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Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

For finishing carvings, less is generally more. A few coats of boiled linseed oil with some paste or beeswax on top is great and simple and makes a nice satin finish. Danish oil is an oil/varnish blend that is easy to use and offers a bit more protection, but may not give you as smooth a feel in the hand as linseed oil. I would stay away from film finishes like polyurethane or lacquer or shellac for now. Too much gloss can make glare and sparkles on the carving and make it look off-what’s supposed to be a deep cut and in shadow catches the light and looks like it’s raised instead of recessed etc. If you get into relief carving (designs cut into a surface) some sort of glaze or stain or wax that sits down in those deep lines really helps make the carving stand out.

Thanks for the tips. Didn't realise there were so many ways to finish the wood and that they did different things. I just thought it was oil and wax to make it look nice without changing colour and stain if you do want a different colour.

I'm working on carving a guy now so it's designed to be rough and without finish but I'll look into finishes for other projects.

Going back to what you said earlier too, I think it is definitely pine. I was testing a block and the lighter areas of the wood are super easy to carve but the dark rings are really difficult. I always wondered why it was easy sometimes to do a v-cut but really difficult other times.

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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Anyone want to recommend plans for a small table? I have a space next to my front door, maybe 2-3 feet wide, that could do with a flat surface and maybe a drawer or two. But the air return for my furnace is right there at ground level, so I need to not block that.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
I want to do a 7 foot floating shelf in my kid’s room but all the kits I see are basically mdf or what have you (and almost never this long.

Does anyone have any advice or experience with doing your own?

I figure I get 5 inch bracket rods, (aiming for about 8 inch depth) and attach 4 or 5 of them to the studs. Then use a drill press or drill guide for straight holes. Figure my wood’s gotta be over an inch and a half because the bracket’s plates are usually about 1.25”. I also need to Route out the back edge so it can envelope the bracket’s plate thickness.

Does this all sound about right? Is there a good, straight wood that is lightweight?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
The one floating shelf I've done was like this:
  • Choose board to serve as shelf. I used a white oak board that was about 7/8" thick.
  • Rip board into one section that's ~2" wide, and then the rest of the board.
  • Drill holes through the edge of the 2" section. You'll need a self-centering dowel jig or similar.
  • Drill corresponding holes in the other piece, to a depth of at least 50" of the board width.
  • Cut allthread rods (of diameter equal to the drilled holes). Length of each rod should be the depth of the above drilled holes + 2". Probably want something like one rod per foot of shelf? I dunno.
  • Stick rods into the 2" section. Use screws to attach the section to studs on the wall (probably need to countersink the screws fairly deeply, or else use really long screws).
  • Push the remainder of the shelf onto the allthread. You'll probably need a mallet, because the holes won't be perfectly straight/aligned so they'll apply horizontal clamping forces. And if you decide to take the shelf down, you'll need a prybar or something destructive.

The weight of the wood isn't going to be an issue; the weak point is where the load transfers from the shelf to the wall, which makes a hinge joint. The shelf I made is less than 3' long and just holds some baking pans; total load is easily under 10 pounds. If you want to store books or something along those lines, or if you have a live load from kids climbing on the thing, then you'll want a thicker shelf, not so much so the wood is stronger, but so you can fit a sturdier, more rigid kind of rod internally. Maybe something like rigid metal conduit instead of allthread. And yeah, if you go that route you'll need straighter drilling, and near-perfect registry between the rod placement and the holes in the shelf. Allthread can flex a bit during installation so if you're off by 1/32" then it's not a big deal, but more rigid rods have of course less play.

bred
Oct 24, 2008
You can do something hollow like a small stud wall or torsion box that's easy to hang before putting a top on.

The Wonder Weapon
Dec 16, 2006



I need an adhesive to attach a strip of LED lights to a polyurethaned piece of wood. It should be strong enough to hold it in place, but not so aggressive that I can't peel the strip off without damaging the lights or the poly at some point in the future.

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCHR346/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Application:

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
Double-sided rug tape?

Or command strip clips they use to hang Christmas lights is probably even better.

Huxley fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Aug 17, 2018

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Would hot glue work?

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

If they're LED strips, I'm assuming it's likely in a place that you don't typically see unless you're underneath something. Does slightly damaging the finish actually matter?

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Just use the double sided 3M Command stuff they use to mount the hooks. I did that very thing on the back of my kid’s new bunk bed.



Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

This might be a really stupid question, but where do I go to buy furniture grade plywood in hardwood flavors like walnut? I live north of Philadelphia, and while I found a charming sawmill where I can get lumber I have no clue where to start looking for sheet goods.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Veneered plywood or hardwood plywood? Either way the answer is probably Google your local area and ##### plywood. It's worth considering whether you can veneer something yourself, as I found I could buy a couple of sheets of plywood and a buttload of verge for the price of a single veneered sheet locally.

revolther
May 27, 2008

Feenix posted:

Just use the double sided 3M Command stuff they use to mount the hooks. I did that very thing on the back of my kid’s new bunk bed.




This is a very frightening prison you've built for your child.

One Legged Ninja
Sep 19, 2007
Feared by shoe salesmen. Defeated by chest-high walls.
Fun Shoe
Just the thing for all of your in-home sleep deprivation experiments! Is it really that blue, or is the camera just over compensating?

Edit: Had to come back and see if it was Javid building this bunk bed. :sweatdrop:

One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 13:09 on Aug 18, 2018

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Putrid Grin posted:

This might be a really stupid question, but where do I go to buy furniture grade plywood in hardwood flavors like walnut? I live north of Philadelphia, and while I found a charming sawmill where I can get lumber I have no clue where to start looking for sheet goods.
You need a real lumberyard or cabinet supplier-where the local cabinet/millwork shops buy their lumber. Würth Wood Group is a national chain that may be in your area and has more flavors of plywood than you knew existed. Most are wholesale only and not open to the public, but there’s probably someplace that would sell you a few sheets. If you have trouble, you might try a cabinet shop and see if they could get you what you need.

Be prepared to pay $75+/sheet for walnut veneer plywood and be aware that the face veneers have already been sanded and are SUPER thin. If you sand through them you’ve got a real mess.

If you need smaller pieces, veneering it yourself may be a good option, but veneering comes with its own set of challenges and usually doesn’t wind up being much cheaper than solid lumber if you get real veneer. I would not try and veneer a whole sheet yourself without a press.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.

One Legged Ninja posted:

Just the thing for all of your in-home sleep deprivation experiments! Is it really that blue, or is the camera just over compensating?

Edit: Had to come back and see if it was Javid building this bunk bed. :sweatdrop:

It’s just the camera. It’s a hue light strip so it can do any color and on a schedule. So it works nicely as a red nightlight when he sleeps. Sometimes he picks the colors, though.

Pissed Ape Sexist
Apr 19, 2008

The Wonder Weapon posted:

I need an adhesive to attach a strip of LED lights to a polyurethaned piece of wood. It should be strong enough to hold it in place, but not so aggressive that I can't peel the strip off without damaging the lights or the poly at some point in the future.

Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCHR346/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Application:


I had the same problem for the top of a built-in entertainment/bookshelf unit-- the sticky strips are handy but really...sticky. I put a big line of good masking tape down and stuck the adhesive to the tape, then trimmed the tape edges with a razor.

E: you already have the non-adhesive strips, oops. Yeah, maybe double-sided tape, or intermittent Velcro tabs?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

museum wax

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Made a quick tool well out of red oak (because I have hundreds of boardfeet and I don't like making furniture out of it) and I already love it. I kept bruising parts from having too many tools sitting on the bench.





The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Very nice, and that's one hell of a nice looking and VERY solid work bench you've got there.

One Legged Ninja
Sep 19, 2007
Feared by shoe salesmen. Defeated by chest-high walls.
Fun Shoe
"Made a quick tool well." *Lovingly rounds over each edge, plugs all screw holes, sands and finishes each surface, including ones that never show.* We sure have a skewed perspective on what quick is in this hobby. (I would have done the same.)

Edit: vvv Could be that too.

One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Aug 19, 2018

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Screw holes? I thought those were through dowel tenons.

Looks lovely though, yeah.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Soooo I'm not a woodworker, (though the few times I have worked with wood I loved it), kind of at the other end of the spectrum (machinist).

Just thought this was really cool. Our little rear end shop is now making the majority of planer blades and parts for Lie Nielsen.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGjNWj3jHuM


We have also been waterjet cutting saw blades for them too, that was our foot in the door.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
Is hand cutting well-fitting rabbets into pine for box sides actually pretty difficult with a dovetail saw, or do I just need much more practice?

Salvor_Hardin
Sep 13, 2005

I want to go protest.
Nap Ghost
I just finished staining this end table I made and am preparing to apply polyurethane. Do I need to poly the whole unit or can I just do the horizontal surfaces?



Thanks in advance.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Huxley posted:

Is hand cutting well-fitting rabbets into pine for box sides actually pretty difficult with a dovetail saw, or do I just need much more practice?

Depends how picky you are about "well fitting," but yeah, it's not trivial. You can use a straight and square length of wood to guide your sawplate. If you're cutting cross grain, a deep knife trench helps guide the saw. Make sure the teeth are exiting the kerf each stroke to clear sawdust. If you're a little narrow when fitting, clean up the walls with a good sharp chisel.

You might also have more luck with a different approach, like using a vintage skew rabbet plane, or a modern rabbet block plane.

Watch several different techniques on YouTube and try a couple to see what feels right to you.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
god drat logs are so heavy D: Just gonna put this 8' log 6' 4' log in my trailer no problem

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Huxley posted:

Is hand cutting well-fitting rabbets into pine for box sides actually pretty difficult with a dovetail saw, or do I just need much more practice?
I would put it in in the ‘definitely not easy’ category, especially if you’re using a yellow pine. Those funny side rabbet planes or a moving filister would help if I’m understanding what you’re doing. Scribing a line and cutting just to the waste side and then chopping exactly to the line with a chisel might work too. A bigger saw might help as well if you’ve got one. Otherwise a power router with a straight bit and a fence will make short work of it if you don’t mind using power tools.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
good progress today, man I love doing this stuff



:nws: 1/3 firewood stack wood porn

Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

Hypnolobster posted:

Made a quick tool well out of red oak (because I have hundreds of boardfeet and I don't like making furniture out of it) and I already love it. I kept bruising parts from having too many tools sitting on the bench.







I know I've just started with whittling and carving but the more I see stuff like this the more I want to get started with my own little workshop and tools and just start making stuff. That thing looks solid as a rock.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Hypnolobster is a pro follow on Instagram.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Putrid Grin posted:

This might be a really stupid question, but where do I go to buy furniture grade plywood in hardwood flavors like walnut? I live north of Philadelphia, and while I found a charming sawmill where I can get lumber I have no clue where to start looking for sheet goods.

Philly has been pretty not great to me for being able to buy any nicer woods

Your best bet, quite honestly, is to just make a trip out to Lancaster and stock up out there

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Salvor_Hardin posted:

I just finished staining this end table I made and am preparing to apply polyurethane. Do I need to poly the whole unit or can I just do the horizontal surfaces?



Thanks in advance.
You should put poly on anything you want to be protected and shiny. Stain will not protect the wood, and without a coating over the stain it may rub off.

Salvor_Hardin
Sep 13, 2005

I want to go protest.
Nap Ghost

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You should put poly on anything you want to be protected and shiny. Stain will not protect the wood, and without a coating over the stain it may rub off.

Cool thanks. I figure I'll do one coat on everything and maybe a second on the top surface since that's where drinks and such will be placed.

keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

Last week Matthias Wandel posted a video that has was moving provinces and was selling a few of his tools.
One of the items was his 18" bandsaw he made in this series.

I put in a bid and won! So I made the 11 hour drive (there and back) to his place on Friday to pick it up. And I'm now the proud owner of this!



Honestly it was a good deal on its own. I know its hard to compare a home made saw to a commercial model, but I could never score a used one anywhere near this price.
Also Id be lying if I said part of the fee wasn't to go meet someone who inspired me to get into woodworking.

Matthias was really nice and was willing to just talk with me for an hour about the band saw, why he did what he when he made it, what he'd change, his shop, home made tools, and his move to Fredericton, etc. Just a really nice guy! It was a neat experience.
It was also really cool just to see his shop from the other side of the screen.

Now I gotta run 220 to me shop so I can try this thing out.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
You now own the world’s most famous bandsaw.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I saw his video about the repetitive stress injury and the decision to move. It's kinda depressing. I hope he's able to continue doing what he does after his move.

Is he giving up woodworking or just the tractor and farm life?

Granite Octopus
Jun 24, 2008

Yeah that was really sad to watch. I worry a lot about that kind of thing. Very nice work on getting it though, I t’s great that it can live on with a goon!

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I interpreted it as he's taking a break to recover. Sadly he can't keep his property and maintain it and do that, hence the move. I suppose we'll still get content though, but not the same as we've been getting.

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keep it down up there!
Jun 22, 2006

How's it goin' eh?

It was definitely sad to hear about his injury. Hopefully he recovers soon. I did offer to help move anything large he might need while I was there, but he didn't take me up on it.

Matthias told me he would be going back to a basement shop at his new place. So it sounds like he'll continue woodworking and making videos.

His property was quite big. I imagine it was a lot of work to maintain. So hopefully the reduced workload there will help him recover faster.

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