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Falcon2001
Oct 10, 2004

Eat your hamburgers, Apollo.
Pillbug

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

It might make making the bed difficult?

The ideal height for a bedside table is the same height as the top of the mattress or maybe an inch or so lower, but not higher.

Yeah actually the more I think about it, the more crazy that sounds; don't mind me. Making the bed is going to be a pain either way, and I feel like sheets/etc are just going to knock into stuff over there.

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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Amazon black friday early sales are starting and I noticed this (DWS779) was selling for $349. According to Camel^3 this is a match of the lowest price it's been at in a year or two.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESCU5WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is just the 780 saw ($500) minus the LED / shadow guide for the blade. Read some reviews and people have either retrofit the LED setup directly for about $60 and some sautering or bought a $22 aftermarket laserguide such as this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/Oshlun-LG-M01-Miter-Portable-Laser/dp/B002PMV4UG/ref=pd_lutyp_wish_3_6


Anyone know much in particular about aftermarket laserguides like the one linked above?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
The consistent message I've heard on laser guides is that they aren't worth paying extra for. They're never going to be quite as accurate as you can get by lining things up manually, so at best they help you quickly get the piece into approximately the right position. But that's not exactly hard to do.

I have enough practice with my miter saw that I can generally get the blade within 1/16" of where I want it to be on the first try. I can't imagine that a laser guide would be much better.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


That Works posted:

Amazon black friday early sales are starting and I noticed this (DWS779) was selling for $349. According to Camel^3 this is a match of the lowest price it's been at in a year or two.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ESCU5WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is just the 780 saw ($500) minus the LED / shadow guide for the blade. Read some reviews and people have either retrofit the LED setup directly for about $60 and some sautering or bought a $22 aftermarket laserguide such as this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/Oshlun-LG-M01-Miter-Portable-Laser/dp/B002PMV4UG/ref=pd_lutyp_wish_3_6


Anyone know much in particular about aftermarket laserguides like the one linked above?
I’ve never liked laser guides because they always seem to be inaccurate/out of adjustment. We have that exact saw at work with the LED shadow guide thing and it works great with no adjustment for different blares or anything. Much better than a laser, still not quite as accurate as setting the blade on the work on your cut line.

That’s a great deal on that saw and I wouldn’t worry about it not having a guide.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

The consistent message I've heard on laser guides is that they aren't worth paying extra for. They're never going to be quite as accurate as you can get by lining things up manually, so at best they help you quickly get the piece into approximately the right position. But that's not exactly hard to do.

I have enough practice with my miter saw that I can generally get the blade within 1/16" of where I want it to be on the first try. I can't imagine that a laser guide would be much better.


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I’ve never liked laser guides because they always seem to be inaccurate/out of adjustment. We have that exact saw at work with the LED shadow guide thing and it works great with no adjustment for different blares or anything. Much better than a laser, still not quite as accurate as setting the blade on the work on your cut line.

That’s a great deal on that saw and I wouldn’t worry about it not having a guide.

Edit: Thanks both, was kinda my take as well. Laser or LED guide seemed a bit of a needless luxury as I'm not getting paid by the hour to construct stuff with this thing.

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

I have the non sliding version of that miter saw. Really wanna sell it and get that one:(

I don't bother with the laser, but I appreciate that the insert is removable like a table saw's, so I replace it and make it zero clearance. No help for beveled cuts but it's the best virtually free upgrade you can do imo.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Anyone ever used Osmo Wood Wax finish? Seems expensive but I've heard good things.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
Someone tripped the SawStop in the shop I am a member of. He had no clue why it tripped and said his hands were no where near the blade and he was using a push stick. Looking at the video he was standing on the fence side of the saw, with his right hand extremely close to the blade, and left hand using a push stick on the back of a ~24" piece hanging off the back of table.

One hell of a selling point on the safety of a SawStop that he didn't even know his hand hit the blade. I am still not a fan of them as he didn't know he was being unsafe and even after thought he did everything correctly :sigh:

lovely part is that is the second time in less than 24 hours it got tripped. First was caused by someone setting the blade to high and hitting the aluminum T track on top of a cross cut sled. Roughly $300 in parts in a day and a saw down for 2 days while a new stop is picked up.

Thinking about making it a clock and hanging it in the shop :v:

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




My old shop had one hanging out in a box that they showed people when they did their woodshop clearance classes

But turning it into a clock or something would be fuckin dope

And just keep adding clocks to the wall like an old timey newroom every time someone trips it




Also I can’t figure out what the gently caress you’re describing for how this dude was standing

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Sockser posted:

Also I can’t figure out what the gently caress you’re describing for how this dude was standing

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



JEEVES420 posted:

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea


What a tool.




I had to

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




JEEVES420 posted:

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea


Is

Is that a featherboard

And he’s



What the gently caress

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I went down to the tools store over Roy Underhill's shop this weekend and the guy running it had a funny story about Chris Schwarz thinking he was dumb for using a sharpie to measure the camber grind on new irons.

Also it scares the poo poo out of me any time I use a table saw without the whole kickback teeth/blade guard apparatus setup. I've had to take it off a time or two for cuts I can't remember and I feel like I'm transporting hand grenades.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

JEEVES420 posted:

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea


HAHA. Perfect saw stop commercial

Your clock idea is really cool

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read

JEEVES420 posted:

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea


Amazing, I hope he watched the footage of him 'doing everything correctly'.



Personally I sold my lovely Skil table saw this weekend and bought a low-angle jack plane.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


JEEVES420 posted:

lovely cropped picture but you get the idea

A little downward pressure on that push stick and he’ll get some nice kickback too! I chewed up the tip of my thumb doing something similar to what he’s doing and learned tiny rips should always be done on the bandsaw. Really just do all ripping on the bandsaw and nothing bad will ever happen.

Get a shaper and really weed out the idiots in a hurry.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
Band saw blades walk too much for a straight rip. Table saw is the right tool for that job just not like that.

There is a router table and routers but luckily not many people know what that table is much less how to use a router.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

Sockser posted:

My old shop had one hanging out in a box that they showed people when they did their woodshop clearance classes

But turning it into a clock or something would be fuckin dope

And just keep adding clocks to the wall like an old timey newroom every time someone trips it




Also I can’t figure out what the gently caress you’re describing for how this dude was standing

Just hang them on the wall and mark them with a sharpie when the incident happened, maybe put the name of whoever triggered it if you want to go full passive aggressive wall of shame, but I would find it interesting seeing a wall of destroyed saw blades and when they got sawstopped.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
I’m kind of tired of the mental gymnastics and tedious clampery of constantly trying to jig poo poo for using my router to ‘bowl out’ trays and stuff.

I think I want a little router table for Christmas. Any thoughts? Nothing fancy. Smaller side is better, not tons of space. Rockler has a little folding/clamp-able one.

I just need something I can fence 2 sides on (to form a corner) and then just work downwards routing out a tray/bowl shape.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

JEEVES420 posted:

One hell of a selling point on the safety of a SawStop that he didn't even know his hand hit the blade. I am still not a fan of them as he didn't know he was being unsafe and even after thought he did everything correctly :sigh:

lovely part is that is the second time in less than 24 hours it got tripped. First was caused by someone setting the blade to high and hitting the aluminum T track on top of a cross cut sled. Roughly $300 in parts in a day and a saw down for 2 days while a new stop is picked up.

Thinking about making it a clock and hanging it in the shop :v:

If it triggered from flesh contact, I believe saw stop will refund the cost of a new cartridge if you send it in for them to look at.


e: yeah
https://www.sawstop.com/support/report-a-save/

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Nov 8, 2018

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


JEEVES420 posted:

Band saw blades walk too much for a straight rip. Table saw is the right tool for that job just not like that.

There is a router table and routers but luckily not many people know what that table is much less how to use a router.
You just need a bigger bandsaw! 3/4 or 1” blades do the job-my old boss had a 38” Crescent from the 30’s that you could pretty much throw 16/4 mahogany through as fast as you could push it. Doesn’t pinch when wood moves as you rip it and much safer all around, but it does require a heftier saw and the cut has to be jointed to smooth/straighten it. It’s a little slower now that I’m working with a smaller saw, but still absolutely my preference for busting stuff up, especially thicker stock.


Feenix posted:

I’m kind of tired of the mental gymnastics and tedious clampery of constantly trying to jig poo poo for using my router to ‘bowl out’ trays and stuff.

I think I want a little router table for Christmas. Any thoughts ? Nothing fancy. Smaller side is better, not tons of space. Rockler has a little folding/clamp-able one.

I just need something I can fence 2 sides on (to form a corner) and then just work downwards routing out a tray/bowl shape.
Kreg makes a pretty decent one if you want one off the shelf but it might be bigger than you want. It’s pretty easy to roll your own if you’ve got a table saw. I built mine in half a day from half a sheet of MDF and some carriage bolts and wing nuts. It’s a clunky knock off of the kreg one without any t-track/miter slot, but it gets the job done for like $20.




You might discover either way that even with a router table, 90% of using a router is still trying to make jigs so you can use a router.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Feenix posted:

I’m kind of tired of the mental gymnastics and tedious clampery of constantly trying to jig poo poo for using my router to ‘bowl out’ trays and stuff.

I think I want a little router table for Christmas. Any thoughts? Nothing fancy. Smaller side is better, not tons of space. Rockler has a little folding/clamp-able one.

I just need something I can fence 2 sides on (to form a corner) and then just work downwards routing out a tray/bowl shape.

The filming is pretty awful on the Popular Woodworking videos but


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naMlbjHKh08

or go buy the Kreg one

Sockser fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Nov 8, 2018

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You just need a bigger bandsaw! 3/4 or 1” blades do the job-my old boss had a 38” Crescent from the 30’s that you could pretty much throw 16/4 mahogany through as fast as you could push it. Doesn’t pinch when wood moves as you rip it and much safer all around, but it does require a heftier saw and the cut has to be jointed to smooth/straighten it. It’s a little slower now that I’m working with a smaller saw, but still absolutely my preference for busting stuff up, especially thicker stock.

We have a Laguna LT18 SE (and a Delta 14 and Jet 14). I have resawn wood on it but it always goes in the planer afterwards. We are getting a 12" 3hp table saw so 16/4 can be chopped on that instead :dance:

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


JEEVES420 posted:

We have a Laguna LT18 SE (and a Delta 14 and Jet 14). I have resawn wood on it but it always goes in the planer afterwards. We are getting a 12" 3hp table saw so 16/4 can be chopped on that instead :dance:
What flavor table saw? I let a 7.5 hp Powermatic 72 for almost nothing slip away from me a few years ago and have been kicking myself since. If I had a beast table saw I would definitely use it more.

I found a decade old Laguna LT24 and it is certainly a fine saw (except the fence drives me crazy) and I was so excited about it after all the rave reviews until I realized I was going to be disappointed by every bandsaw ever after 8 years with 15 hp and 242" of blade.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

I made a door :toot: Here's the inside face, where you can see the rabbet for the glass panel. Going glass shopping on Friday with my friend who does that kind of work.

Time to go study how to hang doors.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Like this one?? (Kreg router table).
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c35/router-table-systems/p141/precision-benchtop-router-table/

And do I need to worry about whether my Ridgid will mount to it, in general?

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Feenix posted:

Like this one?? (Kreg router table).
https://www.kregtool.com/store/c35/router-table-systems/p141/precision-benchtop-router-table/

And do I need to worry about whether my Ridgid will mount to it, in general?
That's the one I'm thinking of-didn't know they were so expensive. In general, you're going to screw/bolt the base of your router to the bottom of the table, so it's pretty universal. It's not a bad idea to get a second base that lives on the the table so you don't have to unbolt it all the time.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Sometimes we does cutting boards, sometimes we does coachworks. I've been sprucing up my late wife's old Infiniti with new upholstery (hog rings, doncha hate em?), killer soundsystem- M.B. Quarts behind that grill now instead of shittybose- but the vinyl arm rests are just tatters, and who can do that poo poo? Not me. Plus that decorative bow or arc whatever it is on the panel was all scarred up on both doors.
However, I had a piece of Honduran mahogany laying around for years, so I figured this is a good place to use it. Compound laminate on the bow wasn't all that hard, but then loving hell, I had to bandsaw the door lock & window control panels to fit back. Eh, whatever. Passenger's side I had to glue in a loving dutchman (drat bosch), and I'm fine with that. Really makes that fake plastic burl look as lovely as possible. kinda wish I had another piece of mahogany..

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

That's some really nice work. I, uh...do car manufacturers still do real wood interiors? I can't remember the last time I saw anything like that in the wild.

For my part, y'all convinced me to get an Incra miter gauge, and it is really nice, except for the bit where there's not enough room for it to fit into my bandsaw table if the fence is in close. Fortunately it turns out to be really easy to make a "miter gauge" so long as you don't mind it being locked at 90 degrees. Long scrap of wood to fit into the slot in the table, short tall scrap to rest the piece against, glue and screw, then use a square to get the angle set right. Now I can cut 64 identical cubes for an upcoming Christmas gift! :shepface:

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That's some really nice work. I, uh...do car manufacturers still do real wood interiors? I can't remember the last time I saw anything like that in the wild.

God, I don't know. Maybe some of the custom very high-end ones, but I kinda doubt it. I really had no other option the way those things are manufactured.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

For my part, y'all convinced me to get an Incra miter gauge, and it is really nice, except for the bit where there's not enough room for it to fit into my bandsaw table if the fence is in close. Fortunately it turns out to be really easy to make a "miter gauge" so long as you don't mind it being locked at 90 degrees. Long scrap of wood to fit into the slot in the table, short tall scrap to rest the piece against, glue and screw, then use a square to get the angle set right. Now I can cut 64 identical cubes for an upcoming Christmas gift! :shepface:

Their stuff is top quality. You look at a picture of the miter gauge and think it's costly and it looks flimsy because of the aluminum gauge part or something, idk. Then you get it in your hands and it's the solidest, best thing ever made.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

What flavor table saw? I let a 7.5 hp Powermatic 72 for almost nothing slip away from me a few years ago and have been kicking myself since. If I had a beast table saw I would definitely use it more.

I found a decade old Laguna LT24 and it is certainly a fine saw (except the fence drives me crazy) and I was so excited about it after all the rave reviews until I realized I was going to be disappointed by every bandsaw ever after 8 years with 15 hp and 242" of blade.


We are looking at a Baileigh TS-1248P-52. Baileigh is relatively knew to the wood side but is well known in metal. From what all the old guys in the shop say Powermatics from the 70s are great machines but anything new from them is a piece of poo poo. No clue if that is just a "back in my day" :corsair: talk or if it holds true. We have a Powermatic lathe, joiner, and planer which get far more abuse than they deserve.

At what point do you stop calling it a bandsaw and just call it a lumber mill, that thing is a beast.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


JEEVES420 posted:

We are looking at a Baileigh TS-1248P-52. Baileigh is relatively knew to the wood side but is well known in metal. From what all the old guys in the shop say Powermatics from the 70s are great machines but anything new from them is a piece of poo poo. No clue if that is just a "back in my day" :corsair: talk or if it holds true. We have a Powermatic lathe, joiner, and planer which get far more abuse than they deserve.

At what point do you stop calling it a bandsaw and just call it a lumber mill, that thing is a beast.
I think a lot of the grumpy old man talk is just because it’s made in Taiwan now and more reliant on modern precision engineering instead of just more cast iron. Even a lot of the old stuff is far from perfect-I have a drill press from probably the mid 80s/early 90s that has horrible ergonomics and the fit/finish leave a lot to be desired. The old planers, table saws and tenoners are about perfect machines though.

Powermatic and Jet are owned by the same company and both come out of the same factories-Powermatic may be built to a higher tolerance or it may just be that fancy gold paint that makes it cost more. Either way, both are well manufactured in my experience. Most of what comes out of Taiwan seems to be good quality these days, though in an era of planned obsolescence probably designed and built to last a decade or two not half a century.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That's some really nice work. I, uh...do car manufacturers still do real wood interiors?

Bentleys, certainly. That particular style of "really this car should be driven by a chauffeur" type luxury vehicles, except these days ballers drive their own Bentleys anyway, so now they also have hyper performance engines inside their 4 ton behemoth luxury cars. I digress: yes, very high end luxury cars still have wood in them.

This is the interior of a brand new Continental:

And this is the Benteyga Mulliner, with "Ombré Burr Walnut veneer" trim:



At this price range, they don't put fake plastic wood in there.

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:12 on Nov 8, 2018

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Leperflesh posted:

Bentleys,...

At this price range, they don't put fake plastic wood in there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQX_EpmGtmk

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I think a lot of the grumpy old man talk is just because it’s made in Taiwan now and more reliant on modern precision engineering instead of just more cast iron. Even a lot of the old stuff is far from perfect-I have a drill press from probably the mid 80s/early 90s that has horrible ergonomics and the fit/finish leave a lot to be desired. The old planers, table saws and tenoners are about perfect machines though.

Powermatic and Jet are owned by the same company and both come out of the same factories-Powermatic may be built to a higher tolerance or it may just be that fancy gold paint that makes it cost more. Either way, both are well manufactured in my experience. Most of what comes out of Taiwan seems to be good quality these days, though in an era of planned obsolescence probably designed and built to last a decade or two not half a century.

I remember when Jet showed up, their stuff was a level below expectations, which fed the knock on Taiwanese equipment. Grizzly started out with high quality specced Taiwanese machinery in the early 80's, I think a few years after when Jet started getting a foothold here.
Grizzly took off like gangbusters because their stuff was 1/2 the cost of Delta, 1/3rd the cost of Powermatic, with equal quality and precision, and the old grumps of my generation bought in and stfu'd about Taiwan.

Blistex
Oct 30, 2003

Macho Business
Donkey Wrestler
Taiwan #1!

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
Cutting boards are pretty fun. This one is ready for the RO sander, Walnut and Maple. Next one is going to have some more intricate work but I'm not quite ready to try a 3D board.


TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
That's some sweet bookmatching there. Looks great!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


JEEVES420 posted:

Cutting boards are pretty fun. This one is ready for the RO sander, Walnut and Maple. Next one is going to have some more intricate work but I'm not quite ready to try a 3D board.



Looks great! My first though was ‘that’s some good veneer work’ and then I realized it was solid endgrain and not oyster veneer.

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
I think that technically counts as doing a 3d cutting board :psyduck:

Looks really good

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