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Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The Harbor Freight pancake compressors really are one of their indestructible little gems. I guess for better or worse there is no UK equivalent to HF? Where do you people buy your cheap poo poo from?

Indeed, we don't have one that I know of. There are budget "own brand" lines of products in our Lowes-equivalents, which are the same white label things you'd get under ten different made up brand names on Amazon. In B&Q they're branded MacAlister, for example. Also as far as I can tell the "pancake" compressors don't exist here.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Also yeah who cares about the noise. Leave it on another floor and get a 100' hose.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Yes, put it in a different room. It's a huge advantage

Fair.

OK so we're looking at:

Compressor, £90
30m hose, £23
18G nail gun, £60
16G nail gun, £70
2.5k 2" 16G nails, £10
1k 2" 18G nails, £9
Blow gun, tyre inflator, spiral hose, £18

So, a grand total of £280 or $350.

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Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Jaded Burnout posted:

Indeed, we don't have one that I know of. There are budget "own brand" lines of products in our Lowes-equivalents, which are the same white label things you'd get under ten different made up brand names on Amazon. In B&Q they're branded MacAlister, for example. Also as far as I can tell the "pancake" compressors don't exist here.



Fair.

OK so we're looking at:

Compressor, £90
30m hose, £23
18G nail gun, £60
16G nail gun, £70
2.5k 2" 16G nails, £10
1k 2" 18G nails, £9
Blow gun, tyre inflator, spiral hose, £18

So, a grand total of £280 or $350.

Instead of 1 30 meter hose, get 2 15's. Only using the longer hose will reduce efficiency when you don't need all 100 feet of it. Also, I recommend not getting 2" 18#, that's sort of redundant since you've already got that length in 16#. Get shorter ones, like an inch.

Somebody in the States buy this guy an 18# pin nailer and post it to him. Or Jade, you could check into opening an account with Amazon.com/ or https://www.grizzly.com/ in the States and see what shipping would run. Grizzly has their brad nailer/stapler combo for $59, and a stapler is very handy attaching door casing to jambs and other wood-to-wood applications.

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof
All this pancake / hotdog talk is making me hungry.

I gotta vouch for the porter cable pancake. It's light and very capable, and stable. Perfect for roofing.
Mine finally died after like 15 years of hard use.

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I don't know if they sell them in the UK, but the California Air Tools compressor was recommended to me in this thread when I was looking to get a new air compressor. It was the same amount as one of the pancake compressors, but is so much quieter that I would (and have) recommend it to anyone looking to get a new compressor.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Mr. Mambold posted:

Instead of 1 30 meter hose, get 2 15's. Only using the longer hose will reduce efficiency when you don't need all 100 feet of it.

Makes sense.

Mr. Mambold posted:

Also, I recommend not getting 2" 18#, that's sort of redundant since you've already got that length in 16#. Get shorter ones, like an inch.

Also reasonable, they do a multipack of smaller sizes in that gauge.

Mr. Mambold posted:

Somebody in the States buy this guy an 18# pin nailer and post it to him. Or Jade, you could check into opening an account with Amazon.com/ or https://www.grizzly.com/ in the States and see what shipping would run. Grizzly has their brad nailer/stapler combo for $59

Amazon have shipped to the UK from the US for a while, to the point where they provide pre-pay on customs fees, which is handy.

For example, this combo nailer/stapler would be £43 delivered.

If I were to do that I'd lose the warranty, so it might be worth picking up higher quality stuff since it seems to work out cheaper than something lower quality here.

To that end, any suggestions for go-to nailer brands on amazon.com? Things like the compressor are still out of reach since the shipping is like $150.

Mr. Mambold posted:

a stapler is very handy attaching door casing to jambs and other wood-to-wood applications.

I'm a little surprised at this, I didn't know staples were that powerful. I assumed they were used mostly for upholstery type things.

AFewBricksShy posted:

I don't know if they sell them in the UK, but the California Air Tools compressor was recommended to me in this thread

They don't, unfortunately.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
I'd look around and see if there are any locally available 2nd hand compressors.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Jaded Burnout posted:

Makes sense.


Also reasonable, they do a multipack of smaller sizes in that gauge.


Amazon have shipped to the UK from the US for a while, to the point where they provide pre-pay on customs fees, which is handy.

For example, this combo nailer/stapler would be £43 delivered.

If I were to do that I'd lose the warranty, so it might be worth picking up higher quality stuff since it seems to work out cheaper than something lower quality here.

To that end, any suggestions for go-to nailer brands on amazon.com? Things like the compressor are still out of reach since the shipping is like $150.


I'm a little surprised at this, I didn't know staples were that powerful. I assumed they were used mostly for upholstery type things.



Most of them are Chinese made, regardless of brand. The QC of each Chinese factory is the key, and I've no idea on that. I'd pick something cheapish that hasn't been excoriated in the reviews, and beat the poo poo out of it for a few weeks to make sure it's not garbage. To my eye, that NuMax is the same tool as Bostich and Paslode sell. For that price, I'd get that combo and never look back.

I put a few drops of light machine oil right into the intake periodically also. Typically warranties on these type tools aren't worth it, imo.

As to the staplers, the wire is the same gauge as 18# iirc, much stouter than upholstery staples, so it more than doubles the holding power, having the connected crown. These also vary in length up to around 1 1/4", I think. There's scenarios where each is preferable.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Alright so in the end I bought the 16 and 18G NuMax guns from the US, they're arriving in a couple of weeks, and instead of two 15m hoses I got a 15m and a 30m because of the way the pricing shakes out. That combined with the 5m spiral hose should have me covered for all eventualities.

I also grabbed a mix pack of different 15 to 30mm 18G nails instead of the 50mm ones, and I'll go get a compressor from Screwfix next time I'm on that side of town.

His Divine Shadow posted:

I'd look around and see if there are any locally available 2nd hand compressors.

I did have a poke around and my area continues to be a dearth of 2nd hand stuff, I'm going to keep my eye more closely on freecycle though.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
Im jealous of your new toys. I know your situation is completely different than mine as I'm in the US but is be very wary about buying a used air compressor as most people are selling theirs probably because they dont use it (sweet!) or it's not holding air (because they never empty it). Dont forget to put a drop of oil in your tools regularly and empty your air compressors after every use. Obviously grab anything if the price is that right.

Dont quote me to tell me you dont need to I know someone wants to, you do. Stop being lazy!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Im jealous of your new toys. I know your situation is completely different than mine as I'm in the US but is be very wary about buying a used air compressor as most people are selling theirs probably because they dont use it (sweet!) or it's not holding air (because they never empty it). Dont forget to put a drop of oil in your tools regularly and empty your air compressors after every use. Obviously grab anything if the price is that right.

Dont quote me to tell me you dont need to I know someone wants to, you do. Stop being lazy!

Yeah I'm always a little wary of buying a used tool when I'm not already familiar with those tools. I've ordered a new compressor from Screwfix and I'll be picking it up tomorrow.

I should up my oil game in general, tbh.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
It won't blow your poo poo up spectacularly if you don't use it right away but you seem to be the type of person that likes to buy something and take care of it so I'd definitely grab a little bottle of air tool oil

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
I don't know enough about jointers but $65 sounds crazy low for this. Am I just off?

https://waco.craigslist.org/tls/d/kopperl-cleaned-out-the-shop/6900299754.html

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Bob Mundon posted:

I don't know enough about jointers but $65 sounds crazy low for this. Am I just off?

https://waco.craigslist.org/tls/d/kopperl-cleaned-out-the-shop/6900299754.html
On the one hand, yes that is very cheap, on the other hand, it is covered in rust, isn’t very big, and definitely needs new knives. If you just need a jointer and don’t mind doing some restoration work and the motor and bearings are in good shape then that’s probably a good deal.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Until looking around after I didn't realize how cheap bench top jointers were, probably cost that much just to replace the cutters.

For light work are they too awful? Like this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-6-Inch-10-Amp-Corded-Benchtop-Jointer-with-Filter-Bag-and-Depth-Scale-6559/308758986

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM
I have a WEN bandsaw and drill press.

I regret my purchases.

Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut
Had my eye on their drill press too, noted.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

On the one hand, yes that is very cheap, on the other hand, it is covered in rust, isn’t very big, and definitely needs new knives. If you just need a jointer and don’t mind doing some restoration work and the motor and bearings are in good shape then that’s probably a good deal.

After about a year scouring craigslist I've realized that decent jointers are out there but I will be doing some restoration. Sharpening knives are just done by taking it to pros yea? Are the machines tough to adjust and get right? I'll post the next one I find that looks alright and see what the consensus is.. I neeeeeed to start taking more wood down and drying it

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Harry Potter on Ice posted:

After about a year scouring craigslist I've realized that decent jointers are out there but I will be doing some restoration. Sharpening knives are just done by taking it to pros yea? Are the machines tough to adjust and get right? I'll post the next one I find that looks alright and see what the consensus is.. I neeeeeed to start taking more wood down and drying it
You can hone/touch up knives pretty easily on the machine, but if they're all rusty and chipped it's probably cheaper to get a new set for like $20 on amazon than try and get them sharpened. The tricky part of setting up a jointer is getting the tables coplanar/parallel, getting the knives concentric, and then aligning the outfeed table to the exact height of the knives. Every time you sharpen/remove the knives you have to do the last two steps. There are some tricks that make them easier, namely using a stone laying on top of the outfeed to strike off the last little bit of the knives (with the machine running-that's the scary part, or more safely turning the head by hand) to get them all cutting in the same arc and align them with the outfeed table. This grinds a small secondary bevel on the knife too, helping keep the edge stronger and more durable.

This book is a bit dry and dated-it's really a textbook for trade schools from when trade schools existed-but it's incredibly useful and a great reference useful that tells you how to do every sort of millwork and furniture from hand cutting dovetails to setting up shapers to make doors. It has the best description I've read of setting up and striking off a jointer, and you can get it for like $4 so there's no reason not to own it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0026759500/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Bob Mundon posted:

I don't know enough about jointers but $65 sounds crazy low for this. Am I just off?

https://waco.craigslist.org/tls/d/kopperl-cleaned-out-the-shop/6900299754.html

I'd keep looking.

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

After about a year scouring craigslist I've realized that decent jointers are out there but I will be doing some restoration. Sharpening knives are just done by taking it to pros yea? Are the machines tough to adjust and get right? I'll post the next one I find that looks alright and see what the consensus is.. I neeeeeed to start taking more wood down and drying it

2 factors- getting the knives aligned, which there are magnetic jigs for- and then getting the beds set up with the knives. Or there's spiral helix cutters and I've no clue on those. I'd like to justify having one, but I can't.
Outfeed table needs to be right on with the knives or you get either too shallow or end snipes, or worse if there's a slant. Both bad. So it's a bit of tweaking. Once you get it, you're good to go. I'm sure there's tutes for that.

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
Would this be the right thread to ask - I'm interested in putting together a minimal automotive toolkit to have on hand. I'm not going to be taking engines apart, but being able to comfortably change tires/oil would be nice.

I'm starting from scratch, if that helps.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Gyshall posted:

Would this be the right thread to ask - I'm interested in putting together a minimal automotive toolkit to have on hand. I'm not going to be taking engines apart, but being able to comfortably change tires/oil would be nice.

I'm starting from scratch, if that helps.

There may well be people in here who can help but since you don't need to go deep on researching the specific tools you buy, you might do better in the quick questions thread in AI, hopefully they can give you a quick shopping list (if there's not one in their FAQs already).

funeral home DJ
Apr 21, 2003


Pillbug

Gyshall posted:

Would this be the right thread to ask - I'm interested in putting together a minimal automotive toolkit to have on hand. I'm not going to be taking engines apart, but being able to comfortably change tires/oil would be nice.

I'm starting from scratch, if that helps.

If you have an American make vehicle, I’d invest in a set of Metric and SAE sockets from Harbor Freight (3/8” drive is fine), a half-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar with 17mm, 18mm, 7/8” or 11/16” sockets (whichever is your car’s lugnut size) and an oil filter removal tool. You might be able to get by with metric only if you have a foreign make. Also, if you have enough money to burn, get a decent torque wrench to ensure your wheels are torqued correctly, like this from Amazon.

(The reason I’m not saying it’s mandatory is that it’s entirely possible to muscle down your lugnuts just fine without a torque wrench, but it’s not the “right” way to do it and you can possibly gently caress up your lugs if you gorilla it on there, or have a wheel fall off if it isn’t tight enough which is no fun.)

The problem is that I don’t know what you’re driving and how much of a pain in the dick it is to get the oil filter, so in some cases an oil filter wrench like this is fine if you have lots of room around the filter itself, but sometimes you are better off with a socket-cap-style wrench that uses an extension and a ratchet to knock it off. Again, all depends on the make/model and the oil filter size.

Finally, get a decent floor jack and jack stands. Yes, you need jack stands, never, ever, ever trust the floor jack alone. Harbor Freight makes okay models of everything so just get a coupon and nab whatever has the lift capacity for your vehicle. Just keep in mind there’s no such thing as being too paranoid when you’re sticking your head under the car.

Edit: if you have a Subaru or other car with an oil filter on top of the engine, and all you want to do is just change the oil, the Topsider fluid evacuator pump is absolutely wonderful to use. It’s relatively expensive, yes, but it prevents a big mess and makes it a lot less obvious you’re working on your car if you live in an apartment complex or another place where that sort of thing is frowned upon. Not climbing under the car is also a really nice thing on a hot or cold day.

funeral home DJ fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jun 3, 2019

Gyshall
Feb 24, 2009

Had a couple of drinks.
Saw a couple of things.
Thanks goons!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Picked up the compressor yesterday and some accessories arrived today, so I've spent a few minutes refreshing my memory on how everything works.

I guess I need to pick up some adapters for whatever length of long hose it was that arrived, but otherwise everything seems fine. It's extremely loving loud.

I've been using canned compressed air to clean things for a while and gosh this is a revelation.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Jaded Burnout posted:

Picked up the compressor yesterday and some accessories arrived today, so I've spent a few minutes refreshing my memory on how everything works.

I guess I need to pick up some adapters for whatever length of long hose it was that arrived, but otherwise everything seems fine. It's extremely loving loud.

I've been using canned compressed air to clean things for a while and gosh this is a revelation.

Get a couple 2x4s and go to town with the nail gun. Get it out of your system before you start work otherwise you will put 3(0) nails where 1 is needed.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


JEEVES420 posted:

Get a couple 2x4s and go to town with the nail gun. Get it out of your system before you start work otherwise you will put 3(0) nails where 1 is needed.

Nail guns are still a week or so away.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
Yea you'll get it dialed in for what you're doing so it kicks on less, between that and being in another room you'll only hear it when you start it (and you leave to get something else ready) and a couple times working. New air compressor day sounds awesome drat

JEEVES420 posted:

Get a couple 2x4s and go to town with the nail gun. Get it out of your system before you start work otherwise you will put 3(0) nails where 1 is needed.

Oh lol right. Bump... bump.... bapbapbap and the board end splits

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Jaded Burnout posted:

Nail guns are still a week or so away.

You might want to wait on getting the adaptors until then, although a 1/4" male outlet is pretty standard on nailers.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Mr. Mambold posted:

You might want to wait on getting the adaptors until then, although a 1/4" male outlet is pretty standard on nailers.

Yeah. The accessories I have and tank are all quick release, the 15m hose has 1/4" BSP. The guns *look* like they have the same quick fit fittings but I guess we'll see when they arrive.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah. The accessories I have and tank are all quick release, the 15m hose has 1/4" BSP. The guns *look* like they have the same quick fit fittings but I guess we'll see when they arrive.

You need someone to modify your AV so the cat is nailing with both paws

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Jaded Burnout posted:

Yeah. The accessories I have and tank are all quick release, the 15m hose has 1/4" BSP. The guns *look* like they have the same quick fit fittings but I guess we'll see when they arrive.

If the hoses don't come with the quick-release on them (mine didn't), you'll also want to grab some teflon tape to make the seal air-tight.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


SouthShoreSamurai posted:

If the hoses don't come with the quick-release on them (mine didn't), you'll also want to grab some teflon tape to make the seal air-tight.

I would presume that the BSP connectors would do that, but I have plumbers' tape I can use.

Butch Cassidy
Jul 28, 2010

Butch Cassidy posted:

I absolutely :love: Ryobi's 5 1/2" cordless circular saw. But used a friend's 6 1/2" Makita 18 volt saw today and want one bad...Bit bummed to have other priorities way ahead on the list...

Makita's bumped up the list just behind a second string trimmer. Ryobi released the magic blue smoke while ripping a scrap board to level one wall of a raised garden bed, today. Was a pretty chill moment with Galactic streaming on the boombox. Grabbed my wife's to finish the cut because I wasn't feeling the handsaw and certainly not laying out a cord to haul out the proper circular saw for 18 more inches.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Butch Cassidy posted:

Makita's bumped up the list just behind a second string trimmer. Ryobi released the magic blue smoke while ripping a scrap board to level one wall of a raised garden bed, today. Was a pretty chill moment with Galactic streaming on the boombox. Grabbed my wife's to finish the cut because I wasn't feeling the handsaw and certainly not laying out a cord to haul out the proper circular saw for 18 more inches.

Should have started with the proper circular saw :dadjoke:


On Circular saw talk, my corded Skill saw is choking on 2" MCA soaked pine. Thought it was a dull blade but even with a new one it will stop spinning the blade (motor still spins). I am making the cuts using a speed square as a guide but wouldn't doubt if I am binding it a bit + wet wood. Question is, is the blade stopping but not the motor bad? Is it some kind of anti kick feature?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



JEEVES420 posted:

Should have started with the proper circular saw :dadjoke:


On Circular saw talk, my corded Skill saw is choking on 2" MCA soaked pine. Thought it was a dull blade but even with a new one it will stop spinning the blade (motor still spins). I am making the cuts using a speed square as a guide but wouldn't doubt if I am binding it a bit + wet wood. Question is, is the blade stopping but not the motor bad? Is it some kind of anti kick feature?

I honestly don't know if that's an anti-kick feature in that saw, but if you have the blade tightened in there, I'd reckon it is. I wouldn't think using a speed square would have anything to do with binding. You can generally hear the difference when a motor is dying or brushes are bad, sometimes you'll smell the blue smoke leaving it.
Wet lumber like that can be very bindy, grabby, but I don't know all the particulars why that is.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Mr. Mambold posted:

Wet lumber like that can be very bindy, grabby, but I don't know all the particulars why that is.

At a guess, there's a lot of fibers that want to expand (because of their water content), but cannot because they're surrounded by other fibers. Cutting into the board means there's now room to expand, so they do, binding the blade in the process.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



TooMuchAbstraction posted:

At a guess, there's a lot of fibers that want to expand (because of their water content), but cannot because they're surrounded by other fibers. Cutting into the board means there's now room to expand, so they do, binding the blade in the process.

I was speculating something like that where the heat does magical fiber weirdness except green wood cuts way easier than dried lumber..... also he's crosscutting so I think that dents your theory. Pine can be sappy, idk.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

JEEVES420 posted:

Should have started with the proper circular saw :dadjoke:


On Circular saw talk, my corded Skill saw is choking on 2" MCA soaked pine. Thought it was a dull blade but even with a new one it will stop spinning the blade (motor still spins). I am making the cuts using a speed square as a guide but wouldn't doubt if I am binding it a bit + wet wood. Question is, is the blade stopping but not the motor bad? Is it some kind of anti kick feature?

Are you cutting off small pieces from the end? A quick way to check if its a bind or not is to support the end or cut a bigger piece off. If its the action I'm thinking of it just comes from a bind because you're taking off an inch, it happens all the time at the end of a cut when I brace a 2x4 against my thigh to take some off (the board not my leg)

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
I am supporting the cut off with one hand while holding the speed square at the same time, saw in other hand with board supported on something. I wouldn't doubt I am flexing the cut off side on some cuts. These are ground contact pressure treated 2x6s still wet to the touch from the MCA (nasty poo poo to work with).

I was more curious about the motor still spinning when the blade isn't as I can't recall ever having this saw bind up before. Interesting feature if it is designed to do that, I will have to look at the model number and do some research.

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Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Using too fine toothed a sawblade or a dull one might cause it too. You want something that makes a substantially larger kerf than the blade thickness. Dealing with pressure treated stuff just sucks generally.

Wet/green wood does cut much more easily than dry wood with the right tools. Trying to use a fine dovetail saw in wet wood is going to make you sad, but you can breeze right through it with big ole teeth that would choke on dry wood.

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