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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My old boss had this exact jointer (and a 16” Crescent that originally was line driven and ran on Babbitt bearings), complete with coat-hanger switch. It’s really a great jointer once you get it cleaned up/tuned up. Might be the capacitor on the motor-those go out a lot. The motor on his eventually gave up the ghost and I think we wound up just replacing it with a $150 1/2HP fan motor from Grainger. I love that old switch wire rig! It had a set of either new or just sharpened knives and I need to message him to make sure everything in the cutterhead is tight, check if it even has knives. We just futzed with it a few minutes, fence cinches up tight like new. Sucker is heavy!
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Mar 11, 2019 21:35
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Mr. Mambold posted:What is this nonporous sealant of which you speak? I get that a lot of basically-waterproof finishes, like polyurethane, aren't really 100% nonporous water seals. But I assume there's options... a bunch of layers of resin or acrylic, maybe? Coat the whole thing in lucite? e. probably just a healthy thick coating of epoxy would do it. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Mar 12, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 23:12
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I found a very useful chart/article one time about water vapor blocking properties of various wood finishes but I can’t find it now. The takeaway was that most wood finishes are actually very bad at blocking the movement of water vapor into/out of wood at the thickness normally applied to furniture (and consequently all that worrying about finishing both sides of a board is fairly overblown). However, with a whole lot of coats (like 6-8+?) polyurethane and epoxy were far better than lacquer or most other finishes. Completely coating the wood in very thick paraffin wax also worked well IIRC. Even those finishes didn’t stop it completely, but they did slow things down by 80% or something fairly significant.
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Mar 12, 2019 03:23
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Granite Octopus posted:
Broke my brain a little when I realized it. I also ran out of usable cherry, but luckily I had some walnut from a different project that I re-purposed. Granite Octopus posted:I do this all the time. Pretty easy to deal with though, I just used a utility and marking knife to cut out the waste where my chisel wouldnt fit. You can still do the oudside edges of the pins and tails with a chisel at least. Granite Octopus posted:If you are marking out and cutting your pins after you cut your dovetails this isnt a big deal either - they might just be off on one corner, and no one would notice. I changed my plan from 3 tails to 2 tails and opened up the space. The board I was using to create the stock left me enough wiggle room to create a few practice blanks so I reworked my setup. Granite Octopus posted:Good luck! Also it sounds like you didnt at least remove the non-waste portion of your dovetails yet, which seems to be a rite of passage for most woodworkers! In the end, I gave my wife her present in a last-minute bought gift bag and threw in some candy. She doesn't know I was making her a gift box so I'll keep working on it and surprise her later. At least now I have more time to make it presentable. Thanks for the encouragement. Here's where I am in the project right now: - A look at one of the sides.  - Fitting my first pins (note the marking fuckup on the opposite tails. My holdfast did a number on the face of the board as well...  - My coping saw couldn't deal with my poor craftsmanship either  - I cant cut to save my life. Might need to learn to sharpen my saw, but I'm terrified of loving up my second-hand veritas dovetail saw.  - Current state of affairs: [tigm]https://i.imgur.com/iEhRMqz.jpg[/timg] I'm saving all the dust for the glue-up. I hope that closes stuff up well. I'm not super sure how to do a lid, but for the bottom, I used a hand router, made a 1/8 inch rabbet on the inside perimeter of the box, and am going to drop in a 1/4 inch walnut square to give it a lift off the sitting surface and a smooth inside face. I need to sort out my vernacular, as I'm having trouble describing my design.  She's ugly, but goddamn, she'll do. Training wheels ahoy.
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Mar 12, 2019 16:09
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Its a homemade gift that looks good, she'll probably love it! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well sawdust and glue hide things. I mean YOU won't be surprised.. you'll be playing the stare at it from 3 inches away game trying to decide if its good enough. But everyone else who looks at it will love it and miss the mistakes 
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Mar 12, 2019 16:52
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Its a homemade gift that looks good, she'll probably love it! I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at how well sawdust and glue hide things. I know. I'm excited to give her the box. It'll be interesting to see how I get a lid on there. The bottom, I thought was genius. 11:45pm OH GOD I NEED TO FINISH THIS-Panic level genius 
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Mar 12, 2019 18:25
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Trying to decide on how to finish that pine coffee table, any recommendations that preferably won't make it look like plastic? I'll be staining it darker so figuring I'll need to condition it regardless, would shellac be a good choice as a base coat before the stain instead of just a straight wood conditioner? Any guidance on top coat? I like the idea of a water based varnish, but with 3 little kids I imagine that is asking for trouble. *Edit* It does have a few knots if that makes a difference on the shellac/conditioner decision. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Mar 13, 2019 |
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Mar 12, 2019 23:58
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Bob Mundon posted:Trying to decide on how to finish that pine coffee table, any recommendations that preferably won't make it look like plastic? I'll be staining it darker so figuring I'll need to condition it regardless, would shellac be a good choice as a base coat before the stain instead of just a straight wood conditioner? Any guidance on top coat? If you've got a test piece, you'd be surprised how nice poly can look if you go over it with some #0000 steel wool and then a coat of paste wax.
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Mar 13, 2019 16:03
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Bob Mundon posted:Trying to decide on how to finish that pine coffee table, any recommendations that preferably won't make it look like plastic? I'll be staining it darker so figuring I'll need to condition it regardless, would shellac be a good choice as a base coat before the stain instead of just a straight wood conditioner? Any guidance on top coat? 3 little kids and a softwood tabletop? The one I had in college looked like the moon by the time we were done with it.
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Mar 13, 2019 16:10
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swampface posted:If you've got a test piece, you'd be surprised how nice poly can look if you go over it with some #0000 steel wool and then a coat of paste wax. Good to know, noted. Any thoughts on the pre stain conditioner or shellac question? Cannon_Fodder posted:3 little kids and a softwood tabletop? The one I had in college looked like the moon by the time we were done with it. First project ever beyond sawhorses so wanting to keep it cheap in case I mess up and have to convert it into firewood. I did pick out the tightest ring pattern I could on the availabile pine but we'll see how it holds up. Still very much in the "this is why we can't have nice things" phase of life.
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Mar 13, 2019 17:56
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Pine is great for anything with kids. Build the joints solid and It'll get beat all to heck, but you will still send it off with them when they move out and they'll be glad for it. I just satin poly (or semi-gloss paint) all my pine and it's fine. There are entire books of 300-year-old, all-pine furniture. Nobody is going to mistake it for something you bought at Pottery Barn Kids. But I don't associate with many people who would rather their kids have a $1k bed than a $200 handmade bed and $800 in the college fund.
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Mar 13, 2019 18:04
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Yeah, pine will absolutely get dented and beat up, but there's a far cry between cosmetic damage and functional damage so I fully expect your table will hold up well for a long time. That said, I know "firewood" is thrown around a lot in woodworking, but do be aware that you shouldn't burn stuff that has finish or glue applied to it. That includes plywood and MDF, which both have a lot of glue involved in their manufacture.
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Mar 13, 2019 18:08
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Bob Mundon posted:
I'm sure she'll be a beaut. Last time I cut a pine table top, it was because I was using it as the work surface over which I was cutting a contour to a cherry table top I was working on. My dumb rear end put the coping saw through both table tops and only realized I'd hosed up around 6 inches into the cut. https://imgur.com/gallery/CRIckGv 
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Mar 13, 2019 18:14
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I'm sure she'll be a beaut. Cannon_Fodder posted:- My coping saw couldn't deal with my poor craftsmanship either If all you have is a coping saw everything looks like a... nail?
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Mar 13, 2019 18:23
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Bob Mundon posted:Good to know, noted. Any thoughts on the pre stain conditioner or shellac question? Just liberally round every corner a kid might conceivably crash into and you're mostly good. The process is called RL distressing, and better the table gets hurt than the kid. Harry Potter on Ice posted:If all you have is a coping saw everything looks like a... nail? You could have snarked his coping mechanism and that's the best you could do?
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Mar 13, 2019 18:36
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:If all you have is a coping saw everything looks like a... nail? You saw right through me. And to the table below.
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Mar 13, 2019 19:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:Just liberally round every corner a kid might conceivably crash into and you're mostly good. The process is called RL distressing, and better the table gets hurt than the kid. damnit Cannon_Fodder posted:You saw right through me. thats really good though
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Mar 13, 2019 19:42
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Got myself some basswood and oh my god it's like carving butter compared to the pine I've been using. Going to post my projects once it's done. Still just whittling for now until I can return home and start buying some tools. I have however started to learn how to spot good carving pine now that I know about the growth rings.
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Mar 14, 2019 01:42
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Thrasophius posted:Got myself some basswood and oh my god it's like carving butter compared to the pine I've been using. Going to post my projects once it's done. Still just whittling for now until I can return home and start buying some tools.   
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 02:13
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This was p good https://twitter.com/Nick_Offerman/status/1106047452157636608
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Mar 14, 2019 13:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, pine will absolutely get dented and beat up, but there's a far cry between cosmetic damage and functional damage so I fully expect your table will hold up well for a long time. Was joking, but useful information none the less. Attempted to make a mortise and tenon on some scrap. That.......did not go well but hey at least learning. Also, need a marking gauge stat. *Edit* Ugh, and I drove past a Woodcraft yesterday, closest one to me is 90 miles. Stupid $9 shipping. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-3-piece-marking-set-woodriver Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 14, 2019 |
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Mar 14, 2019 13:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I need to try some basswood sometime-its supposed to be the best. Some tulip poplar carves pretty well and the price is definitely right. I've been carving a fuckton of laurel leaves on mouldings in African mahogany lately and it's mostly pretty cooperative but sometimes the grain is interlocked and goes in wild directions and chips out. When it makes little springs off the V chisel even going sort of crossgrain you know it's gonna carve okay. That's looking pretty sweet, I love it. What are you going to be using it for? The difference is amazing, I'll cut into pine and I can feel as I'm going through each growth ring. Before I knew to choose pine with lots of spacing between the rings it was a pain in the rear end, it got better once I had more spacing but still felt like a chore. Basswood though was amazing, I carved so much faster and finished in half the time. The downside is that once it's oiled it doesn't have those beautiful rings like pine. Are there any woods that have a similar ease to carve as basswood but the aesthetics of pine?
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Mar 15, 2019 02:19
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Someone in the hood is giving away Batu scraps/cutoffs. Looks like decking planks. Do I need to worry about treatment etc or is it likely I can use it for any application?
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Mar 17, 2019 16:34
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Thrasophius posted:That's looking pretty sweet, I love it. What are you going to be using it for? The difference is amazing, I'll cut into pine and I can feel as I'm going through each growth ring. Before I knew to choose pine with lots of spacing between the rings it was a pain in the rear end, it got better once I had more spacing but still felt like a chore. Basswood though was amazing, I carved so much faster and finished in half the time. The downside is that once it's oiled it doesn't have those beautiful rings like pine. Feenix posted:Someone in the hood is giving away Batu scraps/cutoffs. Looks like decking planks. If its getting used for decking, presumably it’s hard and rot resistant, unlike a lot of its cousins. Shorea is a huge and variable genus so there probably is some hard stuff in there. It might have a funny smell that may irritate you if you’re particularly sensitive to that sort of thing, but most of the Shorea’s are pretty benign in that regard. I doubt it is treated chemically.
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Mar 17, 2019 17:35
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It’s a moulding in a fancy classical fireplace surround I’m building. Some pine (white pines mostly. Yellow pine carved like poo poo)) carves reasonably well, as does cypress. Generally softwoods won’t hold the level of detail that a fine grained hardwood like basswood will. Walnut also carves well and has fairly visible growth rings, but it’s fairly expensive. Thanks! I may avoid as it’s just scraps and I would most likely do something that kicked up a lot of sawdust vs just cutting to spec and nailing it together
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Mar 17, 2019 17:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It’s a moulding in a fancy classical fireplace surround I’m building I'd love to see the finished fireplace when you're done if you don't mind, sounds awesome! Feenix posted:Thanks! I may avoid as it’s just scraps and I would most likely do something that kicked up a lot of sawdust vs just cutting to spec and nailing it together If it's anything like ipe I built a deck out of it's going to be really hard, irritate your skin and very Not Good to breath in. I doubt the cutoffs are going to be much to work with but who knows
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Mar 17, 2019 17:47
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Agreed from the sounds it. Thanks lads.
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Mar 17, 2019 17:55
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Anyone got recommendations for plans for a chicken tractor for 3-4 hens? I asked over in the PI chicken thread too, but figured yall might have something as well.
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Mar 17, 2019 18:25
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Guys, I've been looking for weeks for a bandsaw on craigslist or facebook and just coming up blank on anything that meets all my requirements. So we got the Woodcraft mailer and they had a sale so I just brought home a brand new Rikon 10-324! I wasn't looking to spend $800, but I figure it'll either last me a lifetime, or have decent resale value if I take care of it, so gently caress it. We still have to rearrange poo poo in the garage to make room for it, but I can't hardly wait. 13" of resaw capacity!
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Mar 18, 2019 00:25
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Leperflesh posted:Guys, I've been looking for weeks for a bandsaw on craigslist or facebook and just coming up blank on anything that meets all my requirements. So we got the Woodcraft mailer and they had a sale so I just brought home a brand new Rikon 10-324! I wasn't looking to spend $800, but I figure it'll either last me a lifetime, or have decent resale value if I take care of it, so gently caress it. We still have to rearrange poo poo in the garage to make room for it, but I can't hardly wait.  Nice. How long till it shows up?
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Mar 18, 2019 00:32
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I drove it home! It's in the garage now, in its box. Some assembly required. We have to finish chores first and the corned beef is already on the stove and I'm sure to enjoy a guinness with it so, probably I'll make room and put it together tomorrow. Just realized I have no idea if it comes with a blade. I need to learn about bandsaw blades.
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Mar 18, 2019 00:51
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Leperflesh posted:I drove it home! It's in the garage now, in its box. Some assembly required. For blades, https://www.woodcraftbands.com They're super cheap and weld up good Starrett/Lenox blades, but they keep threatening to retire. Call them and they will get you what you need (hopefully you speak Appalachian American English). A 3/4" 2 TPI hook blade is a good ripping/resaw blade that cuts very aggressively and quickly. For smaller/curved stuff, 3/8" is a good size, with maybe 3 TPI and not as aggressive a rake. 90% of the time I use a 3/4" 2 TPI hook, sometimes I use a 1" of the same for heavy ripping/resawing, and then if I need the tighter curve radius (usually it easier to just make a bunch of relief cuts than it is to change blades) I put on a 3/8." In general, run the widest blade your saw will handle and that will cut the radius you need to cut. Wider blade = more tension= straighter, better cut. Getting the blade guides and tracking set up correctly is super important to having a saw that cuts well too. Take your time fiddling around with that. I've never had a dual speed saw (I thought just metal cutting saw did that?) but I'd run it at the higher speed all the time unless it was bogging down in something. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I'd love to see the finished fireplace when you're done if you don't mind, sounds awesome!
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Mar 18, 2019 05:04
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Two speeds is so you can put a metal blade on it and cut non-ferrous metals. They say non-ferrous because steel cutting you should probably use lube; you can get away with cutting thin plate if you take small cuts and then pull away the workpiece and let the blade cool. And of course it needs to be specifically a steel-cutting blade. I don't need to cut steel anyway, because I already have a portaband which does the job for my steel cutting purposes, but it's nice that if I want to I can set it up to cut aluminum, since my wife occasionally does some aluminum work. This saw takes 111" blades up to 3/4." Looks like I will probably start with like a 1/2" or 5/8" so 3tpi blade for all-around general work, and a big 3/4" 2-3tpi blade for resawing. Maybe pick up a high-tooth thin blade for scrollwork, if I need it at some point.
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Mar 18, 2019 05:14
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Leperflesh posted:Guys, I've been looking for weeks for a bandsaw on craigslist or facebook and just coming up blank on anything that meets all my requirements. So we got the Woodcraft mailer and they had a sale so I just brought home a brand new Rikon 10-324! I wasn't looking to spend $800, but I figure it'll either last me a lifetime, or have decent resale value if I take care of it, so gently caress it. We still have to rearrange poo poo in the garage to make room for it, but I can't hardly wait. That's a great saw. I got the green version of it years ago and it's been very trouble free.
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Mar 18, 2019 14:23
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I have an old Teak bed frame I'm trying to fix up and reinforce a little. One of the pegs has come out of the frame and I was curious what the best way to fix this might be. I've noticed that some but not all of the other pegs have been glued in some way since those pegs don't turn so I'm thinking something similar might work ok? Any suggestions on the right product?
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Mar 18, 2019 17:08
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have an old Teak bed frame I'm trying to fix up and reinforce a little. One of the pegs has come out of the frame and I was curious what the best way to fix this might be. I've noticed that some but not all of the other pegs have been glued in some way since those pegs don't turn so I'm thinking something similar might work ok? Any suggestions on the right product? That's particle board with a thin teak veneer. Idk how you can elegantly,
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Mar 18, 2019 17:14
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I have an old Teak bed frame I'm trying to fix up and reinforce a little. One of the pegs has come out of the frame and I was curious what the best way to fix this might be. I've noticed that some but not all of the other pegs have been glued in some way since those pegs don't turn so I'm thinking something similar might work ok? Any suggestions on the right product?
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Mar 18, 2019 17:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There’s not a great way, but the least bad option is just to fill the hole full of epoxy/epoxy putty and stick the dowel in there and hope it all lines up right when it sets. I'd probably take a forstner bit and enlarge the hole to the edge, put a bigger plug in there and off-center the bolt.
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Mar 18, 2019 18:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's particle board with a thin teak veneer. Idk how you can elegantly, It doesn't need to be elegant by any stretch of the imagination. This is the bottom of the headboard so it really just needs to be secure. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:There’s not a great way, but the least bad option is just to fill the hole full of epoxy/epoxy putty and stick the dowel in there and hope it all lines up right when it sets. Couldn't I partially slot it into the other board while it sets to make sure it stays lined up? Any particular epoxy better suited to this? Mr. Mambold posted:I'd probably take a forstner bit and enlarge the hole to the edge, put a bigger plug in there and off-center the bolt. This sounds like a sure fire way for me to gently caress it up on the first try but is what I assumed was the going to be the best solution.
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Mar 18, 2019 21:09
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The problem is that pressboard like that has the rough structural integrity of cardboard, and any attempt to unfuck that will likely just tear it out worse. Without seeing the actual joint, I'd be disinclined to try anything fancier than sitting a piece of actual wood on the inside of that corner and sinking some pocket screws through both pieces of fake-wood into the real wood.
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Mar 18, 2019 22:29
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