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I've been also inhaling fumes again, I'm building the Italeri Sunderland Mk.III. I'm trying out the black basing method somebody posted here a few years ago, as the Sunderland is white but in most WW2 photos dirty as gently caress. It's been working well so far, though there are two bits on the turret that I have to repaint black then layer it up because it doesn't match the general finish anymore! The kit is slightly finicky with its million goddamn round little windows, but otherwise good. INCREDIBLY NERDY NOTE: You can build it with a mk.2 radar (IE that sorta stickleback nest of antenna like I'm doing) but Italeri in a nice move or in anticipation of the Mk.V included mk.3 centimetric radar domes, so you can also build the kit as a mk IIIA.
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Jan 25, 2018 21:33
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Mr E posted:What's my best option for stripping off old Tamiya paint? Highly concentrated washing soda in hot water. Just dump in the parts and the paint will flake off within seconds.
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Jan 25, 2018 21:46
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Mr E posted:Also, has there been any worthwhile "raptor sheen" paint released? MRP makes a specific set of paints to match the Have Glass coatings, which are lacquer based. I haven't tried them but people seem to like the line in general. It's definitely airbrush-only paint, though. My strategy was to get the two colors from this model air paint set and mix it with a little bit of metal medium and then do a 50:50 gloss/satin varnish over it. The results were decent but not perfect. Prep and cleanup was very easy, though.
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Jan 25, 2018 23:57
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First time trying the Tamiya masking tape for curves. It works.
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Jan 27, 2018 09:22
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So, seeing that I'm a huge fan of 80s rally cars, my girlfriend gave me a scale model kit for Christmas. This gift (or curse) comes with a few issues. The first issue is that I have exactly zero experience with resin kits, including owning none of the tools. The second issue is that it's not just any kit, it's a 1:24 Hasegawa, which, according to what I've read - correct me if I'm wrong - is about the worst possible choice for a beginner Having accepted that it will probably take me months to make any progress, and that it will look like poo poo no matter what as I start with zero skills and a long past of botching craft work, where do I start? can I buy the tools and learn the skills in steps, or it's all or nothing? like, can I assemble first and paint later, or maybe the opposite? will it look good if I just paint in the colors suggested by the assembly instructions or do I have to learn other skills? are decals as much as a pain in the rear end as they look? Also: I don't really have a work area in my apartment (nor much room to make one), what do I absolutely need besides a table lamp and stuff to catch the glue and paint?
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Jan 27, 2018 16:52
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What kit is it? Also, when you say resin, it comes with resin parts?
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Jan 27, 2018 17:54
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Nebakenezzer posted:What kit is it? 20277, Lancia 037 Rally Grifone. It has what I believe is technically called a "metric shitload" of pieces, and from what I can tell, very finely detailed too Nebakenezzer posted:Also, when you say resin, it comes with resin parts? I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. By resin I mean plastic, or does it mean something else in the context of kits?
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Jan 27, 2018 18:32
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hackbunny posted:20277, Lancia 037 Rally Grifone. It has what I believe is technically called a "metric shitload" of pieces, and from what I can tell, very finely detailed too Regular scale model plastic is styrene (I think?) but you can buy aftermarket injection resin parts which are a lot more detailed. So when people talk about 'resin' they're usually referring to a specific kind of plastic parts.
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Jan 27, 2018 18:50
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Regular scale model plastic is styrene (I think?) but you can buy aftermarket injection resin parts which are a lot more detailed. So when people talk about 'resin' they're usually referring to a specific kind of plastic parts. Gotcha, it's just that I always see the term "resin" for 1:43 kits
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Jan 27, 2018 19:18
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hackbunny posted:I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. By resin I mean plastic, or does it mean something else in the context of kits? Resin means cast in a 2 part epoxy resin, which is a medium that gives a lot of detail, at the expense of a lot of weight and high cost due to both equipment and skilled makers, so it's usually only used for conversion parts - say a rare kind prototype tank turret you can use to replace the basic one that comes in a common tank kit. It also requires superglue. Hobby kit models are by and large made using injection moulded polystyrene, which is pumped out en masse by a machine for a hundredth of the cost, and can be glued with plastic cement. I checked on scale mates, yours is a pretty normal kit. Basically, you'll need a set of sprue snips, or flat sided snips, to remove the parts from the sprues, a hobby knife to clean up from the snips and other excess plastic, and a plastic cement like Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to glue it. If you want to practise on something less valuable, you can pick up cheap 1/72 scale car models on Amazon and the like for less than $15, and then not worry about mistakes while you're learning.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:22
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NTRabbit posted:Resin means cast in a 2 part epoxy resin, which is a medium that gives a lot of detail, at the expense of a lot of weight and high cost due to both equipment and skilled makers, so it's usually only used for conversion parts - say a rare kind prototype tank turret you can use to replace the basic one that comes in a common tank kit. It also requires superglue. This is all great advice, especially the last paragraph.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:34
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hackbunny posted:I'm sorry but I don't understand the question. By resin I mean plastic, or does it mean something else in the context of kits? What Sultan said. Your kit is normal modelling plastic, but there are also kits/parts for kits which are 'resin', a different sort of plastic which can be difficult to work with, because it is toxic. So...good news! You have a normal plastic kit! I've never made a Hasegawa kit myself, but my understanding is that all Japanese makers have great kit engineering, so they are easier to put together and less finnicky than other makes, so that's an advatange, too. I'm not sure if in the history of this thread we've ever done a "basic model building post" (if not, we should crowdsource that poo poo) but basic tools are very, very basic indeed. Like "hardware store basic." You need: Sandpaper (fine grades - like from 150 to 800 grt); - sanding sticks for your nails that you can pick up in the cosmetics dept of your local drug store also work Something for taking plastic parts off of the trees. This can be a small wirecutter or even a large pair of nailclippers; A sharp knife with disposable blades usually called a hobby knife, you can get them at wal mart; Glue; this should be specialty model liquid glue, hobby shops stock it. This glue acts by dissolving the plastic slightly, so the two parts melt together. You have to keep it away from clear parts, as it will melt and thus fog them, and it's best to fit a part, then try to glue it into place. You'll actually want to use good ol' white glue, IE the school stuff for transparent parts like headlights and windshields. Paint; This gets a little more complected. You need to get the paint for your kit. Instructions almost always call out the specific colors in various paint brands. What model paints are stocked (once again, at the model shop) depend on your geography. Ask the thread, they know the various brands and what they are composed of. This is important, as you need to know what kind of paint you are using so that you can clean your paint brushes and thin it properly. For example, I use acrylic paint mostly, as it is non-toxic and cleans up with water and soap. Tamiya paint you can also thin with Iso alcohol, available at your local drug store / wal mart. - Primer you also need. (Not sure how much painting you've done before but primer is a base that makes the paint stick.) Hobby shops (expensive, good quality) or hardware stores have it. - Speaking of, primer comes in spraycans. Depending on how you are painting, you may want to pick up a spraycan or two for your body shell. There's a specific technique to painting with a spraycan, but good news, the web or people ITT have you covered in explaining it. About the only other thing you really need to know is that the hobby shop stuff is what you want; it's formatted specifically for plastic. You can go to the hardware store for this, too - you just gotta beware of its formulation. Using something formulated for autobody work might melt your model - Also brushes and thinning. You will need a few paint brushes. Wal mart has you sort of covered for now, as they sell fine (but not very good quality) brushes. The really important thing as to brush painting is to ABT (always be thinnin'.) Three or four really thin coats will look amazing, while painting strait from the bottle often looks like rear end. Anyway, I'm sure the thread will chime up if I missed anything.
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Jan 27, 2018 19:39
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Here are some good cheap brushes for $10 and here is a surprisingly great cutter for only $5. I like using Model Master cement for general gluing and Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for things with long seam lines. If you have to glue painted parts, use superglue. Don't apply it right out of the tube (or bottle). Squirt some out on a disposable surface and use a toothpick to apply it to your part. I use the Bob Smith brand glue, but Loctite Gel Superglue is also very good. It isn't stringy like a lot of other superglues are. I don't know about the Hasegawa car kits, but their plane kits call for Mr. Color paint. Mr. Color (Gunze) recently discontinued their water based paint in the US, so you probably aren't going to have much luck finding any (assuming you are in the US). They still sell the Mr. Color lacquers in the US, but lacquer paint is not suitable for brush painting. I haven't done any car kits, so hopefully somebody else will have some advice about which paint to use. You'll also need some basic crap like tweezers, cotton swabs, toothpicks, masking tape (specifically painters masking tape and Tamiya tape), and paper towels.
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Jan 27, 2018 21:04
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Got the frames completely fitted, now moving on to the initial hull planking. And hey, finally got to use the scroll-saw I bought years ago. It's just a cheapo Dremel unit, but it cuts the planks like butter, so good enough for me.
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Jan 27, 2018 23:57
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Nebakenezzer posted:You'll actually want to use good ol' white glue, IE the school stuff I'm not from the USA so I'm not 100% sure what kind of glue you mean. Is that vinyl glue? Nebakenezzer posted:Paint; This gets a little more complected. You need to get the paint for your kit. Instructions almost always call out the specific colors in various paint brands. Yep, the assembly instructions include a color key table. The kit has 15 separate colors (!) and the table specifies color codes for the GSI Creos and Mr. Color brands Nebakenezzer posted:- Speaking of, primer comes in spraycans. Depending on how you are painting, you may want to pick up a spraycan or two for your body shell. There's a specific technique to painting with a spraycan, but good news, the web or people ITT have you covered in explaining it. I'll have to look this technique up. I know exactly zero about painting SkunkDuster posted:If you have to glue painted parts, use superglue. How would I know if I "have to"? I think you underestimate how much direction I need. I'm looking at assembly step 1 of 14 (cockpit) and I'm in a mild panic as it looks like I have to paint 8 separate parts in 5 distinct colors and apply 14 decals, which looks like about a lifetime and a half of work at my current skill level. I don't see any two pieces that should be glued together and painted in the same color either, so I guess I'll have to use superglue here? I might even lose my "applying superglue without gluing a fingernail shut" cherry I could do step 5 (muffler) first, with just 6 parts and 2 colors. I may even get it done by next Christmas, quietly throw the rest of the kit away and pretend I'm a huge muffler enthusiast (or rather, tiny muffler enthusiast. Man, these 1:24 parts are small or what?) Nebakenezzer posted:Tamiya tape
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Jan 27, 2018 23:58
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hackbunny posted:I'm not from the USA so I'm not 100% sure what kind of glue you mean. Is that vinyl glue? hackbunny posted:How would I know if I "have to"?
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Jan 28, 2018 01:52
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hackbunny posted:
Don't stress dude, it's all easy.  Just ask us. Gonna second the suggestion you try building a $10-$20 kit just to get your sea legs. Once you've been through the process you'll get you gotta be organized in bigger kits, but it's not all that tough. I know literally nothing about you except how you got your current avatar (lol how do I even know that? Star Citizen I think?) But having something practical as a hobby to the abstract computer stuff might be a nice contrast. Being able to focus on the proper sanding and fitting on suspension bushing #7 has a nice Zen calming effect to it.
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Jan 28, 2018 02:26
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hackbunny posted:I could do step 5 (muffler) first, with just 6 parts and 2 colors. I may even get it done by next Christmas, quietly throw the rest of the kit away and pretend I'm a huge muffler enthusiast (or rather, tiny muffler enthusiast. Man, these 1:24 parts are small or what?) It's probably best at first to do the steps in order. If you do the muffler first and then go back to step one, it would be more exhausting.
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Jan 28, 2018 02:58
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Got the frames completely fitted, now moving on to the initial hull planking. And hey, finally got to use the scroll-saw I bought years ago. It's just a cheapo Dremel unit, but it cuts the planks like butter, so good enough for me. You going to do any sort of a planking pattern on that or just use full length planks?
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Jan 28, 2018 04:44
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I think just full length planks. It's such a small section of the total hull that there wouldn't be many joints overall in this section (I think, just speculating), plus the entire hull is painted anyway, double plus if I change my mind later I could just score some joint lines with a blade.
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Jan 28, 2018 05:12
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I think just full length planks. It's such a small section of the total hull that there wouldn't be many joints overall in this section (I think, just speculating), plus the entire hull is painted anyway, double plus if I change my mind later I could just score some joint lines with a blade. The way the Brits (well, and everyone else too) did their hulls, there would be joints every 4-8 feet everywhere on the hull, as they are staggered in either a 3, 4, or 5 plank pattern. For example, here is an English cutter, based on actual archived plans from the Royal Navy:  There is probably a frame between each joint on the cutter, as well as under the joints. The actual planks would typically be 20'-28' long depending on the timber available. In my opinion, the joints add a lot to the final look, especially when you are working with something as large as you are, with as many planks as it has. When you paint it, the planks and joints should still show through I think, but I've never personally travelled to visit the Victory, and close up views of the hull are surprisingly hard to find with Google image search. Ultimately, as long as you are happy with how it looks, go for it, as that's really all that matters in the end.
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Jan 28, 2018 06:19
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Just had a look at the instructions for that Hasegawa kit, and, yeah, definitely not something one would want to build as a first kit. Or fifth. Hasegawa went kinda Miniart levels of insane with the details here.
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Jan 28, 2018 09:18
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I think just full length planks. It's such a small section of the total hull that there wouldn't be many joints overall in this section (I think, just speculating), plus the entire hull is painted anyway, double plus if I change my mind later I could just score some joint lines with a blade. The Locator posted:In my opinion, the joints add a lot to the final look, especially when you are working with something as large as you are, with as many planks as it has. When you paint it, the planks and joints should still show through I think, but I've never personally travelled to visit the Victory, and close up views of the hull are surprisingly hard to find with Google image search. I dunno if it'll be much help, but I was in Portsmouth last October and took a bunch of photos of Victory, so if you wanna speculate on planking patters or whatever, here ya go. (I hope that link works, facebook is weird.)
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Jan 28, 2018 09:42
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Devlan Mud posted:I dunno if it'll be much help, but I was in Portsmouth last October and took a bunch of photos of Victory, so if you wanna speculate on planking patters or whatever, here ya go. (I hope that link works, facebook is weird.) Cool, awesome photos! A little hard to make out joint lines because of the paintwork, but it looks like there might only be one lines of joints visible on the cross section hull, and each joint several planks apart. The cross-section only covers the width of two gun ports, and combined with the nelson-chequer paintwork, they seem like something that wouldn't even be noticed at this scale.
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Jan 28, 2018 10:06
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Seconding the idea of getting a 10-20 dollar kit (or three) to learn the basics on. Something simple, just to get used to gluing, priming, painting etc. I've built dozens of tanks, but even then I royally hosed up my first plane, and I'm very happy that it was a 15 dollar budget kit from Eduard. Because now I know more what to watch out for with planes, things that I didn't have to worry about with tanks, and so my next plane will (hopefully) turn out better. So in your situation, I would consider putting the complex kit on the shelf to rest a bit, pick up something simple, and just go at it with the single aim of making your mistakes on this kit, and not worry about the results. That outset can be surprisingly helpful, as your learning experience can be way more stressful if you're constantly worrying about loving up. Using such "burner kits" when you want to try out a new technique later on can be a good idea, and for now, EVERYTHING is a new technique if it's your first kit.
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Jan 28, 2018 11:14
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Also gotta remind yourself this can be a very cheap hobby, and typical plastic kits form a very small proportion of the overall cost. So grab a couple of cheaper kits and go nuts. I was in a very similar situation (got a few nice car kits as a gift) and started with this strategy but just ended up trying to perfect even my beginner crappy kits, but I think that’s just my personal hang ups and I assume most people wouldn’t fall into the same trap. I still haven’t started on the “nice” kits. That was 5 years ago.... poo poo. Anyway good luck, have fun! It can be a dumb cheap, relaxing little hobby, but it can take some effort to stay in that mindset. Like anything else really.
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Jan 28, 2018 11:46
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Granite Octopus posted:just ended up trying to perfect even my beginner crappy kits, but I think that’s just my personal hang ups and I assume most people wouldn’t fall into the same trap.  
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Jan 28, 2018 12:00
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Greyhawk posted:Just had a look at the instructions for that Hasegawa kit, and, yeah, definitely not something one would want to build as a first kit. Or fifth. Hasegawa went kinda Miniart levels of insane with the details here. Is there some online resource that has instructions for kits?
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Jan 28, 2018 14:08
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Arquinsiel posted:PVA glue, the kind you have probably used in primary school. Yep! Vinavil! Nebakenezzer posted:Gonna second the suggestion you try building a $10-$20 kit just to get your sea legs. Once you've been through the process you'll get you gotta be organized in bigger kits, but it's not all that tough. Aw man, I had some 1:43 kits bookmarked for a collection I'm planning, as "absolutely last resort" for cars without pre-made models, but they're pretty expensive. I can't use a $80 kit for training. Pity. At least I won't risk ruining a kit I actually care about Nebakenezzer posted:I know literally nothing about you except how you got your current avatar (lol how do I even know that? Star Citizen I think?) (Star Citizen???) Granite Octopus posted:I was in a very similar situation (got a few nice car kits as a gift) and started with this strategy but just ended up trying to perfect even my beginner crappy kits, but I think that’s just my personal hang ups and I assume most people wouldn’t fall into the same trap. That trap has my name all over it  So, my shopping list looks like:
I already have the sandpaper, wirecutters, hobby knife, PVA glue, tweezers, toothpicks, cotton swabs (the ones for make up application, too, with one flat tip and one fine-point tip) and paper towels. I also have a "third hand", one of these things, I don't know what they're called in English, bought on a whim years ago and never had a use for it, I wonder if it's useful in scale modeling? Anything else?
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Jan 28, 2018 15:04
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Patience and a way to deal with frustrations. (I was rushing painting a figure I've been working on for a dozen or so hours, messed it up royally, messed it up more trying to fix the first mistale and now I'm spending my sunday stripping it and getting all the old paint/pigments out of all the details with a #11 xacto knife and a toothpick. Fml) Molentik fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 15:43
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These kits look like they can survive being thrown across the room a couple times
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Jan 28, 2018 15:45
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SkunkDuster posted:Is there some online resource that has instructions for kits? http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10396185, this site seems to always have them available also scalemates sometimes has them (but not in this case) punchymcpunch fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Jan 28, 2018 |
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Jan 28, 2018 15:58
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Cool, awesome photos! Good enough, and you are probably right that at the scale you are working with it might be overkill. Looking forward to seeing it progress, it's a nice kit.
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Jan 28, 2018 18:15
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hackbunny posted:
It's Gunpla based but you can use this a a good reference for painting models. http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide Just remember it's easy to get caught up and want to do it quick, but take your time and you should get great results. Priming/spray cans : start spraying away from the piece and swipe it across. A few coats should be enough, you'll be able to see when it's coated right. Hand painting : Lots of thin layers, with ample drying time to cure. The first couple probably won't look like it's covering properly and you can still see the primer. But it will build up and when it has the finish should be great. Too thick and it will look terrible.
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Jan 28, 2018 20:36
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I hope this is the right thread to ask in and if it’s not my bad and I’ll delete my post but it looked like the closest thing in this sub; I’m looking to get into model trains like Lionel and was wondering if there’s some good reading material or a good starting place to springboard from? I have no experience with them but it’s been something I’ve been interested in as a kid but have always been kind of too embarrassed because of the stigma attached to it to really get involved beyond looking at catalogs and news letters until now
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Jan 28, 2018 21:24
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Dr. VooDoo posted:I hope this is the right thread to ask in and if it’s not my bad and I’ll delete my post but it looked like the closest thing in this sub; I’m looking to get into model trains like Lionel and was wondering if there’s some good reading material or a good starting place to springboard from? I have no experience with them but it’s been something I’ve been interested in as a kid but have always been kind of too embarrassed because of the stigma attached to it to really get involved beyond looking at catalogs and news letters until now There's model train people in this thread, although Lionel does of course have a reputation/stigma for being more "toys" due to generally being rough approximations of real trains based on inconsistent scales, they're sort of like hotwheels vs scale model cars. If you just like really big trains but want something a little more "serious" and properly scaled there's always O scale. It's about the size of Lionel but it's a proper consistent scale of about 1:48 (which a lot of other models share) and there's whole lines of matching scale building kits and scenery and stuff and they're much less toy-like. What are you looking to get out of the hobby? Some people's focus is entirely on the trains and are happy to just have a collection of nice looking trains they sometimes run around a temporary track but mostly sit on a display shelf. Some people's focus with model trains is more on the entire scene its self with realistic operations and LARPing a railroad dispatcher and making sure the hub caps on that 1949 pickup truck are exactly era appropriate for their 1952 autum layout. Generally the bigger scales are for people who are focused on the trains, while the smaller scales for people who are focused on the railroad as a whole.
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Jan 29, 2018 02:02
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I’d like to do a setup with a more permanent layout with scenes/scenery around the tracks. Eventually I may go the route of having a more active role in switches and dispatching of the trains but I’m not going for anything super realistic scene wise. I’m looking more to do a layout that will be typical of a train set but have a kind of flight of fantasy running through it like a crashed UFO surrounded by Men in Black style 1950’s agents hidden in some woods as just a random example. The trains will probably be the biggest focus in that the train track layouts will affect the scenes more so then the scenery dictating train track layout I suppose. I only use Lionel as an example because it was really the only train set manufacturer I was exposed to as a kid so if there are better options out there I’d be more then willing to also look into them
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Jan 29, 2018 06:09
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Hey, I'm probably one of those model rail guys, albeit in England. The unique selling point of model rail is that it is interactive and moveable after it is 'complete'. Of course you can put them on a plinth on a shelf, or sit in a cough-mixture induced haze and watch trains circulate a figure of eight on a sheet of 8' x 4' chipboard, but by far the most rewarding aspect is operating your railroad. This is alot less cringey than it sounds. Essentially you aim to build your layout in such a way that it provides scope for either puzzles (think Tower of Hanoi with rails, AKA "Inglenook Sidings" or "Timesaver") or roughly to approximate a real rail operation. For example, you might have a layout that is some staging 'off layout', and then 'on layout' a freight yard with cold store, caboose track, and a brewery. Your train arrives and you then busily sort all the wagons in to the right place while shifting all the empties back into your train, and exit scene left. It's very relaxing and an enjoyable way to get mileage out of your models once they're complete. If the idea of that attracts you, then you could do alot worse than picking up one of the Model Railroader 'Beginner Railroad' books. The only thing I will emphasise over and over is that you should NOT go for a monolithic board in the middle of the room unless you have a handy billiards table. It is MUCH more space efficient to have it going around on shelves (or even a set of trestles)!
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Jan 29, 2018 10:57
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Southern Heel posted:by far the most rewarding aspect is operating your railroad. Especially when you get yourself a proper Engineer's hat 
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Jan 29, 2018 11:10
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Southern Heel posted:Hey, I'm probably one of those model rail guys, albeit in England. Yeah this sounds much more attractive to me then creating an accurate diorama kind of static piece. I viewed the scenes as simply adding to to the control of the trains rather then being the main draw so I’ll definitely look into those books. Thank you!
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Jan 29, 2018 14:43
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