’ll never know if I could have done it or not, and I won’t gain any experience in woodworking. OTOH I have only a circular saw as far as tools that cut wood, but I’m seeing that I can get some tools fairly cheap. Is there a huge quality difference between a $60 miter saw for instance, and a $159 one?
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Jan 27, 2018 17:25
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life is killing me posted:What would be the skill level required for something like the Nicholson? I have almost zero experience in woodworking, but I feel like I should try my hand at it because if I don’t, I’ll never know if I could have done it or not, and I won’t gain any experience in woodworking. Relevant blog post Schwarz goes over the hardware needed, and then further down the list he mentions the tools needed to make the Nicholson. The plans and instructions are in the Nov 2015 issue of Popular Woodworking, but you can find diagrams on the internet albeit without the detailed instructions. As for if anyone can do it or not, I'm a big believer that woodworking is just a matter of effort and time dedicated. The aesthetic challenges are maybe outside of this (but I know this can be trained as well). No one is a "natural" and getting good is a lot of work. That said, it's a hobby that can result in useful objects that you will probably appreciate for a long time.
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Jan 27, 2018 18:03
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GEMorris posted:Yeah, if it's exterior moulding you are replacing cause it's rotted there's a good chance it will rot again unless you do more to mitigate water or you use PVC moulding. You're not going to save any money getting a special bit and routing your own on a project this small. It's not so much about saving money, it's about accumulating new toys!  But yeah, fair point. The easy way to accomplish this specific job is to just buy new trim; the bit only makes sense if I think I'd re-use it.
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Jan 27, 2018 18:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's not so much about saving money, it's about accumulating new toys! Matthias Wandel has a video and article on making molding with multiple more common router bits rather than buying fancier bits. https://woodgears.ca/router_lift/molding.html
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Jan 27, 2018 19:02
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I took advantage of some nice weather (42 degrees in the shop!) and spent a few hours making a mallet: I build the head using some 8/4 red oak scrap, into which I cut a dado to be centered once I face-glued on some 4/4 white oak scrap. The end grain looks kind of hilarious, but it's functional. The handle's tenon is square and back-wedged diagonally. The whole thing weighs about 1 3/4 lbs. My first wooden mallet, till now I've been using a 2 lb plastic deadblow mallet. I used it to make the first few chops of a mortise (bottom-left of the image) and it was nice not having to shake those beads around like I did in the deadblow. Looking forward to using it more. My toolchest is running out of space, though... life is killing me posted:What would be the skill level required for something like the Nicholson? I have almost zero experience in woodworking, but I feel like I should try my hand at it because if I don’t, I’ll never know if I could have done it or not, and I won’t gain any experience in woodworking. I built the knockdown Nicholson for my workbench. In my opinion, it would be a challenging but doable "first" project. There's a lot that goes into learning how to use your tools, and it might be wise to start with a smaller and less permanent project. Once you get a feel for how you like to work wood, and some confidence in using your tools, you could move on to building a real bench. If you want to set up a temporary bench for small projects while you are figuring out your style and assembling tools, honestly a sheet of 3/4 plywood and some F-clamps do a "good enough" job. I built my first few projects like that. Or just do it right from the start and build a real bench. Whatever works for you. Just be sure to practice every new technique on some scrap first. You figure out a whole lot the first time you do a new technique, then you can avoid screwups on the real project parts.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:17
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ColdPie posted:I took advantage of some nice weather (42 degrees in the shop!) and spent a few hours making a mallet: Awesome. You mean your current toolchest isn't big enough right?
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Jan 27, 2018 19:36
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GEMorris posted:As for if anyone can do it or not, I'm a big believer that woodworking is just a matter of effort and time dedicated. The aesthetic challenges are maybe outside of this (but I know this can be trained as well). No one is a "natural" and getting good is a lot of work. That said, it's a hobby that can result in useful objects that you will probably appreciate for a long time. Everything I've been doing lately has fit into this category. Today I cut off some burls from trees that fell on my property, I'm going to see what I can make out of them. I knew an artist that used to carve boobs out of wood. Really beautiful knockers, sometimes 20 of them in a grape cluster, sometimes two big ol ones etc. He used to go looking for the boobs in the wood. I'm going to look for the boobs in the wood today.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:40
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Matthias Wandel has a video and article on making molding with multiple more common router bits rather than buying fancier bits. https://woodgears.ca/router_lift/molding.html That's pretty neat! Does require a router table that allows tilting the router though. Out of curiosity, what other uses can a tilted router be put to?
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Jan 27, 2018 20:20
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life is killing me posted:As far as joins, I think dovetail joints might be nice for th corners. I think some folks skimmed past this, but: dovetails are not easy, especially when you're probably going to be cutting them by hand since you don't have the specialized tools to do otherwise. Skim this page and some videos to learn about making different kinds of joints with hand tools: https://woodandshop.com/learn-traditional-woodworking-with-hand-tools/getting-started-traditional-handtool-woodworking-step-8/ At the bottom of the page there's this nice reference image of a whole bunch of different kinds of joints:  Bear in mind that in addition to having aesthetic qualities, all of these joints have different properties of strength and weakness from various different types of forces, so some of them will be very inappropriate for the specific joins you'll be making for your workbench. Hence the need to sketch up some kind of design first: you should probably be picking the joint type based on a combination of what you can accomplish as a beginner, and what is best for that specific joint.
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Jan 27, 2018 20:49
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