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Before I read a word of your post I thought, "boy I hope he meant for those to look like a dog's legs." So you hit on that, if you were worried about it.
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Feb 9, 2019 04:49
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Feb 9, 2019 16:29
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Often when I'm working, I get this nagging voice in my head saying, "when was the last time you sharpened your tools?" But I keep working anyway because it's going fine and I'm not struggling that much. Then I finally give in and take 5 minutes to sharpen whatever's out on my bench and go back to work and wow!!! It's like the wood's not even there. Then the cycle repeats. You'd think I would learn. Sharpen your tools, folks!
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Feb 9, 2019 22:56
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ColdPie posted:Often when I'm working, I get this nagging voice in my head saying, "when was the last time you sharpened your tools?" But I keep working anyway because it's going fine and I'm not struggling that much. Then I finally give in and take 5 minutes to sharpen whatever's out on my bench and go back to work and wow!!! It's like the wood's not even there. Then the cycle repeats. You'd think I would learn. Not to mention dull tools are dangerous tools. Sharpen your tools, folks!
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Feb 10, 2019 00:41
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Buffing wheels are great for that-takes like 30 seconds and you've got a nice refreshed edge and don't have to get out the stones. They're all I ever use on most of my carving chisels because some of them are so hard to grind/sharpen, and it makes such a world of difference using sharp tools.
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Feb 10, 2019 00:53
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Going to make a laminated workbench top soon. Is it better to buy 2x3s or 2x12s and rip them into 2x3s? Also for gluing up, any difference between white and yellow glue?
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Feb 10, 2019 02:53
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Bob Mundon posted:Going to make a laminated workbench top soon. Is it better to buy 2x3s or 2x12s and rip them into 2x3s? Also for gluing up, any difference between white and yellow glue? Whatever is cheaper. Whatever is cheaper.
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Feb 10, 2019 06:14
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Blistex posted:Whatever is cheaper. Words to live by.
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Feb 10, 2019 13:53
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Are you gonna be ripping those 2x12 by hand? I did that for my first bench and while a learning experience boy was it exhausting. Just a thought.
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Feb 10, 2019 14:02
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Bob Mundon posted:Going to make a laminated workbench top soon. Is it better to buy 2x3s or 2x12s and rip them into 2x3s? Also for gluing up, any difference between white and yellow glue? Chris Schwarz says to go with 2x12s, the wood will be a bit better quality and when you rip the 2x3s the 2x3s will be almost quartersawn wood.
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Feb 10, 2019 19:21
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Agreed, when it comes to construction lumber, bigger is almost always higher quality. Also yellow Titebond > Elmer's white, as general good representations of the two. There is a decent chance you'll get some loss with 2x12s due to a good chance of heartwood in the center, so keep an eye out when you're digging through lumber piles.
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Feb 10, 2019 19:57
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Also a plank that is straight before resawing may be not straight after resawing, and that alone could make it more worth it to get the small ones... assuming they're nice and straight.
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Feb 10, 2019 21:06
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Unfortunately at least with yellow pine, 2x4’s almost always come from small diameter canterwood/pulpwood that is just big enough to get a 2x4 or landscape timber out of or the off-cuts (from the outside of the tree) of larger sawtimber. In practice this means it’s usually either very knotty or has the pith running through it or is very crooked, often all three. Larger and longer lumber comes from bigger, straighter trees and is usually much better quality. If you want to use 2x4s go to a real lumberyard (not a big box store) and get #1 grade 2x4’s 16’ long. Big box stores just have #2 and it’s almost all poo poo for 2x4s and 6s. They will cost more but be muuuuuch straighter and often almost free of knots. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Feb 11, 2019 |
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Feb 10, 2019 22:16
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Thanks for all the input, seems like 2x12 is the way to go. Kinda figured since selection of 2x3s is pretty limited here. Hopefully they'll be able to rip them at the store, but if not great excuse to make a circular saw guide.
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Feb 11, 2019 01:28
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I don’t care for enamel pins. Somehow in spite of this I’ve managed to amass a pretty decent pile of enamel pins chilling out in a drawer. Tired of (not?) looking at them, so I want to build a pinboard/shadowbox Pretty much like this- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YVJ4CS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tQAyCb8P27BMF So I found a hunk of ~10?mm cork-backed foam at micheals, and I plan on affixing some sort of nicer looking fabric to it, and that’ll serve as the actual pin board, but I’m not sure how I’d get that into the box nicely. Just cut a dado in the frame and wedge it in there when I assemble it? Likewise when doing plexi in a frame, what’s the order of operations w/r/t removing the protective coat? Peel it back a bit when you install it? Peel the whole fucker off and deal with the fallout? Leave it all on and do some delicate knifework to get it off afterwards?
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Feb 11, 2019 18:05
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Sockser posted:Leave it all on and do some delicate knifework to get it off afterwards?
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Feb 11, 2019 18:33
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Gluing up the table top this week. It's gonna be real heavy. Hoping to have the glueup done by this weekend so I can get the breadboards end on quickly.
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Feb 12, 2019 01:42
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ColdPie posted:Gluing up the table top this week. It's gonna be real heavy. Hoping to have the glueup done by this weekend so I can get the breadboards end on quickly. Sweet. Keep updating, I'm gonna do a big trestle table with breadboards sometime this year.
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Feb 12, 2019 02:11
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ColdPie posted:Gluing up the table top this week. It's gonna be real heavy. Hoping to have the glueup done by this weekend so I can get the breadboards end on quickly. I dunno what your plans are for finish, but I just used some potassium dichromate on a headboard to match the rest of an 1830s bed- perfect match with one application and a really nice honey/amberish tone to it. I think with sunlight it might darken a bit more and get more of the reddish tones-or you can water stain over the dichromate to get the color you want.   Sockser posted:I don’t care for enamel pins.
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Feb 12, 2019 02:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That's gonna look great! You can clamp some big 2x4-on-edge cauls across the ends if you're worried about keeping it flat until you get the ends on. Good idea on the 2x4s, I didn't even think of doing something like that. As for finish, I'm not sure yet. Was planning to do a few coats of shellac, followed by some urethane on the top, since it's going to be our dining table. I'm not too worried about the color, and I already have and have worked with both of these finishes. Need to do a test board to make sure that works.
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Feb 12, 2019 03:20
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ColdPie posted:Good idea on the 2x4s, I didn't even think of doing something like that. As for finish, I'm not sure yet. Was planning to do a few coats of shellac, followed by some urethane on the top, since it's going to be our dining table. I'm not too worried about the color, and I already have and have worked with both of these finishes. Need to do a test board to make sure that works. That's my go to finish for furniture, a great combo.
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Feb 12, 2019 04:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:T Plus plexi scratches super easy.
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Feb 12, 2019 04:21
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Meow Meow Meow posted:That's my go to finish for furniture, a great combo.
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Feb 12, 2019 04:38
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It’s just used as a sanding sealer. It raises the grain on the first application so you can knock it back nice and smooth, and it also does a bit of work filling the pores. I would love to know if this is correct though! It’s what I’ve been told in the past at least...
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Feb 12, 2019 04:52
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Need to make a desktop to replace my Ikea sandwiched carboard ...thing since my desk mounted monitor arm just collapses it an any spot that I put it on after a few weeks. This is with a 6x4 piece of wood to spread the load... Would like it to be 58.5"x30". Is my best bet sandwiching 3/4 plywood, or doing a glueup panel? Ideally between 1" and 1 1/2" I have no clamps currently, but there's no reason I can't buy a few. Ninja: Will be painted black
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Feb 12, 2019 05:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t use polyurethane much, but whats the reason for putting shellac under it? Color? I don't particularly like the plastic urethane look, so I'm only using that for the table top, where I need the wear and alcohol resistance. The frame is just getting shellac. The reason for shellac is I know how to use it, and because I have a poo poo load of it that I want to use up. (PS If anyone wants to buy discount amber shellac flakes, pm me.)
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Feb 12, 2019 12:32
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Bondematt posted:Need to make a desktop to replace my Ikea sandwiched carboard ...thing since my desk mounted monitor arm just collapses it an any spot that I put it on after a few weeks. This is with a 6x4 piece of wood to spread the load... You have no woodworking experience, correct? I base that judgement on the fact that you have no clamps whatsoever. In that case I'd definitely recommend going the plywood route, just to keep things as simple as possible. Unfortunately for you, plywood is sold in 4'x8' sheets in the US, and your desired size is just slightly over half a sheet, so you'll need two full sheets cut down to your desired dimensions. Spread wood glue on the face of one, put the other on top, then spread a bunch of heavy things on top of that (weightlifting gear is ideal for this, or buckets of water; you probably want a couple hundred pounds or so for a glue-up of this size). Or buy some clamps and make cauls out of 2x4s. Make sure your edges are nicely aligned, then leave it for a day. You're going to want to sand the front end of the desk so it's not too sharp. If you weren't planning to paint it I'd also suggest trying to put an edge band on it, but I think paint should suffice there. Remember to apply primer before the paint.
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Feb 12, 2019 15:40
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Bondematt posted:Need to make a desktop to replace my Ikea sandwiched carboard ...thing since my desk mounted monitor arm just collapses it an any spot that I put it on after a few weeks. This is with a 6x4 piece of wood to spread the load... Granite Octopus posted:It’s just used as a sanding sealer. It raises the grain on the first application so you can knock it back nice and smooth, and it also does a bit of work filling the pores. https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/shellac-as-a-sealer-its-all-just-hype ColdPie posted:I don't particularly like the plastic urethane look, so I'm only using that for the table top, where I need the wear and alcohol resistance. The frame is just getting shellac. The reason for shellac is I know how to use it, and because I have a poo poo load of it that I want to use up. (PS If anyone wants to buy discount amber shellac flakes, pm me.)
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Feb 12, 2019 16:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Unless you're super worried about weight or breakability, real glass is usually cheaper than plexiglass and easy to cut, or they'll do it for free most places you buy it. Dado/rabbet around the inside and stick the panel in should work fine for both the back and the glass. I’ve got shitloads of plexi or appropriate size laying around from laser projects and arcade cabinet scraps and stuff What do I do to hold either in once they’re rabbeted in, though? Particularly the front glass, since that’s one of the few problems a nail gun won’t fix Sockser fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Feb 12, 2019 |
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Feb 12, 2019 16:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t use polyurethane much, but whats the reason for putting shellac under it? Color? Coldpie beat me to it, poly only on the top for a bit of extra protection.
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Feb 12, 2019 20:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:In that case I'd definitely recommend going the plywood route, just to keep things as simple as possible. Unfortunately for you, plywood is sold in 4'x8' sheets in the US, and your desired size is just slightly over half a sheet, so you'll need two full sheets cut down to your desired dimensions. Typically Home Depots in my area have 4x4 sheets already cut down in most plywood thicknesses.
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Feb 13, 2019 02:45
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Wasabi the J posted:Typically Home Depots in my area have 4x4 sheets already cut down in most plywood thicknesses. The quoted dimensions were over 4 feet in one axis (>50 inches). Kaiser Schnitzel's suggestion to look for 5x5 sheets is a good one though, not least because Baltic birch plywood should be much higher quality than most of the stuff available at Home Depot or Lowes.
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Feb 13, 2019 02:58
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I don't know if it's sanctions or the oil price is down and the russians want hard  dollars or what, but suddenly 5x5 3/4 baltic birch is like $30/sheet when lovely Chinese birch 4x8 stuff is $40/sheet.
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Feb 13, 2019 03:12
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I got the riser block for my bandsaw installed, and decided to take this opportunity to go from 1/2" to 3/4" blades. One thing I'm struggling with is that the difference between slack and tensioned for these blades seems to be minimal -- that is, if I have the blade tensioned to the point that there's no visible flutter when it's running, then when I release the tension lever the blade feels like it's basically at the same level of tension. Is that expected for this kind of blade? With the 1/2" blades I'd been using, when I released tension they were loose enough that they'd pop right off the wheel. Have a couple of photos of the tensioner, in case they're relevant.   The knob on top controls wheel height (and thus tension), but it's the lever that switches from tense to slack. It causes maybe a half-inch of travel on the wheel, and I don't see how I can increase that.
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Feb 13, 2019 03:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don't know if it's sanctions or the oil price is down and the russians want hard Is it russian or actually lithuanian or estonian, like you know, the baltic states? I mean we always said it was russian ever since the soviet union, but when have those rear end in a top hat russians ever made anything that was the best quality in any area? Also, that price is loving absurd. 1/2" has been $50+ for years....
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Feb 13, 2019 03:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I got the riser block for my bandsaw installed, and decided to take this opportunity to go from 1/2" to 3/4" blades. One thing I'm struggling with is that the difference between slack and tensioned for these blades seems to be minimal -- that is, if I have the blade tensioned to the point that there's no visible flutter when it's running, then when I release the tension lever the blade feels like it's basically at the same level of tension. Is that expected for this kind of blade? With the 1/2" blades I'd been using, when I released tension they were loose enough that they'd pop right off the wheel. Mr. Mambold posted:Is it russian or actually lithuanian or estonian, like you know, the baltic states? I mean we always said it was russian ever since the soviet union, but when have those rear end in a top hat russians ever made anything that was the best quality in any area?
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Feb 13, 2019 03:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Not sure if this really answer your question, but you generally want as much tension as the blade/saw can safely handle. The main benefit from wider blades is not so much that they are wider and stiffer, but that they can handle much higher tension (and thus run much straighter) without breaking because they are wider. I think as long as the tension is within the limits of what's safe/recommended for your saw, your fine. Does it have some kind of indicator to tell you how much tension there is? I can't really tell how big the saw is, but wider blades wear out/break faster on smaller saws because there is much more metal fatigue for a big stiff blade bending around a smaller wheel than a bigger wheel, so you might save the wider blades for resawing/heavy ripping instead of every day stuff. Further to this, I don't think a 14" saw with a riser is stiff enough to fully tension a 3/4" blade. You'll probably get better results using a thinner blade that you are able to fully tension.
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Feb 13, 2019 04:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You have no woodworking experience, correct? I base that judgement on the fact that you have no clamps whatsoever. In that case I'd definitely recommend going the plywood route, just to keep things as simple as possible. Unfortunately for you, plywood is sold in 4'x8' sheets in the US, and your desired size is just slightly over half a sheet, so you'll need two full sheets cut down to your desired dimensions. Spread wood glue on the face of one, put the other on top, then spread a bunch of heavy things on top of that (weightlifting gear is ideal for this, or buckets of water; you probably want a couple hundred pounds or so for a glue-up of this size). Or buy some clamps and make cauls out of 2x4s. Make sure your edges are nicely aligned, then leave it for a day. Very little experience! Made a few things over the years for other projects, but never made anything furniture quality. Basically I've cut wood and put screws in it, once I even used glue! Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you can find Baltic birch plywood (call a specialty lumberyard/cabinet supply place) it comes in 5’x5’ sheets. Rip one in half and glue/screw it to itself and you’ll have a very strong, flat 60”x30”x1.5” table top. It also has no voids in the edges and should paint up nicely. That's perfect, is 5x5 baltic birch common? I'm in San Diego so we have a ton of lumber yards and hardwood places.
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Feb 13, 2019 04:41
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Bondematt posted:Very little experience! Made a few things over the years for other projects, but never made anything furniture quality. Basically I've cut wood and put screws in it, once I even used glue! Bet you can find it, then. It's actually metric, I believe, not that that matters here. But if you're going for 3/4" thick, be sure to specify rather than 1/2".
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Feb 13, 2019 05:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Not sure if this really answer your question, but you generally want as much tension as the blade/saw can safely handle. The main benefit from wider blades is not so much that they are wider and stiffer, but that they can handle much higher tension (and thus run much straighter) without breaking because they are wider. I think as long as the tension is within the limits of what's safe/recommended for your saw, your fine. Does it have some kind of indicator to tell you how much tension there is? I can't really tell how big the saw is, but wider blades wear out/break faster on smaller saws because there is much more metal fatigue for a big stiff blade bending around a smaller wheel than a bigger wheel, so you might save the wider blades for resawing/heavy ripping instead of every day stuff. Interesting. The manual for my saw (Grizzly 14") says to release tension until you see flutter, then turn the tension knob a couple full rotations tighter from there. Basically just enough tension that you're not likely to see flutter. That sounds very different from what you're saying, i.e. "as tight as you can get it". There's no absolute tension indicator on the saw, just one of those dumb "if your blade is 3/8" wide, tension to this mark, if it's 1/2" tension to this mark, etc." things. Fair point on the blades wearing out. I'm lazy when it comes to swapping blades though, and in particular with this 3/4" blade if I can't swap it without a lot of fiddling with the tensioner to even be able to get it off the wheel, it's liable to stay there until I have to remove it for sharpening. I guess we'll see how much of a problem that is! But now I know it's a potential issue. Meow Meow Meow posted:Further to this, I don't think a 14" saw with a riser is stiff enough to fully tension a 3/4" blade. You'll probably get better results using a thinner blade that you are able to fully tension. Grizzly claims that the saw can handle 3/4" blades. I'd only not used them in the past because they weren't available in 92.5" length from Wood Slicer, so one of the benefits, in my mind, to getting the riser was being able to step up the blade size. I'll definitely be doing some test cuts before I try to cut anything valuable though, so if the quality's bad I guess I'll just have to ditch the blades for 1/2", which is what I'd been using before.
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Feb 13, 2019 05:19
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