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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Welp I looked into weathering without an airbrush and bought some weathering powders... Then before they got here I bought an airbrush. Use both!
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Sep 26, 2018 09:35
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ijyt posted:Use both!
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Sep 26, 2018 10:19
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Scharnhorst issue 60 We continue second planking the belt armour in the middle of the ship We also test fit the barrels in the last main gun. Below all 3 turrets are pictured, as you an see, each a little bit different than the other. 
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Sep 26, 2018 13:25
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ijyt posted:Use both! Oh, I did, I just originally intended to try the weathering powders in combination with washes instead of an airbrush. The airbrush is substantially easier to use than I thought it would be, the hardest part is just keeping it clean but I've already gotten a lot better at that. It took me about 3 hours to do this car because I was paranoid about overdoing it and so I took it very slowly. I imagine I could do it a lot faster with a bit more practice which is good because I have 38 more cars to do, plus like 7 locomotives.
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Sep 26, 2018 14:29
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Have some more progress pics on the Chieftains, going to wash and highlight the details next then probably matt and weather I think.  
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Sep 26, 2018 19:56
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 Applied the decals without a gloss coat. I like to live dangerously.
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Sep 27, 2018 06:45
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Little more done on the bike. Steps 14, 15, and 16 finished.   Little bit more to do on the front end, then it's on to the bodywork.
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Sep 27, 2018 16:18
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I finished weathering a second car and took them down to the model railroad club layout to see how they look under the lighting. I'm pretty happy with the results.
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Sep 28, 2018 22:17
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The lettering fade looks great.
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Sep 28, 2018 23:38
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Boomer The Cannon posted:The lettering fade looks great. That was one of the most obvious effects in the reference photos I used. The rust streaks don't match the photos but I like how they look.
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Sep 29, 2018 02:41
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:I finished weathering a second car and took them down to the model railroad club layout to see how they look under the lighting. I'm pretty happy with the results. One thing I've always found neat in model RR is how at normal height the trees in backgrounds don't look anything special, but when you get down track level, holy hell do they make the back scene
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Sep 29, 2018 11:48
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Pretty much finished with everything except the bodywork. Steps 16 and 17 finished up minus the front fender. Front calipers, brake lines, and steering damper.  Weather's been super humid and rainy so it's not very conducive to spray paint. Should be able to get some laid down next weekend. Shifting gears back to the truck to get that thing off the bench and into the case. Edit: Done. Whatever 
Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Sep 30, 2018 |
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Sep 30, 2018 19:09
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Not the same, I know, but thank you for that truck- it reminded me of Mooecow's milk truck restoration(s) that I had forgotten about from years ago:  https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3104932&userid=0&perpage=40&pagenumber=1
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Oct 1, 2018 00:38
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Yeah, it needs some Ferndale decals 
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Oct 1, 2018 00:58
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:...The rust streaks don't match the photos but I like how they look. I say stuff like this a lot. "That's rear end backwards but it looks cool do gently caress it."
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Oct 1, 2018 22:06
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I'm trying to locate a cheap source of flat plastic panels to build some structures for a terrain piece. Home depot has plastic wall panels, but I'm looking for something more like the plywood panels I can buy, but plastic.
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Oct 4, 2018 01:10
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How big and how cheap are you looking for? Plastruct and Evergreen make lots of sheets of plastic, or you could try to scavenge stuff (e.g. I think a lot of political campaign signs are plastic and you could probably reuse them and just paint over the text).
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Oct 4, 2018 01:23
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Avenging Dentist posted:How big and how cheap are you looking for? Plastruct and Evergreen make lots of sheets of plastic, or you could try to scavenge stuff (e.g. I think a lot of political campaign signs are plastic and you could probably reuse them and just paint over the text). Thanks, Plastruct seems to have a lot of stuff I could use and I'll check out Evergreen later.
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Oct 4, 2018 01:53
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Evergreen is loving expensive thougg, at least here in EU.
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Oct 4, 2018 07:07
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Molentik posted:Evergreen is loving expensive thougg, at least here in EU.
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Oct 4, 2018 14:25
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If you live in the US grab some political lawn signs over the next couple months, they're almost uniformly made of coroplast 
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Oct 4, 2018 14:36
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SO I work with a dude that saw some of my builds and asked me if I'd build a kit he had laying around. I said sure, so this morning he drops off Tamiya's 1/100 Space Shuttle kit and a case of his family's small batch hot sauce as payment. Anyone ever built this thing?
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Oct 4, 2018 15:48
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Ben Nerevarine posted:If you live in the US grab some political lawn signs over the next couple months, they're almost uniformly made of coroplast Alternatively, ask candidates for signs. If you're lucky you can even score one or more of the larger 4x3 foot ones, or bigger!
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Oct 4, 2018 17:10
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EdsTeioh posted:SO I work with a dude that saw some of my builds and asked me if I'd build a kit he had laying around. I said sure, so this morning he drops off Tamiya's 1/100 Space Shuttle kit and a case of his family's small batch hot sauce as payment. Anyone ever built this thing? Just burn all the pieces and scatter them across a map of Texas and give it back to him.
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Oct 4, 2018 20:39
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The Locator posted:Just burn all the pieces and scatter them across a map of Texas and give it back to him. I knew this was coming. I was ready.
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Oct 4, 2018 21:49
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Probably will be picky about thickness, and Plastruct prices don't seem that bad. Thanks. Can anyone recommend a vendor of 1:144 to 1:160 scenery pieces? I'm looking primarily for railings, armored doors, and industrial fittings.
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Oct 5, 2018 00:53
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Scalelink has a lot: https://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Scale_1_152_160__N____Echelle_1_160__N_-p1.html
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Oct 5, 2018 02:04
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wdarkk posted:Probably will be picky about thickness, and Plastruct prices don't seem that bad. Thanks. You might want to check McMaster-Carr, too. They aren't as cheap as free political signs, but are probably going to be a lot cheaper than any model supply store. https://www.mcmaster.com/polystyrene-sheets
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Oct 5, 2018 19:39
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Do Plastruct or Evergreen sell "grab bags" of mismatched or damaged product at all? Would be a perfect sell for people looking for material for "junked" scenes. One of the model brass companies sell grab bags of their brass sheet/rod/tubing/etc, and it's a ridiculously good value. It's something like $10 for a bag of random pieces, that if you had to buy them new and separately would be worth something like $500.
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Oct 5, 2018 21:25
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Do Plastruct or Evergreen sell "grab bags" of mismatched or damaged product at all? Would be a perfect sell for people looking for material for "junked" scenes. I don't know if it's "damaged" or how much of a discount you get, but I have a bag of miscellany from Evergreen that I bought years ago and which has lots of little bits of whatever.
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Oct 5, 2018 21:28
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And here's the Alfa done minus decals.   I've got the white basecoat down on the bike bodywork, but I'm waiting on the local hobby joint to restock so I can get a can of pearl clear. I'll get that on, give it a couple days, mask it off and then hit it with the blue. Couple days after that, I'll start on decals there. Now what else is in the closet...
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Oct 6, 2018 01:42
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Do Plastruct or Evergreen sell "grab bags" of mismatched or damaged product at all? Would be a perfect sell for people looking for material for "junked" scenes. Do you recall which one that is? It sounds like a very useful thing to have on hand.
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Oct 6, 2018 02:17
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Fearless posted:Do you recall which one that is? It sounds like a very useful thing to have on hand. If you scroll down a bit on the following link, it's the package with the blue label that says "Sizes & Shapes". http://www.ksmetals.com/accessories.html
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Oct 6, 2018 05:15
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you scroll down a bit on the following link, it's the package with the blue label that says "Sizes & Shapes". That's perfect, thank you. When I was still playing Warhammer regularly, I picked up a bag of assorted bits for conversions and kitbashes. One of the most useful purchases I ever made in that hobby, and I bet the same could be said here.
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Oct 6, 2018 05:32
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Started to work on the weathering to the lower hulls of the Cheiftains tonight. Quite happy with how they are coming out so far. Let me know what you think. 
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Oct 6, 2018 23:42
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So, Revell has finally re-released its 1/72 He 177. Talking with my comic store guy, he said he can order it, but he has no idea when it will show up, as things are still chaotic. e: https://twitter.com/TKvirtualworld/status/1032810236615176197 Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Oct 7, 2018 |
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Oct 7, 2018 03:27
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I've been quietly puttering away on the Bluenose over the past month. Starting about two months ago, I made a conscious decision to deviate a little bit from the historical record on this model-- normally, I'd be doing a shitload of research to make sure that everything was exactly as it was supposed to be to represent this schooner at a specific point in her career. I've opted to go in a different direction, but one that is really rewarding and that I am enjoying immensely. I was born and grew up in Nova Scotia and part of my family has been in the province since the middle of the eighteenth century-- apparently, they were Jacobites chased out of Scotland during the first rounds of the Highland Clearances. So a sense of place and heritage was a pretty big part of my formative experience, mainly through stories and history imparted by my parents and grandparents. Bluenose, famous as she is, was something that I became aware of at a very young age and I remember daydreaming in elementary school about what it would be like to be on her deck as she heeled under a full press of sail. So what I've been doing with this model is bringing to reality what I imagined she'd look like as a boy.   I made four sets of five chainplates and deadeyes. These are the vertical straps with three-eyed wooden blocks on the top featured in the above images and their purpose is to provide anchoring points for the shrouds. These are lines that run up the masts of the vessel and provide a lot of structural support. These were made from strips of brass, mild steel wire and wooden components. On a lot of models, these are installed over the railing of the ship, but in reality they actually cut through these rails. I preferred the more authentic look and so that is what I opted to do. It was nerve wracking but worth it. In the second picture, also visible are some wooden blocks added in the rail gap. These are in place to allow dories being raised alongside the hull to skid over them, rather than getting caught on the rail edge and dumping their contents into the sea or onto the deck. Also visible in this photo is the large, white boom crutch that supports the forward jumbo boom (a long wooden spar that runs horizontally near the base of the foremast and which stiffens the bottom edge of the main staysail). It also houses some of the gearing that would connect the windlass further forward with a hoisting engine. I will not be installing most of this machinery as it was typically removed when racing, as were the anchors, dories and a number of other things.  This is the bowsprit, a spar that projects from the front of the ship and provides additional support for the forestays (lines that keep the masts from falling backwards). On Bluenose this is rather oddly tapered-- it is actually flat on the bottom and so does not taper to the center. The ironwork up at the tip was made from brass strips that were blackened with acid rather than painted.  Another shot of the bow, with the various bits of furniture and woodwork that support the bowsprit installed. Tomorrow I intend to mark out all of the locations for eyebolts, shackles, staples and belaying pins and install these features. So right now I am running out of things to do before I start building the masts, making the sails and doing the rigging. Lots to do yet, but it's coming along well.
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Oct 7, 2018 08:18
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Hello thread. My dad told me about something this weekend which sounded interesting and having watched it, I thought you guys may find it interesting too. A television series in the UK (Channel 5) started this week called, "The Great Model Railway Challenge". In short, its Bake Off but with model railways. Three teams each week are given three days to build a model railway following a set theme. There are some rules to follow such as no more than six pre-built items are allowed (Which has already had a very creative interpretation in the first episode) and on day 2 teams have to nominate a member to tackle a scratch build challenge. For UK goons the first episode is available on My5. Worth a watch. It also has a grown man crying
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Oct 7, 2018 14:26
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Oscar Romeo Romeo posted:Hello thread. My dad told me about something this weekend which sounded interesting and having watched it, I thought you guys may find it interesting too. A television series in the UK (Channel 5) started this week called, "The Great Model Railway Challenge". In short, its Bake Off but with model railways. Three teams each week are given three days to build a model railway following a set theme. There are some rules to follow such as no more than six pre-built items are allowed (Which has already had a very creative interpretation in the first episode) and on day 2 teams have to nominate a member to tackle a scratch build challenge. For UK goons the first episode is available on My5. Worth a watch. It also has a grown man crying I really hope Rod Stewart makes a guest appearance.
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Oct 7, 2018 17:17
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Finished the weathering to the lower hulls tonight and added some cammo netting. I am pleased with it. It's still wet but when it dries it will be detailed, washed and drybrushed. Then nearly done!  
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Oct 7, 2018 22:17
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