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The first way of putting a quad where you want it is building one that has enough authority to do so. The sooner you move to brushless, the better. Also, lower your rates.
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May 5, 2018 02:18
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:I decided to play with FPV quads. I've got several years of electric fixed wing flying and had a couple of collective pitch helis I sucked at, but still finding the stick feel very challenging to get ahold of after a week or two of playing with sims and an acrobee. Mostly I'm astounded by how slow and precise everyone on youtube can fly tiny whoop variants around their houses; mine wants to accelerate like crazy in any direction and holding altitude is difficult. I'm still messing with rates to make it less aggressive. It takes a bit. You are learning on acro mode I would imagine, right? It's not quite as intuitive, but once you get it down it's much easier to control. It took a few weeks of flying to really get acro mode control to *click* with me, ya just gotta stick at it until then.
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May 5, 2018 02:46
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The sim quads definitely have more authority than the whoop, but the issue is fundamentally the same: my thumbs don't know how to have finesse enough to prevent the thing from building up a ton of speed. Also negotiating the roll-pitch coupling produced by the up-angled camera is still pretty weird. I am flying acro. Rates are lowered a ton. Seems to me that there is a midpoint on throttle for an OGE hover that is about 0.0001" wide, below that it descends and above that it climbs. Outdoors with even a very light breeze it's tough to keep below roof level without hitting the ground. There is some wacky yaw drift which randomly happens on throttle application. I just realized the vtx was on 1mw instead of 25mw so this may improve my usable range for future packs.
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May 5, 2018 04:49
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Start pinching the sticks instead, look ahead at where you want to go, as in look through the gates.
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May 5, 2018 05:52
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An acrobee is not a learner quad IMO, it’s not a good platform for acro (it’s underpowered and it’s got fuckall authority). It IS great for put-putting around indoors in angle mode when the weather is trash. If you’re starting out and you want a small quad a babyhawk is good. Google Butt posted:Start pinching the sticks instead, look ahead at where you want to go, as in look through the gates. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 09:41 on May 5, 2018 |
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May 5, 2018 09:26
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evil_bunnY posted:An acrobee is not a learner quad IMO, it’s not a good platform for acro (it’s underpowered and it’s got fuckall authority). It IS great for put-putting around indoors in angle mode when the weather is trash. I will second the Babyhawk for beginners. I went from no experience to competently flying LOS in a week or so.
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May 5, 2018 11:38
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Thanks guys. Babyhawk plain or R? I'm surprised that there are no used ones for either model on ebay; either they die fast or people like em enough to keep. I've been thumbing planes for years, trying pinching will have to be a last resort because of how morally wrong it is.
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May 5, 2018 17:22
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Plain is ok for starting to learn acro. R 3” flies pretty close to a 5” for half the money. If I were doing it all over again I’d get a not-R and learn basics over grass (it’s light enough you basically can’t kill anything but props) then build a decent 5”
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May 6, 2018 16:49
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Suf1f9kvFCE Got out playing with my Bansheee again. Too windy/bumpy to fly low, but starting to get the feel of this re-build.
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May 7, 2018 08:10
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It's that time again, and I'm looking back into FPV flying. Currently I'm looking at a Taranis QX7 and a pair of Eachine VR007 goggles (good radio before expensive goggles), but I'm not sure what to get to actually begin flying. Being able to cruise around in my tiny house would be fun, so I was looking at an Inductrix+, but apparently that won't work out of the box with the Taranis? I'm not opposed to building my own was also eyeballing UAVFutures' "$99" build from last year, but I'm not sure how out of date it is. I guess I'm looking for a beginner build/kit. An obstacle here is finding places that will ship LiPo batteries (or things that come with LiPo batteries) to Alaska. 
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May 8, 2018 04:05
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Alehkhs posted:It's that time again, and I'm looking back into FPV flying. Currently I'm looking at a Taranis QX7 and a pair of Eachine VR007 goggles (good radio before expensive goggles), but I'm not sure what to get to actually begin flying. Being able to cruise around in my tiny house would be fun, so I was looking at an Inductrix+, but apparently that won't work out of the box with the Taranis? I'm not opposed to building my own was also eyeballing UAVFutures' "$99" build from last year, but I'm not sure how out of date it is. https://www.fpvknowitall.com/ultimate-fpv-shopping-list/ I'm also just getting back into the fpv scene as well, but this looks like a decent starting point. Anyone who is more up to date who can comment?
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May 8, 2018 04:10
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If you want to fly inside a small house, Inductrix/Tiny Whoop is still pretty hard to beat. For something on FrSky, the Beta65 and AcroBee are both good options. Not sure if they ship to alaska, but RDQ has a pretty good sale on batteries for them: https://www.racedayquads.com/collections/tiny-whoop-products/products/250mah-3-8v-hv-1s-ph2-0-rdq-whoop-battery-powerwhoop-connector
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May 8, 2018 04:40
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sigseven posted:If you want to fly inside a small house, Inductrix/Tiny Whoop is still pretty hard to beat. For something on FrSky, the Beta65 and AcroBee are both good options. Not sure if they ship to alaska, but RDQ has a pretty good sale on batteries for them: https://www.racedayquads.com/collections/tiny-whoop-products/products/250mah-3-8v-hv-1s-ph2-0-rdq-whoop-battery-powerwhoop-connector Hmm... the Beta65s looks fun. How's this for a beginner kit?
I'd obviously need a battery charger and would want more batteries and... now I'm super paranoid about burning down my house.
Alehkhs fucked around with this message at 22:15 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 05:32
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Alehkhs posted:Hmm... the Beta65s looks fun. I'm dumb, didn't see you were looking for small stuff. I can say that I have the EV800Ds and I'm quite happy with it. For how cheap it is, I highly recommend.
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May 8, 2018 05:45
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Anyone flown one of these? I stripped down an OG babyhawk to build it and configured it in betaflight as a Y4. I'm pretty impressed so far, even though it tends to fishtail a bit in tight turns.
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May 15, 2018 16:46
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Heh, that's pretty neat.
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May 16, 2018 02:01
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bofadz2 posted:it tends to fishtail a bit in tight turns. I’m still pissed no one in the EU is selling gremlin-style replacement frames for babyhawk drivetrains.
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May 16, 2018 14:51
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You should give the Avan Babyhawk props a try. They were a noticeable improvement on my stock babyhawk.
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May 16, 2018 15:13
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First time with the Babyhawk at a local park was great fun. I need more than one battery, holy crap they go fast. Wearing goggles in public is embarrassing. I also put a few packs through the Acrobee which was fun, but so small that it becomes challenging to find it even in grass. Setup was fairly easy, except that I'm 90% packed for a move next week and few of my tools/supplies were available. Hot glue solves almost everything. I soldered the XM+ receiver in, fumbled through flash and setup, then figured out how to put the babyhawk, my acrobee, and the goggle receiver on the same band. Getting my taranis inputs to show up in Betaflight was an equal amount of fumbling guesswork until I had receiver checked on the right uart, and receiver type as sbus. Fatshark DVR just beeps at me when I try to record so I dunno what's going on there. Kind of disappointed that the whoop has full OSD capability but the baby has none so I couldn't adjust anything at the field. The first time I was confident enough to do a flip I saw an uncommanded 90 degree yaw at the end which fired me right into a metal railing. Bent one prop and prop guard back into shape and continued flying fine for a few more packs without issue. Gonna need to stock up on batteries and props, especially once my kids start wrecking this thing! Anyone have an amazon choice for adhesive foam for making like a battery mounting pad on the frame?
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May 16, 2018 18:08
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For the DVR, if it's like mine, after plugging them in, first wait for the red LED in the center to turn off. Then press and hold the right nub for a few seconds until the light comes on and stops blinking, indicating DVR is on. Then press it once to start recording and the LED should start blinking. Press it again to stop before turning goggles off or it might not save in my experience. It's pretty janky though, sometimes have to turn them off and back on to get it going.
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May 16, 2018 19:11
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sigseven posted:You should give the Avan Babyhawk props a try. They were a noticeable improvement on my stock babyhawk.
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May 16, 2018 23:13
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I plugged in my babyhawk battery today and, apparently, the quad-side JST connector had wiggled loose after one day of crashing allowing the leads to touch each other resulting in much smoke and melting connectors. gently caress. I've used JSTs in my rocket stuff for years and never had this problem, really weird. Board seems fine in betaflight but it'll have to wait until I get ahold of some replacement JST male and female leads to see if it all still works. Also tonight I realized that the fatshark balance lead is a fake lead to power the fan, which apparently is not powered by the main power connector? Fatsharks seem really janky so far given their pricing. Still not getting a blinking light indicator for dvr recording, but I haven't checked out the actual card yet.
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May 18, 2018 06:44
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The fat shark battery situation has been a disaster forever (barrel plug nothing else uses, balance plug isn’t a balance plug). They’re so annoying to charge they new ones just come with a USB charging circuit. That’ll totally not take forever. Then there’s the fact the low voltage alarm isn’t configurable so li-ion is useless. Pyroflip makes a cable with a built in regulator that’s pretty nice apparently.
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May 18, 2018 10:23
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evil_bunnY posted:The fat shark battery situation has been a disaster forever (barrel plug nothing else uses, balance plug isn’t a balance plug). They’re so annoying to charge they new ones just come with a USB charging circuit. That’ll totally not take forever. I used the 18650 FatShark battery case no worries, easily lasts me a full days racing using 2x Panasonic 3400mAH. Although i did have to repair the battery cable after about 6 months use as the core inside one of the wires had broken from being continually strained. Slash fucked around with this message at 10:48 on May 18, 2018 |
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May 18, 2018 10:39
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In the middle of moving out, my whoop name becomes a self fulfilling prophecy. I am not in control of this machine enough to do it intentionally. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBL4tf7Crrs
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May 19, 2018 04:58
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So... kinda interested in maybe getting into this. Is there a decent kit that is recommended to start out with? If not, maybe a guide in what all the parts that are needed to get started? I went back a few pages and saw the baby hawk recommended for beginner acro. Would this still be recommended if that wasn’t the goal?
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May 21, 2018 20:46
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Etrips posted:So... kinda interested in maybe getting into this. Is there a decent kit that is recommended to start out with? If not, maybe a guide in what all the parts that are needed to get started? If high-powered acro isn't the goal and you would rather do indoor/outdoor proximity, then I would check out the Happymodel Snapper7. I'm in disbelief that it's still going for $87 after all the positive YouTube reviews of it. The usual price point for brushless whoops has been around $120 and this one has those beat on features and performance. The previous go-to was the Boldclash BWhoop B06, but that one didn't have BLHeli_S ESCs, current sensing, RSSI, OSD, or an aluminum/carbon fiber frame. The basic version was sold out, so I had to pay an extra $10 for the standard version that comes with two extra batteries and a charger. I'm kind of glad I did because the batteries it comes with are pretty impressive. They really do demonstrate how much C-ratings are completely fabricated. These are rated at 30C, but they have noticeably more punch than the "80C/160C" GNB batteries I bought at the same time. The included charger is crap, though, and probably dangerous, seeing as it charged some of my LiHV batteries to just below 4.3V, and others to 4.4V or above. The display reads even higher, so even that's off. Also, all six channels have coil whine. You can imagine what a chorus of "squeeeeeeeeeeeee" sounds like for an hour straight. I'm not sure what I'd recommend instead to a beginner, though. For 1S batteries, I was previously using the BetaFPV charger, but that one is a little pricey for what it is (especially since you need to buy or build an AC adapter separately), slow, and it undercharged my batteries (to 4.28V). These days, I use an ISDT Q6 Plus with a $4 parallel board and a $10 120W HP laptop power supply converted to XT60, but that doesn't make economic sense unless you already have bigger models (or plan on getting some). I should post some DVR videos of this thing. Every time I play them back, I have to remind myself that this isn't something bigger because it seriously moves, even outdoors.
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May 22, 2018 03:58
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I've decided to exit the R/C hobby (for now) and put a bunch of my poo poo for sale over in SA Mart. Hopefully nobody minds me linking to it here since it's the most relevant thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3857841
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May 24, 2018 02:53
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I have spent the past few weekends testing a prototype of my newest design for Extreme Flight...a 69” model of the full scale Turbo Raven (which flew for a year and crashed in the 90’s). It’s a precision/3D design that is built super light and flies on a power combo normally used in smaller 60” planes. Super happy with how it flies. Despite the low weight it can still be fast, aggressive, and extremely precise. There are a couple issues to work through with the factory to get it as light as possible but so far I’m thrilled with it and don’t want to fly anything else! The only problem is that my job now is to try to break it in the air to see if it is strong enough and it’s so pretty and lovely that I have trouble bringing myself to hurt it 
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May 25, 2018 14:49
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That's cool! I've just resurrected my Twisted Hobbys MXS-C and will start doing some 3D again.
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May 25, 2018 17:41
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A few more pictures of the Sexiest Airplane:  
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Jun 2, 2018 16:01
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFdPRjcNdlA Finally replaced my babyhawk fc. I am a competent solderer but what a pain in the rear end that was to undo and redo.
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Jun 3, 2018 13:42
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I know everybody's made them, but would anyone be interested in buying up to 6x of some homemade18650 Fatshark packs? They're using F1L cells, 3200mah 2S with a real balance lead on them -- everything was spot-welded to the battery and soldered afterwards, with shrink on them. They're red (fastest color). Will entertain nearly any offer.
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Jun 4, 2018 23:38
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I'm looking at brushless motors and ESCs, but it seems marketing lingo may be getting in the way of actual stats. The motor KV rating shouldn't really apply, should it? Brushless are AC, so frequency output by the ESC is the deciding factor for RPMs. What is the limiting factor in the system of battery, ESC, and motor? And what is the throttle input bound to (frequency, amps, ?)?
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Jun 5, 2018 01:21
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I don't by any means fully understand how it works, but the kv rating does apply. I assume each pulse (per volt) can only move the motor X-amount depending on how it's would? Regardless, the kv rating applies Throttle input is a PWM signal. Most ESC's requires to A) be calibrated and B) have a minimum PWM required in order to start the motor.
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Jun 5, 2018 01:43
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Corky Romanovsky posted:I'm looking at brushless motors and ESCs, but it seems marketing lingo may be getting in the way of actual stats. The motor KV rating shouldn't really apply, should it? Brushless are AC, so frequency output by the ESC is the deciding factor for RPMs. What is the limiting factor in the system of battery, ESC, and motor? And what is the throttle input bound to (frequency, amps, ?)? The kV value applies because that's the measure of the fundamental electromagnetic performance of the motor. Imagine that you had an ESC putting out a 1-megahertz signal to the coils. Does that mean the motor is going to spin 1 million RPM? No, its motion is still limited by how much force the coils can apply to the magnets to overcome the rotor's inertia and frictional drag. The motive power still has to come from somewhere, and that's current (which comes from voltage because coils are ohmic loads). The motor will just vibrate because the coil field is changing more quickly than the rotor can get itself moving. What the throttle specifically does depends on your ESC. In the simplest case, the ESC just strobes a series of MOSFETs which are connected directly to the battery. Battery voltage goes into the coils, voltage and coil resistance set the current, current generates a magnetic field, magnetic field creates motion. The motor will jump to its next set of poles as quickly as it can. Cycling the MOSFETs on and off more quickly drives the motor around more quickly, up to a point where it doesn't have enough magnetic field strength (voltage) to spin as quickly as the controller is telling it to. That's the maximum speed. More complex ESCs may also have current control (which is implemented as voltage control with feedback) so that the system only draws just as much power as it needs for a requested RPM, or sensors that can detect the position of the rotor and adjust the waveform to better synchronize the magnetic field rotation with the movement of the rotor. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 02:08
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Corky Romanovsky posted:I'm looking at brushless motors and ESCs, but it seems marketing lingo may be getting in the way of actual stats. The motor KV rating shouldn't really apply, should it? Brushless are AC, so frequency output by the ESC is the deciding factor for RPMs. What is the limiting factor in the system of battery, ESC, and motor? And what is the throttle input bound to (frequency, amps, ?)? Motors spin as fast(at full throttle) as their KV ratings say they do, so a 2000KV motor at 10 volts is spinning at ~20k RPM. It's usually something screwier like 2350KV at 16.8 volts but the math is the same (2350x16.8=39,480RPM). Keep in mind the voltage of the battery is constantly sagging/fluctuating during flight so you're never really spinning at that exact number. ESC's are rated by the current it is capable of pushing through it. The motor will 'request' power, the ESC will attempt to deliver it. If the motor is asking for 50 amps and the ESC is only rated for 30a you'll likely blow it up. If the motor only wants 30-40 amps at max throttle a 30a might be able to survive if it's not stressed for too long. Ideally you'll pair your motor with an ESC that can handle the max amount of current it will require. The bottleneck of the system is definitely the battery. Modern motors can pull insane amps (like 60+ per motor) and modern featured ESCs go up to like 80a now, but batteries to run that stuff the way it should be run will be VERY expensive. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 02:15
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Still not quite there, I think. Here is a comprehension check. 1/ any motor under extreme load will cause an amp demand that is likely unsustainable by the battery, ESC, and motor 2/ the throttle position is nonsensical magic, it doesn't control voltage, it doesn't control amps, and it doesn't control frequency of the AC output 3/ an oversized ESC cannot damage a battery or motor with excessive voltage or current because those are dependant on voltage supplied by the battery and current demanded by the motor?
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Jun 5, 2018 03:39
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Corky Romanovsky posted:Still not quite there, I think. Here is a comprehension check. Brushless motors and brushless speed controllers work by switching the full battery voltage across each of several magnetic coil loops in sequence. The ESC measures back current resistance in order to time the sequence for your throttle input. A motor's Kv rating is the rotational speed per volt with no additional load. 3S battery's charged voltage at 4.2v/cell is nominally 12.6v so a 2000Kv motor would spin at a max RPM of 25,200 RPM. Once you add a propeller, the max rotation speed is the Kv minus whatever additional load the prop adds. 4S batteries would give a peak charge of 16.8v or max 33,600 RPM. Most of the resistive force is the resistive load of the magnetic coil against the rotation of the motor bell. If the motor seizes there's little-to-no resistance, so the load is effectively the max amp discharge rate of the battery across the ESC, motor pole, and the battery's internal resistance. Whichever one fails first depends on the sizing of the battery, the sizing of the ESC, and the voltage rating of the motor. And IIRC the resistance of the motor is the inverse of its rotational speed, so that's why the Amp load goes up as the motor spins faster. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 04:11
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PWM pulsing via MOSFET in combination with resistance in the wires and could essentially controls voltage to the motors. The flight controller demands a certain throttle, the PWM duty cycle gets set accordingly, to create a certain voltage based on VBATT, and then it just commutates as fast as the motor will spin under that voltage.
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Jun 5, 2018 04:24
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