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Steakandchips posted:So, I'm curious, is the Milwaukee M12 any good on stone? I can't speak for the wireless stuff (or real stone, actually), but on dense block concrete I've had a lot of success with this discontinued cheap knock-off wired Bosch-clone SDS+ drill where my battery-powered stuff dipped out: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008CNEZ6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 So if you can find something like that and use proper SDS+ bits with it I suspect you'll have good success.
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Jun 9, 2019 11:02
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I'll likely get an SDS+ at some point, but it's not a priority right now, but yes, you're right, an SDS+ would definitely get the job done.
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Jun 9, 2019 12:19
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Steakandchips posted:I'll likely get an SDS+ at some point, but it's not a priority right now, but yes, you're right, an SDS+ would definitely get the job done. It was £40 is why I mentioned it, might turn out cheaper than an effective battery unit.
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Jun 9, 2019 12:43
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Jaded Burnout posted:It's possible, I'm not able to tell the difference with the naked eye. Certainly seems compatible enough, the proof will be in the pudding tomorrow when I go get some parts. Alright so with some very careful side by side study, the plugs I've just bought have slightly different thread angles to the ones that came with the guns, so yeah the guns must be NPT or NPS (it's asking a bit of me to see a taper at this scale). Something which annoys me is, look it's fine if different countries have different standards, so NPT/BSPT and NPS/BSPP, fine, what bothers me is PCL, a UK-based company which seems to have decided they want their own standard (which they helpfully call "standard"), and then released an "XF" (extra flow) version which is very close to but not an exact match for euro-style. So now I need to figure out if they're close enough to be safe, whether they were actually intended to be compatible, or not. And also buy some parts from amazon after all because my local place doesn't stock male BSP to female euro quick fit. And nobody specifies which of these their gear is fitted with, just '1/4" quick connect", which could be US or PCL or Euro or.. Anyway, so I can't use these in the guns and will be returning 2 of them, but I can at least use one in my BSP hose, assuming it's safe to do so (it seems to be from brief testing).
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Jun 9, 2019 13:10
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If the threads spacing is good just Teflon tape them and don't worry about tapers or anything. Unless you plan to be unscrewing and swapping quick disconnects, once it's on and there is no leaking it's nothing to worry about. Should I bring up the differences in quick disconnects? Industrial, automotive, and ARO. 
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Jun 9, 2019 16:32
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JEEVES420 posted:Should I bring up the differences in quick disconnects? Industrial, automotive, and ARO. The Euro/PCL/US difference is already enough for me (NB that's because there's a US/Euro/UK difference on the accessory side AS WELL as a DIFFERENT US/Euro/UK difference on the thread side). Application-specific differences within regions can go to gently caress.
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Jun 9, 2019 17:12
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It might take calling a specialty supplier, but I’d bet you can get a 1/4”male NPT-1/4” BSP female adapter. Or for additional yak shaving, solder up a little copper pipe adapter. You could probable also get 1/4” US quick connects that will fit on your airline. Added bonus of making anyone very sad and confused if they steal your tools.
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Jun 9, 2019 17:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It might take calling a specialty supplier, but I’d bet you can get a 1/4”male NPT-1/4” BSP female adapter. Or for additional yak shaving, solder up a little copper pipe adapter. You could probable also get 1/4” US quick connects that will fit on your airline. Added bonus of making anyone very sad and confused if they steal your tools. Well I wouldn't call myself a supplier but I am special https://www.amazon.com/BRASS-ADAPTER-FEMALE-SEALING-WASHER/dp/B015ROAYWC The person who smashed my window once to get a backpack on the front seat... only to find out the reason it was so full and heavy was not computer equipment but every piece that needed to be cut on a backsplash I was installing later that day was really confused. So was I when I walked out and saw all my hard work smashed around the broken glass from my car window. 200iq/$200 mistake putting that backpack in my car the night before
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Jun 9, 2019 17:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:It might take calling a specialty supplier, but I’d bet you can get a 1/4”male NPT-1/4” BSP female adapter. Or for additional yak shaving, solder up a little copper pipe adapter. You could probable also get 1/4” US quick connects that will fit on your airline. Added bonus of making anyone very sad and confused if they steal your tools. The tricky part is that we have NPT on one end of the system and BSP on the other, so either I get adapters like you say or try to change everything to one or other other. Doing the latter requires at least one end to have BSP -> US QC or NTP -> Euro QC and NTP -> Euro QC is I think easier to find, plus I'd only need 2 of those. We'll see what happens with the stuff that shows up tomorrow. If that fails, 2x 1/4" male NPT -> 1/4" female BSP is going to be the way to go, but I'd like to avoid adding another connection into the run if possible. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jun 9, 2019 |
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Jun 9, 2019 17:39
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:So was I when I walked out and saw all my hard work smashed around the broken glass from my car window. What a dick.
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Jun 10, 2019 00:42
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Thanks for the recommendations everyone, I went to HD and picked up the Milwaukee m12 Fuel Hammer Drill and Impact Driver Kit that came with a 2.0mah and 4.0mah battery for $199 plus picked up an additional 6.0mah battery as the "free tool" included in the promo. Also for a heads up, the free tool in the promo has a return value of $60 printed on the receipt meaning if you don't need any of the free bonus tools you can return it after purchase and get the drill/driver kit for only $140
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Jun 10, 2019 03:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:The tricky part is that we have NPT on one end of the system and BSP on the other, so either I get adapters like you say or try to change everything to one or other other. Doing the latter requires at least one end to have BSP -> US QC or NTP -> Euro QC and NTP -> Euro QC is I think easier to find, plus I'd only need 2 of those. We'll see what happens with the stuff that shows up tomorrow. Just cut off the factory crimped connectors and get the right type that have the staged hose inserts and use hose clamps. Or return that fwiggen hose.
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Jun 10, 2019 03:53
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Anyone have a drill bit box preference? My current set are old, half broken, half dull. I'm considering just getting whatever Milwaukee puts out because it would match my impact driver bit set. Any impassioned pleas in another direction? At this point I'm also figuring I'll wait for father's day sales.
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Jun 10, 2019 05:18
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tangy yet delightful posted:Anyone have a drill bit box preference? My current set are old, half broken, half dull. I'm considering just getting whatever Milwaukee puts out because it would match my impact driver bit set. Any impassioned pleas in another direction? At this point I'm also figuring I'll wait for father's day sales. I have a set of Milwaukee carbide bits for my metal lathe and like 4 harbor freight titanium sets for everything else. At $10 a set of 50 who cares if you dull or break one just grab the next. Pick up a new set when on sale or with 20% coupon. In other words if there are certain sizes you use often get one or two good ones and cheapo ones for the less used.
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Jun 10, 2019 06:16
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Mr. Mambold posted:Just cut off the factory crimped connectors and get the right type that have the staged hose inserts and use hose clamps. Or return that fwiggen hose. This isn't the hose, it's the nail guns.
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Jun 10, 2019 07:49
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JEEVES420 posted:I have a set of Milwaukee carbide bits for my metal lathe and like 4 harbor freight titanium sets for everything else. At $10 a set of 50 who cares if you dull or break one just grab the next. Pick up a new set when on sale or with 20% coupon. For wood and maybe aluminum, cheap drills are ok. For real metal, it's worth spending the money on a set of Norseman, CLE-Line, Dormer, or other midgrade industrial brand. And coatings matter: bright for aluminum, black oxide at the minimum for steel/SS. There's a world of difference between China's cheapest when your trying to drill something hard or something that needs decent accuracy.
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Jun 10, 2019 14:08
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JEEVES420 posted:I have a set of Milwaukee carbide bits for my metal lathe and like 4 harbor freight titanium sets for everything else. At $10 a set of 50 who cares if you dull or break one just grab the next. Pick up a new set when on sale or with 20% coupon. It sounds so obnoxious to have 4 sets around of partially usable drill bits, also so much consumption. To each their own
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Jun 10, 2019 16:00
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Ryobi batteries are on sale 99 bucks for two 6ahs https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-6-0-Ah-LITHIUM-HP-High-Capacity-Battery-2-Pack-P164/305571990 139 for two 9ahs https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-18-Volt-ONE-Lithium-Ion-LITHIUM-HP-9-0-Ah-High-Capacity-Battery-2-Pack-P168/304740785
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Jun 10, 2019 16:04
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:It sounds so obnoxious to have 4 sets around of partially usable drill bits, also so much consumption. To each their own Those are the ones you loan out to neighbors. When they inevitably break one, they have to buy you a case of beer. Popularity? Profit?
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Jun 10, 2019 16:39
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sharkytm posted:For wood and maybe aluminum, cheap drills are ok. For real metal, it's worth spending the money on a set of Norseman, CLE-Line, Dormer, or other midgrade industrial brand. And coatings matter: bright for aluminum, black oxide at the minimum for steel/SS. There's a world of difference between China's cheapest when your trying to drill something hard or something that needs decent accuracy. Not carbide, cobalt  but they work extremely well for SS. I first tried the HF crap on SS and yeah they just melted. In the machine shop we have Westward but I'm not willing to drop that kind of money for at home. General use bits I will go cheap on all day long. But I abuse the poo poo out of them in general construction. Ironically this weekend the HF Masonry bit did a better job and lasted longer than the Tapcon I got.
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Jun 10, 2019 17:44
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JEEVES420 posted:General use bits I will go cheap on all day long. But I abuse the poo poo out of them in general construction. I totally agree that the $10 HF set is plenty good for the average DIYer. Telling a general homeowner to invest in $90+ drill bit sets is crazy; they won't notice the difference in most cases. If you are a serious metal worker, fine, but for putting the occasional hole in wood, drywall, plastic, and most masonry/metals a DIY project will entail, cheaper bits work great. Drill bits are best when they're sharp, and for $10, when the HFs get dull, just get a new set. There's no way I'm wasting time sharpening drill bits.
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Jun 10, 2019 18:32
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Alright so, with some NPT fittings in hand I can now conclusively state that the nail guns from the US were threaded in BSP, probably because they were made in China and nobody's expecting people to go swapping them out. They do have a reducer plate on them so I guess the manufacturer could supply them threaded in NPT but perhaps it was cheaper to use the BSP plates and BSP -> US QC fittings at the time. Some PTFE tape and reasonable force got a BSP -> Euro QC fitting threaded in just fine and I had some fun running off a few nails. Are they supposed to spark as they go in? I'll return the NPT -> (what turned out to be) US QC fittings and I guess keep the BSP -> US QC ones from the guns in case I ever need them.
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Jun 10, 2019 19:45
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lol owned, shoulda got the ryobi cordless nailer your project would have been done by now 
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Jun 10, 2019 19:53
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Jaded Burnout posted:Are they supposed to spark as they go in? They do sometimes, especially if the nails hit something metal (like another nail.) Just as a safety mom warning, because I know you Brits don't know anything about guns, but nail guns (even shooting 18 ga finish nails) can be really dangerous. Always, always, always wear decent eye protection, and be especially mindful of what's anywhere around the point you're nailing. You'd think the nail would travel straight out of the gun and straight into/through the work-piece, but that's a bad assumption. The smaller diameter, longer nails especially have a tendency to ricochet if they hit something hard and can end up popping out the side/top of the wood. You can have a nail go right through your hand or finger so fast you won't even feel it...at first.
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Jun 10, 2019 20:55
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B-Nasty posted:They do sometimes, especially if the nails hit something metal (like another nail.) This one seems to do so every time, into fresh wood. B-Nasty posted:Just as a safety mom warning, because I know you Brits don't know anything about guns, but nail guns (even shooting 18 ga finish nails) can be really dangerous. Always, always, always wear decent eye protection, and be especially mindful of what's anywhere around the point you're nailing. You'd think the nail would travel straight out of the gun and straight into/through the work-piece, but that's a bad assumption. The smaller diameter, longer nails especially have a tendency to ricochet if they hit something hard and can end up popping out the side/top of the wood. You can have a nail go right through your hand or finger so fast you won't even feel it...at first. I appreciate the warning, in this case I had some kind goons take me range shooting on a trip to the states so I've been well versed in gun safety. I also actually read the safety information in the manual, which is fun to see which ones they repeat over and over to make sure it sinks in. I will make double sure to wear eye pro, though I'm pretty good about that normally.
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Jun 10, 2019 21:01
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B-Nasty posted:They do sometimes, especially if the nails hit something metal (like another nail.) Yea nails coming out 90 degrees from where they come in is nasty if you're holding the wood there
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Jun 10, 2019 21:03
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BraveUlysses posted:lol owned, shoulda got the ryobi cordless nailer your project would have been done by now Nah, he would still be charging batteries after every 5 nails  Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yea nails coming out 90 degrees from where they come in is nasty if you're holding the wood there Most common reason for accidents with nail gun. I have seen several people nail their finger/hand to wood they were holding. Best one was the 2 roofers where one put a nail through the other guys foot, who then put one in the other's leg as retaliation while he tried to run off the roof... ended up falling off the roof. Bosses rule was "if you fall off the roof your fired before you hit the ground" so nail in the leg, fell off the roof, and fired in a matter of seconds. And the nail gun sparks from the "firing pin" hitting the nail head. Its normal and will happen less the more you use it.
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Jun 10, 2019 21:32
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JEEVES420 posted:Nah, he would still be charging batteries after every 5 nails Guy I worked with just starting out doing finish work nailed his britches to his knee. (We always took the safeties off) He asked me to pull it out, and was fine until I pulled out a pair of side cutters. drat near passed out, lol. JEEVES420 posted:And the nail gun sparks from the "driver" hitting the nail head. Its normal and will happen less the more you use it. That's weird because the driver impacts the nail inside the carriage so you shouldn't even see a spark. Maybe the plastic coating is sorta flammable?
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Jun 10, 2019 21:57
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's weird because the driver impacts the nail inside the carriage so you shouldn't even see a spark. Maybe the plastic coating is sorta flammable? I was wondering if it was the nail scraping along the nose on the way out.
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Jun 10, 2019 22:07
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Don’t use plutonium or other pyrophoric nails.
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Jun 10, 2019 22:09
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Does anyone have a Milwaukee m18 18ga nailer? I hear it's not that great but I'm down the m18 rabbithole and would hate to buy another brand just for that.
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Jun 10, 2019 22:57
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dreesemonkey posted:Does anyone have a Milwaukee m18 18ga nailer? I hear it's not that great but I'm down the m18 rabbithole and would hate to buy another brand just for that. I think they just announced a new version is coming out in the fall so you might want to hold out for that
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Jun 11, 2019 00:55
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Modern drills and batteries are amazing. My neighbor helped me do a steel roof this weekend (84x18). I had a Dewalt 20v brushless, he had the Milwaukee version. We did the whole thing on one battery each. I even used the drill to cut a couple sheets.
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Jun 11, 2019 02:05
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JEEVES420 posted:Not carbide, cobalt Westward is expensive because it's Grainger's house brand. They're actually kind of low-grade, and Chinese. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/WESTWARD-15-Pc-Jobber-Drill-Bit-Set-401J91?breadcrumbCatId=28118&fc=MWP2IDP2PCP And yes, Cobalt-HSS on the lathe makes sense. Carbide is awesome in the machine shop with a rigid setup. A lot of the problem with cheap drills is the grind, I've fixed cheapies on the grinder and ended up with a semi-decent drill. However, in difficult to drill materials, or where accuracy matters, a good drill is really worth the coin. Even using Grainger, which isn't ever a good deal, the price difference isn't that huge. https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/CHICAGO-LATROBE-15-Pc-Jobber-Drill-Bit-Set-1M467?breadcrumbCatId=28118&fc=MWP2IDP2PCP Masonry drills are another matter, they're a brute force tool. And for drilling drywall, use the cheapest drill-shaped object easily at hand. Drilling large holes in wood? Use forstner bits, not spades or twists.
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Jun 11, 2019 12:11
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bobua posted:Despite my use of exotic oils, soothe-saying, and ample paste wax, I'm still dealing with rust quite a bit. I want something that's less aggressive than paint stripping disks for the angle grinder. Something like a scotch bright pad for it? Any recommendations? I have had good results from putting down the grinder and putting 320 grit paper on a 5" random orbital.
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Jun 11, 2019 14:29
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sharkytm posted:Drilling large holes in wood? Use forstner bits, not spades or twists. What is the appropriate use for a spade bit?
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Jun 11, 2019 15:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What is the appropriate use for a spade bit? For getting time off work when the bit grabs and the drill flips over and breaks your wrist. Spades are good for making roundish holes when you don't really care about the backside blowout, like drilling soft wood studs for running electrical/plumbing pipes. They're way faster than augers, and Forstners are only really used in woodworking. Also, they're cheap.
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Jun 11, 2019 16:01
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B-Nasty posted:For getting time off work when the bit grabs and the drill flips over and breaks your wrist. Yea I use them all the time running plumbing and you'd never use a forstner for that. Same if you're a sparky. A corded drill and a spade bit is definitely a recipe for some pain
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Jun 11, 2019 16:30
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I'm used them recently to countersink for carriage bolt heads in a rim joist. Not a particularly nice finished product, but it didn't need to be.
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Jun 11, 2019 17:41
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I need to buy some decent forstner bits but the sticker shock gets me every time so I resharpen my crappy ones and swear at them instead.
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Jun 11, 2019 21:37
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