|
Phy posted:the kind of engineer who takes benzos every day and tries to smuggle them into Saudi Arabia for work I appreciate this deep forums cut.
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2019 19:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
On the other hand,
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2019 19:36
|
|
|
Phy posted:If the writers of Wing had decided smart engineering decisions were more fun than shonen tropes, the "Tallgeese" wouldn't have existed, because the conditions that make it pilot-lethal would have been anticipated and mitigated during the design phase. idk man, I was light googling and there was all kinds of wacky races poo poo out there https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_X-planes eg the first Mach 3 pilot attempted a turn in his X-2, lost control, and unlike Chuck Yeager this pilot wasn't experienced enough to handle the G forces, so he couldn't activate his parachute and welp they cancelled that program god only knows what earlier attempts looked like before the Tallgeese then there's this thing which was designed to take off, fire everything, eject the pilot, and explode, which I think is the perfect description of the Leo
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2019 19:46
|
|
|
Dude, I do fully appreciate that experimental and military procurement programs are capable of letting cocaine (or porkbarreling, or bribes) make the decisions. I mentioned the F-16 because it solved precisely the Tallgeese's problem of lethal g-loading in a way that avoided the sealed-away super prototype trope. But I did say this: Phy posted:But I've kinda gotten away from my point here, which is that a mobile suit that has to reload its arms because Gun Too Stronk is a crazy idea that even the most coked-up weapons development project would shout down And you've reminded me that I'm probably wrong about that.
|
|
#
?
Mar 27, 2019 21:02
|
|
|
https://twitter.com/GordonRamsay/status/1111085289676525569
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2019 22:52
|
|
|
Post this to GWS.
|
|
#
?
Mar 28, 2019 23:39
|
|
|
That is excellent.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 00:10
|
|
|
That Gundam is so loving raw Amuro Ray could still pilot it! This is gold.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 00:26
|
|
|
Just wanted to bring up Gundam part replacement. My PG RX-78-2's ankle polycaps split many a year ago, and it's been sitting in a box ever since. I think someone here pointed to https://gundamreplacementparts.wordpress.com/ (or maybe it was a reddit thread that came up in a Google search), and I followed the instructions, found Bandai had the caps available, and used the middleman site to get them. It was expensive (2400 yen for 2 polycaps! Half was a service fee, another 700 was shipping), but they came in about a month. I probably wouldn't do it for anything but a PG or other kits in the $100+ range. The service fee (which is up to three parts) and shipping is pretty significant, especially when you can get an RG for $40. It'd suck buying a $40 kit to replace a single broken shoulder piece (like my Banshee Norn) but then you could probably sell it to another builder for kitbash parts or just experiment yourself.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 04:32
|
|
|
The real solution to Polycap replacement is to buy more Gunpla. Eventually you'll find a spare of what you need  .
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 04:41
|
|
|
Neddy Seagoon posted:The real solution to Polycap replacement is to buy more Gunpla. Eventually you'll find a spare of what you need I looked! I think these particular caps were only ever used in early Perfect Grade kits, and possibly only in this one kit. U-52. Through-hole for the shin peg, and a bowl-hole on either side for ankle pegs (the ankle bowl holes split for me). I actually have a little box of every spare polycap from every set I have, just in case, though. 
Pyroclastic fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Mar 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 04:54
|
|
|
If I've learnt anything from building its to cut every polycap that's not used off and keep them in a safe location.
|
|
#
?
Mar 29, 2019 07:17
|
|
|
I just got my March PB shipment today with the limited edition waterslides you got for ordering Gunblaster and interestingly enough, it's not just Shrike and LM decals. It also has decals for Zanscare and Bespa. Please Bandai, please let this be a thing and not just an aside.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 13:13
|
|
|
Kinda disappointing that the Qan[t] Full Saber comes with two giant modular swords but you can't combine them into one even bigger sword
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 15:42
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:I just got my March PB shipment today with the limited edition waterslides you got for ordering Gunblaster and interestingly enough, it's not just Shrike and LM decals. It also has decals for Zanscare and Bespa. Please Bandai, please let this be a thing and not just an aside. There's also those cute tiny Den'an Zon things coming out. I hope this means I'll get to build a berga ghiros before I die.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 19:46
|
|
|
I've been using Vallejo Model Color Ivory for some off-whites (the Kimaris Vidar for example and an entire bandai X-wing) and boy is that stuff poo poo. It constantly clogs my airbrush and thins into a half-too-thin, half-cloggy-solid-mass soup. I went to the store and picked up a new bottle today thinking it was simply because my original bottle was a few years old and nope, still garbage. I got some model air colors as well to try out since I've had mixed success thinning on my own but of course there's a more limited selection of color. Anyone else have bad experiences with vallejo? Their grey primer is a headache too. Zodack fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Mar 30, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 21:36
|
|
|
Zodack posted:I've been using Vallejo Model Color Ivory for some off-whites (the Kimaris Vidar for example and an entire bandai X-wing) and boy is that stuff poo poo. It constantly clogs my airbrush and thins into a half-too-thin, half-cloggy-solid-mass soup. I went to the store and picked up a new bottle today thinking it was simply because my original bottle was a few years old and nope, still garbage. Vallejo paint needs a significantly higher PSI in my experience. Once I do that, the clogs stopped. I never had much luck thinning it, either. I still use Vallejo primers, because they're pretty easy, and I haven't seen any others that come in the big bottles. The gray comes out powdery, the white comes out super thin and likes to pool with the slightest provocation. The black is solid. For paint, I've moved much more to Tamiya. It requires thinning and mixing, but the end result is a lot better in my opinion. Still need to try a couple of other types I've bought. I pretty much stick to acrylics though.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
I would love to use Tamiya but there just isn't a good supplier near me and I've had bum luck looking online for any. My experience is 80% of the time it thins just fine and I get nice coats, but this is like I thin the paint and even when mixing and pouring I can see it is essentiall 50% thinned paint, 50% clumps. I'm spraying at 25 PSI right now which was recommended but I've only got one painted kit under my belt as far as airbrushing goes so I can bump that up to see what happens. Mostly the clogs seem to be those bigger chunks sticking to the needle. A higher PSI might blow them off but then I'd worry they'd stick to my piece. I've already had a bit of that happen already. I just recently got black primer from Vallejo and I agree, it's awesome. But then putting light colors over it I feel like I have to use a ton of coats and that for gunpla especially light grey/grey is the way to go?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 23:16
|
|
|
Zodack posted:I would love to use Tamiya but there just isn't a good supplier near me and I've had bum luck looking online for any. If it's chunky like that, it's really not a good paint. I've got a few bottles of model masters like that. Might be that the color is more prone to it, or there's a bad batch or something, but I've definitely not seen anything like that. I tend to spray Vallejo Mecha un-thinned. As for primer colors, I use white if I'm going for a pure white. Grey for most colors, including anything but pure white. Black for metallic or anything I want to be a bit darker.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 23:26
|
|
|
Zodack posted:I would love to use Tamiya but there just isn't a good supplier near me and I've had bum luck looking online for any. Black for metallics and blacks, white for white and yellow, and gray for everything else works well for me.
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 23:27
|
|
|
Zodack posted:I would love to use Tamiya but there just isn't a good supplier near me and I've had bum luck looking online for any. Mr Hobby Aqueous is a good alternative to Tamiya. There is also the newer water-based Acrysion line, but those are harder to find. Are you in the US?
|
|
#
?
Mar 30, 2019 23:34
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:Mr Hobby Aqueous is a good alternative to Tamiya. There is also the newer water-based Acrysion line, but those are harder to find. Yeah, I'm in the US. East coast, NC. I've got access to a comic shop with a ton of Vallejo Model Color and Model Air. I'm going to be checking out another shop tomorrow to see what they have, and also cross my fingers their stock has builder parts and I can find a gem or two. Midjack posted:Black for metallics and blacks, white for white and yellow, and gray for everything else works well for me. Thanks, this is (roughly) what I have been following sans white primer. Just not a huge fan of the Vallejo grey so I've been looking for excuses to not use it, haha. EVGA Longoria posted:If it's chunky like that, it's really not a good paint. I've got a few bottles of model masters like that. Might be that the color is more prone to it, or there's a bad batch or something, but I've definitely not seen anything like that. I tend to spray Vallejo Mecha un-thinned. Well I did purchase them from the same store, but probably 1-1.5 years apart so I'm going to chalk it up to Ivory being garbage.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 01:11
|
|
|
Zodack posted:Yeah, I'm in the US. East coast, NC. I've got access to a comic shop with a ton of Vallejo Model Color and Model Air. I'm going to be checking out another shop tomorrow to see what they have, and also cross my fingers their stock has builder parts and I can find a gem or two. https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/browse.php?s=3&t=1&u=1&pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&man=TAM This is where I purchase Tamiya and Mr Hobby. Prices are around $2.40/23ml or $1.80/10ml for the large/small Tamiya bottles (theres a weird thing with Tamiya product prices that requires you to add them to cart before the actual price pops up). They ship out of New Hampshire. The shipping and processing can be a bit slow though, since they ship with UPS surepost and usually take 2 days to process in-stock items. They dont stock gunpla, but they carry a lot of different paint lines at very competitive prices.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 02:09
|
|
|
I find that white primer works best for red hues. Red has this weirdo but trademark lightness to saturation thing where by simply changing the undertone will drastically affect the finished coat from a distance. With other hues added in the mix you're constantly balancing between rosey, orange or blood red, and how bright or dark it comes off. White primer makes the whole process simpler.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 05:15
|
|
|
Just use more red!
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 05:16
|
|
|
Thanks all. I'm gearing up for my first mild kitbash and custom paint job. Very quickly learning the difference between old and new kits. I'm trying to bash the AGE-1 and I think that kit is a whopping 8 years old.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 05:26
|
|
|
Zodack posted:Thanks all. I'm gearing up for my first mild kitbash and custom paint job. Very quickly learning the difference between old and new kits. I'm trying to bash the AGE-1 and I think that kit is a whopping 8 years old. Yep. But the difficulty with kitbashing it isn't just due to that. The first kits with modern joint structure date all the way back to 2009. Even some AGE suits stick to that. It's just that the Gundam compatible suits all use a different arm structure for some reason.
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 08:45
|
|
|
That's exactly what I discovered yesterday. Legs and waist, no problem. Arm? Good luck finding anything that matches. I was hoping to use a Leopard Da Vinci shoulder but they vary wildly from the AGE shoulder build. E: Went to check out the other hobby store ~30 minutes from me and not only did they have a double wall of Gunpla but they also carried Tamiya acrylics. What a find. They even do build days on Sunday, so I got to see some guys kitbashing and chatting. I have given into cowardice and decided to kitbash something else as the trepidation of messing with an older kit like the AGE-1 and potentially also ruining my favorite suit in a bash gone wrong got the better of me. Zodack fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Mar 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 16:54
|
|
|
My friend in Japan sent me a video of him playing Zeta Gundam Pachinko and then sent me a snapchat of a store display of the Red Frame Astray. How should I go about sinking his finances and get him hooked on plastic crack?
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 19:50
|
|
|
Arcsquad12 posted:My friend in Japan sent me a video of him playing Zeta Gundam Pachinko and then sent me a snapchat of a store display of the Red Frame Astray. Odaiba was a pretty rad area in general and the Gundam Statue and Gundam Base definitely are good at throwing someone in the deep end with Gunpla overload and visually cool stuff that if it still doesn't click with them by the end of their run around they probably won't get into it imo
|
|
#
?
Mar 31, 2019 21:14
|
|
|
Arcsquad12 posted:My friend in Japan sent me a video of him playing Zeta Gundam Pachinko and then sent me a snapchat of a store display of the Red Frame Astray. In terms of recommendation? maybe in HG the origin Zaku II which is a beautiful build. I also love how simple and clean the Lightning gundam looks, paired up with the one of the upgrade backpacks. In RG you could have him get the Astray, or a z'gok. MG there are so many choices and although it's not my favorite suit, the 2.0 Freedom gundam is a solid choice. Unrelated, it's a clip of some japanese dudes doing the "assemble an old rear end kit with scratch-built upgrades". You don't need to know japanese to get the gist of things: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezG1ieN_Fls
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 00:03
|
|
|
Last years April Fools brought us Cat Weapons. This year, it's Kei Truck Weapons. https://twitter.com/HobbySite/status/1112374000708014080?s=19 Somehow I doubt they're actually going to make this one but I kinda actually want it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 02:14
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:Last years April Fools brought us Cat Weapons. This year, it's Kei Truck Weapons. Never bet if you're not prepared to lose  .
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 02:24
|
|
|
Have you seen the latest Neko Busou releases, it's transcended robots into dinosaurs and it's glorious!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 03:00
|
|
|
GSI Creos' new Optical Camouflage Clear https://twitter.com/creoshobby_info/status/1112371414177177602?s=19
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 05:36
|
|
|
Feels like I’m airbrushing NOTHING AT ALL!
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 05:40
|
|
|
Old news, I've got an entire shelf of P-Bandai exclusives in my bedroom painted with that stuff. Sure, they're easy to lose but it's a neat effect. Sure, people new to the hobby insist I don't have anything on the shelf, but they just don't have the modeler's eye.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 15:09
|
|
|
So all the reviews say that the MG Dyanmes is fantastic so now I want the rest of the 00 gundams in mg form more than ever.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 17:00
|
|
|
Monaghan posted:So all the reviews say that the MG Dyanmes is fantastic so now I want the rest of the 00 gundams in mg form more than ever. The Virtue would be a frag bomb just from having to be able to turn into the Nadleeh.
|
|
#
?
Apr 1, 2019 17:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 27, 2024 04:15 |
|
|
I love this    
|
|
#
?
Apr 2, 2019 18:22
|
|