|
Jaded Burnout posted:I'm in the middle of some remedial carpentry and need to trim back a 2x4 in situ. What's the best way for me to do this without spending hours with a chisel, manually planing vertically (which I have trouble with), or spending a bunch of money on a power planer? It's about 1cm off plumb through about two thirds of the height, and can't be removed without causing a lot of problems. sawzall but... what is that 2x4 doing in your house? Goons have gotten themselves into "interesting" situations before without thinking all the way through what they are cutting. Is that a king stud or a trimmer. Probably doesn't matter I guess planer won't work anyway because you won't be able to use it clear to the floor or header Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Apr 6, 2019 |
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 15:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Speaking of pine, do you have to do anything special with knots? Have heard you need to seal them, but if you were finishing with a poly is there still something else you should do? Have read super glue, but that just seems weird. Got buried a couple pages back, anything I should know on this?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 15:59
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:I'm in the middle of some remedial carpentry and need to trim back a 2x4 in situ. What's the best way for me to do this without spending hours with a chisel, manually planing vertically (which I have trouble with), or spending a bunch of money on a power planer? It's about 1cm off plumb through about two thirds of the height, and can't be removed without causing a lot of problems. Otherwise yeah, sawzall. Whats that neon green stuff? E: Bob Mundon posted:Got buried a couple pages back, anything I should know on this?
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:00
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you putting a door in the opening, and is it so out of square that the door casing doesn't fit widthwise? Normally door jambs (and trim generally) are shimmed liberally to make not very square framing into square door frames. So instead of trying to take 1cm off the the top, add 1cm to the bottom and now it is plumb. I'm guessing replacement door is too big and they don't want to tear any drywall out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:11
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:sawzall but... what is that 2x4 doing in your house? Goons have gotten themselves into "interesting" situations before without thinking all the way through what they are cutting. Is that a king stud or a trimmer. Probably doesn't matter I guess It's a trimmer in a non-structural wall. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are you putting a door in the opening Yes Kaiser Schnitzel posted:and is it so out of square that the door casing doesn't fit widthwise? Normally door jambs (and trim generally) are shimmed liberally to make not very square framing into square door frames. So instead of trying to take 1cm off the the top, add 1cm to the bottom and now it is plumb. Yes. More information here, but the short version is that the studs were put in out of plumb and without any allowance for shimming which means all the linings are out of plumb with no way to shuffle them back into square by removing shims (since there aren't any). It's actually the bottom two-thirds that are narrow which means I'd have to move the *top* in which I can't do because I'd have to cut and rejoin the header. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Otherwise yeah, sawzall. I guess I should pick one up. I do have an oscillating multi-tool which I guess I could use, though I'd have to make multiple passes to get through the width of the board compared to the reciprocating saw. Maybe I should just go with the router route since I'm going to have to buy one soon anyway. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Whats that neon green stuff? That's a laser. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I'm guessing replacement door is too big and they don't want to tear any drywall out. Even worse, there's never been a door there, but the builder was the type to think he was too good to follow proper procedures and so has done a lovely job through winging it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:19
|
|
|
Javid posted:I vote leave it. Wood has knots, it's fine. $20 b/f? ...how much is it to ship a 30" slab? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:27
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:I guess I should pick one up. I do have an oscillating multi-tool which I guess I could use, though I'd have to make multiple passes to get through the width of the board compared to the reciprocating saw. No way are you going to do that with an omt, go grab a sawzall for $50 if that is a possibility for you and save yourself a ton of work. A sawzall will blow through the nails there pretty easily. I definitely wouldn't use a router for that, either. I'm sure you know this but a sawzall won't give you a perfect cut. You can get close with some skill but the blade will always flex a little That person who said "use barn doors" may have been on the right track 
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:42
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:No way are you going to do that with an omt, go grab a sawzall for $50 if that is a possibility for you and save yourself a ton of work. A sawzall will blow through the nails there pretty easily. I definitely wouldn't use a router for that, either. I meant more routing out a channel in a lining so it fits over the stud as-is. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I'm sure you know this but a sawzall won't give you a perfect cut. You can get close with some skill but the blade will always flex a little Aye, it's not a finish surface so it should be fine, I can clean it up with a chisel if really needed. I just don't want to spend 20 hours doing it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 16:49
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Shellac is a good barrier coat if you are worried about knots bleeding through, thought I don't think that would happen with poly anyway. Does it also cut down on stain blotching so could be used instead of a conditioner? Would kill two birds either one stone if that's the case.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 17:07
|
|
|
Thirding sawzall, grab the bare tool of whatever 18v system you have, if you ever went cordless (can't remember sorry). When you destroy the garden it's great for demo work, and making things fit in skips.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 17:58
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Thirding sawzall, grab the bare tool of whatever 18v system you have, if you ever went cordless (can't remember sorry). When you destroy the garden it's great for demo work, and making things fit in skips. I have a bit of a mix tbh, so I went for the Bosch corded saw which was on clearance. Anything less showed reliability issues and anything more (like a cordless Makita) was twice the price. I don't really have a consistent buy-in on the larger batteries yet.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 18:08
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Does it also cut down on stain blotching so could be used instead of a conditioner? Would kill two birds either one stone if that's the case. Last time I did poly on pine, I just used a conditioner and then stain, then poly. The knots weren't any issue along the way. It's a bedside table for my son, so it doesn't get super beat up, but he can spill water from his water bottle on it without leaving rings.
|
|
#
?
Apr 6, 2019 19:47
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:I'm in the middle of some remedial carpentry and need to trim back a 2x4 in situ. What's the best way for me to do this without spending hours with a chisel, manually planing vertically (which I have trouble with), or spending a bunch of money on a power planer? It's about 1cm off plumb through about two thirds of the height, and can't be removed without causing a lot of problems. A belt sander and low grit belt would be another option if you don't mind the dust. Pine sands stupid fast.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 05:58
|
|
|
Power planer? 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 06:07
|
|
|
As per chats in other threads it's finally time that I have to divert my energies into a decent worktable. In terms of housing a table saw and router table, how does this look?  Dashed grey areas are the extension paths for the table saw fence. Would probably also need some ghetto extendable run off supports. Timber dimensions TBD. I'm also assuming I'd have to have some other solution (like a big piece of insulation board) for when I'm using the track saw and need something sacrificial.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 14:44
|
|
|
put the router on the right side and share the fence with the table saw.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 20:57
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:put the router on the right side and share the fence with the table saw. I did consider that but I thought it'd cause trouble since there'd be a significant gap where the rails run out, though I think I could channel them out rather than remove the whole thing so it's still possible. Another thing is potentially putting the table saw on the opposite end to the router, since the fence is limited on the table anyway the width isn't going to do me a whole lot of good unless I'm cutting panels. In that case I wouldn't be able to share a fence with the router but there would be room for a mitre saw. Edit: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 21:34
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:It's a trimmer in a non-structural wall. How tight is the opening from what you need? Half inch? Couple centimeters? Smack it with a sledge top and bottom and see if you can't drive it back enough to allow plumb & shim. Of course, older construction in England may not budge. edit- although with a broad chisel that's sharp, you could do it in 15 minutes.
|
|
#
?
Apr 7, 2019 23:13
|
|
|
You can use a scissor jack to move framing of a hammer doesn't do it. I've had to do it when installing bathtubs and there's one in every car.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 03:03
|
|
|
dyne posted:A belt sander and low grit belt would be another option if you don't mind the dust. Pine sands stupid fast. Yeah that’s what I’d use. Roughing it out with a reciprocating saw first will speed the process but not by enough to warrant buying one.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 03:33
|
|
|
Hey all, I figured I'd share my first non-rough carpentry project since having a proper space (albeit still a work in progress). I needed to fill a blank space in my kitchen with some extra shelving and decided to test out my new router. The original plan was for 3 shelves, but my jig slipped on one of the three shelves so these are the two survivors, fit together with dados cut with my router (though aggravatingly there's maybe a 1/16" of error), conditioned and stained. It's yellow pine but the shelves are not going to be abused, used as a working surface, so I will finish with several coats of wipe-on poly with a 0000 steel wool finish once this dries. It also is not the best quality wood, so I went with a more worn look rather than try to sand out every divot and check (sadly my hours don't align well with the nice lumber yard I would normally use). Any other tips on finishing these: 
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 04:00
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:How tight is the opening from what you need? Half inch? Couple centimeters? Smack it with a sledge top and bottom and see if you can't drive it back enough to allow plumb & shim. Of course, older construction in England may not budge. bred posted:You can use a scissor jack to move framing of a hammer doesn't do it. I've had to do it when installing bathtubs and there's one in every car. Alas it's trimmer -> king stud -> triple layer brick wall. It ain't goin nowhere. Plus if I moved either side all the plaster would crack. Platystemon posted:Yeah that’s what I’d use. In this case I don't own a belt sander either (plus I ordered it already)
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 07:24
|
|
|
I mean, one couple probably get it done in an afternoon with a hand saw of some kind and a big fatty wood chisel if they REALLY wanted to.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 08:28
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:It sucks that your plans didn't work out, but I feel like that was probably inevitable considering the grain orientation you're working with. What you might consider is doing colored epoxy fill for any future cracks that develop, to make it into an intentional feature rather than a flaw. I had already done the colored epoxy fill for the major cracks that had opened prior. The crack on the top is still just a hairline. The bottom however was a different story.  The upper joint (picture wise) of the insert looked exactly like the bottom one. (please ignore the router hiccup). For whatever reason it seemed to swell. I filled the crack and coated the whole back with epoxy, then sanded it down.  It looked like poo poo, so I decided to cover the entire thing with the blue. There's a good chance I would have ended up doing this anyway, as I didn't really like the look of the insert in the back. The first coat was done last night, here's what it looked like this morning.  .I'll do another coat for the back and that will be wrapped up (after routing out for the cover plate for the electronics compartment). The top and sides will stay natural. I'm going to try and make the blue a little bit decorative on the final coat, I might do some sort of swirls or something. It's not exactly how I had planned everything to go, but at least it's not completely hosed. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Apr 8, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 15:29
|
|
|
FYI, blue tape flexes when it heats up caused by the resin. Use packing tape to build your barriers and you will get less bleeding. .
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 15:42
|
|
|
Do yall have any good resource for buying epoxy cheaply online? I want to play with filling cracks with colored epoxy and sanding it down, too!
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 15:50
|
|
|
Keep your furniture out of the sun folks. 20 years of a south facing window has done some hurtin’ to one side of this bedpost. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 15:56
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Do yall have any good resource for buying epoxy cheaply online? I want to play with filling cracks with colored epoxy and sanding it down, too! I just went on amazon and got the East Coast crystal clear epoxy. JEEVES420 posted:FYI, blue tape flexes when it heats up caused by the resin. Use packing tape to build your barriers and you will get less bleeding. . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMQhXc1dHIQ (thanks, I'll definitely keep that in mind for the second coat) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Apr 8, 2019 |
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 15:57
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Alas it's trimmer -> king stud -> triple layer brick wall. It ain't goin nowhere. Plus if I moved either side all the plaster would crack. Kinda figured as much. A belt sander is a terrible idea. Studs are generally made of straight grained lumber, fir or pine are most common here. If you've already got a sawzall on the way, make horizontal cuts every couple inches flush to the plaster, then peel that out with a broad chisel. I imagine you already know that. edit Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Keep your furniture out of the sun folks. 20 years of a south facing window has done some hurtin’ to one side of this bedpost. Dang. Izzat mahogany?
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 16:28
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Do yall have any good resource for buying epoxy cheaply online? I want to play with filling cracks with colored epoxy and sanding it down, too! Alumlilite, Art Resin, and East Coast bar top resins can all be found in 16oz kits for $20-$30 which give you a lot to play with if you are just filling cracks. Michaels, Hobby Lobby, and Hobby Town all usually have some as well.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 16:28
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Kinda figured as much. A belt sander is a terrible idea. Studs are generally made of straight grained lumber, fir or pine are most common here. If you've already got a sawzall on the way, make horizontal cuts every couple inches flush to the plaster, then peel that out with a broad chisel. I imagine you already know that. When it comes to physical construction don't assume I know which end of a saw to hold.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 17:21
|
|
|
I'm using this stuff for small cracks and repairs and such: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IZFPQE $20, small bottles (8oz total of resin), high quality stuff, not for doing large projects but the price was right for something to keep on the shelf for occasional use.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 17:30
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I had already done the colored epoxy fill for the major cracks that had opened prior. This is kinda why I was talking about doing any cutting, drilling, routing before finishing anything. Wood's gonna do whatever the gently caress it wants to.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 18:05
|
|
|
Thumposaurus posted:This is kinda why I was talking about doing any cutting, drilling, routing before finishing anything. The finish is actually going to strengthen the wood though. I was originally planning on doing the back last, but the wood had other ideas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 18:09
|
|
|
I finally installed this giant carved mahogany mantelpiece I’ve been working on for ages. Someone had wanted to see when it was done, so here’s too many words and some pictures. They wanted something very classical/Georgian and so I drew this up, which is basically where we wound up, except with a carved laurel leaf mouldings instead of a plain big ogee:   They didn’t like the flat panel in the center-I was trying to save myself from carving more laurel leaves- so it wound up with a crossed ribbon in the center instead and it probably looks better that way.   I think I wound up carving around 150 laurel leaves. They’re really pretty simple and you don’t need many tools to do it and they would make a good babby’s first carving project. Sanding them took forever because I left the carvings a bit rough due to some difficult grain. I literally sanded until my fingers bled. I almost carved too far and didn’t leave space for the angled leaf to hide the miters but luckily they barely fit.  I don’t have a shaper or moulder and even if I did, the $200+ it would cost per profile to get a knife ground for 10’ of moulding wouldn’t have paid, so I just did all the larger mouldings with my lovely half set of hollows and rounds. Roughed them out running on a skew on the tablesaw and then cleaned up with the planes.  I was lucky to get this set of planes a few years ago. Formerly the property of one ‘D. CALEY,’ and made by Varvill & Sons of York sometime in the 19th century they’re on great shape and do their job well.  Im not super thrilled with the carving on the brackets/corbels. It was some pretty hard, splintery wood that was not easy to carve and didn’t hold fine details well and I was running out of time so it’s a little rough, but it’ll do.  Overall I think it turned out well. They’re having a faux painter finish it on site with a greyish glaze to match some doors he’s doing. If they’d known they were going with that finish to start with, I could have used basswood or something and the carving would have gone a lot faster, but the mahogany wasn’t too bad. Not sure it’ll be my favorite finish, but he’s very good and it saves me a bunch more sanding leaves so it’s all good for me. It’s definitely work I’m proud of-I’ve done a bit of carving here and there, but never this much in one place, and it’s amazing how much faster and cleaner the work went as I got in practice.  tl:dr-I cut down some trees that used to have perfectly good leaves of their own and carved them into new leaves for someone’s fancy fireplace.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
Holy cow, nice work.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 21:18
|
|
|
Amazing work s shame to cover it up with paint.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 21:48
|
|
|
That is some stunning work. It's the sort of detail that makes people really love a house. When my wife and I lived in Louisville there was detailed work on the mantle around the fireplace and as soon as we saw it we were ready to put in an offer on the space. The rest of the condo was nice enough and we did little projects to make it nicer, but that sort of detail in a few places really did seal it. I think I spent 10 minutes just staring at the work around that 100 year old fireplace. Let's hope that work you did is around in 100 years for some one else.
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 22:08
|
|
|
Yeah, dang, that's some really nice work. Agreed on the paint, though I can see how it'd make your life easier. Do you have an estimate for how much wood went into that project, or how much time you spent on it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 8, 2019 22:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 23:01 |
|
|
That's beautiful. Any good rec for chisels to do just the Laurel leaves and any vids or book for instruction? I've been doing a bit of chip carving but it's really not gonna translate well to maple and cherry furniture like I'm working now.
|
|
|
#
?
Apr 9, 2019 00:25
|
|
