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Being critical of not just your failures but also your successes is an integral part to learning and growing within your craft
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Jan 23, 2019 18:20
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| # ? May 31, 2024 21:47 |
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We want to tell the story of our project, which includes both the methods and the problems on top of the results.
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Jan 23, 2019 18:24
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Working with wood should be a humbling, zen like experience, since the tree is one of the most majestic and innocent creatures in Nature..... *falls over backward in chair, foaming at the mouth*
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Jan 23, 2019 18:46
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Leperflesh posted:We want to tell the story of our project, which includes both the methods and the problems on top of the results. How does one express multiple profanities in their design?
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Jan 23, 2019 19:19
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That Works posted:How does one express multiple profanities in their design? That's the bloodstains.
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Jan 23, 2019 19:24
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That Works posted:How does one express multiple profanities in their design? Sockser posted:A series of compounding mistakes late in the game took me from this
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Jan 23, 2019 19:33
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Only if you didn't learn anything.
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Jan 23, 2019 19:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's the bloodstains. Literally my first thought. 
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Jan 23, 2019 20:39
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What a waste That would have burned beautiful
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Jan 23, 2019 20:50
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JEEVES420 posted:They are not called mistakes they are "maker marks" My bookcase has learning curves.
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Jan 23, 2019 21:23
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Hi thread, I have updated my tools and am getting more and more into this whole wood working thing! I made a bench the other day and used my router for the first time! It was great. Pic below, I think it came out great for my first woodworking project that isn't a knife handle. I borrowed a friends table saw and fell in love with the tool, luck would have it my co worker has a Makita that is just going to waste in their garage they are giving me along with a miter-saw! The only major thing I am missing i think is a planar, and I cannot afford one and I doubt one will fall into my lap I cannot be that lucky. So I went on my weekly antique shop romp looking for old blacksmithing tools and I found these two hand planars for sale, 8 and 4 dollars and figured it would be silly not to grab them at such a price. How much work (considering I have a ameture metal shop at my disposal for my knife making and blacksmithing) would it be to refurbish these guys to working condition? it looks like they might have sat on a wet surface for a while.    
r00tn00b fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 21:29
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I recently cleaned up and old Stanley that was is far worse shape. I used steel wool and sharpened the blade with my usual wet stones. It now works like a charm.  
DevNull fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Jan 23, 2019 |
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Jan 23, 2019 21:42
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A full tune-up will include sanding the base and cheeks to perfect flatness using a very flat hard surface (such as glass or cut stone) with various grades of wet sandpaper, flattening the blade if necessary, restoring or correcting any issues with the bevel of the blade, and then sharpening. You can also optionally remove and clean up the fittings, sand & re-finish the wood handles, etc. But to get from where they're at now to basic usability, DevNull is correct: de-rust, sharpen, and go. I suspect you may need to grind down those blades, though, since they're both protruding from the throat - one should never store a plane that way, and since you got them at antique shop, it's likely they've been banged around and the blades curled a bit over time. Since you have access to a metalshop you probably have a grinding wheel available that you can use. A plane's blade needs to be very, very sharp. Don't let the blade edge area get very hot during grinding, that is quench-hardened, tempered carbon steel and you'll destroy the temper... although you can restore the temper using normal blade-hardening techniques in your blacksmith shop, if necessary!
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Jan 23, 2019 21:57
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Probably a stupid question but what saw blades (particularly for miter saws and for circulars) are better for precise cuts? My miter saw has the blade that came installed which has carbide tips, which I feel not only loses me more wood, but I realized I had to cut to either side of a measurement line I drew to get the correct cut--I'd lose 1/16 to 1/8 from the initial measurement if I cut directly on the line instead of slightly to the right or left. I'd assume carbide tip blades are just for rough cutting? Is sanding involved in getting more precise lengths or can I get fairly accurate with a different saw blade?
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Jan 23, 2019 22:03
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One man's blotching is another man's figure.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:09
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Carbide vs. HSS is a question of hardness, not precision. Tooth count affects how fast and fine a cut is, with more teeth per inch equalling "finer" cuts, but slower and with more heat. Kerf width also affects fineness to some degree. A smaller (in diameter) blade can flex less while spinning. On a table saw, the quality of your cut is also affected by the stability of your fence. There's probably other factors I'm forgetting, too. When you design a cut you must account for the kerf and cut on the waste side of your line. You can cut a very accurate line if your fence is very solid, you have measured very precisely, you are using correct technique to keep your work piece against the fence, and your saw is well-made and not flexing or wandering, use an appropriate quality blade with a high tooth count (appropriate for the material).... and your wood doesn't warp or twist during the cut, which can happen with anything that isn't 100% dimensionally stable during cuts.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:10
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life is killing me posted:Probably a stupid question but what saw blades (particularly for miter saws and for circulars) are better for precise cuts? My miter saw has the blade that came installed which has carbide tips, which I feel not only loses me more wood, but I realized I had to cut to either side of a measurement line I drew to get the correct cut--I'd lose 1/16 to 1/8 from the initial measurement if I cut directly on the line instead of slightly to the right or left. I'd assume carbide tip blades are just for rough cutting? Is sanding involved in getting more precise lengths or can I get fairly accurate with a different saw blade? A sawblade isn’t like a pair of scissors. It’s not just disconnecting the material along a line, it’s taking out a full line of 1/8” thickness. So if you cut right on the line, you’ll be taking off 1/16” on either side of that line. What you’ll want to do is cut on the waste side of your material. Your line is marking the very far edge of what you’re going to use. Maybe even draw a squiggle on the offcut side so you don’t cut it backwards.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:14
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life is killing me posted:Probably a stupid question but what saw blades (particularly for miter saws and for circulars) are better for precise cuts? My miter saw has the blade that came installed which has carbide tips, which I feel not only loses me more wood, but I realized I had to cut to either side of a measurement line I drew to get the correct cut--I'd lose 1/16 to 1/8 from the initial measurement if I cut directly on the line instead of slightly to the right or left. I'd assume carbide tip blades are just for rough cutting? Is sanding involved in getting more precise lengths or can I get fairly accurate with a different saw blade? You'll always have to consider what side of the mark you're cutting on in order to make a precise cut, its not because of the blade type (unless you're talking about wood ripping out on the surface because of the grain direction). You should be able to make a perfectly accurate cut with that setup. Probably don't use the laser if your saw has one. Do bring your saw down as if you were cutting but without pulling the trigger so you can see where the blade is hitting and adjust accordingly
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Jan 23, 2019 22:14
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life is killing me posted:Probably a stupid question but what saw blades (particularly for miter saws and for circulars) are better for precise cuts? My miter saw has the blade that came installed which has carbide tips, which I feel not only loses me more wood, but I realized I had to cut to either side of a measurement line I drew to get the correct cut--I'd lose 1/16 to 1/8 from the initial measurement if I cut directly on the line instead of slightly to the right or left. I'd assume carbide tip blades are just for rough cutting? Is sanding involved in getting more precise lengths or can I get fairly accurate with a different saw blade? Friend, HSS went and sat in the corner in the early 70's when carbide tipping was developed for the masses (us). What you do is rocker that thing running down gently until you see a little divot cut slightly on the far side from your mark. Lift the saw head slightly with one hand, and slide the piece to perfect with the other. Or, idk, they've got lasers on a lot of them now, but I never used one.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:21
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Leperflesh posted:Carbide vs. HSS is a question of hardness, not precision. Tooth count affects how fast and fine a cut is, with more teeth per inch equalling "finer" cuts, but slower and with more heat. Kerf width also affects fineness to some degree. A smaller (in diameter) blade can flex less while spinning. On a table saw, the quality of your cut is also affected by the stability of your fence. There's probably other factors I'm forgetting, too. Okay, that's a lot to take into account but I did consider the fence on my miter saw. It seems pretty solid and stable, and it has a built-in vise which I used for each cut, especially when cutting two stacked 2x4s (which both fit under the vise and contact the fence). The most precise I have been measuring so far is with a tape measure. I was using a Bosch laser but it proved to be inaccurate for some reason compared to the tape measure for the particular application of cutting wood--when I double checked with a tape measure, the line I drew from the laser was almost an inch off, which doesn't ring true when I use it to measure rooms. Sockser posted:A sawblade isn’t like a pair of scissors. It’s not just disconnecting the material along a line, it’s taking out a full line of 1/8” thickness. So if you cut right on the line, you’ll be taking off 1/16” on either side of that line. I realized this and started doing this a little late, which rendered a critical 2x4 unusable because now any subsequent cuts I made were going to be too short. Harry Potter on Ice posted:You'll always have to consider what side of the mark you're cutting on in order to make a precise cut, its not because of the blade type (unless you're talking about wood ripping out on the surface because of the grain direction). You should be able to make a perfectly accurate cut with that setup. Probably don't use the laser if your saw has one. Do bring your saw down as if you were cutting but without pulling the trigger so you can see where the blade is hitting and adjust accordingly I did begin to do this too, which helped tremendously. Glad it's not about the blade so much as the kerf and cutting on one side of the mark. My saw doesn't have a laser, so I did exactly what you said. Thanks!
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Jan 23, 2019 22:23
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life is killing me posted:Probably a stupid question but what saw blades (particularly for miter saws and for circulars) are better for precise cuts? My miter saw has the blade that came installed which has carbide tips, which I feel not only loses me more wood, but I realized I had to cut to either side of a measurement line I drew to get the correct cut--I'd lose 1/16 to 1/8 from the initial measurement if I cut directly on the line instead of slightly to the right or left. I'd assume carbide tip blades are just for rough cutting? Is sanding involved in getting more precise lengths or can I get fairly accurate with a different saw blade? In my short time of cutting wood I have learned especially on my miter saw the slower i lower the blade the cleaner the cut, if I make a fast cut I get a tone of tear out and a rough edge if I take it slow I get minimal tear out and a smooth surface on thecsut edge.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:27
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r00tn00b posted:In my short time of cutting wood I have learned especially on my miter saw the slower i lower the blade the cleaner the cut, if I make a fast cut I get a tone of tear out and a rough edge if I take it slow I get minimal tear out and a smooth surface on thecsut edge. I had somewhat noticed this when building my shelf, and due to my lack of awareness of this when I started out I ended up with a 2x4 that was a little short and I couldn't use it. Even after I knew this I had to cut shims from that 2x4. Mr. Mambold posted:Friend, HSS went and sat in the corner in the early 70's when carbide tipping was developed for the masses (us). What you do is rocker that thing running down gently until you see a little divot cut slightly on the far side from your mark. Lift the saw head slightly with one hand, and slide the piece to perfect with the other. Or, idk, they've got lasers on a lot of them now, but I never used one. Are you saying to cut a small divot in the wood to make sure I'm accurate on the cut?
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Jan 23, 2019 22:32
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life is killing me posted:I had somewhat noticed this when building my shelf, and due to my lack of awareness of this when I started out I ended up with a 2x4 that was a little short and I couldn't use it. Even after I knew this I had to cut shims from that 2x4. On the dropoff side, yeah. It can be as near to your mark as you're comfortable with.
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Jan 23, 2019 22:37
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How to cut board 12” long in 4 easy steps (with pictures): 1. Measure the board. Make a birds beak with a sharp pencil at 12”, put a big fat X on the waste side of the line.  2. Mark a line. Use a square and mark a line through the birds beak with a sharp pencil. You can skip this, but it helps.  3. Line the cut up with the blade. Lower the sawblade and line up the outside of the teeth with the center of your pencil line. Make sure the sawblade is on the waste side of the line with the big, fat X.  4. Cut the board. While holding the board firmly in place, raise the sawblade off the wood, turn it in, and cut the board. Slower will make a cleaner cut.  5. Repeat until you have all the pieces you need. 6. Vacuum up all the sawdust. 7. Skip step 6. Do it tomorrow.
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Jan 23, 2019 23:40
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life is killing me posted:The most precise I have been measuring so far is with a tape measure. I was using a Bosch laser but it proved to be inaccurate for some reason compared to the tape measure for the particular application of cutting wood--when I double checked with a tape measure, the line I drew from the laser was almost an inch off, which doesn't ring true when I use it to measure rooms. If you've got one of the Bosch laser measures I'm thinking of they're great for setting up a stop block, makes cutting stock to identical lengths a lot easier than marking each cut (unless it's less than 6" or whatever the minimum distance is).You just use the blade as the reference so the kerf is taken into account.
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Jan 24, 2019 00:23
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I don't have a mitre saw, but I've read that if you stop the blade after you make the cut and the blade is down you get a cleaner cut. I guess raising a spinning blade past your cut can add a few more saw marks. Here's a project I finished up a couple weeks ago. A toddler picnic table for my daughter's second birthday. It's white oak and I put a coat of Osmo on it to look nice, I imagine we'll be painting it once it gets weathered in a few years. As it's winter, it's currently inside and my daughter loves it, uses it for colouring, playing, eating snacks, etc. I may have to make another one to go outside so we can keep this one around inside. 
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Jan 24, 2019 01:53
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This photo looks unreal, like I seriously thought it was a 3D render at first. Nice work though.
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Jan 24, 2019 02:04
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Not only am I mildly shocked I’ve gotten this far but it actually doesn’t budge at all lengthwise and the top, while needing a ton of flattening, doesn’t rock on the base.   Still need to flatten the crap out of the top, make the leg stretchers, and do the inner top layer. And yes my workshop is a creepy gross unfinished basement.
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Jan 24, 2019 05:17
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z0331 posted:
I was going to say dungeon, but same same. Man nice work! I’ve wanted to replace the crap workbench the previous owners of our place built, but I’m so drat indecisive, I haven’t started anything.
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Jan 24, 2019 05:29
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Falco posted:I was going to say dungeon, but same same. I literally can’t fully stand upright in spots because of duct work. And thanks! I’m ludicrously happy at how stable it seems to be so far. Cranking the bolts down really makes up for a lot of sloppy work.
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Jan 24, 2019 05:40
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I trashed my desk when I moved, with the intention of building a new one when I got settled in. Which means I've been using my kitchen table as a computer desk for the past 4 months (bachelor life lets you play fast and loose with furniture, I guess) Had planned on doing something nice with walnut plywood, until I asked what a sheet of 3/4" would cost. ($190+) Don't think I'm quite ready to drop 4x on walnut vs birch, so I guess I'm just gonna have to stain up some birch and call it a day.
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Jan 24, 2019 06:18
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I got my countertops in today and I need to think about how I will do my backsplash and window trim. I plan to run the white ceramic tile I posted earlier up to the ceiling and along the entire span of wall beneath the cabinets, but what do I do around the window opening? (Whatever the name is for the other three faces that aren't the sill.) One idea my brother had was to buy more of the Ikea Walnut veneer finish panels and cut strips to fasten to the window opening that will contrast with the white wall, cabinets, and countertop. The first thing that comes to mind if I'm going that route is that it might be cheaper to buy a few planks of S4S walnut and just rip strips of it, apply finish and pin nail it to the opening. Here are the two windows in question: 
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Jan 24, 2019 07:18
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Whats the rest of the trim look like in the house? The word you're looking for is jamb, casing is the molding on the wall
Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 07:29
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Whats the rest of the trim look like in the house? The word you're looking for is jamb, casing is the molding on the wall The rest of the house is cheapo-Texas 1990s builder. So heavily textured drywall and only a wooden sill for trim. just drywall in the jamb. I wish I had been a little more forward thinking when I first bought the house and had gone for a more craftsman like trim for the doors and windows, but I wound up just replacing the 2" baseboards with ~4" baseboards, and the door trim is a 3" variety of some sort I picked up at the big box store. So, in other words, I don't really care if it exactly matches the rest of the house. I just want the kitchen to be consistent with itself. If I am to remain consistent with the way in which the other windows are trimmed, I guess I can leave the jamb untrimmed. Do I have tile running up to the jamb, and then paint it a white to match the tile, or do I apply tile to the jamb? The kitchen window sills are a white quartz-- same as the countertop.
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Jan 24, 2019 07:49
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MetaJew posted:I got my countertops in today and I need to think about how I will do my backsplash and window trim. First off I just wanted to say that I love the herringbone floor. What you could do with the tile is to put a schluter strip at the edge where it will return to the windows.  That makes a nice clean edge as an alternative to doing the wood. your call though.
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Jan 24, 2019 12:17
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New to this whole thing so I'll keep it simple, what angle countersink bit for typical wood screws in the US? Also, haven't seen a plane pop up on any local estate sales, would I be crazy to get one of these to try things out? https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-9-75-in-Bench-Plane/4069033 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Buck-Bros-9-in-Bench-Plane-120C4/100351888
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Jan 24, 2019 14:48
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Bob Mundon posted:New to this whole thing so I'll keep it simple, what angle countersink bit for typical wood screws in the US? If you're wanting to get a used one and only do a minor bit of polishing / blade sharpening (and maybe not even that much) then eBay is pretty good for this kinda thing. I bought my Stanley #4 and #5 as well as a couple of other smaller block planes, rabbeting plane etc all from eBay and all were in really nice shape. Most of them came with the blade sharpened by the seller. example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stanley-Ba...cQ0Es:rk:8:pf:0 This is the same model variation (year) of no #5 I have and I picked mine up with shipping for around $50-60.
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Jan 24, 2019 15:28
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Mostly 82 degrees for screws. Some are 90 degrees though, so know what you're buying I guess? I have a couple of those Buck brand planes from Home Depot and they're not particularly good. I just turned them into scrub planes to take off bulk material and they work okay for less precise work. They don't really compare to the old Stanley I have in terms of comfort and use. Have you tried eBay if you're not finding anything local?
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Jan 24, 2019 15:28
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A lot of people collect Stanley planes and it really drives up the prices on eBay etc. I’ve had good luck with old used Sargent planes and a lot of times you can get them much cheaper than Stanley.
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Jan 24, 2019 15:42
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AFewBricksShy posted:First off I just wanted to say that I love the herringbone floor. Thanks! That was some of the first tile we laid when I bought the house. It turned out okay, but don't look too closely if you're ever in my house.  The schluter idea isn't bad. I was already considering using one on the pony wall. I'll keep that in mind as an option.
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Jan 24, 2019 16:17
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