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Phone posted:It should be bolted to a solid table and you absolutely need dust collection + hearing protection. I have dust coll. and hearing protection. The one we use at Rockler is on a rolling table/cart no wider in dimension than the planer itself. I assume that would do?
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Nov 21, 2018 18:12
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Phone posted:It should be bolted to a solid table and you absolutely need dust collection + hearing protection. For the first few years I owned my thickness planer I just hauled it outside and put it on the ground. I never noticed the tool shifting around; I'm not convinced they have to be bolted down to be safe. You still need ear/eye protection, but you can clean up with a broom afterwards. A respirator isn't a terrible idea, but planers mostly produce chips, not dust. That said, the ergonomics of a) carrying a 60-pound tool, and b) bending down to run a board through it when it's on the ground, are both pretty terrible. I'd suggest making a flip-top mobile tool cart, personally. I set mine up with my planer and my router table, so for one cart I get two tools at a reasonable elevation, they're easy to move if necessary, and I have a place to store router bits, planer blades, etc.
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Nov 21, 2018 18:19
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Phone posted:It should be bolted to a solid table and you absolutely need dust collection + hearing protection. In my experience you can put those benchtop planers on just about any surface. The floor would work fine? And the dewalt has a blower fan that shoots the chips out super hard. If you don't have dust collection they'll shoot everywhere but I think Matthias Wandel did a video where he showed that the dewalt blower actually pushes air faster than most dust collectors can suck it up which is a bit funny. Not sure if that makes any difference with the chip collection though
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Nov 21, 2018 18:21
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Squibbles posted:In my experience you can put those benchtop planers on just about any surface. The floor would work fine? And the dewalt has a blower fan that shoots the chips out super hard. If you don't have dust collection they'll shoot everywhere but I think Matthias Wandel did a video where he showed that the dewalt blower actually pushes air faster than most dust collectors can suck it up which is a bit funny. Not sure if that makes any difference with the chip collection though its so you don't need a dust collector and can use the supplied bag (or zip tie a hefty to it). It is still best to attach the planer to a surface that has some weight. It will move every time you start pushing a board through.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:03
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You definitely do not need a dust collector with that dewalt. It blows super hard and tends to make more chips than dust. Zip tieing a hefty to it would not work either, you need pretty big back with good flow. I attach a 30 foot 4 inch host to it and blow it outside, it still tends to blow the host off every once in a while with how powerful it is.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:17
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Yeah you don't necessarily need a dust collector with the dw735. I just hook mine up to a 4" flexible hose and exhaust out into my yard. You could also exhaust it into a cheap dust collector bag and be fine. Just letting itself exhaust the chips out worked better than using my 16 gallon ridgid vacuum in conjunction with the planer. Also apparently you can stack a 5% cashback deal with samsung pay with the the 15% coupon? I might buy a grizzly g0440 dust collector I've been thinking about.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:45
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If you aren't pumping the chips outside, which does work, you need something around the 1-1.5hp range to keep up. I've also forgotten to turn on my dust collector and still had it work mostly ok. I have mine bolted to a custom staked stool/table I made for it and it works really well for me.
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Nov 21, 2018 19:59
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Speaking of dust collection. We are getting one of these for the woodshop. Max. airflow (CFM) 4705 Nominal air flow capacity (CFM) 4090 
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Nov 21, 2018 20:14
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GEMorris posted:If you aren't pumping the chips outside, which does work, you need something around the 1-1.5hp range to keep up. I've also forgotten to turn on my dust collector and still had it work mostly ok. Wait, how is it better to leave the collector turned off than it is to have it running, even if when running it produces inadequate airflow? Surely inadequate is better than nothing?
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Nov 21, 2018 21:25
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That planer was just north of what I was comfortable spending without conferring with my wife. But later she was like “hey if you want that for Xmas...” but it was sold out. Oh well. Wasn’t meant to be. :/
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Nov 21, 2018 21:56
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JEEVES420 posted:Speaking of dust collection. We are getting one of these for the woodshop. Oooo that’s the good stuff.
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Nov 21, 2018 22:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Wait, how is it better to leave the collector turned off than it is to have it running, even if when running it produces inadequate airflow? Surely inadequate is better than nothing? Its not better, I'm just saying that the 735 on its own can, for the most part, get the chips into a dust collector that isn't even running. Its definitely better when both of them are working.
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Nov 22, 2018 02:09
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I way over-estimated how much shellac I would need for my last project. So, I have a bunch more than I could use before it goes bad. Rather than let it dry out on my shelf, does anyone here want to buy some shellac flakes? I've got three 1/2 pound bags of the Amber shellac from BT&C. They're totally unused, so how about $28/ea with free shipping? Throw me a PM.
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Nov 23, 2018 21:52
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I'm making a frame for a small stained glass window, which I will backlight with a strip of LEDs around the internal perimeter of the frame. I'm using red oak. I would like to let the natural color of the wood show, rather than staining it much or at all. I want the wood finish to be resistant to UV if it winds up hung somewhere with natural light, but otherwise it doesn't need to be a particularly durable or hard finish because it should not see much wear and tear... the frame will need to be taken down occasionally to change the batteries, but that will be done with some care. Also it's started raining. I'm in california, so mild weather, but I may need to finish this in the garage rather than outdoors, and I can expect moderate humidity since I want to finish it within the next couple weeks and there is a fair amount of rain forecast. Recommend me a finishing product that will show off the lovely wood, resist UV a bit, and be fairly non-awful to apply in a garage under moderate humidity conditions? I do have a respirator so I can deal with fumes.
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Nov 23, 2018 22:02
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UV resistance is a pretty specific use case for a stain that most furniture/turning/hobby woodworking doesn't have to focus on, so if that's your main concern you might want to consider something aimed at what experiences the most UV trouble: decks. Behr makes some excellent UV-averse deck stain (NOT the varnish stuff) products in a range of colors including untinted 'natural' tones that I can vouch for. It won't be sold in small quantities, though, so it depends on how much $ you want to invest in a smaller project. There may be more specialized furniture products based on UV resistance so work your google-fu; I'm just rattling off the top of my head.
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Nov 23, 2018 22:36
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ColdPie posted:I way over-estimated how much shellac I would need for my last project. So, I have a bunch more than I could use before it goes bad. Rather than let it dry out on my shelf, does anyone here want to buy some shellac flakes? I've got three 1/2 pound bags of the Amber shellac from BT&C. They're totally unused, so how about $28/ea with free shipping? Throw me a PM. Leperflesh posted:I'm making a frame for a small stained glass window, which I will backlight with a strip of LEDs around the internal perimeter of the frame. I'm using red oak. I would like to let the natural color of the wood show, rather than staining it much or at all. I want the wood finish to be resistant to UV if it winds up hung somewhere with natural light, but otherwise it doesn't need to be a particularly durable or hard finish because it should not see much wear and tear... the frame will need to be taken down occasionally to change the batteries, but that will be done with some care.
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Nov 23, 2018 23:09
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Christmas ornament, slightly hollowed out for weight. 
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Nov 24, 2018 03:49
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Made a small plate for my mum for Christmas.  Camphor laurel with beeswax finish. There is a very small check in the rim. I turned it slowly over two weeks to try and avoid cracking but I guess it wasn’t slow enough? It’s between 6 and 8mm thick. I was too scared to go any thinner. Mounting it with hot glue on a glue block worked surprisingly well.
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Nov 24, 2018 05:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You want good spar varnish. It’s expensive but Epifanes is the best for UV resistance. The Helmsman spar varnish that minwax makes that’s available at big box stores has very little UV resistance and really isn’t great, but if you don’t mind refinishing it once a year works okay. OK, sounds good. I need so little that the cost shouldn't be too bad. I'll have a chat with my wife about the possibility this frame winds up in a window. If it's definitely going on a wall away from natural light, then I won't need the UV protection and can probably go with a different product.
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Nov 24, 2018 08:45
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Dry fit of a hall table I'm working on. I think I made the frame too complicated. And this doesn't even have the panels yet! Or the top, or the drawers. Some of the joints look a bit gappy, but should close up once I clamp the thing. Everything shown is mortise-and-tenon joints; there's 42 joints by my reckoning. Still remaining to do:
Then I can do the drawers and the top after the frame is solid.
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Nov 25, 2018 21:10
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Mission style? Looks like a great start
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Nov 25, 2018 21:21
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That Works posted:Mission style? Looks like a great start Yeah, I guess it does look like the Mission style. I just googled a bunch of table designs and then modeled this in Blender.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:34
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I'm looking for some suggestions / ideas on shop lighting. I'm still moving in and it looks like the basement shop is going to have a lot of space. These are shots from each side, that's a 6 ft workbench in the 2nd photo.   So the biggest issue to me is the lighting sucks. There's only 2 ceiling lights, and they are separate single bulb fixtures at 60w.   I'd like to upgrade this somehow to be a bit better and if possible not with getting an electrician involved etc. I'm comfortable doing very very minor work (like rewiring a new light fixture in place of the previous one). I know this is more home improvement than woodworking, but I figure you all might be familiar with lighting options that make sense for a shop. Ideally it's all done with LED lights and I can put in a standing or hanging lamp or two over a few areas. Likely I will have a hanging lamp of some kind directly over my workbench for example. I'm just not at all familiar with what kind of options are possible for this and what really exists. Never shopped for this kind of thing and unsure where to really even start. If you think this would be better in another thread feel free to mention.
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Nov 26, 2018 01:39
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That Works posted:I'm looking for some suggestions / ideas on shop lighting. I'm still moving in and it looks like the basement shop is going to have a lot of space. Tear out the drop ceiling and run as much light as you want to.
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Nov 26, 2018 02:09
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My shop is lit with Costco's "fluorescent tube"-style 4' LED bulbs. There's two kinds: either you can get the ones where the fixture contains the bulbs built-in, or you can get the ones where the bulbs can be inserted into standard fluorescent tube fixtures (which you have to buy at the hardware store). I went with the latter because a) it was slightly more price-competitive, and b) I figured that in the unlikely event that a bulb burnt out it'd be easier to replace. But honestly both options work well; if you do go with the second option make sure your fixture/ballast is the right size for the bulbs (I think they're T7-equivalent). Opinions on how much light you need vary, but err on the side of more, especially if you don't have much natural light. Something like 1 fixture per 50-100 square feet should be about right. Installation is not complicated. Get this book; it lays everything out for you. The short version is you de-energize the circuit (by flipping the breaker), screw down an electrical box to a ceiling joist, run wire to that box from an existing box, use wire clamps to hold the wires to the boxes, then pigtail the new wires to the old ones, hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground (the new box also needs to have a ground wire screwed to it and joined to the ground of the wire you ran from the other box). Then install the new fixture, wire it up to the wires you ran, re-enable the breaker, and see if it worked. About all you need is the wire itself (14/2 should be fine, though if it's exposed it needs to be run in conduit or flex armor), wire clamps, metal work boxes, a wire stripper, a screwdriver, wood screws + driver (for installing the boxes), and some wire nuts. These lever-action nuts were recommended in the don't burn your house down thread awhile back as being more secure than standard wire nuts, but I've never had the chance to use 'em. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 02:21
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That Works posted:I'm looking for some suggestions / ideas on shop lighting. I would just snag 6 or so of these lights. Each kit in the link comes with 2 fixtures, so you would only need 3 kits. The lights plug into a standard socket so you could use one of those light bulb fixture outlet adapter things and then plug in a light or two into that and then link an extra led light onto the light plugged into the fixture. No electrician required. And I think the lights are discounted right now. https://www.costco.com/Feit-4'-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-2-pack.product.100410429.html
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Nov 26, 2018 04:05
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I should note that when I said earlier that I recommended one fixture per 50-100 square feet, a fixture contained 2 of the 4' LED bulbs. I don't know offhand how many lumens that is.
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Nov 26, 2018 04:20
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Thanks everybody, this gives me a lot of options to consider, exactly what I needed. I appreciate it.
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Nov 26, 2018 12:13
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Finished my hallway bench made from an American Chestnut beam pulled out of a house built in the 1780's 
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Nov 26, 2018 14:16
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Gounads posted:Finished my hallway bench made from an American Chestnut beam pulled out of a house built in the 1780's That's really cool. How do you sand it and keep all the axe/adze marks?
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Nov 26, 2018 21:32
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Small holiday gift crafts project crosspost: I really like swoopy organic designs in wood, but had never tried it myself. I'd seen someone do this type of technique on a cutting board and wanted to give it a try; a series of coasters as a gift was a low-risk way to experiment. I think it came out well! Get a couple contrasting boards, mill them to the same dimensions, tape them together. I used walnut and curly maple.  Cut them in pieces along some nicely flowing line:  Swap the pieces, and glue them back together. The thinner the kerf the better, although as long as the line isn't too crazy, it's fairly forgiving and can be cheated well enough.  Cut them again along a different curve. Have some third contrasting material ready to go, nice and thin. Mine is redheart, just under 1/16".  Use a 1/16th" rabbeting bit to open the kerf up a little, and then a flush trim bit to remove the rest of the material. Ideally, the strip you're inserting would be precisely the kerf width + the rabbet depth, so that it replaces that would precisely. I was a little shy, so the lines between the walnut and maple didn't line up QUITE perfectly. Lay your strips in there, glue it up, remove the excess material, and sand it smooth.  Cut them into squares, do some rounding over, sand, and it's ready for finish!  All in all, those 12 pieces took a few hours to make, animist of that was me figuring out exactly how I was going to do things. I could do the same in a third that time now, easily.
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Nov 27, 2018 02:26
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Bad Munki posted:Small holiday gift crafts project crosspost: I really like swoopy organic designs in wood, but had never tried it myself. I'd seen someone do this type of technique on a cutting board and wanted to give it a try; a series of coasters as a gift was a low-risk way to experiment. I think it came out well! This hasn't gotten any love yet but I'm so into this. Did that red heart inlay flex to your line easily or was there a trick to it?
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Nov 28, 2018 01:16
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Yup, the strip was just under 1/16” thick so I just put glue one one of the curved edges of the main board, being a bit generous, pressed the matching side on to spread the glue, pulled them back apart, put the red in straight, and then just pressed and clamped. It was a remarkably painless and not-fiddly process, much better than I was expecting.
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Nov 28, 2018 01:19
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Gounads posted:Finished my hallway bench made from an American Chestnut beam pulled out of a house built in the 1780's That looks great, and such an amazing find. I was telling people till I realized that only wood nerds and carpenters would give a poo poo, haha. I decided to build an exterior door. I've made three before, but none at this level, the highest before was a non windowed plywood door for a shed, and then a door with glass, but to a sun-room so the door isn't nearly as thick or air tight. This was a step up, but I was glad for the experience of the previous 3. I still need to lacquer the frame but it's currently too cold. This is part of my farmhouse renewal project here in Iceland. I didn't like the look of commercial doors or the cost, and happened upon this rough design on google and figured out how to make it with a window. This is to the basement apartment, our entry door will be similar only larger and both upper triangles will be glass. If you want to see the rest of the thread, I'm starting on the first window frame, which is made of wood. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3867076  Here is a quick animation of the various stages. The only screws in the door are to hold on the window trim, the weatherboard at the bottom that keeps rain from running in, and the hinges. The door itself is all overlaps and glue with dowel rods for the six main frame pieces. 
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Nov 28, 2018 19:44
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Nice work! I've always liked that style of barn door, and the red color looks great.
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Nov 28, 2018 19:54
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Hi I got some newb questions if that's okay. I just got interested in woodworking recently and have been banging around for a few months with dimensional lumber and thought it's time to step up to making a hardwood coffee table. I went to the local lumber store and saw some S4S red oak for 3.41 per foot for 1x6xR. I figure that's reasonable but I did some napkin math and that comes out to about $100+ for the amount of wood I'd need. Does that seem about right? Also when it comes to gluing up the panels for the tabletop, does the lumber width make any difference? I was thinking of making it 3'x3' so I figured I'd buy a 1x6" and glue 6 of 'em together. Is there any reason why I should go for some other sizes like 6,8,10 or 12" boards to make it a little cheaper?
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Nov 28, 2018 22:49
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$100 isn't outside the realm of reason for a piece of furniture; wood sadly isn't that cheap. That said, you're paying so much for your wood (~$7/board foot) primarily because it's already surfaced and jointed. If you can set up to buy rough lumber from a proper lumberyard, and then surface it yourself (or find a buddy who can surface it), then you'll get your materials substantially more cheaply -- at the cost of time and tools to surface it, of course. I think that rough red oak at my lumberyard costs around $3-4 per board foot. Another alternative is to stick to cheaper wood. Douglas fir, pine, and poplar are all fairly soft, and pine and fir both are a bit prone to splintering, but they're all relatively cheap, and if you like how they look (either natively or after staining/painting) you absolutely can make furniture out of them. Surfacing of rough lumber can be done with hand planes, or with a thickness planer and either a joiner or a router table with a straight bit and an offset fence. But if you're going by hand, then you need a workbench sufficient to hold the piece while you plane it (hand planing involves a fair amount of force and weight being thrown around). Generally, wider boards are preferred to narrower ones to limit the number of points where two boards have to meet up with each other. Those areas are harder to flatten, and if not set up properly, can allow the two pieces to move with respect to each other, creating a bumpy surface. However, wider boards are also more expensive than narrow ones. For a tabletop, while you can edge-glue boards together, ideally you'd join them with biscuits or tongue-and-groove joints. That will help keep the boards aligned. You may also want to breadboard the ends.
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Nov 28, 2018 23:18
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Wider boards also means "prime cuts" and a prettier surface. You will have nice flowing grain and less need to try and match the grains of more boards. Red Oak is a very grainy wood so might not be as noticeable. When you buy the boards lay them next to each other like you want and see how they look. $3.41 for S4S is not horrible. One thing to notice is that price is per foot, not to be confused with per board foot which you will see on rough lumber. p/BF is generally 1'x1' so a 6"x2' board is is 1 BF. As Abstraction said, you are generally paying more per foot to have them pre surfaced and squared on 4 sides. It is a trade off for beginners as you don't have to have the tools to surface it yourself but it cost a bit more upfront for the project. A lot of lumber yards (not a box store/craft store) will surface rough lumber for a a few cents p/bf, I think I paid like $.15 a bf S2S when I had a rush project. And because I have the receipt in my pocket. I just bought 13bf of 6/4 White Hard Maple at $3.57/bf, 12bf of 6/4 Cherry at $3.29/bf, and 12bf of 6/4 Black Walnut FAS at $7.71/bf. Thats $193 after tax for 27'x1'x1.5" of rough non surfaced wood.
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Nov 29, 2018 00:29
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cyxx posted:Hi I got some newb questions if that's okay. I just got interested in woodworking recently and have been banging around for a few months with dimensional lumber and thought it's time to step up to making a hardwood coffee table. In general, wider boards are going to be better because there will be fewer joints, but they're also a bit more prone to warping. Wider also tends to be more expensive than narrow. Some places charge substantially more for stuff over 8" or over 12," others just charge by the BF whatever it is.
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Nov 29, 2018 00:42
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Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it! I called the store and they confirmed that the prices were in bf (even though the tag at the bottom had a big L after the price so I thought it meant lineal feet). I'll go there this weekend and check out the boards and will decide which works the best. I do have a router and planer (I am one of those guys that buys poo poo that is currently way out of my skill and knowledge level because it's on sale), so I have more options that I thought. Are there any resources to see rough averages of wood prices? I'm from southern california so I have no idea what wood should be costing in this part of the world. I was a little antsy about buying wood because I had no idea if I was spending too much.
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Nov 29, 2018 02:15
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