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It's $4. Something twice that much is $8. How badly do you really need to cheap out on tools?
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Feb 27, 2019 00:42
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Javid posted:It's $4. Something twice that much is $8. How badly do you really need to cheap out on tools? He rasped 
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Feb 27, 2019 01:05
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Lol
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Feb 27, 2019 01:11
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Bob Mundon posted:I know Harbor Freight isn't exactly a go to around here, but is there any reason to avoid something as simple as a rasp from them? E: because the reviews on HF stuff are always funny (the handles apparently fall off): A reviewer posted:Sharpens well...handles suck Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Feb 27, 2019 |
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Feb 27, 2019 01:30
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Ok a touch cutesy-pretentious, but it’s all about the “sale” when it comes to fundraising auctions, right?
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Feb 27, 2019 02:16
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Javid posted:It's $4. Something twice that much is $8. How badly do you really need to cheap out on tools? Answer: as much as possible. Probably not that badly though, point taken. Thanks everyone for slapping sense into me.
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Feb 27, 2019 02:19
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I spent like $9 on a long rasp with swappable blades at Home Depot when I needed one and it's served me well for quite a while.Feenix posted:Ok a touch cutesy-pretentious, but it’s all about the “sale” when it comes to fundraising auctions, right? The kind of people who attend charity auctions are exactly the crowd that kind of marketing is aimed at. Let us know how much that beautiful piece goes for!
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Feb 27, 2019 02:29
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Javid posted:
exactly. You did good imo
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Feb 27, 2019 02:57
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Just impulse purchased a tablesaw from Aldi for $100. I know its not going to be great, but I have been wanting a table saw for ages, and options in Australia are limited to say the least. Probably going to build my own stand for it, and add some safety features like a riving knife, but pretty excited about it.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:10
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NPR Journalizard posted:and add some safety features like a riving knife
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Feb 27, 2019 04:13
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I'm the idiot that doesn't measure twice and screwed up a zero clearance insert on my DeWalt contractor saw. I went to cut the notch for the riving knife and extended the slot on the wrong end. Also with the way the fence runs on a cogged rail, there wasn't a very good place to clamp a board over the insert to hold it down while I cut the insert, and the fencer doesn't sit flush to the surface to hold the insert down... So when I eventually order a new insert I'd appreciate some advice on how to clamp a board to the table top and hold the insert down while I cut it.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:26
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MetaJew posted:I went to cut the notch for the riving knife and extended the slot on the wrong end. hahaha
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Feb 27, 2019 04:33
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Congrats on your two zero clearance half plates I guess? 
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Feb 27, 2019 04:39
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MetaJew posted:I'm the idiot that doesn't measure twice and screwed up a zero clearance insert on my DeWalt contractor saw. The red text works well here. I almost did the same thing lol.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:40
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Bad Munki posted:......how do you plan to do that? Havent worked that bit out yet, but it will be a good thinking exercise anyway.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:41
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MetaJew posted:I'm the idiot that doesn't measure twice and screwed up a zero clearance insert on my DeWalt contractor saw. What? Harry Potter on Ice posted:hahaha agreed
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Feb 27, 2019 04:50
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MetaJew posted:I'm the idiot that doesn't measure twice and screwed up a zero clearance insert on my DeWalt contractor saw.
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Feb 27, 2019 04:51
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MetaJew posted:I'm the idiot that doesn't measure twice and screwed up a zero clearance insert on my DeWalt contractor saw. 1. put the insert in 2. adjust the leveling screws on the insert so it's level with the top of your table 3. move your fence on top of the insert but not on top of the blade 4. start the saw and raise the blade
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Feb 27, 2019 05:00
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Javid posted:
Thanks! I will. Honestly, the school is a great school but serves a lot of families with lower income. It’s going to be a fairly casual affair. (I’ve been to some ridic. auctions in my time...) I’ll just be pleased to see the school get some money for it, and hopefully someone feeling like they scored on a unique-ish piece. (That said, it’s a paddle auction, not a silent one, and I don’t know if my fragile sense of accomplishment can take low bids. I may instruct my wife or someone to at least bid 50 on it. Heh.
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Feb 27, 2019 05:51
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Sockser posted:1. put the insert in  The rack and pinion on the bottom that the fence rides on is not a good place to clamp to, and the aluminum fence isn't all that stiff. In addition, there's a bit of a gap between the surface of the table top and the bottom of the fence. So, when I initially tried this, the zero clearance insert pushed out of the throat. This caused the insert to tilt off axis just slightly and seemed kinda sketchy. Maybe this is fin, but it doesn't seem ideal. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Pretty easy to roll your own out of some 3/8” (or whatever thickness the insert is) plywood with some veneer shims to get it just right. Carpet tape the original to the plywood and band/jigsaw+flush trim rout. As for clamping it down-just clamp a board over it? Not sure how that part is at all hard. I suppose that's not a bad idea. I did recently get a router, but I don't have a router table so flush trimming it would be a bit awkward.  This is the insert, it has a few little barbs/teeth to try and lock itself under the table. Mr. Mambold posted:What? There really isn't any good clamping surface on this type of surface, unless I'm just missing something.
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Feb 27, 2019 06:12
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MetaJew posted:
I've just done this twice the past few weeks on the same saw Get the fence on the left side of the blade
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Feb 27, 2019 06:14
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Sockser posted:I've just done this twice the past few weeks on the same saw I'll try that if I get around to getting another insert. I had the fence a few millimeters to the right of the blade when it pushed out. I guess since the arbor is on the left side, putting the fence on the left would be a good idea.
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Feb 27, 2019 06:16
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Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo?
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Feb 27, 2019 06:19
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If the fence rides above the surface, jam a shim inbetween the surface and the insert to hold it down?
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Feb 27, 2019 06:22
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Sockser posted:Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo? My gut feeling on your drawing is that I would just keep the tapered part as you have it drawn and make the cabinet bigger to cover the straight part of the leg, but draw it with a longer taper too-it might look better MetaJew posted:
Why not just take the fence off and clamp a board from left to right across the saw if there’s nothing to clamp to (and I promise, with big enough clamps there is always something to clamp to)? .
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Feb 27, 2019 07:15
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Sockser posted:Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo? If you are keen on building jigs then go ahead, but they certainly aren’t necessary. I tapered the legs on a bedside table and hall stand using a hand plane. Didn’t take long at all, and you can get an idea of the shape as you go, giving your more options if you want to stop early.
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Feb 27, 2019 12:44
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Sockser posted:Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo? It's about proportions and how the lines lead into each other. As someone else mentioned, try and get the taper to run up to the cabinet closer. Right now you have kind of squat legs and a tall cabinet. Are there space concerns making you do two shelves instead of one long shelf?
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Feb 27, 2019 16:03
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Sockser posted:Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo? I feel like tapering with those proportions of cabinet to legs isn't really going to help unless you can extend the taper into the cabinet itself. AIUI tapering is about visually slimming the piece, making it look lighter / more graceful. But with the leg length you have there, about all you can accomplish with tapering is make the legs look too thin for the bulk they have to support. I will also say that I think tapering is one of those things where you don't need much of it. I put a half-inch taper on a 30"-long square leg (from 1.5" down to 1") and I think that's probably about right for the design I was going for (don't have photos handy right now, sorry). It's more about subconscious visual impressions than it is about people being able to look at it and see "oh yeah, that leg is tapered".
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Feb 27, 2019 17:21
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Sockser posted:Is there a formula to making tapered legs look good? Friend wants to make a wee liquor cabinet and this is an excuse to build a tapering jig, but my design looks kinda..... poo poo? I'd eliminate that knee break- technically, not a joint- make it smooth and tapered, but it's a matter of what's pleasing to the eye- specifically your friend's eye.
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Feb 27, 2019 18:16
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Made the desk top over the last weekend and it went really well. T&H was great, nice staff, and has a shitload of solid wood and sheetgoods. They had 5/8" Baltic Birch which was the perfect thickness for the desk, glued and screwed it with 1" screws on a 6"x6" grid starting 3" from the edges. Cut it to the final dimensions of 58"x28". Only part that could be better was the paint. Did you know that you're supposed to leave latex paint alone once you lay it down? I didn't. Some spots are nice and smooth, some are pretty rough. Might end up repainting this weekend. Thanks for the advice, especially on the baltic birch! Next project is to make is a dresser to fit in my closet under my clothes rack. Debating on re-purposing the dressers I have by just cutting down a drawer, or building something from scratch. The dresser's are made out of melamine'd particle board, so not sure how paintable that is. The particle board seems to be really low quality too, and is attached by weird pegs that have a turning nut that grabs it from the side. Really wobbly and crap all around. If I do build my own, I'm thinking something like this https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/a972e3cb-e81b-4025-84d7-46b2a5f17093/Dresser-Mk2 Not sure how to do the corners really, I have them as rabbeted, but I would need a lot of clamps to do this all at once. My googling leads me to believe that hardwood plywood would probably be the best bet for painting. Ideally no screws, but not really married to that since it'll be painted anyway.
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Feb 28, 2019 07:42
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Radial Arm Saws. A good / bad idea? I was thinking of trying one out since the thing I hate about my miter saw is that it can't sit flush against the wall, and I don't want to shell out $600 for the Bosch Glide. But like $75 or $100 for an old radial arm saw seems maybe worth a gamble?
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Feb 28, 2019 21:53
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Tres Burritos posted:Radial Arm Saws. A good / bad idea? Someone earlier in the thread was even using theirs to rip wood. If you need a ton of 90* cuts, I can see it being pretty handy. Are these pretty finicky to tune into odd angles?
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Feb 28, 2019 22:18
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They're more dangerous than other kinds of saw. You get versatility in exchange, but personally I find them sufficiently scary that I stay away. If you're not going to use that versatility, though, then I question why you'd get one. Surely you can solve your storage issues some other way?
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Feb 28, 2019 22:21
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Tres Burritos posted:Radial Arm Saws. A good / bad idea? If you’re willing to come to the Philly burbs to pick it up you can have mine for free
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Feb 28, 2019 22:31
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Tres Burritos posted:Radial Arm Saws. A good / bad idea? They are big and take up a lot of room and can't make compound miter cuts. Your better off just building some cabinets around your miter saw to utilize the space.
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Feb 28, 2019 22:34
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I don't post Workstuff here often but I figured this would be pretty funny. I spend a lot of winter running around hauling trees out of the woods (storm damage, root lifts, dangerous trees, etc) and milling them. I'm working on a gigantic 12' wide curved boardwalk/overlook and since I need to rip giant wedges to deck around the curve, I've started milling slabs and cutting them down in the field. It.. pains me a little. Typically use white oak, ash, walnut and cherry with a side order of red elm when I can find it.   13' long cherry, 2" thick and about 19" wide 
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Feb 28, 2019 23:13
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Can I have your cut offs?
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Mar 1, 2019 00:20
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JEEVES420 posted:They are big and take up a lot of room and can't make compound miter cuts. Oh contraire, Senor, but they can. It's cludgy, but radial arms are the original compound miter cut makers. The problem with a lot of the older ones is they have some slop up to 1/2 degree or more, and you can't cinch it down and it's infuriating.  edit- before DeWalt was known for anything else at all, before cordless was even on the drawing boards, their 12" radial arms were the thing to have if you built cabinets and trim on site. Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Mar 1, 2019 |
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Mar 1, 2019 00:21
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Mr. Mambold posted:Oh contraire, Senor, but they can. It's cludgy, but radial arms are the original compound miter cut makers. The problem with a lot of the older ones is they have some slop up to 1/2 degree or more, and you can't cinch it down and it's infuriating. That is what Dewalt started as, they made the first from what I can remember. I didn't think they could do the compound cuts, miter yes. I havent even seen one in probably 20 years though. My grandfathers scared the poo poo out of me as a kid, big rear end blade just spinning freely no guards.
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Mar 1, 2019 00:30
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Hypnolobster posted:I don't post Workstuff here often but I figured this would be pretty funny. I spend a lot of winter running around hauling trees out of the woods (storm damage, root lifts, dangerous trees, etc) and milling them. I'm working on a gigantic 12' wide curved boardwalk/overlook and since I need to rip giant wedges to deck around the curve, I've started milling slabs and cutting them down in the field. Tres Burritos posted:Radial Arm Saws. A good / bad idea? JEEVES420 posted:That is what Dewalt started as, they made the first from what I can remember. Take the guards off your saws on occasion to remind yourself what a terrifying beast you are actually using:  Back when my shop was shiny and clean and not covered in dust:  
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Mar 1, 2019 01:07
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