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Starting to look like an actual plane now.
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Feb 14, 2019 11:11
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A touch more progress. I did the carbon decals the other day and tonight I did the bare metal. I know the stuff lower down is crinkly and a little poo poo but most of it will be covered by the exhausts and turbos. I also attempted arildite on the etched pieces but it didn’t really work all that well. I need to get some more clear and a couple of paints tomorrow so I’ll see if they have some thin ca that might wick a little better into the join. 
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Feb 14, 2019 11:28
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Almost done with my Y-Wing. This model is fantastic; debating about even doing decals since I'm pretty ok with how it looks now.     
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Feb 14, 2019 17:41
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EdsTeioh posted:Almost done with my Y-Wing. This model is fantastic; debating about even doing decals since I'm pretty ok with how it looks now. drat, that's looking really good.
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Feb 14, 2019 18:07
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EdsTeioh posted:Almost done with my Y-Wing. This model is fantastic; debating about even doing decals since I'm pretty ok with how it looks now. Looks fantastic! One critique that jumped out at me (I'm horrible about seeing the bad instead of the good) - The laser turret on the top there... the barrels just end in flat white... I have no idea what a laser barrel end should look like but it just seems unfinished to me. If it was much earlier in the build I would suggest drilling them out, but now, I'm not sure, but seems like there should be something besides just all white there. Also looks like some mold flashing still visible on the end of the barrel on the left (left in the photo's). Yes, I did judge at IPMS Nationals, why do you ask? 
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Feb 14, 2019 18:23
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The Locator posted:Looks fantastic! Dang Locator, Ima fix every bit of that poo poo today! And yeah, that turret is very unfinished; base coat and a black wash only on it so far.
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Feb 14, 2019 18:41
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Ordered something from https://www.scale-model-kits.com/ . They do eastern european stuff for a good price and postage to the US was only $6 which is a pretty good deal and better than the ebay people I usually use for that stuff, and it got here in 12 days which isn't bad. One weird thing though:  It's normally just the model that comes in kit form. Not the box.
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Feb 15, 2019 20:37
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When I ordered from Hobby Terra, which also ships from Eastern Europe (with free shipping if you buy enough), and a lot of things came like that. Two piece boxes came with just the collapsed and folded lid and the sprues in the original bags taped to the inside, smaller boxes would be collapsed with the sprue bags on the inside. I imagine they save a lot of money on shipping this way. Also here's the evening's work. Took me quite some time to cut out and file down all the track links (since there are so many), but it was the most pleasant workable tracks I've ever worked with. Three sprue attachment points, so easy to clean up, and they just click in and stay (with the exception of 3 pieces or so that had the female component of the joint damaged). There are eight spare links in the kit. Shame you can't really display sag on a chassis like this. 
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Feb 16, 2019 04:58
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Found this in my shed. Feeling kind of automotive, so I might add this one to my queue after the Zero.
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Feb 16, 2019 05:10
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Tamiyas F1 kits aren’t too bad to put together as long as you check the fit of the body on the undertray of the car. I tried using arildite on some of the photoetch bits but it created a bit of a mess and didn’t glue that well in the end. I got some brush on ca today which is thinner than the gel and seems to wick into joints quite nicely so I’ll be able to get the rest of the photoetch put together shortly. I may have to put the kit on hold for a little while at some point so that I can get the wire I want to make the engine match the prototype version though because the tamiya wire I would like to use is only available from Japan which I’ll add to my order that’s getting released on Monday
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Feb 16, 2019 05:39
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Carth Dookie posted:Found this in my shed. Feeling kind of automotive, so I might add this one to my queue after the Zero. Goldmine find! The Tamiya 191 has been going up in value and is getting rarer and rarer. I have one I have yet to start, can’t wait to do so. One of the most aesthetically pleasing F1 cars ever, IMO. One thing I’d recommend is to join the monocoque halves before painting and hit the seam with a small bead of putty. Other than that, these kits go together well.
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Feb 16, 2019 19:44
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It's finally over. Real photoshoot coming soon.
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Feb 16, 2019 21:29
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George Zimmer posted:Goldmine find! The Tamiya 191 has been going up in value and is getting rarer and rarer. I have one I have yet to start, can’t wait to do so. One of the most aesthetically pleasing F1 cars ever, IMO. One thing I’d recommend is to join the monocoque halves before painting and hit the seam with a small bead of putty. Other than that, these kits go together well. Really? I bought a bunch of the grand prix series. Didn't realise any of them were rare. I've got Schumacher's Benetton, a Williams 13B, a lotus from the same era and a Tyrell Honda, plus the McLaren MP4/4. Also the 89? Ferrari and 2000 Ferrari and 2010 Red Bull. I've done Senna's Lotus and the McLaren MP4/5 already and posted pictures here. I remember being a bit miffed by the decals with them but I was putting them on bare plastic and didn't seal them and it wasn't until I looked at scalemates the other day that I realised that those kits might be drat near 30 years old and in that context, they held up quite well all things considered. Edit: I've got the special edition MP4/4 and just looked at the EBAY prices on those. Yikes, glad I didn't pay that. 
Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Feb 16, 2019 |
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Feb 16, 2019 23:06
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I'm just starting airbrushing and modelling, and I'm wondering... if I put together a little box with a filter, high cfm computer fan, and exhaust duct leading up to a window outside, will that be enough for keeping acrylic mist contained, and maybe venting tamiya cement fumes? It's way too cold to go outside or leave a window open with a fan in it right now thanks to the harsh Canadian winter. I don't plan on running anything past acrylic through my brush at the moment (I'm looking at 2k urethane clear for other projects, but that's been relegated to "literally outside only" because that poo poo scares the crap out of me.) so I'm more concerned with catching particulates than too much noxious stuff.
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Feb 17, 2019 22:28
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Carth Dookie posted:Really? I bought a bunch of the grand prix series. Didn't realise any of them were rare. I've got Schumacher's Benetton, a Williams 13B, a lotus from the same era and a Tyrell Honda, plus the McLaren MP4/4. Also the 89? Ferrari and 2000 Ferrari and 2010 Red Bull. I've done Senna's Lotus and the McLaren MP4/5 already and posted pictures here. I remember being a bit miffed by the decals with them but I was putting them on bare plastic and didn't seal them and it wasn't until I looked at scalemates the other day that I realised that those kits might be drat near 30 years old and in that context, they held up quite well all things considered. Some are rarer than others. The F189 might still be produced? In the very least it’s still available in online stores. The Leyton House CG901 and Williams FW24 are the most highly sought after that I’ve seen, especially the latter. I agree that they’ve held up remarkably well given their age, can’t say the same for a lot of Revell/AMT kits from the same era.
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Feb 17, 2019 22:38
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In the southern region of british rail, power for lots of commuter services (and some locomotives) is via 750v DC on a third rail parallel to the running rails, this is me laying it: https://i.imgur.com/SMG8Kn6.jpg
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Feb 17, 2019 22:45
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Tyty posted:I'm just starting airbrushing and modelling, and I'm wondering... if I put together a little box with a filter, high cfm computer fan, and exhaust duct leading up to a window outside, will that be enough for keeping acrylic mist contained, and maybe venting tamiya cement fumes? It's way too cold to go outside or leave a window open with a fan in it right now thanks to the harsh Canadian winter. I built a box that sits on my desk (check my post history for pictures). I have no drawn air, I just have the window open for fumes. IMO if you're only going to be using acrylics, I wouldn't worry about it. A paint pot for expelling the excess and cleaning the airbrush is really good investment and contains mess very well. I haven't had a problem with overspray getting into places it shouldn't. If you decide to mess with lacquers and associated thinners, then yeah wear an appropriate air mask and go full extractor if you can. Edit: I went shopping this morning and wound up breaking one of my rules. I ended up buying another model kit. I wandered into one of my hobby shops and was surprised to find a small selection of Tamiya's 1/72 warbird collection. I'd never seen these for sale except online, and I like the store. Plus it was like $18 Australian. So I weakened and bought it. It's a Bf109 and will be my next plane since it looks like a simple build and I want to practice doing camoflauge. I also want more practice before taking on the Zero with all the extra PE and resin parts. Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 17, 2019 22:55
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I know we have a few train folks here - Is there a forum somewhere that I can ask numerous questions about a dcc setup that *isn't* a hellhole of weird olds? Alternatively, would it be appropriate for me to ask stuff here? I don't wanna stray too far off topic.
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Feb 18, 2019 01:28
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Slugworth posted:I know we have a few train folks here - Is there a forum somewhere that I can ask numerous questions about a dcc setup that *isn't* a hellhole of weird olds?  Edit: I remember a poster in this thread mentioned posting pictures of his train stuff on a dedicated board, and the olds melted the gently caress down when they noticed the bike lanes. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 01:58
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I've been put in charge of figuring out how to setup my girlfriend's NCE Power Cab. Do I absolutely need a programming track separate from my main track? All the literature included in the set seems to indicate a program track is just sort of helpful, but online I'm seeing a lot of references to accidentally destroying dcc decoders by programming on the main track. For what it's worth, there will only be a single locomotive. I know the dcc is overkill for now, but she has larger ambitions down the road. Additionally, it says to run a "bus line" of 18g wire around the entire setup and feed off of that to the track every 6 feet. Is there any fancy wiring that needs to happen, or do I just wirenut a terminal track joiner to the bus wires every 6 feet?
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Feb 18, 2019 02:58
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Do they use wire nuts usually? I think you would rather have an automotive style crimp connecter.
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Feb 18, 2019 03:03
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Blue Footed Booby posted:
That was Baron Jutter. I miss him 
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Feb 18, 2019 03:06
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always be closing posted:Do they use wire nuts usually? I think you would rather have an automotive style crimp connecter. What I'm picturing is a loop of wire underneath the perimeter of the table. From there, every 6 feet there'd be a feed up to the track. So, essentially the track would be powered in parallel every 6 feet. That rules out automotive style crimps, unless there's a T-connection crimp out there or I'm just thoroughly misunderstanding something. All my wiring knowledge comes from home wiring, thus my proposal of wire nuts. http://mrr.trains.com/how-to/dcc-electrical/2014/09/track-buses-for-digital-command-control The picture at the top of that link is basically what I'm picturing, but without the connections being bare solder, because something about that just weirds me out. Slugworth fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 03:41
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Finally, the Mark V is finished, photographed, and on my shelf. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this project.          Rest of photos This was a HUGE project. It took me 2.5 months to do overall. The box is enormous, more than twice as big as I'm used to, and absolutely full of sprues. The fit of major assemblies gave me pause at first, since the engine and fighting compartment assembly don't go together that well, but the rest of the kit comes together perfectly, with the exception of the sponson cannons, which I had to glue in rather than let them rotate. You can also let the final drive gears rotate, but I glued them in place by accident. It doesn't really matter in the end, since the tracks are a little too flimsy to actually function, but are easy to assemble and look pretty good on a static model. I'm probably going to switch to something with a little fewer parts for my next couple of projects. I keep forgetting that full interior kits are a nice concept, but a colossal pain in the rear end.
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Feb 18, 2019 04:01
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Jonny Nox posted:That was Baron Jutter. I miss him His model railroad stuff was great. I suspect he's just gotten busy with being a dad and will come back sometime.
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Feb 18, 2019 04:19
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That tank is fantastic.
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Feb 18, 2019 06:45
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Slugworth posted:Damned if I know. A quick google image search seems to suggest the typical train wiring setup is "indescribable rats nest of wires". Bus wires can be literal wire, but I used self adhesive copper tape and soldered my droppers to that. I've used suitcase connectors in the past (which are automotive connectors that crimp closed with a pair of pliers) but make sure you get the correct size connector for the wire you're using. It depends on the layout size, but most people just run a bus wire underneath that can be 'tapped' wherever neccesary to ensure that all rails are live all of the time. Some people put a dropper on every piece of rail, some people solder long track formations together and feed at one end. Ultimately this is going to be an hour or two of a multi-thousand-hour project so why not just do it belt-and-braces? Here is what I mean:  Programming tracks run at much lower output than the rest of the layout, so if you gently caress something up it doesn't explode anything. I didn't listen to my own advice and put a loco with the chip on upside down onto the main and after a few seconds of buzzing the chip caught fire and let out the magic smoke. Whether you need a dedicated track or not is another matter - it depends on how many locos you have. Simplest way is to do what I did - set up a toggle switch to flip the whole layout from main to programming and use that to set the loco addresses one time (you'll need to remove every loco other than the one you want to address while this goes ahead), and then flip it back and use programming on the main going forward. Some points to consider: - You CANNOT let your mainline and programming track get connected (i.e. running a loco from one into the other), as the latter is expecting much lower voltage and you'll burn it out - Programming on the main is perfectly fine, but you cannot set the loco address - Programming on a programming track sets all CVs for all chips connected to a given value, so you want to do it one loco at a time Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Feb 18, 2019 |
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Feb 18, 2019 07:44
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Decal work on the P47 is 90% complete and I'm glad of it. It was never my favourite task in a build and while I admit it's been some time since I did it last, I don't recall it being so difficult. I'm reasonably certain that's to do with the decals themselves. The academy decals have many irritating qualities. Thick, disinclined to stick to anything except its own decal sheet and despite the thickness, very fragile. I'm glad that only 3 of them were wrapped around difficult curves and required trimming. Somehow they also refused to cut cleanly, despite using a brand new scalpel blade. I don't want to imagine how much worse it would have been without mark set or decal softener. I'll be glad to have them under a few coats of clear in the next few days. I'm looking forward to the weathering and wash process since I haven't done either before.
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Feb 18, 2019 08:56
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Southern Heel posted:In the southern region of british rail, power for lots of commuter services (and some locomotives) is via 750v DC on a third rail parallel to the running rails, this is me laying it:
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Feb 18, 2019 11:50
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Ensign Expendable posted:Finally, the Mark V is finished, photographed, and on my shelf. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this project. Great work! Couple of questions as I've never really studied WWI tanks. 1) What's the iron bar with the chain attached on the top for? 2) What's the red piping for?
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Feb 18, 2019 15:16
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The Locator posted:Great work! Couple of questions as I've never really studied WWI tanks. Not sure on the bar, but the red pipes should be exhaust pipes that have rusted due to heat expansion/contraction. Or something along those lines.
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Feb 18, 2019 15:36
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It's an unditching beam: https://www.quora.com/How-did-the-unditching-beam-on-Mark-IV-tanks-work
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Feb 18, 2019 15:46
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Arquinsiel posted:It's an unditching beam: https://www.quora.com/How-did-the-unditching-beam-on-Mark-IV-tanks-work I need one of those for the GF’s Accent.
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Feb 18, 2019 16:35
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Carth Dookie posted:Decal work on the P47 is 90% complete and I'm glad of it. It was never my favourite task in a build and while I admit it's been some time since I did it last, I don't recall it being so difficult. I'm reasonably certain that's to do with the decals themselves. The academy decals have many irritating qualities. Thick, disinclined to stick to anything except its own decal sheet and despite the thickness, very fragile. I'm glad that only 3 of them were wrapped around difficult curves and required trimming. Somehow they also refused to cut cleanly, despite using a brand new scalpel blade. I don't want to imagine how much worse it would have been without mark set or decal softener. I'll be glad to have them under a few coats of clear in the next few days. I'm looking forward to the weathering and wash process since I haven't done either before. Problem found. They don't really react to softener in my experience
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Feb 18, 2019 16:55
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Carth Dookie posted:Decal work on the P47 is 90% complete and I'm glad of it. It was never my favourite task in a build and while I admit it's been some time since I did it last, I don't recall it being so difficult. I'm reasonably certain that's to do with the decals themselves. The academy decals have many irritating qualities. Thick, disinclined to stick to anything except its own decal sheet and despite the thickness, very fragile. I'm glad that only 3 of them were wrapped around difficult curves and required trimming. Somehow they also refused to cut cleanly, despite using a brand new scalpel blade. I don't want to imagine how much worse it would have been without mark set or decal softener. I'll be glad to have them under a few coats of clear in the next few days. I'm looking forward to the weathering and wash process since I haven't done either before. I've built the very same kit a while ago but went for the other decal option (which has some more wrapping) and can confirm those decals had similar issues for me. They also suffer from being very slightly transparent for the white bits which was even more annoying as it's visible on the finished model if you look closely. The size also seemed slightly off from what it should have been.
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Feb 18, 2019 16:57
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Before I head to ebay, does anyone have a decal sheet for a 1:48 F4 they'd be willing sell? Sundowners or Death Angels preferably, but I'd be interested in whatever; my set has yellowed.
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Feb 18, 2019 18:58
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Ensign Expendable posted:Finally, the Mark V is finished, photographed, and on my shelf. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this project. Nice work! https://i.imgur.com/1laZqty.gifv
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Feb 18, 2019 20:30
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Going to see those tanks is what inspired me to start this kit, actually. Shame I was too late to ever see them running again, the museum stated that they will no longer take their WWI tanks out 
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Feb 18, 2019 20:37
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Ensign Expendable posted:Going to see those tanks is what inspired me to start this kit, actually. Shame I was too late to ever see them running again, the museum stated that they will no longer take their WWI tanks out They Shall Not Grow old has a bit of restored tank footage. Not a whole lot, but its worth watching that documentary anyway.
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Feb 18, 2019 20:41
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Jonny Nox posted:Problem found. Smoke posted:I've built the very same kit a while ago but went for the other decal option (which has some more wrapping) and can confirm those decals had similar issues for me. They also suffer from being very slightly transparent for the white bits which was even more annoying as it's visible on the finished model if you look closely. The size also seemed slightly off from what it should have been. Good to know that it wasn't just my ring rust. It also validates my decision to mask and paint the tail rather than try to use the decals.
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Feb 18, 2019 22:42
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