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what site's that on? im gonna order it. it looks tight as hell, group build or no
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Mar 14, 2019 02:11
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| # ? Jun 5, 2024 20:59 |
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If anyone wants to share in the misery of 1/72 WWI kits, this dude has a bunch up for $5-10 each: https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUGE-colle...t=true#shpCntId
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Mar 14, 2019 02:23
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:what site's that on? im gonna order it. it looks tight as hell, group build or no I saw it on Hobbylinc.
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Mar 14, 2019 02:30
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Yooper posted:Thanks! Hasn't the Huey Hog claimed the lives of enough model-builders already? 
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Mar 14, 2019 10:20
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Hasn't the Huey Hog claimed the lives of enough model-builders already? 
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Mar 14, 2019 10:46
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Yooper posted:Thanks! The Kiowa is pretty decent considering its origins as a 1987 Matchbox kit, I built it a few years ago. It's pretty tiny though, hence the low price. The Kamov appears to be not too bad from what I can find actually, just thick clear parts, low level of detail and sloppy casting of the mold if it's the Eastern Express version. I'd be up for a helicopter crapbuild if I can find the mold locally, I've already been a bit too spoiled with decent to good kits for a while now. EDIT: This might be a decent candidate. Old kit, reasonably interesting design, cheap, molded in a terrible color. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/revell-04833-eurocopter-bk-117-space-design--225809 As a sidenote: I finished moving my kits except for the big ones last weekend, managed to get everything done neatly by using my empty Ikea nightstands and a big sheet of bubble wrap. Only a few tiny parts came off, and they came off neatly enough that repairs will only take a minute or two each. Overall out of 29 kits transported 22 made it without any issues, and the biggest part that came off was a wheel off the landing gear of a Twin Otter. Smoke fucked around with this message at 11:38 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 11:32
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:AUSTRALIA There's also Frontline Hobbies, and now that I'll be working again I plan to visit Hobby Habit in person this winter to see what it's like, since it's more or less around the corner from a mate's place.
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Mar 14, 2019 11:46
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NTRabbit posted:There's also Frontline Hobbies, and now that I'll be working again I plan to visit Hobby Habit in person this winter to see what it's like, since it's more or less around the corner from a mate's place. Hobby Habit is the best place for Tamiya paints. The daws road store has the bigger range.
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Mar 14, 2019 11:49
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Would plastic dropper bottles be okay to put Tamiya paint in? I've been looking at plastic droppers or glass bottles with pipettes. Not sure if the alcohol base would eat into the plastic.
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Mar 14, 2019 15:50
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Would plastic dropper bottles be okay to put Tamiya paint in? I've been looking at plastic droppers or glass bottles with pipettes. Not sure if the alcohol base would eat into the plastic. Lol I know from first hand experience that it will make a nasty mess. Tamiya surface primer turned these jars I had been using for my acrylics into a frothy liquid in just over 14 hours.
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Mar 14, 2019 20:19
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Gay Weed Dad posted:Lol I know from first hand experience that it will make a nasty mess. Tamiya surface primer turned these jars I had been using for my acrylics into a frothy liquid in just over 14 hours. Figured as much! Found a website that sells an exhaustive range of different sized bottles and wouldn't really mind the cost per bottle just for the convenience of having a pipette in each one. https://www.ampulla.co.uk/Clear-Glass-Dropper-Bottles/c-33-235/ Not sure what the difference between CR TE and TE is though other than one being 3p cheaper. On the painting front I did the bombs, tips of the missiles & prop and a bit of the wheel assembly. Probably going to finish up all of those tomorrow and then wait for some supplies to arrive before I move onto the main body. Just limited by having no masking tape which you really don't think about till you need it and are plum out.
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Mar 14, 2019 20:36
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Yamato progress! Dat booty.  Superstructure  Bit of a beauty shot  No. 1 turret. The wood deck is great, it was just a hair off on the length though, thankfully Tamiya is smart and put the join between the two deck sections in the big mess of AA mounts, so you barely see where it doesn't fit perfectly. It's got a bit of a gap where it meets the flight deck, but I figure I can fill it in with cut down extra bits. The paint is just flat base right now, I tinkered with a bit of dry brushing on the bow and flight deck though. Now I just have to put on the million little small AA guns, ribs along the side of the hull, thin little struts, the mast, and railings. Then I'm going to rig the fucker, because why not.
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Mar 15, 2019 00:14
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Free air compressor acquired and at least switched on to make sure it works. Apart from the air hose being shot it appears to put out a pretty consistent flow of air. I’ll replace the airhose and see if the jumbo sized regulator and moisture trap work properly. Then all I’ll need is an airbrush which is oddly cheap if I get it from America rather than Australia. I think I’ve settled with a paasche talon which if I get it in a set will come with three needles and three air caps for different sized spray patterns.
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Mar 15, 2019 07:22
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Speaking of compressors, I've got an Iwata Mini Ninja jet that I'll be getting rid of. Yooper fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Mar 15, 2019 |
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Mar 15, 2019 16:46
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Enos Shenk posted:Yamato progress!  holy poo poo dude that is a wild number of parts and they all look perfect
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Mar 15, 2019 18:59
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That Kamov is from Amodel, and if it's anything like their DH60 that I'm currently struggling with it'll be a CrapKit. edit: I can't find a single review of it anywhere on the internet. That's encouraging. Unkempt fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Mar 15, 2019 |
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Mar 15, 2019 21:50
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Experimenting with pre shading. Kind of nerve wracking, but I guess if it looks like rear end I can just paint over it more thoroughly.
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Mar 16, 2019 03:28
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Carth Dookie posted:Experimenting with pre shading. If you're gonna go for a mottle-like preshading, you might want to consider blackbasing. Also, you might want to go over those center panels near and the landing gear with your base coat again. I've had the same sort of thing happen when I thinned the paint a bit too much and shot at too high of a PSI for it, and those pool-like marks will definitely show through the final coat. Edit: That Eduard 1/72 Spitfire I ordered came in. The price was low enough that I was slightly worried it was gonna be missing the photo-etch or something, but the kit is complete. I already have the RAF interior color, so I may as well start on the cockpit while I wait for the camo colors to be delivered. Symetrique fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 03:37
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Yeah I deliberately decided against using a black primer this time because I wasn't sure how much black would show through and I wanted the pre shading to be more subtle. I primed grey, ran the base coat, then did what you see there. Next is another layer of that green/pale blue (thinned). If the pooling shows up too much, I'll bury it.
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Mar 16, 2019 03:46
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Scut posted:
That looks like a lot of fun to paint and weather. I mean that seriously. What are you making?
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Mar 16, 2019 04:11
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My pre order kit from Japan is being released this week. Like a dum dum I didn’t pay for it when I ordered it. This wouldn’t be an issue apart from having to pay rego on the wife’s car this week. I think it should work out but we’ll have to see what happens.
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Mar 16, 2019 04:30
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I've made some more progress on the C9. I forgot to take images of the engine detailing but I'm pretty pleased with how it came out. Once I can get the dashboard attached I can put the front end of the body on which'll bring it that much closer to being completed and ready to hang out on the shelf with the rest of the cars.   
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Mar 16, 2019 08:51
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Nice engine. I'm reasonably happy with how this turned out. The black was too much I think. Thinner, softer lines next time. Other than that, not bad. Before and after shots: 
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Mar 16, 2019 10:28
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Does anyone have a good paint for general use for scratches? The metallic flakes of tamiya feel a little too large when I want to drybrush some wear or hit the edges with some scratching.
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Mar 16, 2019 14:19
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Anyone have any tips for getting mold lines/flash off of figures that were cast in softer plastics than the usual polystyrene/hard plastic? I posted a few days back about how I'd ordered some Airfix WW2 infantry, and when they arrived yesterday, I immediately remembered just why I'd given up on Reaper Bones figures from the miniature painting world: because mold lines on soft plastic figures are a pain in the nuts to remove cleanly. 
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Mar 16, 2019 15:08
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Does anyone have a good paint for general use for scratches? The metallic flakes of tamiya feel a little too large when I want to drybrush some wear or hit the edges with some scratching. Alclad II Polished Aluminum and Chrome both have very fine flakes, but they are meant for airbrush use. I wouldn't recommend them for general brush painting, but I think they would work fine for drybrushing. They are lacquer based, so you'd need some lacquer thinner to clean your brushes. Get your lacquer thinner from a hardware store, it is much cheaper than getting it from a hobby store.
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Mar 16, 2019 15:25
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I did see they had lacquer thinner in wilko's when I went looking for ethanol so maybe I'll pick up a bottle. Heck it doesn't even have to be metallic silver really just something to make the edges pop.
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Mar 16, 2019 15:37
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SkunkDuster posted:That looks like a lot of fun to paint and weather. I mean that seriously. What are you making? It's a display base to shoot models on. I'm also using it as a learning project to get some of my scratchbuilding skills buffed up. It's about 18 inches square. I've always loved Tsutomu Nihei's drawings and then I saw this surface from someone on twitter and knew I had to take a crack at it myself: https://twitter.com/maxi_1019/status/1011613790188662784 https://twitter.com/maxi_1019/status/1092071059254239232 I started with some sketches to get some ideas going and then just got into chopping up styrene and glueing: https://twitter.com/scutanddestroy/status/1095403441990578176 I've probably been working on it too long so maybe this weekend I'll try to wrap up the build and get on painting. Scut fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Mar 16, 2019 |
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Mar 16, 2019 15:54
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Finally finished the Tamiya bike after a bit of a break. The exhaust assembly on this was not pleasurable to work with; the parts were pre-chromed with some absurdly touch lacquer base - while I could strip the chrome easily enough, the base-coat would not shift with any chemicals I threw at it (oven cleaner, coke, brake fluid, diesel - nothing worked). In addition, something about the material meant the parts were wholly unwilling to cement - even when the adhesive did take, the parts would frequently pop apart again during sanding (and there was a hell of a lot of sanding!). As a consequence, this is as far as I'm going with it.  It was, otherwise, a really nice kit. Next up on the chopping board - saw this for essentially half-price on amazon and thought to hell with the backlog  also, this - 
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Mar 16, 2019 19:28
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Does anyone have a good paint for general use for scratches? The metallic flakes of tamiya feel a little too large when I want to drybrush some wear or hit the edges with some scratching. Sydney Bottocks posted:Anyone have any tips for getting mold lines/flash off of figures that were cast in softer plastics than the usual polystyrene/hard plastic? I posted a few days back about how I'd ordered some Airfix WW2 infantry, and when they arrived yesterday, I immediately remembered just why I'd given up on Reaper Bones figures from the miniature painting world: because mold lines on soft plastic figures are a pain in the nuts to remove cleanly.
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Mar 17, 2019 03:57
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I'm a big fan of Mr Metal Color, from Mr Hobby. Can be tough to find in north america though. I've heard AK's Xtreme Metal paints are supposed to be quite good too.
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Mar 17, 2019 04:00
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Arquinsiel posted:Givw up, regret your choices. You can carve away carefully with a scalpel but it will never be great. Don't even think about trying a file, it'll just create rubbery strings. It might be worth trying jeweler's files on some scrap. I have some files with the finest cut (6) from Vallorbe/Grobet, and they're fine enough to file down Green Stuff if you're careful. That stuff usually shreds itself if you so much as hold a file in its general vicinity. Good-quality files are one of the better hobby purchases I've made. (My all-time best purchase though is probably a set of good 61-80 gauge drill bits. I spent years on cheapo ones and I'm never going back.)
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Mar 17, 2019 06:14
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I'm a big fan of Mr Metal Color, from Mr Hobby. Can be tough to find in north america though. I've heard AK's Xtreme Metal paints are supposed to be quite good too. I use these paints too. So far the only places I've seen carry them in the states are: hobbyworld-usa Zoukei-Mura/VolksUSA https://www.gundamplanet.com/mr-metal-color-series-gloss.html https://www.usagundamstore.com/
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Mar 17, 2019 06:25
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So on the topic of removing mold lines, does anyone have recommendations for sanding grits I should pick up and in what form? My current sanding tools are needle files in coarse grade and then some sanding sticks in 200/300 range. Saw some videos where people would use 6000 to 8000 grit paper/cloth to get just the right amount of the mold lines off without deforming the part. Any recommended brands? I'm pretty overwhelmed at all the different papers, blocks, and strips of sanding materials out there.
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Mar 17, 2019 13:21
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Just go to a local automotive store or a store with an automotive section like Walmart and its ilk to find higher grit wet/dry sandpaper. I usually go from 400 grit up to 800 grit because it doesn’t matter too much if you are painting the kit. I’d go up to about 2000 if you want it unpainted.
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Mar 17, 2019 13:51
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Avenging Dentist posted:It might be worth trying jeweler's files on some scrap. I have some files with the finest cut (6) from Vallorbe/Grobet, and they're fine enough to file down Green Stuff if you're careful. That stuff usually shreds itself if you so much as hold a file in its general vicinity.
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Mar 17, 2019 15:49
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In regards to the soft plastic mold lines dilemma, I did some googling and ran across some advice on one of the many miniatures forums. One of the bits of advice was to take something like a paperclip or needle, heat it up using a candle, and then use that to carefully melt away the mold lines on the soft plastic figure. So I gave it a shot, and the results are...okay, I guess? Not sure if it's really worth the bother, at the end of the day. On the one hand, if you're careful, it definitely works far better than filing or scraping away. On the other hand it's pretty much a pain in the rear end because you have to be absolutely precise; one slip and your Airfix 8th Army figure or Bones miniature or whatever suddenly has new and exciting burn scars. On the other other hand, the candle I bought does make my room smell nice. 
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Mar 17, 2019 18:00
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Arquinsiel posted:I started out using aircraft grade tools due to parental work theft. The plastic used in the rubbery 1/72 kits is far softer than green stuff. It can be hard to even get it to stay in place for filing. Gross. I guess now I’m just glad the worst material I have to deal with is Bonesium.
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Mar 17, 2019 18:18
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Can you not warm them up then shock the pieces in cold water to stiffen them up? Isn't that something you can do to bones minis?
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Mar 17, 2019 21:38
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Ive had soft plastic figures go hard when I cleaned some old paint off them, i think it removed the softener in the plastic. I just cant remember if it was acetone, turpentine or something else...
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Mar 17, 2019 22:17
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