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poeticoddity posted:Has anyone in this thread done hand-assembly of panelized boards? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJWUUK1s_G0 I made one using the same pump. But instead of modding the diaphragm, I just stuffed my airline into the intake port. It helps a ton, especially if you lay out your components in an organized fashion before hand. That way you can pluck them out of the cut tape one at a time. That way you know exactly what orientation they're in every time.
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Feb 9, 2018 21:12
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea the latter. If I connect the power supply directly to the motor it works fine. Probably something poo poo the bed in the speed controller, I'll just order another. So, hang on, I see four terminals on the controller; from the amazon page it looks like you have live and ground going to the power supply, and live and ground to the motor, is that right? When you linked to the power supply, it went to a version capable of supplying 15A. I don't know how this controller works but I'm getting the impression that by design it might just be trying to pull 30A all the time from the power supply and then somewhere between none and all of that amount to the motor based on how far you turn the knob. In which case if you do in fact have a 15A supply then getting a new controller won't help and you'll just be tripping your power supply's circuit breaker forever. I don't suppose it came with a datasheet that could shed some light?
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Feb 9, 2018 22:00
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ANIME AKBAR posted:You want to make one of these: That is a great idea, thank you for posting it.
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Feb 9, 2018 22:05
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Renaissance Robot posted:So, hang on, I see four terminals on the controller; from the amazon page it looks like you have live and ground going to the power supply, and live and ground to the motor, is that right? It's an ac to DC power supply, it's supplying DC out, which is just positive and negative (I think)? No data sheets, I was just assuming the controller is rated to handle up to 30 amps, and the motor would pull whatever it needed depending on load. Is that wrong?
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Feb 9, 2018 22:13
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Quote is not edit
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Feb 9, 2018 22:19
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A Proper Uppercut posted:It's an ac to DC power supply, it's supplying DC out, which is just positive and negative (I think)? The lack of datasheets should clue you into something: None of these parts are rated legitimately. That supply probably can't produce 15A, and the speed controller probably can't handle 30A. Lack of UL certification is another red flag. The speed controller is just PWM'ing the power supply's output to feed the motor. That means the motor is drawing full power for whatever the period is, and I'll bet the PSU can't support that sort of loading. You need a supply that can support the motor's full nameplate amperage, plus some for inrush. If the supply is rated for the motor's draw, which you haven't mentioned, then the controller is likely junk. Buy a name-brand ESC or controller, not generic Chinese poo poo off Amazon. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 22:19
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sharkytm posted:The lack of datasheets should clue you into something: None of these parts are rated legitimately. That supply probably can't produce 15A, and the speed controller probably can't handle 30A. Lack of UL certification is another red flag. The speed controller is just PWM'ing the power supply's output to feed the motor. That means the motor is drawing full power for whatever the period is, and I'll be the PSU can't support that sort of loading. You need a supply that can support the motor's full nameplate amperage, plus some for inrush. The motor is rated to pull 7.2 amps max, so I made sure to go way above on the power supply. It runs fine if I connect the power supply directly to the motor. I ran it full speed for 30 minutes and no problems. It doesn't seem to me the power supply is the problem. Edit: I'm sorry if I'm coming off as combative, I'm not meaning to. Just don't know what I'm doing! I was just looking on Amazon for stuff that didn't have a bunch of lovely reviews. Please feel free to point me in the direction of a non lovely controller. A Proper Uppercut fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 9, 2018 |
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Feb 9, 2018 22:23
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Hey guys, stuck with this motor thing I'm trying to hack together. 1) Make 100% sure the Brake/Stop/Run switch is set to Run. 2) Double check that the fuse inside the controller isn't improperly seated, missing, or already blown. Watch yourself on those nearby caps though. 3) Look for any obvious shorts to that housing edit: if you've got a harbor freight nearby they usually have cheap speed controllers for power tools. Might be for AC though.
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Feb 10, 2018 00:29
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ANIME AKBAR posted:You want to make one of these: Thanks for the suggestion. I've actually made something similar before but with a foot pedal to control the vacuum since I found doing it with a finger-hole to be clunky.
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Feb 10, 2018 01:55
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A Proper Uppercut posted:The motor is rated to pull 7.2 amps max, so I made sure to go way above on the power supply. It runs fine if I connect the power supply directly to the motor. I ran it full speed for 30 minutes and no problems. It doesn't seem to me the power supply is the problem. No worries, you just said you way upsized the motor, and it's pretty easy to go over 15A in a DC motor. I'll echo the other response, check the fuse and the switch in the controller. Cheap Chinese electronics are often delivered half or non functional. Try brake on the switch too, in case it's labeled backwards.
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Feb 10, 2018 01:57
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I've had really good luck with RioRand branded devices. They're made to the low end of spec, assuming people will be like you; you got a 7A motor, so you'll buy a "15A" controller and a "30A" supply. That "30A" supply will certainly give 7A for a while, but it probably won't surge 15-or-more amps. I suggest some beefy capacitors between the controller and the power supply. Unfortunately, size and value of capacitors is something I look to the people in this thread to get.
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Feb 10, 2018 02:25
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Speaking of beefy caps I just got a 300W rated (lol yeah right) buck converter with 5 fat fucker caps on it and realized I better mount that poo poo to something immediately because it came with nothing to keep a finger from touching the solder points of the caps.  Fortunately I have a 3d printer and some standoffs so one quickie is already done. Unfortunately amazon didn't get my new iron out in time to arrive today so I can't do jack poo poo until Sunday.
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Feb 10, 2018 03:48
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Parts Kit posted:Speaking of beefy caps I just got a 300W rated (lol yeah right) buck converter with 5 fat fucker caps on it and realized I better mount that poo poo to something immediately because it came with nothing to keep a finger from touching the solder points of the caps. put in an earthed steel box
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Feb 10, 2018 03:54
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A very good idea, thanks.
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Feb 10, 2018 19:36
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Alright so: image stolen from Adafruit What are those cross-shape-lookin' things on the legs?
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Feb 12, 2018 00:53
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scandoslav posted:Alright so:
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Feb 12, 2018 00:54
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Yeah, if you drill the hole to the right size that keeps it from sitting completely flush with the board, for mounting or thermal reasons or just 'cuz
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Feb 12, 2018 01:11
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Word, thanks. That was my assumption, but you know what they say.
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Feb 12, 2018 02:59
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ate all the Oreos posted:Yeah, if you drill the hole to the right size that keeps it from sitting completely flush with the board, for mounting or thermal reasons or just 'cuz Another application for standoffs is that you can solder a component in place and then bend the lead between the component and the board to reorient the component. You'll see electrolytic caps soldered in vertically and bent 90 degrees to fit into a notch in a PCB so the enclosure height can be reduced, and you'll also see LEDs near the edge of boards bent over to fit into light-pipes, openings in enclosures, etc.
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Feb 12, 2018 04:46
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scandoslav posted:Word, thanks. A dick in the hand is worth two in the bush? I have a slight problem maybe this thread can assist me with. I gutted one of those bullshit ceiling fans with the remote control crap yesterday. It had an AC motor so I just ripped the controller out and re-wired it to run on separate switches for the light and fan. The original controller was a 3 speed remote with constant AC voltage output. Speed was controlled by capacitance. So presumably, the motor is meant to be a 3 speed motor as well (I don't know if that actually even matters). Can I just toss a 3 speed fan wall switch like this on that ckt and call it a day? GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Feb 12, 2018 |
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Feb 12, 2018 22:29
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I'm trying to determine the power (wattage) generated by "self powered" (Faraday Principle) stuff like those shaker flashlights. Or just watt-seconds per shake. https://www.geekalerts.com/shaker-flashlight/ Which I believe is just a decent magnet moving thru a coil of wire, rectified and connected to a super-cap. Image:  I'm guessing you can improve this with better magnets and perhaps some sort of spring system to allow the magnet to oscillate after one shake? I was inspired by this at CES: (yeah, I saw it work) https://seismicbikelight.com
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Feb 13, 2018 02:54
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Measure the capacitor voltage, shake it 100 times, measure the voltage again, work out how many joules went in from the difference and the capacitor's listed capacity, divide by 100, multiply by 2 if it's a half-bridge rectifier.
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Feb 13, 2018 03:19
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:A dick in the hand is worth two in the bush? Most likely yes, assuming that 3-speed controller is capacitor based.
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Feb 13, 2018 03:52
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TacoHavoc posted:Most likely yes, assuming that 3-speed controller is capacitor based. Well in a roundabout way I guess that's what I was asking. I'm not really sure and I'm having trouble finding information on it. It doesn't look like a fancy digital controller so 
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Feb 13, 2018 16:50
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 Anyone recognize this capacitor? Got 2 of them but the third spilled like 2 liters of capacitor fluid everywhere. seems to be some sort of high voltage cap but are unsure what sort of stuff I can use it for.
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Feb 13, 2018 22:48
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DSLAM posted:
High voltage, high capacity and white body makes me think it's made by RIFA, which look like this:  It's a... high voltage, high capacity capacitor, probably for a motor or microwave or something like that
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Feb 13, 2018 23:17
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Except it's obviously not made by RIFA it's made by NTK which it clearly says on the front, I am a dumbass
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Feb 13, 2018 23:18
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ate all the Oreos posted:Except it's obviously not made by RIFA it's made by NTK which it clearly says on the front, I am a dumbass If it's any help it is used by NEC in analog TV transmitters. The shape is like a cereal box (and the size of a cereal box) with two protruding(?) poles isolated from the case. DSLAM fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Feb 14, 2018 |
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Feb 13, 2018 23:52
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Good for rail guns and Tesla coils and microwaves I guess
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Feb 14, 2018 00:08
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If you had power supply capable of charging it to full 7.5kv, each one should store 225 Joules of energy. Try not to kill yourself.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:20
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ante posted:Good for rail guns and Tesla coils and microwaves I guess Quarter shrinkers too.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:33
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DSLAM posted:
Don't know anything about the product codes, but yeah the important numbers there indicate that it's a 7500-volt 8-microfarad capacitor. Very high voltage, small capacity. When charged, it will produce a brief, potentially deadly spark. Discharge it from a distance if you haven't already done so. note: "7500WV" means 7500 "working volts." That's the same as regular volts. The implication is that it can withstand a brief surge that's somewhat higher than 7500 volts, but 7500 is what's safe in normal operation.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:47
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eBay and such have a lot of off-the-shelf voltage regulators that step up/down from 5/24/36 volts to 12v and such, but i was wondering if anyone knew of an affordable, high-wattage (200-400w) voltage regulator that would take around 10-14v and bring it to exactly 12.0v ?
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Feb 14, 2018 02:24
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Zero VGS posted:eBay and such have a lot of off-the-shelf voltage regulators that step up/down from 5/24/36 volts to 12v and such, but i was wondering if anyone knew of an affordable, high-wattage (200-400w) voltage regulator that would take around 10-14v and bring it to exactly 12.0v ? The tolerance probably isn't that great but a car battery voltage regulator will be rugged and its purpose is to do roughly that.
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Feb 14, 2018 02:33
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Yeah, get an automotive buck-boost converter. In my experience they're relatively stable as long as you stick within their load rating and put a decent capacitor on the output. Rock-solid 12.00v is not gonna happen but if you're okay with like 11.92-12.11 or that kind of range then anything off eBay or Amazon will suit you fine.
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Feb 14, 2018 06:47
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Could you link an example? The stuff I'm turning up on eBay looks like it's maybe a single capacitor in the enclosure, or maybe nothing at all: https://m.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-12V-CAR-BATTERY-VOLTAGE-ECU-STABILIZER-REGULATOR-W-CABLE-JDM-GUN-METAL/152821829556 Tons of listings like that but I'd feel better if I could get an actual buck/boost. This looks like what I want, but I need about 40 amps while this only does 3: https://m.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Stabilizer-Wide-Input-8-40V-Regulate-Auto-Boost-BUCK-to-12V-3A-36-Watts-/263289650818?nav=SEARCH
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Feb 14, 2018 07:42
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Something else I found that might do the trick, is solar MPPT charge controllers: https://www.amazon.com/GreeSonic-Authentic-Controller-Waterproof-MPPT1575/dp/B071QXGV1Y/ Some of these can be programmed to put out whatever load voltage I'd want, and MPPT as I understand it is made to quickly buck/boost to bring the solar panel output to the desired voltage. For my application, I wanted to hook an exercise bike to a car alternator, which output around 14vdc. I'm wracking my brain to think of any reason why a car alternator wouldn't work instead of a solar panel for a MPPT charge controller. I emailed an MPPT manufacturer and they said an alternator can't be used but no explanation was given so I figure it's more covering their asses. Edit: Actually it's looking like it would be way more efficient to hook the bike to a wind turbine motor and use a Wind MPPT, because the more I'm reading on car alternators, they're only like 50% efficient for various reasons. Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 14, 2018 |
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Feb 14, 2018 20:51
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Wind turbine mppt sounds good. Non mechanical parts like solar panels replaced by mechanical generators would be noisier and shittier and likely to kill associated components
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Feb 14, 2018 21:26
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poeticoddity posted:If this project goes well, I'll probably look into either buying a pick and place machine or contracting an assembly service for any runs larger than this. Have you seen this guy’s homemade pick and place machine? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CRSLbo_8nTQ Project page, here: https://www.vbesmens.de/en/pick-and-place.html
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Feb 16, 2018 04:04
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Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:Have you seen this guy’s homemade pick and place machine? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CRSLbo_8nTQ Neat!
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Feb 16, 2018 06:47
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