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Unkempt posted:You can also just pay people to do it for you, like these guys: The Bedlam creations guys are top notch. I got some custom 40k decals printed from them. Turn around was fast and the quality was great. Archer dry transfers are also an option for generic military markings.
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Mar 26, 2019 05:58
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Freed the Sopwith Camel from the version 1 jig and amazingly it didn't explode while cutting it off the struts. The tail skid and tail control surfaces will be done next. Also got some work done on the driver platforms of the Berlin tram. 
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Mar 26, 2019 16:56
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Greyhawk posted:Freed the Sopwith Camel from the version 1 jig and amazingly it didn't explode while cutting it off the struts. The tail skid and tail control surfaces will be done next. Am I understanding corretly that this is a 'proper' model in that even the materials are roughly correct? And if so, given it appears to be pretty large scale (1:24?) can you actually wire up the control surfaces to work? Ps - The dope used on fabric coated fuselages is the real inhalant, not this plastc glue stuff.
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Mar 27, 2019 12:08
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N17R4M posted:Am I understanding corretly that this is a 'proper' model in that even the materials are roughly correct? And if so, given it appears to be pretty large scale (1:24?) can you actually wire up the control surfaces to work? That is correct. The model is built entirely out of wood, metal and yarn. Scale is 1:16 and all the control surfaces will be wired up (it's a mock up though, they won't actually work)
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Mar 27, 2019 14:22
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Greyhawk posted:That is correct. The model is built entirely out of wood, metal and yarn. Scale is 1:16 and all the control surfaces will be wired up (it's a mock up though, they won't actually work) Oh that's sweet. I wonder if it's possible to wire it up to work at that scale... What's the manufacturer? I think you said it somewhere earlier in the thread, but I couldn't find the post.
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Mar 27, 2019 16:25
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Stupid newbie question. I saw somewhere that using a round file to sand off seams on the rounded parts of airplane fuselages is a good idea. Wouldn't it be better if I used a sanding sponge? I worry about flatting off the fuselage.
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Mar 27, 2019 16:46
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N17R4M posted:Oh that's sweet. I wonder if it's possible to wire it up to work at that scale... What's the manufacturer? I think you said it somewhere earlier in the thread, but I couldn't find the post. https://www.artesanialatina.net/en/heritage-models/59317-wooden-model-airplane-biplane-fighter-sopwith-camel-1-16-world-war.html With this one I wouldn't even try to get it working. The model is fairly fragile and the stresses would likely tear it apart. That being said, there is a kit available for building your own FULL SIZE Sopwith Camel for those with deep enough pockets and too much time. http://www.kipaero.com/sopwith-aeroplanes/sopwith-camel-kit/
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Mar 27, 2019 17:40
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Mar 27, 2019 17:58
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How much for a Bf-110?
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Mar 27, 2019 18:04
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MJP posted:Stupid newbie question. I saw somewhere that using a round file to sand off seams on the rounded parts of airplane fuselages is a good idea. Wouldn't it be better if I used a sanding sponge? I worry about flatting off the fuselage. It depends on how fine your file is. Some modeling and jewelry files are fine enough to leave a smooth finish. I'd recommend sticking to the sanding sponge. Apparently a SPAD is like 250k
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Mar 27, 2019 19:44
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I would like to note that that kit does not seem to include the engine
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Mar 27, 2019 19:51
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Super Waffle posted:I would like to note that that kit does not seem to include the engine Got you covered, fam. http://www.king-cart.com/kipmotor/category=Aero+Engine+Gnome
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Mar 27, 2019 19:59
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http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/airdromeorderform.html Aluminum instead of an authentic wooden frame, but a lot cheaper!
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Mar 27, 2019 20:08
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Symetrique posted:http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/airdromeorderform.html Why is no one selling Spitfires and Mustangs? I toured Jack Roush's Mustang facility 6 years ago and it was pretty neat, but nowhere near producing an airframe from scratch for some
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Mar 27, 2019 23:00
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Yooper posted:Why is no one selling Spitfires and Mustangs? Ahem.
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Mar 28, 2019 00:04
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$4500.00 seems awfully cheap for a.....ooohhhhhh.
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Mar 28, 2019 00:18
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Yooper posted:Why is no one selling Spitfires and Mustangs? The dream will always be to get one of those 70% scale WWII Fighter plane replicas one day, and buzz around. That said, I think I'll add the 1:16 Camel to the wishlist to buy when drunk one day.
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Mar 28, 2019 01:20
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So Baby's First Serious Focused Scale Modeling Attempt actually is proceeding. I proceeded to: -Scratchbuild a replacement instrument panel when the kit one went AWOL (nothing special - I just carved a small piece of sheet styrene, did the best I could to match it into the part of the cockpit where the panel would go, and scalpeled/Dremeled until it fit well) -Scratchbuild a replacement fin on a GBU when one broke off and went AWOL (protractor and ruler) -Mask a canopy using Parafilm, Molotow Liquid Mask, and Mr. Masking Sol, paint it, and successfully de-mask These may seem small but given that I've had issues with stuff like that before, it's VERY heartening. I can't vouch enough for the use of a #23 or #24 scalpel blade - as sharp if not sharper than an Xacto, curved for a little tighter control, and crazy cheap so you can just replace the second you think it's going dull. It's like $7 for 100 on Ebay and they come with a free #4 handle. Speaking of Spitfires, I don't really have that much of a passion for WWII fighters or really big planes but that's going to change in August when the Iron Maiden 1/32 Spitfire Mk. II drops. Doubly so if the pilot is Eddie.
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Mar 29, 2019 14:06
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Main camo painting done. Just some white and yellow to go.  Should have taken some updated pictures, the wing roots are blended into the fuselage much better than what is shown in the pictures there. :/
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Mar 30, 2019 12:20
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Basic painting done:   Wing roots much more blended. The yellow came out pretty well with minimal bleed. Only a few minor corrections required which should disappear when dry/weathered. Gloss coating next in anticipation of decals. Happy with the progress so far.
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Mar 31, 2019 10:52
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Ragequit my first ever model yesterday  I'd gotten an older Hasegawa tank kit off eBay (as in "from the 1980s" old), and construction was going along pretty smoothly...until I got to the upper hull, which was somehow slightly warped and curved. I don't have a hair dryer handy, so I was trying to just gently bend it... and the loving thing snapped clean in half. I was so pissed I threw the entire build in the trash.  On the plus side, it was only like $12 or so. So it's not like I pulled a "Doctor Faust builds the USS Reliant" and junked a kit I'd spent a couple hundred bucks on. But, it was still irritating.
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Mar 31, 2019 17:16
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Does anyone have any experience having something printed from shapeway? Specifically any of the metal materials?
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Mar 31, 2019 17:53
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Lizard Combatant posted:Does anyone have any experience having something printed from shapeway? Specifically any of the metal materials? I bought one of these from them and it's been great, fwiw.
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Mar 31, 2019 18:02
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Van Dis posted:I bought one of these from them and it's been great, fwiw. Cool, good to hear. I want to get a piece printed, mostly flat surfaces with a recessed design in a polished metal. How's the surface texture?
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Mar 31, 2019 18:11
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Lizard Combatant posted:Cool, good to hear. I want to get a piece printed, mostly flat surfaces with a recessed design in a polished metal. The piece I bought isn't a polished texture, but it's not supposed to be since it's for gripping. I'd bet for something custom they could make you a polished piece. It's worth asking them, anyway.
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Mar 31, 2019 18:33
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Van Dis posted:The piece I bought isn't a polished texture, but it's not supposed to be since it's for gripping. I'd bet for something custom they could make you a polished piece. It's worth asking them, anyway. Ah, fair enough. I noticed polished is an option. I'll just bite the bullet, it's pretty cheap. Thanks
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Mar 31, 2019 18:35
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So it turns out that during the move I managed to misplace the decal sheet for the 1:32 Revell Heinkel Salamander I've been working on. I hope it surfaces soon, at least I've got a decent stash of other kits to start on in the meantime.
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Mar 31, 2019 19:05
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This platz bmw kit that I’ve picked up should look pretty good once it’s done but it’s fighting me every step of the way so far. Every single component that I’ve fitted so far has required a fair bit of filing and sanding for it to fit into place. It has a pair of ducts on the side that don’t fit at all flush so I’ll have to fill and sand it to make it look like it does on the actual car though
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Apr 1, 2019 11:35
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For my gloss coat I'm using future. I've not glossed something this size before. I feel like I should just be throwing it on until it looks visibly wet but not so wet it's dripping off the model. I'm not sure if I got it totally right because it looks a bit orange peeley so I don't know if that's because it was too light a coat or the PSI wasn't high enough. Was just shooting it neat at 15psi.
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Apr 1, 2019 14:44
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When your joke video becomes a serious build quarter-way through https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8bw5KDPMhI Dude was pretty clearly surprised by the quality of the kit.
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Apr 3, 2019 16:09
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Sultan Tarquin posted:For my gloss coat I'm using future. I've not glossed something this size before. I feel like I should just be throwing it on until it looks visibly wet but not so wet it's dripping off the model. I'm not sure if I got it totally right because it looks a bit orange peeley so I don't know if that's because it was too light a coat or the PSI wasn't high enough. Was just shooting it neat at 15psi. I've been weirdly struggling with Gloss coating with Alclad Aqua Gloss. I think the key is def to put it on wet because after a few light coats it felt pretty pebbly except in the places where i thought i initially oversprayed.
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Apr 3, 2019 16:10
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Paragon8 posted:I've been weirdly struggling with Gloss coating with Alclad Aqua Gloss. I think the key is def to put it on wet because after a few light coats it felt pretty pebbly except in the places where i thought i initially oversprayed. I'm going to try and give it another coat or two because I can feel that there's some gloss there but it's not totally smooth. I ordered some cheap Alclad polishing cloths too that are super super high grit so I'm just going to give it a quick buff and that should smooth out any of the grainyness. Ordered a couple of kits for the pile too that 1/144 F-14 people were talking about earlier in the thread and the Zvezda 1/72 Su-33. Feels weird actually having a nice cockpit even if it is smaller than a gnats chuff. I dropped the back plate on the floor and while looking for it I found a drill bit I didn't know I'd dropped and it ended up being the perfect size to drill the holes in the seat.  
Sultan Tarquin fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Apr 3, 2019 |
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Apr 3, 2019 16:17
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I found a pretty nifty way to mask off yellow noses for bombs without having to cut a single piece of tape. It helped turn 16 1/72 scale Mk 82s from an hours-long cutting/masking session to something like 15-20 minutes. You will need: -Bamboo skewers, preferably the shorter size or just cut down a longer one -The rubber cover of an alligator clip (you can get them cheap at Harbor Freight - they sell a $3 package of alligator clips and clamps which make great airbrush parts holder skewers) -Poster tack/Blu-tac/Silly Putty/etc. Instructions and photo examples: https://imgur.com/a/COTOu2S?fbclid=IwAR1DGpi56q1ciIAjoqlg4Qkf3M4HfBTRqoAtEk25VKE_OaXmTQERa6JAtbo Credit goes to an old post I found via googling around last night for how to mask bombs. The poster mentioned using heat shrink tubing, which does sound like a useful idea - I may try it with making rings out of it to go over a couple of GBUs awaiting masking, then let it shrink and use that - but this was what I had on hand while looking for heat shrink tubing, lol It really does work well for this purpose, though - it's eminently adjustable, it keeps the bomb secure by virtue of the tack and the walls of the clip cover, it produces a sharp line, and above all, it's crazy cheap and done with stuff you probably have in and around your hobby bench already. Plus, it's scalable - these are 1/72 Mk 82s, so if you need a 1/48 or bigger bomb to go through the process, you can either push out the skewer more or flip the alligator clip around and reverse the procedure entirely.
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Apr 3, 2019 20:41
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Circle templates are also a pretty good tool for masking off bombs and propeller cones. A bit finicky to get them leveled out, but it's pretty consistent.
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Apr 3, 2019 21:17
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Just dip the tips in a pot of yellow paint, jeez
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Apr 4, 2019 03:42
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That was a productive week so far. Most importantly I finished the tail section of the Sopwith Camel from a structural point of view. Control lines will be added next.   Finished up the boarding platforms and drivers desks for the Berlin tram.    And lastly got some work in on the absurdly huge Back to the Future Delorean.   There's contacts in the hood and door seals which will activate hood and door lights when they are opened. Well, that's the plan anyway. We'll see how that works out.
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Apr 4, 2019 14:21
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Carth Dookie posted:Basic painting done: Who made that kit? It really is a beast.     I've started my first real kitbash vehicle. Like, barely started, but still, i think I can do this. It's going to be my own version of a 'Canavan' antigrav fighting vehicle from the game 'Brigador'. The underlying body is composed of a NASCAR that I've chopped the trunk off of, with the split halves of race boat upper hull added to rough-in the upper body form.  Here's a pic of the game model that I'm emulating. To give a general sense of the kind of feeling I ultimately want.
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Apr 4, 2019 15:52
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Scut posted:Who made that kit? It really is a beast. IXO Models, China. They usually do 1:18 completed models, but will produce 1:8 kits for partworks companies like Eaglemoss. They made my 1:8 Walter Wolf Countach and Citroen 2CV too.   
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Apr 4, 2019 15:59
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Scut posted:
Brigador kitbash 
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Apr 4, 2019 16:00
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Welcome, Brigador.
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Apr 4, 2019 16:02
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