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You the one in University district? Cuz I’m bout to come over and do projects!
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Sep 24, 2018 02:11
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Hypnolobster posted:If you need one router, you actually need a minimum of 3. Nearly universal truth in power tool woodworking. Dedicated table, motor with a plunge and fixed base and a 1/4" trim. Bonus points for the trim having a plunge base too. Trim routers do not need plunge bases. A real laminate trim router is going to have 4 different bases, none of which is a plunge. Standard, tilt, offset for getting into tight corners, and a 4th one with a weird fence built onto it for copy cuts, I think. I've got a Bosch one and it's a piece of poo poo. I sent back a lesser piece of poo poo DeWalt expecting Bosch could do better. Back in the day Stanley made routers. Good ones.This was before plunge routers. They had one in a steel case that had a 2 1/4" spiral bit and a housing it could slot into for planing and beveling doors. You'll see them occasionally still at garage sales, pawn shops. :themoreyouknow:
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Sep 24, 2018 02:54
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Hypnolobster posted:If you need one router, you actually need a minimum of 3. Nearly universal truth in power tool woodworking. Dedicated table, motor with a plunge and fixed base and a 1/4" trim. Bonus points for the trim having a plunge base too. I LOVE my 1/4" trim router. Even more than my full size.
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Sep 24, 2018 03:10
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Ok, these are all good and true (especially the router from personal experience) but the person saying their wife said they could spend $2-300 on a new power tool and not knowing they wanted a miter saw probably doesn't need the sliding capacity. Someday? Maybe. For now and a while, doubt it Then buying a miter saw is not the best choice. Again, buy once cry once.
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Sep 24, 2018 03:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:Back in the day Stanley made routers. Good ones.This was before plunge routers. They had one in a steel case that had a 2 1/4" spiral bit and a housing it could slot into for planing and beveling doors. You'll see them occasionally still at garage sales, pawn shops. :themoreyouknow: And yeah, you can’t ever have too many routers. Even lovely routers are good for something and are still usually pretty good at doing what they’re supposed to do.
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Sep 24, 2018 03:20
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Hasselblad posted:Then buying a miter saw is not the best choice. Again, buy once cry once.
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Sep 24, 2018 04:04
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Slugworth posted:On the rare occasion he'll need to make accurate 6"+ cuts, he can use a speed square and a buzzsaw. Honestly, most of your bigger cuts will be lumber/rough carpentry, where the "flip it over and cut it again" trick is perfectly fine anyway. I've never once regretted not going with a slider. Agree to disagree. If I had a set amount of cash to outlay, I personally would opt for a more complete and long term tool than one that is virtually crippled that may be OK for the short term. I get that you specifically have never regretted not having a slide, but many have. Myself included. Besides, just as the argument could be made that you could use tricks to get past limitations, you could say the same about getting an upper end circular saw with guides. In fact that is probably what I would advise the above guy focus on. Circular Saw, then Table Saw then Sliding Miter Saw.
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Sep 24, 2018 05:18
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Hasselblad posted:Agree to disagree. If I had a set amount of cash to outlay, I personally would opt for a more complete and long term tool than one that is virtually crippled that may be OK for the short term. I get that you specifically have never regretted not having a slide, but many have. Myself included. The idea that a miter saw that isn't a slide saw is "virtually crippled" is absurd. People used them for decades before the sliding saw was even available, since it only came out in the late 1980s. As with all tools, everything depends on what you want to actually accomplish with your tool. If you will not be doing projects where you need to cut 8"+ lumber, then you'll never actually use the sliding feature you paid for, and you'll have a larger, heavier, bulkier tool as well. Moreover, since you're buying a larger, more complicated tool, you'll have to get lower quality to stay within that $200 budget than if you went with a simpler tool, yeah? quote:Besides, just as the argument could be made that you could use tricks to get past limitations, you could say the same about getting an upper end circular saw with guides. In fact that is probably what I would advise the above guy focus on. Circular Saw, then Table Saw then Sliding Miter Saw. Recommending a circular saw with guides is actually useful, though. It of course again depends on exactly what you want to accomplish, how much room you have, etc. but I think I agree that a circular saw is very useful anyway, and getting guides is a cheap and very nice upgrade for your circular saw. I do love the convenience of having my miter saw ready to make cuts on a moment's notice with 30 seconds of setup at most, though. Anything involving sawhorses I have to pull the car out of the driveway and set up out there, which is a lot less convenient. For a $200 investment - not much more than folks in here suggest for a single hand plane - a normal miter saw is a reasonable nice upgrade to the woodshop.
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Sep 24, 2018 05:37
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I do already have a circular saw, which has been really useful but is obviously limited in the tasks to which it’s really suited. I used it to cut replacement planks when fixing my deck at the beginning of the summer, including beveling them, and to build this garden bench: https://imgur.com/gallery/LMIIEHu Also a workbench, but I don’t have a photo of it.
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Sep 24, 2018 10:55
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Hasselblad posted:Agree to disagree. If I had a set amount of cash to outlay, I personally would opt for a more complete and long term tool than one that is virtually crippled that may be OK for the short term. I get that you specifically have never regretted not having a slide, but many have. Myself included.
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Sep 24, 2018 12:57
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Leperflesh posted:The idea that a miter saw that isn't a slide saw is "virtually crippled" is absurd. People used them for decades before the sliding saw was even available, since it only came out in the late 1980s. Rockwell came out with a slide saw in the 70's with a skilsaw blade if not before, but it was never as accurate as a miter saw. It was a huge tool that had a built-on stand on wheels and a rotating table- pretty nifty.They also came up with the original 8" electric miter box saw, which had a cast steel base and revolutionized the whole dang deal. That was my first (non-serious) index finger nick after about a month on the job. This has been Monday morning  
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Sep 24, 2018 15:34
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Feenix posted:You the one in University district? Cuz I’m bout to come over and do projects! Yup, I put a keypad lock on it to make it easier for people to come by. As long as people bring their own wood and help clean up, I am fine with them using it.
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Sep 24, 2018 15:39
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Leperflesh posted:The idea that a miter saw that isn't a slide saw is "virtually crippled" is absurd. People used them for decades before the sliding saw was even available, since it only came out in the late 1980s. Pretty much my opinion. The only sliding 10 inch in their price range is a 299 ryobi lol
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Sep 24, 2018 15:41
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What to do with an old busted bandsaw blade? I can't bring myself to just pitch it.
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Sep 24, 2018 15:42
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DevNull posted:Yup, I put a keypad lock on it to make it easier for people to come by. As long as people bring their own wood and help clean up, I am fine with them using it. Holy poo poo I was kidding but that sure is sporting of you! Anyway, jokes aside, it looks loving great!
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Sep 24, 2018 15:59
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DevNull posted:My shop is coming along nicely. Just needs insulation and drywall. Then I have to build a bench. Dang man, that's looking fantastic. It's going to be so nice to have a dedicated space for a workshop. I would love to take over the garage fully, but It's sure nice to have a warm dry car in the winter time for the family. And University District in the Seattle area?
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Sep 24, 2018 16:06
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Falco posted:And University District in the Seattle area? Yup, close to 50th and Roosevelt. We got lucky as hell with the house. I was looking forward to have a basement to work in, but then ended up with a half built shop! It is an expensive workshop, but will be worth it.
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Sep 24, 2018 16:15
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Leperflesh posted:Recommending a circular saw with guides is actually useful, though. It of course again depends on exactly what you want to accomplish, how much room you have, etc. but I think I agree that a circular saw is very useful anyway, and getting guides is a cheap and very nice upgrade for your circular saw. On this note, can anyone recommend a good circular saw guide? Bonus points if it fits a jigsaw as well and can do circle cuts.
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Sep 24, 2018 16:19
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DevNull posted:Yup, close to 50th and Roosevelt. We got lucky as hell with the house. I was looking forward to have a basement to work in, but then ended up with a half built shop! It is an expensive workshop, but will be worth it. Gotcha, we are up in Mountlake Terrace because of the crazy pricing. We were renting in the Viewridge/Bryant area, not far from you before buying our place. We'll it's looking awesome.
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Sep 24, 2018 16:49
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Seattle Woodworking gooons Repre-loving-sent! 
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Sep 24, 2018 17:28
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Bad Munki posted:What to do with an old busted bandsaw blade? I can't bring myself to just pitch it.
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Sep 24, 2018 17:58
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Feenix posted:Seattle Woodworking gooons Repre-loving-sent! Yeah checking in as well, although I haven't done a lot recently other than make some shelves for my house. On an actually related note since one of my upcoming builds is shop furniture and miter saws - David Picciuto (Make Something) and Marc Spagnulo (Wood Whisperer) both apparently just did a thing about replacing a miter saw station backfence with just pair of sliding stop blocks in T-track instead, which is pretty neat since you end up with a large flat surface on either side instead of 'losing' a bunch of space behind the fence.
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Sep 24, 2018 18:03
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Falcon2001 posted:Yeah checking in as well, although I haven't done a lot recently other than make some shelves for my house. That is prime storage space, peg boards, cabinets, shelving, tool storage.
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Sep 24, 2018 18:10
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Bob Clagett from ILTMS just surrounded his miter saw with cabinets and drawers
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Sep 24, 2018 18:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If it is wide enough (like 3/“4) and stiff enough, you can cut them up and grind the teeth off to make scratch stocks and tiny scrapers and stuff. They’re good steel. As a newbie that mostly sticks with power tools, I had to google this real quick and found a great video: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2008/07/31/how-to-make-a-scratch-stock Hot dang, that is cool. I know my parents have tons of old saws laying around that could be used as a seemingly endless supply of stock!
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Sep 24, 2018 18:34
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Bad Munki posted:What to do with an old busted bandsaw blade? I can't bring myself to just pitch it. Cut it into six inch strips, clean them, stack them, tack them, and forge-weld them into a billet. Draw out the billet and forge a blade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7-LQLAjoZ0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eV2SVTeOHJE
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Sep 24, 2018 18:44
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I had asked this in the tool thread, but didn't get many replies. Probably more fitting here anyways. I just grabbed a new (used) dust collector and the seller didn't have any bags. Looking online I see plastic and fabric ones. Im leaning towards the fabric one since I empty my dust/shaving into brown bags paper for the city to collect, but Im worried that would allow more fine particles to escape. Thoughts? Also has anyone tried these built in Baffle Separators that go right inside your DC? https://www.busybeetools.com/products/baffle-separator-for-2hp-and-3hp.html  The DC already has a canister filter but since I'm debating moving my shop to the basement, I want to cut down on as much dust as possible so it doesn't risk getting elsewhere in the house. I'm also debating building my on baffle or cyclone but that project would be a few months away and this is a pretty cheap option if it works.
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Sep 24, 2018 18:51
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Feenix posted:Seattle Woodworking gooons Repre-loving-sent! Dunn lumber coffee and popcorn goon meetup - no we aren't buying your overpriced poo poo One time I went to city peoples to get ONE 8' 1x2 and I think it cost $8 and I laughed and left
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Sep 24, 2018 19:05
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Leperflesh posted:Cut it into six inch strips, clean them, stack them, tack them, and forge-weld them into a billet. Draw out the billet and forge a blade. I'm not sure how well that would work, it's a bi-metal blade. But I know next to nothing about metal working.
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Sep 24, 2018 19:31
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Dunn lumber coffee and popcorn goon meetup - no we aren't buying your overpriced poo poo So I do a lot of stuff at Rockler. I got all (and cut to spec) my headboard poo poo there. The last piece i needed was Red Oak 2x4 and all they had was 3/4 thick and then some monstrously thick poo poo I'd have had to rip, crosscut, and then plane the poo poo out of. So.. basically, shop time. I got all excited when I found Limback Lumber in ballard. They have red oak 2x6. They say they can rip it to 4 for 5 bucks. I hurry down monday. Total price for that one board... 120 dollars after tax. It was like 7 feet long, but still... sticker shock like a motherfucker.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:06
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Ben Nerevarine posted:On this note, can anyone recommend a good circular saw guide? Bonus points if it fits a jigsaw as well and can do circle cuts. I have these two from Kreg. Not sure if you could really use them for a jigsaw and they're definitely only good for making accurate, square cuts but they're really good at that. Since I have two circ saws (an old corded Craftsman and a new 20v Porter Cable), I just leave the corded one set up with the rip cut exclusively. I don't know why so many people itt seem so adamant that the only miter saws worth getting are sliders since I can't remember the last time I've had to make a miter cut (let alone a compound one) on anything that my 10" static one couldn't handle. Would a slider be handy occasionally? Sure. But they take up more space, don't store as neatly (I have no dedicated workshop space so portability is a key feature for me), and are more complex and thus more finicky.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:14
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Bad Munki posted:I'm not sure how well that would work, it's a bi-metal blade. But I know next to nothing about metal working. Depends on what the metals are. With pattern welding (what people usually call "damascus" although that isn't technically correct) you laminate multiple different metals together. Traditionally a high-carbon and a low-carbon steel, because in the early days of steel production the carbon content of each smelt varied greatly, so that you wound up with small amounts of several different steels; welding them together in laminations and then working that into a tool gave you a combination of hardness/edge retention (the high carbon stuff) and toughness/workability (the low-carbon content stuff). These days a lot of "damascus" is made with a nickel or nickel-steel alloy combined with a carbon steel alloy. Mostly the nickel is there to give a contrasting color. So... I have no idea what your bimetal bandsaw blades are made of, and as Chandler found in the middle video I didn't link that followed the first one, in which his billet failed; if it's an air-hardening steel that can make it very difficult to work with. And forge-welding your own damascus is hardly a beginner's project for a blacksmith! But it's definitely a Thing People Do, and otherwise I think what you have is basically scrap steel. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 24, 2018 |
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Sep 24, 2018 20:20
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Feenix posted:So I do a lot of stuff at Rockler. I got all (and cut to spec) my headboard poo poo there. I have yet to go to either of them, but Crosscut Hardwoods down in the Industrial District area, and Martin lumber up in Everett are supposed to be pretty good. You could always call them on their pricing.
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Sep 24, 2018 20:38
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Falco posted:I have yet to go to either of them, but Crosscut Hardwoods down in the Industrial District area, and Martin lumber up in Everett are supposed to be pretty good. You could always call them on their pricing. I van verify that the Crosscut Hardwoods in Portland owns, at least.
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Sep 24, 2018 21:01
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Falco posted:I have yet to go to either of them, but Crosscut Hardwoods down in the Industrial District area, and Martin lumber up in Everett are supposed to be pretty good. You could always call them on their pricing. This is good to know. I'm going to be broke from building the shop, so good deals on lumber will be needed.
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Sep 24, 2018 21:04
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Falco posted:I have yet to go to either of them, but Crosscut Hardwoods down in the Industrial District area, and Martin lumber up in Everett are supposed to be pretty good. You could always call them on their pricing. Oh yeah, totally. I just never thought to even think that one board would be that bad. Noted for the future. 
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Sep 24, 2018 21:08
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Feenix posted:So I do a lot of stuff at Rockler. I got all (and cut to spec) my headboard poo poo there. Im confused are you saying a 7ft x 6in x 2in (thick) that they cut to 7ft x 4in x 2in? Is Red Oak not a common wood in PNW or something?
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Sep 24, 2018 21:51
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Anyone happen to know what causes this seam in my buffed finish? There are several of these seams in the finish, some of them forming small patches and some of them long stretches like this. This thing has been painted with 3 coats of alkyd paint, then coated with 5 coats of polyurethane (3 thick, 2 thin).  My only guesses are these two: 1) I didn't wait long enough before buffing and so coats 4 and 5 didn't have time to properly fuse. I only waited about 40 hours after the last coat of poly before buffing. 2) I somehow burned through all the coats of poly and hit the paint, and I partially ended up buffing the paint instead. edit: oh and the reason it has both paint and poly is because there's acrylic artwork on the paint. edit2: okay I was curious so I sanded one of the smaller patches with 600 and it grew into a really big patch. the patch wasn't bleeding paint, so I'm guessing something along the lines of option 1 is happening. I guess I could work through the entire finish and cut down to poly coat number 4 entirely, or put on more coats of poly and wait a much longer this time around? I kinda forgot you aren't supposed to start buffing until after a long while Minorkos fucked around with this message at 22:09 on Sep 24, 2018 |
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Sep 24, 2018 21:54
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JEEVES420 posted:Im confused are you saying a 7ft x 6in x 2in (thick) that they cut to 7ft x 4in x 2in? Is Red Oak not a common wood in PNW or something? 
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Sep 24, 2018 22:04
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JEEVES420 posted:Im confused are you saying a 7ft x 6in x 2in (thick) that they cut to 7ft x 4in x 2in? Is Red Oak not a common wood in PNW or something? I guess. It was certainly more than I was expecting to pay by a factor of 10. But that’s likely just my own ignorance. No complaints, just surprise.
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Sep 24, 2018 22:31
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