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And that's it for the bike.  Time to blow the dust off the Coronet I started forever ago and get back rolling on that one. Nice to make some progress. Edit: I wasn't lying about the dust. Blech.  Solder headers and a resin T56 trans. Obviously need to finish up the wires there as well. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Nov 4, 2018 |
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Nov 4, 2018 21:45
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
Car engine question I want to make a air filter for my engine. Is there a easy way to do this? The car is the Vanishing point Challenger from AMT. I promised I would mostly stick to the stock kit details - but I wanted to try wiring the distributor, and then I noticed this filter thing, and then I noticed the exhaust tips were solid wedges of plastic, so I spent about a week experimenting with different materials to make better ones.... (Real engine) 
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Nov 4, 2018 22:28
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Nebakenezzer posted:Car engine question What exactly are you wanting to do with it? Of the couple scale model Six-Pack filters I've seen, they mold in the exposed pleats of the filter. I usually hit that with a white and then do the lid with the appropriate color and then a semi-gloss black for the bottom flange. Can you get a picture of the kit filter? Also, be aware that the actual "star" cars in the movie were NOT Six-Pack cars. They were 440s, but they were Magnums (single four-barrel) and not Six-Packs (three two-barrels). I think a couple camera and stunt cars had 383s, but that's a bit whatever. Got the bike in the case along with its friends:  The Doctor is in.
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Nov 4, 2018 23:10
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SocketWrench posted:I dunno, don't go to a Lego convention and mention Lepin. If you manage to survive it will be just barely. Is Lepin the straight up IP theft company that just brick for brick rips off lego and undercuts them by 1/2?
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Nov 5, 2018 07:59
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Blistex posted:Is Lepin the straight up IP theft company that just brick for brick rips off lego and undercuts them by 1/2? Unfortunately, I get the feeling that this is the sort of shenanigans that happen when you start producing your products in China.
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Nov 5, 2018 20:32
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What exactly are you wanting to do with it? Of the couple scale model Six-Pack filters I've seen, they mold in the exposed pleats of the filter. I usually hit that with a white and then do the lid with the appropriate color and then a semi-gloss black for the bottom flange. Can you get a picture of the kit filter? Also, be aware that the actual "star" cars in the movie were NOT Six-Pack cars. They were 440s, but they were Magnums (single four-barrel) and not Six-Packs (three two-barrels). I think a couple camera and stunt cars had 383s, but that's a bit whatever. Quoting myself to correct myself. I said above that the exposed filter media was molded in to the Six-Packs that I've seen. Well, the Cuda and Challenger in the picture in that post both have 340 Six-Packs and neither has the filter media molded. I got them mixed up in my head with air filters from different models that I've seen with the exposed pleats. From what I can tell from some image searches, that bottom flange/gasket/whatever is different between the 340s and 440s. The 340 flange covers up quite a bit of the filter all the way around whereas the 440 flange seems to be nearly flat in front and then sweeps up around the back (like in the original picture in the first post). Again, as far as scratch-building one - hard to say. Based on a picture of the box that I can find, it looks like the pleats are exposed:  But again, the car in the movie was not a Six-pack car, so if you're really going for accuracy, you'd fab up a dual snorkel Magnum air cleaner like this:  So now the question is: how 'spergy are you gonna get? 
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Nov 5, 2018 21:35
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Blistex posted:Is Lepin the straight up IP theft company that just brick for brick rips off lego and undercuts them by 1/2? Yes. They're scum.
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Nov 6, 2018 13:41
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:But again, the car in the movie was not a Six-pack car, so if you're really going for accuracy, you'd fab up a dual snorkel Magnum air cleaner like this: Thanks for the posts! It's a good point about the engines on the actual movie cars; I'd picked up that little tidbit, but forgot that different engine might equal a different carb setup. But, just by looking for images to post here, I saw a few variations on the filter in the 440 carb which gave me a new idea for making something. Now the plan is to use a paper loop, maybe with a mesh grille on it at a 45 degree angle. Weirdly, despite the whole "me bending aluminum can trimmings into Vanishing point style exhaust tips", I've decided - I actually don't care about the engine not being the right size. I mean, when I saw the movie, I just assumed Kowalski had the hemi, right? :P
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Nov 6, 2018 19:37
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Nebakenezzer posted:Thanks for the posts! It's a good point about the engines on the actual movie cars; I'd picked up that little tidbit, but forgot that different engine might equal a different carb setup. But, just by looking for images to post here, I saw a few variations on the filter in the 440 carb which gave me a new idea for making something. Now the plan is to use a paper loop, maybe with a mesh grille on it at a 45 degree angle. The crappy remake with Viggo had a Hemi car, so I guess you could make that car if you want :-p. I was going to say pick up some aluminum tubing for exhaust, but then I remembered the Challenger has those rectangular tips. If you're bending up some custom ones, don't forget to take pictures for us!
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Nov 6, 2018 21:26
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Will do. One other thing I noticed on this subject is that the Death Proof Challenger lacks the exhaust tips the OG Vanishing Point car had. Those cars had simple exhausts. Oh, and since we're on the subject: somebody with a '70 Vanishing Point Challenger just letting people take it for a test drive may be the most unrealistic bit in all of Grindhouse
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Nov 7, 2018 02:51
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 Welcome to nearly 3 hours of work. I’m loving the result once it’s finished but the decals are a pain in the butt to get sat down due to the surface shape of the pieces. It’s taking both markfit and the gf’s hairdryer to get them sat correctly. Tomorrow night will either be the engine cover or the rear wing bits decaled as I can’t do the nose cone or cockpit till I have the correct yellow and semi gloss black
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Nov 7, 2018 11:44
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I'm curious about doing some cars, but I'm worried that if I go with Japanese models they will only have right-hand drive molds, but if I go with American models, they'll be real lovely. Any advice? I looked up Tamiya (my favorite for armored vehicles), Fujimi, and Aoshima and was really underwhelmed by what I was finding. Their websites really suck for trying to look at details.
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Nov 7, 2018 18:23
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Blistex posted:Is Lepin the straight up IP theft company that just brick for brick rips off lego and undercuts them by 1/2? They are, though I can't totally find fault in it because they do a lot of retired sets Lego tossed out that resellers want 10,000% the retail price on along with their own stuff too that's priced a bit more.
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Nov 7, 2018 20:45
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SocketWrench posted:They are, though I can't totally find fault in it because they do a lot of retired sets Lego tossed out that resellers want 10,000% the retail price on along with their own stuff too that's priced a bit more. Yeah, I don't really have an issue with them copying sets that you can otherwise only get from scalpers, but they seem to just copy everything
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Nov 7, 2018 21:10
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I can't really blame them either, because at least the cheaper price can allow more kids to mess around and create things with Lego knockoffs. Lego is too expensive, and many poorer families are denied offering it to their kids. And I dont buy "all the licensing drives Lego pricing up". Lego was always overly expensive, even before they licensed anything.
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Nov 7, 2018 23:48
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ExtraNoise posted:I'm curious about doing some cars, but I'm worried that if I go with Japanese models they will only have right-hand drive molds, but if I go with American models, they'll be real lovely. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/
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Nov 8, 2018 00:34
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ExtraNoise posted:I'm curious about doing some cars, but I'm worried that if I go with Japanese models they will only have right-hand drive molds, but if I go with American models, they'll be real lovely. Tamiya overhauled their website recently and took a lot of stuff from what I can tell. It was never the best for finding specific stuff, though. Not all their stuff is RHD, you just have to look around a bit. I've done 5 cars and 6 bikes and they are joys to build. Crisp detail, pieces for together beautifully, and the instructions have all been great. Definitely pick one up if you find one you like, but be aware they can get spendy. What model cars are you looking for?
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Nov 8, 2018 01:43
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I can't really blame them either, because at least the cheaper price can allow more kids to mess around and create things with Lego knockoffs. Licensing is like a small percentage. Look at the vids of their production and research. The place is all automated with really strict quality control. People aren't even allowed to touch the bricks because skin oils will affect the plastic. Disgruntled Bovine posted:Except high levels of automation drive costs down, not up. Really wasn't the point. It was more geared at the level of quality, material, and so on that drives costs up. Add that to licensing, design, and yes, as they design new types of bricks, tooling. Lego has a lot more details that cost money than other manufacturers. Cobi is kind of the same way. They have a lot of details that cause the models to cost a bit more than a knockoff would SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Nov 10, 2018 |
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Nov 8, 2018 08:35
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Except high levels of automation drive costs down, not up. Plastic injection molding costs are mostly in tooling, but with the volume Lego produces works in their favor as well because they amortize those costs across billions of pieces. Plastic molds last a long time if properly handled and maintained.
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Nov 8, 2018 22:59
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So I was airbrushing a wing with Humbrol Enamel when the airbrush burped some thinner - I’m new at this - and I tried to wipe it off with a tissue - I’m not a smart person - so now the wing has a lovely texture on it. Can I sand off some of the paint and give it another coat to smooth it out? I’d post pictures but imgur is acting up for me.
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Nov 10, 2018 18:16
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Put some enamel thinner on a towel and just wipe the paint off. You could sand it down too, but wiping the whole wing is probably easier and quicker.
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Nov 10, 2018 18:21
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So I'm looking into scale modeling as a chill hobby that's more than just the usual passive consumption of video games/Netflix/Hulu; is there anything that's not in the OP that I should know or look into? It looks like this thread is going on 10 years soon so I image there's at least something new or out of date. Any tips for what a beginner should buy or avoid getting would also be welcomed. My plan is to start with a basic set of tools and simple aircraft models and then work up from there as I get more experience. Work space is also a consideration at the moment as I'm stationed in South Korea and currently have to live in a dorm room for a few more months before I get my next assignment.
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Nov 12, 2018 13:04
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Nah, same hobby it was in the 50s. Start with a good desk lamp, good nippers, and an exacto and work up from there. It's easy to go overboard with tools. You don't need a full set of paints or tools, just buy them as you need them. buy the smallest glue container of you can, it doesn't keep well.
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Nov 12, 2018 14:55
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Tamiya Extra Thin only comes in one kind of container, and people swear by that stuff. I still have an old tube of Testors glue for huge awful gaps in old kits.
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Nov 12, 2018 15:13
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BadOptics posted:So I'm looking into scale modeling as a chill hobby that's more than just the usual passive consumption of video games/Netflix/Hulu; is there anything that's not in the OP that I should know or look into? It looks like this thread is going on 10 years soon so I image there's at least something new or out of date. Any tips for what a beginner should buy or avoid getting would also be welcomed. As far as I know there's a lot of good gundam stores in South Korea which will be a good place to get supplies! Mr Hobby stuff is usually pretty good. There's a lot of modern snap-fit kits. Academy (a korean brand I think) has some snapfit kits that are easy builds and don't need a huge amount of work.
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Nov 12, 2018 16:51
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Did some detail work this weekend. Not super happy with the result, and I might touch up some of the hoses again with Testor “Rubber” paint, but at some point I have to move on. I’ll give it a wash with some oily black before I attach the engine inlets, mask up and pain the fuselage.
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Nov 12, 2018 17:14
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So, uh, dumb question. When it comes to buying kits online, how do you know which paints they need? So far none of the specialty websites offer a list of paints, or even a scan of the manual. I guess I could look for the manuals from the manufacturers websites (if they even do this) but  and also most scale model companies seem to aim for the worst possible, 90's looking websites. As it is now I have to order the kits, receive them, open the box and then look at the paints I need 
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Nov 12, 2018 19:33
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Scalemates.com has scans of manuals. I don't really pay too much attention to those, since the military colour palette is fairly limited. You're probably better off researching what paint scheme you want to apply and buying colours for that.
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Nov 12, 2018 19:44
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Whats the go to method for high-gloss finish? I'm seeing high gloss paints, regular paints followed up by a high gloss coat, and regular paint followed up by buffing compounds followed by high gloss coat. Picked up a Tamiya 1/20 Indy Car and want to make it look nice and glossy.
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Nov 12, 2018 20:47
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Ensign Expendable posted:Scalemates.com has scans of manuals. I don't really pay too much attention to those, since the military colour palette is fairly limited. You're probably better off researching what paint scheme you want to apply and buying colours for that. Yes, very true, for military stuff I'm set. I was more thinking about cars and bikes and other civilian stuff. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to research each model I buy.
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Nov 12, 2018 21:11
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Vaporware posted:Nah, same hobby it was in the 50s. Start with a good desk lamp, good nippers, and an exacto and work up from there. It's easy to go overboard with tools. You don't need a full set of paints or tools, just buy them as you need them. This man speaks wisdom. When I had a setup for doing wargaming minis, I had more tools, paint and assorted crap than I really needed. Since getting into building wooden boats, I have about a dozen paints, a half dozen brushes and a handful of tools: good nippers are absolutely vital (I use Xurons, but that is a matter of taste and inexpensive ones can be had for soldering/electronics that work perfectly), an exacto, some tweezers for parts too dainty for my ogrish hands and some clips to hold parts together. One of my favourite parts of this hobby is finding ways to repurpose common and inexpensive items to save money and make life a little easier. I've turned binder clips into decent planking clamps and a pair of socks and some rice into an adjustable cradle for ships.
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Nov 12, 2018 22:12
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 First Maschinen Krieger model. Turned out pretty well, I'm really pleased with the quality of the kit.  
Yooper fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Nov 13, 2018 |
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Nov 13, 2018 01:52
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Fearless posted:This man speaks wisdom. When I had a setup for doing wargaming minis, I had more tools, paint and assorted crap than I really needed. Since getting into building wooden boats, I have about a dozen paints, a half dozen brushes and a handful of tools: good nippers are absolutely vital (I use Xurons, but that is a matter of taste and inexpensive ones can be had for soldering/electronics that work perfectly), an exacto, some tweezers for parts too dainty for my ogrish hands and some clips to hold parts together. One of my favourite parts of this hobby is finding ways to repurpose common and inexpensive items to save money and make life a little easier. I've turned binder clips into decent planking clamps and a pair of socks and some rice into an adjustable cradle for ships. My low tech minis painting method is thin sewing needles stuck in a cork (the cork is superglued to a coin for weight) which I heat and push into the non visible part of the mini like an arm socket. That way I can base all my subassemblies at once. Cheap and reusable. Plus you get some sweet inhalents when you light those paint covered pins up, oh yeah.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:11
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BadOptics posted:So I'm looking into scale modeling as a chill hobby that's more than just the usual passive consumption of video games/Netflix/Hulu; is there anything that's not in the OP that I should know or look into? It looks like this thread is going on 10 years soon so I image there's at least something new or out of date. Any tips for what a beginner should buy or avoid getting would also be welcomed. There is a really nice one (or two) model shops that were along the row of clubs outside Camp Casey (if that's where you're stationed). But like was already said, Korea is pretty good for model shops everywhere. Looking around elementary/public schools is usually a safe bet since they like to set up close to their preferred clientèle.
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Nov 13, 2018 03:33
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Symetrique posted:Put some enamel thinner on a towel and just wipe the paint off. You could sand it down too, but wiping the whole wing is probably easier and quicker. Hey it worked!  Now to redo the pre-shading and blend into the rest of the paint. Yay!
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Nov 13, 2018 03:37
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Lizard Combatant posted:My low tech minis painting method is thin sewing needles stuck in a cork (the cork is superglued to a coin for weight) which I heat and push into the non visible part of the mini like an arm socket. That way I can base all my subassemblies at once. Cheap and reusable. Plus you get some sweet inhalents when you light those paint covered pins up, oh yeah. Testor's red tube glue is my preferred plastic glue mainly because of the smell. The taste, however, is utterly atrocious.* Truly, we do it for the inhalants. Fun fact: the glue I have been using at work for plexi and styrene is a modified form of chloroform. I think it is broadly comparable to weld-on 3 or 4 and is applied with sable brushes. It's extremely volatile, but sets rapidly. *this was discovered by accident and not through an attempt to eat glue.
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Nov 13, 2018 05:48
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Just finished this tiny guy          Overall it was cheaper, more fun to build, and more realistic than the Airfix crap-tank we all made.
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Nov 13, 2018 06:00
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Nice. 1/144?
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Nov 13, 2018 15:11
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1:100. It's technically a miniature for the Zvezda Art of Tactic game, but it's sculpted well enough to be a display model. They even put the unit flag hole on the bottom and included a U-shaped flag so it doesn't get in the way.
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Nov 13, 2018 18:05
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I'm having an issue with my airbrush that I'm fairly certain is the compressor, but wanted to see if any of you folks had a different opinion. I run a Badger Patriot 105 and a Paasche Talon with an old generic tankless hobby compressor with a moisture trap. For paint, I usually go Vallejo Model Air straight from the bottle with a drop or 2 of flow improver, or Tamiya. When I start spraying, everything is fine, coverage is great, flow is fine. After a few minutes of painting, I'll get what feels like a drop of water shooting through the brush which hits the paint and then makes a huge splat on whatever I'm painting. It's usually thin enough that I can just wipe it off and then paint over it, but the more I spray, the more often it happens. If I go in .5-1 second bursts, it doesn't happen either. This happens regardless of brush, paint (and I've used Model Master, Citadel, and Privateer Press as well), and hose which is why I'm inclined to think it's a compressor issue. I did get it secondhand and have zero clue how old it is, but on the other hand, I live in Florida, so humidity is generally around 1000%. Thoughts?
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Nov 13, 2018 18:06
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