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Khorne posted:She keeps asking me to find more cars and to help her. I don't really have "hey, here's a slew of cars you might find cool as hell" because my taste in cars is super boring. I drive a 2013 ford fiesta with a manual transmission. It does everything I want except fire the team behind ford sync into the sun. I would not expect her, or anyone else, to drive that car. Sounds like she mainly needs time to refine what she really wants. She seems like a kid in a candy store at the moment, overwhelmed with all the stuff she could get. A site like Car and Driver has lots of good reviews she can peruse to figure out what she's after. Getting out and driving some will help a lot. Lots of cars can seem cool on paper, but are a lot different when you're behind the wheel. It may take multiple cycles of research and driving to figure it out. The most important thing is to set a hard budget of what you can afford, then look for something about 80% of that. That gives you a little wiggle room if you find the perfect car just a tad higher. Without a clear, well-defined budget cap, a salesman will be able to talk you into something way more expensive than you really want. You'll be signing the papers before you can process it. The other important thing is to define exactly what roles the car has to fulfill. If its only job is to get her around in style and fun, a sports car would be perfect. If you will need it to haul mulch or concrete blocks on the weekend, you'll need something more practical. Think about her needs not only today, but five years from now. You'll want to be able to keep it for a long time.
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Sep 4, 2018 15:22
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Deteriorata posted:Think about her needs not only today, but five years from now. You'll want to be able to keep it for a long time. Khorne fucked around with this message at 15:52 on Sep 4, 2018 |
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Sep 4, 2018 15:49
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Khorne posted:I'm not convinced she will keep it for a long time. Churning through cars can get expensive. That's fine if you can afford it. If money is tight, there's a whole lot of other things you could be spending that money on. Generally, the cheapest overall way to own a car is to drive it until the wheels fall off. But that's something else the two of you will have to work out.
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Sep 4, 2018 15:52
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Please please shop around. I got more info from my mom about her new purchase, and after a good fight about it, she realized she hosed up majorly and got run through the cleaners. Because her 2008 Equinox she traded/sold for $2k, her new car is $480 a month at 4% interest and the loan is for something like 7 years. She started screaming if she had HAD help she wouldn't have bought it (keep in mind she didn't want to check much online, never got a quote for repairs on the Equinox, and decided to go to the dealer Saturday morning without any help or even ASKING for anyone to go with her), and didn't see through the car salesman's clear bullshit when I did, and maybe it's my fault too for not telling her outright not to get the loving thing, but Jesus when you've already made up your mind or you're on the fence, DON'T loving SIGN THE DEAL.
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Sep 5, 2018 03:29
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The funniest thing will be when someone else's well meaning but clueless parent comes in and believes the salesman when he tells them the dealership has $8K in this pristine Equinox and so his manager absolutely won't let him sell it for less than $9K and he's actually going to have to lose money out of his own pocket on the deal but he's willing to do that because he likes [clueless parent] so much. Over the years I made too many quixotic efforts at saving poor clueless relatives from buying cars from dealerships and computers from Best Buy. I learned from the experiences--not soon enough, but eventually--that your clueless relatives will be happier if they remain clueless. Try to enlighten them and both they and you will end up disgruntled. Just leave them to their fate. Eric the Mauve fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Sep 5, 2018 |
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Sep 5, 2018 03:40
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Anything less than 5% on used is good. I doubt it's an 84 month loan if the interest rate is that low. Its probably 72 months which while not BFC approved isn't the end of the world. After taxes and extended warranty she probably financed around 28-29k? The extended warranty can be cancelled and she'll get a refund. It will be a fight with the dealership finance guy but it can be done.
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Sep 5, 2018 03:48
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Cowslips Warren posted:My mom has a Chevy Equinox that just hit its 100k. I don't know how old the car is, but needs headlight work, the turn signal doesn't turn off automatically, and the key gets stuck in the ignition. A bit late on this, but the key getting stuck in the ignition I'm ALMOST sure might have had a recall on it. I think specifically when I was doing some looking at a Chevy HHR there was a number of years that had two exact opposite problems that got the same fix: Many different Chevy models/years, the key would fall out of the ignition in the running position and on others the key could not be removed in the off position. I've been doing a lot of web searching for a used car, but I'll still just go to lots and look at stuff unannounced to just glance at stuff. But I live in bad area for used cars because for some reason, I'd say almost every single used car I've been interested in has some sort of issue. I'm thinking I need to get a different car sooner than later and I need to get one before I NEED to get one, if that makes any sense. At this point, because I'm so far from any options, I might just do Carvana.
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Sep 5, 2018 04:45
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TheWevel posted:Anything less than 5% on used is good. I doubt it's an 84 month loan if the interest rate is that low. Its probably 72 months which while not BFC approved isn't the end of the world. After taxes and extended warranty she probably financed around 28-29k? yeah, 4% is fine for used. an extended warranty on a one year old honda is a big ole waste of money
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Sep 5, 2018 11:39
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JediTalentAgent posted:A bit late on this, but the key getting stuck in the ignition I'm ALMOST sure might have had a recall on it. I think specifically when I was doing some looking at a Chevy HHR there was a number of years that had two exact opposite problems that got the same fix: Many different Chevy models/years, the key would fall out of the ignition in the running position and on others the key could not be removed in the off position.
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Sep 5, 2018 13:08
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JediTalentAgent posted:A bit late on this, but the key getting stuck in the ignition I'm ALMOST sure might have had a recall on it. I think specifically when I was doing some looking at a Chevy HHR there was a number of years that had two exact opposite problems that got the same fix: Many different Chevy models/years, the key would fall out of the ignition in the running position and on others the key could not be removed in the off position. do you live... on the moon?
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Sep 5, 2018 13:28
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Nitrox posted:Consider buying cars from not-so-immediate area? My window since the start of Summer has gone from local (about 3 dealers) to those about 45-60 minutes out of my way (probably about 10 more), to those about 90-120 minutes out of my way. I know that doesn't seem like much to some people, but that's becomes nearly 200-250+ miles round trip, an entire day devoted to that, and between a lot of issues, I've not had the time all Summer. Private sellers have dropped off considerably in the last several years. Overall, the entire selection everywhere seems pretty much built around large trucks and SUVs, which I'm not really interested in, and it's been so long since I've looked at cars I don't know if that's just the new normal. Almost everything compact/sub-compact, fuel-efficient, etc feels scarce.
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Sep 5, 2018 15:06
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I went to look at the Toyota. It looked/felt okay, but the dealer really didn't seem to have any knowledge of the structural damage comment on the Carfax other than they'd inspected it and it looked good and nothing had shown up on their Autocheck report and a third report I ran didn't seem to have info/indication,either. I believe they suggested that it might just be damage that was repaired so it would show up regardless. It felt like it ran straight and smooth. A lot peppier than I thought it'd be. I still don't know how to feel about it. I liked it a bit more than I thought I would, but I swear I think I almost hit a light post next to the front fender during test drive when backing up (same side that the accident was on, too.). I have to admit between that and a Fit I'm not in love with the car hoods that sort of are imvisible when you're in the driver's seat. I'm so used to using certain markers on my hood to gauge how far/close I am to objects, the road, etc. I'm probably going to be going to look at a former fleet service Chevy Sonic in a few days (Not rental, from what I can tell. Is there an official thread stance on fleet vehicles? Earlier poster seemed to be positive of them and there wasn't much dissent on that. This one seems low enough miles with a history of oil changes and inspections over the last few years.)
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Sep 6, 2018 00:32
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JediTalentAgent posted:I went to look at the Toyota. It looked/felt okay, but the dealer really didn't seem to have any knowledge of the structural damage comment on the Carfax other than they'd inspected it and it looked good and nothing had shown up on their Autocheck report and a third report I ran didn't seem to have info/indication,either. I believe they suggested that it might just be damage that was repaired so it would show up regardless. It felt like it ran straight and smooth. A lot peppier than I thought it'd be. I still don't know how to feel about it. They are lying. Hope that helps.
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Sep 6, 2018 01:21
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Eric the Mauve posted:They are lying. Hope that helps. Fair enough. I did like it though so that maybe gives me some better idea of how to feel towards another Yaris in the near future should I opt on a different one. I'll probably end up passing on that one but they did make some other suggestions on smaller cars they had. It's a completely different beast, but I think they might have shown me a Versa with a CVT, and that as a used car concerns me. Maybe they've gotten way better, but so many people seem really down on CVTs, either on performance or reliability, unless you've still got warranty coverage on them that even I'm hesitant on them.
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Sep 6, 2018 02:09
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CVT’s are OK in small cars with small engines, they just haven’t scaled well(up to this point, hopefully all the CVT’s that are now going into increasingly larger cars w/more powerful engines are full of magic and luck). It’s because the metal belt that transfers all the power can’t be STRONGER and at the same time f l e x i b l e enough to conform to the tapered drive cones. The new Toyota CVT uses a low ‘takeoff gear’ for initial acceleration, then goes into CVT mode, which is a good idea in terms of durability, let’s see if that’s the direction that other manufacturers go in.
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Sep 6, 2018 05:05
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JediTalentAgent posted:Fair enough. I did like it though so that maybe gives me some better idea of how to feel towards another Yaris in the near future should I opt on a different one. I would not go back to that dealer. If they're lying about knowing about structural damage, what else are they lying about? Regardless, Nissan has had tons of trouble with their CVTs in the past. If you're considering a Versa or another Nissan, it's something to look into.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:33
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JnnyThndrs posted:CVT’s are OK in small cars with small engines, they just haven’t scaled well(up to this point, hopefully all the CVT’s that are now going into increasingly larger cars w/more powerful engines are full of magic and luck). It’s because the metal belt that transfers all the power can’t be STRONGER and at the same time f l e x i b l e enough to conform to the tapered drive cones. I think Mitsubishi has something similar in their current Mirages, too, but their more recent Outlanders and final year Lancers are still using an older version (from what I can tell). When I first heard of the cars with CVTs, I'll admit, I thought they were going to be essentially a planned maintanance car transmission or cheap to fix transmission. Like the entire design was going to be built around a relatively cheap and easy planned belt replacement/repair you'd have done every 4 years/40k-50k or whenever it broke and you'd be back on the road in an afternoon for about $500-600. That was going to be the trade off for the lower cost.
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Sep 6, 2018 15:01
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opening up a transmission of any kind is never cheap. plus when people think belts they think something like a serpentine or accessory belt. the belt in a JATCO CVT is made of steel and is more like a very thick flexible cable. it's a lifetime item in the same way that a timing chain is a lifetime item - in fact it's probably most similar to a timing chain than any other component in the car. it costs like four hundred bucks.
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Sep 6, 2018 15:59
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Caught an itch there for a minute but instead of test driving a BRZ and Fiesta ST I'm reading through the long-term investing thread OP materials and just sticking with my well maintained 02 Maxima. More like BORING finance and careers a har-har.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:02
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Just think of that sweet sweet compounded interest
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Sep 6, 2018 19:42
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JediTalentAgent posted:My window since the start of Summer has gone from local (about 3 dealers) to those about 45-60 minutes out of my way (probably about 10 more), to those about 90-120 minutes out of my way. I know that doesn't seem like much to some people, but that's becomes nearly 200-250+ miles round trip, an entire day devoted to that, and between a lot of issues, I've not had the time all Summer. You're shopping for something you presumably will be keeping for more than a few years, while also being one of the larger purchases you will ever make. It's worth spending some time on. It also seems like you're shopping primarily for subcompacts, which are far less common than larger cars. A Corolla is not going to be significantly more expensive than a Yaris, won't be any harder to drive in any situation, and will probably be nicer to drive in most scenarios. So a lot more Corollas get sold compared to Yarises. If Carsalesbase.com is to be believed, since 2010 it's been falling from 40k cars per year to under 10k in 2017. In that same time period the Corolla averaged around 300k per year. In other words, Toyota sold as many Corollas in six to eight months, as they did Yarises for the entire eight year range you're looking at.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:45
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I think the Yaris has a lot poorer build quality vs the Camry too, based on the rented examples of each that I have been stuck/blessed with respectively. Edit: Corolla, but all still true.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:08
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the older yaris is such a hateful little piece of garbage, new one isn't too bad to be honest
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Sep 7, 2018 02:13
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teh_Broseph posted:Caught an itch there for a minute but instead of test driving a BRZ and Fiesta ST I'm reading through the long-term investing thread OP materials and just sticking with my well maintained 02 Maxima. More like BORING finance and careers a har-har. Gen-5-Maxima-That-Won't-Die fistbump! Mine's a 2000 and just keeps on going. I am tired of it but can't justify a new one when this one still runs so well. For funsies and extra BFC credit, go ahead and set up an automated draft of what your payment *would* have been and stick it in a high yield savings account (like Ally). You'll get used to your eventual budget for when you do buy the next car, but when you get to that point you'll have a big chunk of it saved already.
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Sep 7, 2018 04:40
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Fair enough. A few coworkers have suggested going up to a Corolla. But what I've been looking for has been fluctuating so much since I started putting out some feelers about a year ago. For example, about a year ago I was looking for just a small light duty pick-up. Those were on my radar for a long time then I decided I was maybe looking more for a van. Then that became looking at things like 6cyl. sedans. Some of the smaller 4cyl. SUV-styled things. As time has kept moving on I found myself just figuring, "For all that I actually do, I might as well find a hatchback or something small. I'm already driving an old 4cyl, anyway." The crazy thing is that I MIGHT end up coming back around to the truck because at least with the truck I know I'll always get the utility out of it when I need it or a van/larger sedan because there's going to be some point when I'm going to actually have to load more than 2-3 people in a car with me. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 05:33
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You could always get something like the new Tiguan, with its weird little 3rd row. Or a Soul/Niro, depending on how much stow space you need. You could be that weird SUV guy whose rear seats are always folded down for max storage space Hey, weird question time. I was chatting with a coworker because he's at the point in his car ownership cycle where he starts thinking about trading up. Now, he said he just gives his car a quick vacuum and cleanout on the inside when he goes to do the trade in. He's not a slob and doesn't have kids, so he doesn't have to worry about 3 month old Burger wrappers or projectile puke on the interior. I thought it was weird he doesnt get a quick detail job or at least a car wash and surface wipedown, but his point of view is that the dealer's going to see through the shiny washjob and mark your car down anyway, so that's like $80 bucks he doesn't flush down the toilet. Maybe the detail job is more for private sellers? FilthyImp fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 06:07
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FilthyImp posted:You could always get something like the new Tiguan, with its weird little 3rd row. Or a Soul/Niro, depending on how much stow space you need. You could be that weird SUV guy whose rear seats are always folded down for max storage space I was looking at the Soul, I think, but I could never get around to getting a good in-person look. Oddly enough, as unpopular as they are, I did think a few HHRs I tried felt like a were nice fits, but the gas mileage really didn't seem that good and I think the prices were a wee bit on the high side. I could probably live with them being older, out of production and bit higher mileages if the price felt right. But the batteries and the door handles seem to be a real weak point on them, too. edit: yeah, this is as good a place as any I guess to bring up a rant on the HHR and the PT Cruiser. The PT Cruiser and the HHR aren't that much different in size when you put them next to one another, so I don't know why people look normal sitting in an HHR and look out of proportion and giagantic in the PT. I keep thinking those cars are both physically in a bad goldilocks zone. Discounting anything mechanical with the cars: The PT Cruiser needed to be a bit larger, to be maybe a little smaller than a Grand Caravan. It seems like it needs a more physical presence. The HHR feels like it actually needed to be a smaller. Shave about a foot off that thing it it seems like it would have had a bit of a more fun design to it. JediTalentAgent fucked around with this message at 06:36 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 06:26
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JediTalentAgent posted:Fair enough. A few coworkers have suggested going up to a Corolla. you are hard core putting the cart before the horse here because you have no idea what you need and want figure out what your use cases are and what meets your needs, THEN shop for cars
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Sep 7, 2018 12:33
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If I'm emailing a dealership for a quote, should I negotiate based on the list price or the OTD price? Does it make a difference as far as the dealer is concerned? (i.e. are they more likely to bump up the "dealership fees" if I talk about list price vs. asking to discuss the final cost?)
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Sep 7, 2018 15:14
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If you negotiate just the list price fully expect for them to tack on some paint protection, nitrogen filled tires, and other nonsense once you arrive.
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Sep 7, 2018 15:21
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:If you negotiate just the list price fully expect for them to tack on some paint protection, nitrogen filled tires, and other nonsense once you arrive. don't worry they'll do this no matter what
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Sep 7, 2018 16:13
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:don't worry they'll do this no matter what This. The sales guy won't talk about it, but once you hit that F&I office, prepare for a lot of bullshit. I always talk OTD price, and have it broken down (MSRP, dealer discount, incentives, tax, title, service fee).
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Sep 7, 2018 17:00
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Auron posted:This. The sales guy won't talk about it, but once you hit that F&I office, prepare for a lot of bullshit. I do the same. I think it’s all in how you present yourself. Generally I’ve had the last 6 or so car purchases go smoothly by being very direct - “I want this car, these options, I’m ready to buy when the car is on the lot. What’s the final price?”
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Sep 7, 2018 17:58
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I do the same. I think it’s all in how you present yourself. Generally I’ve had the last 6 or so car purchases go smoothly by being very direct - “I want this car, these options, I’m ready to buy when the car is on the lot. What’s the final price?” I'm finding it really really hard to get results doing this. New car dealerships are the laziest bunch of mouthbreathers on the planet. Even making repeated phone calls and emails, I still haven't gotten any offer at all from a good half of the dealerships I've contacted. I'm starting to wonder if dealerships give a poo poo about people they're very unlikely to fleece.
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Sep 7, 2018 18:13
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saintonan posted:I'm finding it really really hard to get results doing this. New car dealerships are the laziest bunch of mouthbreathers on the planet. Even making repeated phone calls and emails, I still haven't gotten any offer at all from a good half of the dealerships I've contacted. I'm starting to wonder if dealerships give a poo poo about people they're very unlikely to fleece. People on the phone aren't serious buyers to them and they're not going to waste their time with you, just to have you take their price to the next dealer and ask them to beat it. I've bought 10 or 11 cars from dealerships so far in my life. Never dealt with the internet department or emailed or called. I do my homework on what a fair price for the car is, arrange my own financing in advance and I go down and offer to buy the car at my price. They either say yes or no. If yes I buy the car. If no I give them my number and say "if you change your mind give me a call" You should be able to figure out the price of the car, figure the taxes and fees in your location, standard dealer doc fees, and everything else and have a ballpark OTD price already in your head if you do your homework. Also go in with a fair offer, dealers don't exist to sell cars for no profit. Unprofitable customers aren't worth dealing with.
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Sep 7, 2018 19:10
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skipdogg posted:Never dealt with the internet department or emailed. Good god man.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:03
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The dealership system is an archaic holdover from the roaring 20s. It's tyool 2018, dealership unions need to be destroyed so manufacturers can sell direct to consumers
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Sep 7, 2018 20:15
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Too bad car dealers run state government.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:15
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SciFiDownBeat posted:The dealership system is an archaic holdover from the roaring 20s. It's tyool 2018, dealership unions need to be destroyed so manufacturers can sell direct to consumers If it's any consolation dealerships are haven't problems replenishing their sales force with millennials because they realize how lovely the jobs is. https://www.wsj.com/articles/auto-dealers-struggle-to-recruit-retain-younger-workers-1535016600
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Sep 7, 2018 20:37
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The large manufacturers have no interest in selling direct to consumers. It's not part of their business model. Before some says "but Tesla" the large manufacturers each sell more cars in the US in 2 months than Tesla has ever. Ford sold appx 390,000 vehicles in July and Aug of 2018. Tesla in 15 years hasn't sold 390,000 cars. They might be getting close though. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 21:00
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