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Triggerhappypilot posted:Anti fouling paint also wears out a lot faster than hull paint
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Nov 30, 2018 20:10
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Nebakenezzer posted:I think for some people the logical end-state for any interest is one-upmanship, and the rivet-counters definitely seem like that I think there's truth in that, but I think it's especially true of people willing to invest serious time actively discussing it. The people happy to trundle along in content, therapeutic mediocrity read but don't post. The people who want to get better but have other things to build their identity on post questions and maybe the odd review, then that's it. I've also found that historically oriented hobbies often attract people who are...shall we say, not exactly thrilled at the inexorable progress of time. Even the most fanatical spaceship and robbit people are way friendlier to creativity, while the train people get angry about bike paths.
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Nov 30, 2018 23:46
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Finally got back into the hobby room this morning, and well... The rust is certainly showing. Started on the keel and on the very first lap joint I got too deep on one edge and wrecked it (cutting it beyond half way). I've ordered some 5/32" yellow cedar to use to replace the keel parts and will try again, so my 'start' will be a bit delayed because of my own stupidity. Oh well! I will use the rest of the keel parts to continue working on knocking the rust off, and hopefully will only need to re-cut and replace the one piece.
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Dec 1, 2018 21:02
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The Locator posted:Finally got back into the hobby room this morning, and well... The rust is certainly showing. Started on the keel and on the very first lap joint I got too deep on one edge and wrecked it (cutting it beyond half way). I've ordered some 5/32" yellow cedar to use to replace the keel parts and will try again, so my 'start' will be a bit delayed because of my own stupidity. Oh well! My approach with the Bluenose has been to fix my foul-ups where practical, but otherwise I just roll with it and make it work, though I have been keeping an "Aww gently caress" logbook as a learning aide.
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Dec 2, 2018 00:18
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New project! Revell 1:700 Colombo Express container ship. Very impressed with the kit so far, good molding quality, good level of details for a 1:700. The instructions are probably the nicest I’ve seen - full color, sprue maps, the whole nine yards. Anyway, here’s the hull. The propeller is supposed to spin and the rudder can move, so that complicates things. The fit was close but not quite there on the keel joint, maybe I should have sanded more... anyway I laid down some Tamyia putty and primer, then sanded it down, feels pretty smooth now. The joint at the bottom of the transom was also a bit wide, so again, a drop of putty and some primer. Overall the hull almost stays together without any cement, it’s that tight. I used Tamya extra thin around the joints, and Testor Make-me-high around the bulkhead because structural integrity.  Curing the hull.  All puttied up.  Dry fitting the deck. Next time I’m putting the deck on dry while the hull dries, it took some prying to get it in there and back out. Glueing it is going to be tricky.
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Dec 2, 2018 03:19
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The Revell F-19 is the worst model kit in the world and I actively rage-quit trying to build it. It made me so upset I build 2 HG gunpla kits in the 12 hours following trying to build that sack of poo poo.
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Dec 2, 2018 03:29
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To be fair, the plane doesn't exist so... yeah.
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Dec 2, 2018 03:57
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Fearless posted:My approach with the Bluenose has been to fix my foul-ups where practical, but otherwise I just roll with it and make it work, though I have been keeping an "Aww gently caress" logbook as a learning aide. Well yea, but the keel is... sort of important.  The kit comes with two different types of keel joints. A simple keel set using a scarph joint in the bow and a simple butt joint in the stern like most kits have, and a second set using lap joints in the bow and stern, which is period correct for this particular boat. I could simply use the scarph joint set, but I want to do the correct lap joints instead. Since I cut the wood too deep, there really isn't an elegant way to fix it, and I can simply cut out a new piece from another piece of Yellow Cedar and remake it, which is what I plan to do.
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Dec 2, 2018 05:20
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Taintrunner posted:The Revell F-19 is the worst model kit in the world and I actively rage-quit trying to build it. Is it the 1:144 one? Because that one cost me quite a bit of cleaning, sanding and filling as well and even then the end result was rather mediocre. Their F-117 in that scale required a bit work too. 
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Dec 2, 2018 12:29
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Anyone gonna have 500 euros or so to spend next year? https://www.scalemates.com/kits/1172732-modelsvit-antonov-an-225-cossack
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Dec 2, 2018 16:19
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Guys I just tried Vallejo Model Air. What have I been doing all that time holy poo poo this stuff is amazing.
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Dec 2, 2018 16:31
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Jonny Nox posted:Anyone gonna have 500 euros or so to spend next year? i bet some grog is mad its not 1/32
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Dec 2, 2018 16:35
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What's the Goon-approved way to paint black planes (such as above's F-117 or SR-71 etc) ? I reckon you don't go for full on black?
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Dec 2, 2018 18:10
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Furism posted:What's the Goon-approved way to paint black planes (such as above's F-117 or SR-71 etc) ? I reckon you don't go for full on black? I'm guessing you want to be able to shade panel lines/recesses? Lots of people in wargaming at least use VMC German Grey (70.995) for the main color, since it's a very dark grey that you can shade with black. Or you can go nuts and use vantablack or one of its variants like this. 
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Dec 2, 2018 20:02
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I find German Grey too bright for black, another good near-black I use is RMS Noir Black, it's about halfway between German Grey and pure black.
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Dec 2, 2018 20:07
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When I was painting warhammer stuff I’d generally mix a little dark blue or dark green into my black so that it still looked close enough but allowed me to shade and highlight appropriately
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Dec 2, 2018 20:11
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Furism posted:What's the Goon-approved way to paint black planes (such as above's F-117 or SR-71 etc) ? I reckon you don't go for full on black? For both those kits up there I just followed Revell's instructions and paints: The F-19 is done in 08 Black, the F-117 is done in 09 Anthracite. I've got their Su-47 in 1:144 in my stash as well, the instructions call for an 80/20 mix of 08 Black and 56 Blue. I know the 1:72 Revell version of the plane calls for 302 Satin Black, so I might use that instead when I build it. The anthracite might also work well on it, but I won't really know until I get started.
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Dec 2, 2018 20:13
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Jonny Nox posted:Anyone gonna have 500 euros or so to spend next year? Hmm if my math is right this thing will have just over a 4 foot wingspan and be like 3 feet 10 inches long. Who the hell has the space to display something like that.
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Dec 2, 2018 21:44
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Plinkey posted:Hmm if my math is right this thing will have just over a 4 foot wingspan and be like 3 feet 10 inches long. I suppose you hang it from the ceiling.
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Dec 2, 2018 22:04
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Looks like the AK real colors line is finally expanding to aircraft. The guy who runs the aviation of japan blog was involved with the japanese colors, which tend to be some of the hardest to get right.
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Dec 2, 2018 23:58
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Re-assessed the keel this morning with a hopefully fresh brain, and decided that I could salvage it even though it wouldn't be "right" (one half of the lap-joint would be thicker than the other). The only way this would be seen would be from the bottom of the keel, so I decided to go for it and see what happens. I put the keel piece that I had cut too deeply into the mill and took that entire side down to match the lowest point, and then milled the stem piece much shallower to match it. I then completed the bow lap joints and fit them together. I'm not 100% happy with the joints, but they work and I don't think anyone but me will notice the imperfections, or the 'out of balance' lap joint in the stern (since it's pretty unlikely even in a high level model show that the judges would pick up the boat and inspect the keel from the bottom). The photo's show the keel parts for both types of keels (there are enough parts included to completely make both keels), and hopefully show how the lap joints work vs. the butt/scarph joints.        The first step before removing any pieces from the sheets is to sand with 220 grit to remove the minor laser char. Here you can see a half-sanded piece with the 4 pieces (2 sets) of keel parts. On the left you can see how well the laser cutting is done on this kit. The burn through is very minor.  Once the lap joints were secure, I moved on to attaching the 4 other parts of the keel, which are centered on the now finished section. I followed the instructions and added the bow piece first, then the two stern pieces, and then finished with the long center piece. This kit is going to completely wreck my desire to do any 'mainstream' wood kits, as every single piece so far has fit perfectly without any adjustment at all. Here are the 4 pieces laid out next to the already completed keel with lap-joints, and then the assembly in order of the other 4 parts.      Cleaned up all the excess glue before it could dry, and then moved on to removing the laser char from the edges. Decided to give everything a coat of wipe-on poly per the instructions, when I discovered that my can of wipe-on poly is now a brick of solid poly. Oops! Time for a run to the store. Returned from the store and decided to go ahead and do the nails before the poly because I didn't want to wait for it to dry. I used some tracing paper to trace the pattern for the nails from the plans, and then used a pin to mark the locations on the keel parts on both sides. I then test fit the mono-filament line in several different size holes, and ended up using a .028" drill for the holes, which is a nice tight fit. Drilled out all the holes and then inserted mono-filament line into the holes after dipping the end in my wood glue and clipped it off to dry. I used edge-cutters to cut the line very close to the wood, and then finished with a straight razor, being careful not to cut into the wood. Gave everything a final pass with 220 grit sandpaper, and then cleaned everything and applied the first coat of wipe-on poly.        Next up I start working on assembling the frames and we get to see an entirely new way to build a fully framed boat that is kind of pioneered with this kit.
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Dec 3, 2018 02:56
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FrozenVent posted:Guys I just tried Vallejo Model Air. It really is great. Is super easy to work with, I get a little tip dry on long bursts due to it being super hot at the moment, but if I thin it out a bit and wipe the needle ofter it's golden.
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Dec 3, 2018 02:58
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Puddin posted:It really is great. Is super easy to work with, I get a little tip dry on long bursts due to it being super hot at the moment, but if I thin it out a bit and wipe the needle ofter it's golden. Also the set I bought (WWII Allied) came with a hull red, which is pretty good. Next time I might lay down a brighter red base though, it’s a touch dark for my taste. I just did some model color on the propeller too, and man I love Vallejo. Too bad they’re on the pricy side.
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Dec 3, 2018 03:15
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Around here they're basically bang on average price. Tamiya or GW are basically the same at ~€3.50 a pot.
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Dec 3, 2018 03:51
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The Locator posted:Re-assessed the keel this morning with a hopefully fresh brain, and decided that I could salvage it even though it wouldn't be "right" (one half of the lap-joint would be thicker than the other). The only way this would be seen would be from the bottom of the keel, so I decided to go for it and see what happens. I think you'd really have to know what you are looking for to spot the issue. I'm assuming you are going for a natural finish rather than some sort of paint, which would most definitely hide it. I think you've done well to hide the "problem." Looking at the kit, it is very reminiscent (though obviously more advanced) of the longboat that Mr. Passaro designed for Model Shipways. I had a lot of fun building that longboat so I'm looking forward to seeing where you go with this. Fearless fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Dec 3, 2018 |
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Dec 3, 2018 07:38
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'm guessing you want to be able to shade panel lines/recesses? Lots of people in wargaming at least use VMC German Grey (70.995) for the main color, since it's a very dark grey that you can shade with black. Or you can go nuts and use vantablack or one of its variants like this. Yes I was talking about the panel lines/weathering. Pure black seemed boring. Thanks!
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Dec 3, 2018 08:57
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Actually worked on a model for once this weekend
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Dec 3, 2018 09:22
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Working on Tamiyas 61101 F-16C with the corresponding BigED photoetch set, following Glenn Hoovers practicum. ( https://glennhoovermodels.com/f-16c.html )    
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Dec 5, 2018 09:45
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That F-16 looks fun as hell. I've spent the past month or so working on Hasegawa's Nagato 1/350 kit. It's mostly assembled, I just keep farting around with the paint. I just finished the wood for the display stand today. The kit comes with these little plastic stands, but they're completely seperate and not sturdy at all, so I planned to mount them on a piece of wood. Then I figured I'd router the edges and stain and polish it up. I've got a full load of photoetch railings to go on, so that will be my project here for the next age. Along with rigging and flags. The kit comes with a whole sheet of signal flags, so why the hell not put them on? It's been a fun build, the fit is pretty good overall. Some areas they chose to put seperate parts or sprue connections in really stupid spots. Other parts that fit together have no locator pins, which gets pretty fiddly. The main superstructure looks great, with tons of detail. Oddly the aft superstructure is pretty bare. The rangefinders and doodads on it are very sparse on detail, compared to other on the ship. The instructions aren't the clearest in some areas anyway, some steps have like 20 parts going on at once, and they criss-cross arrows showing where they go all over the place. There's also a couple spots on the hull with holes for parts that I can't seem to figure out what goes there, again the instructions could be much clearer. I'm still not sure what color to paint the plastic stands for the base. Maybe a light tan to go with the wood. Things I forgot because I'm a dumbass: The superstructure fore and aft each has a little section of wood deck, I forgot to paint them for wood. Also the tip of the funnel and part of the aft mast should be black, I underestimated how impossible it would be to mask and paint those sections after assembling them, I might hand-brush them later.    
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Dec 5, 2018 20:21
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Enos Shenk posted:I've spent the past month or so working on Hasegawa's Nagato 1/350 kit. Looks pretty good! You planning to add all the aerial rigging? Looks fiddly as hell on plastic ships, but really does bring them to life IMO.
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Dec 5, 2018 21:03
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Enos Shenk posted:That F-16 looks fun as hell. Looks great so far. This kit is on my list for sure. I've got a plan to build an example if every class that participated in the battle of Samar. The Americans cooperated nicely with only 3 or so major classes - Fletchers, Butlers, and the CVEs. The Japanese on the other hand, had a mishmash of forces. The good new is that every class from the Yamato down to the Shimakaze is represented in 1/350 scale. Only the Yugumo class is out of production and will be difficult to find. Nagato is on my list.
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Dec 5, 2018 21:15
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The Locator posted:Looks pretty good! You planning to add all the aerial rigging? Looks fiddly as hell on plastic ships, but really does bring them to life IMO. Probably most of it, I might deviate a bit from the lengths that run to trusses on top of the inboard turrets. I don't have the PE for the trusses, I could probably scratch build something but it looks a bit wonky anyway in plans. I'll probably just anchor those lengths to nearby structures. I do love (and sortof hate) how most ship models include about a billion pieces that aren't even used. It's nice to have spares of the tiny stuff, but others you just wonder why it's included. This kit has 4 identical sprues mostly of AA gun parts and all the tiny deck vents. There's also a fuckton of single machine guns, I know Hasegawa makes a Leyte Gulf version of this same kit, so I assume those are additional AA added over the life of the historical ship. Maybe I'll just glue them all together on a spare launch. Mega Ultra Machinegunboat.
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Dec 6, 2018 04:10
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Hang onto a few in case of breakages down the line maybe? You never know when something stupid will happen and damage a model.
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Dec 6, 2018 11:26
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Enos Shenk posted:Maybe I'll just glue them all together on a spare launch. Mega Ultra Machinegunboat.
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Dec 6, 2018 11:47
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A  project that was cheap because of water damage.Hence I went absolute minimum for loving around with decals (if your decals have gotten wet you can rescue them with micro-set by slowly and carefully working a brush under them) Revell mig-21f-13, East German markings for some future astronaut.   I just realised I never posted a final of the F-5 from a couple weekends ago. Will fix tonight.
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Dec 6, 2018 21:59
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Wife has shown her hand - she has no idea what to get me for Xmas. The problem is that almost all of my modelling at the moment is scratchbuilt brass/nickel stuff in 2mm:ft such as:  There's nothing she can really 'get' me - because each model consists of half a dozen separately sourced components. The track is hand-laid and the wheels/etc. are all custom and require assembly so she really can't just buy something off the shelf. I have a decent set of tools and materials already. Any thoughts or suggestions? Something fun that I can do as an alternative over the Xmas period which is all 'in box' (other than consumables, obviously) rather than having to go out and get things.
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Dec 8, 2018 00:13
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Southern Heel posted:Any thoughts or suggestions? Something fun that I can do as an alternative over the Xmas period which is all 'in box' (other than consumables, obviously) rather than having to go out and get things. A laser-cut house and garage.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tfjJj4kH74
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Dec 8, 2018 02:19
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Just got this new piece of kit, and I love it! One skill I just can't seem to master is sanding a square edge in wood. Like, not even close. I sand something, think I've got the angles true, and then I rotate the piece and the end is sloping off at 45 degrees. So I picked up the Proxxon mini Disc-Sander, and this thing is a godsend. Nice and compact, runs extremely quietly even at full speed, and produces perfect edges and chamfers. This is certainly going to speed up building parts of my HMS Victory model. Deffo recommended if you're working with wood on a small scale, and will work decent with plastics as well on the lower speeds.
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Dec 8, 2018 07:11
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Hott tool porn ITT
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Dec 8, 2018 16:42
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Just got this new piece of kit, and I love it! One skill I just can't seem to master is sanding a square edge in wood. Like, not even close. I sand something, think I've got the angles true, and then I rotate the piece and the end is sloping off at 45 degrees. So I picked up the Proxxon mini Disc-Sander, and this thing is a godsend. Nice and compact, runs extremely quietly even at full speed, and produces perfect edges and chamfers. This is certainly going to speed up building parts of my HMS Victory model. Deffo recommended if you're working with wood on a small scale, and will work decent with plastics as well on the lower speeds. Its so cute 
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Dec 8, 2018 17:10
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