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You're talking about cane berry blackberry right?
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Jun 14, 2019 18:25
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You're talking about cane berry blackberry right? It's this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Monrovia-1-73-Gallon-White-Blackberry-Baby-Cakes-Feature-Shrub-in-Pot/1000211221
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Jun 14, 2019 18:26
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Huxley posted:
O.K., an erect, dwarf, thornless, container-grown blackberry variety is way outside my blackberry experience. Way too civilized. I'm only familiar with pruning Himalayan Giant blackberries (alien invasive species here) which are a trailing variety and single crop rather than everbearing. All the named varieties we bought to experiment with (including some that were probably everbearing) weren't vigourous enough to compete with the Himalayan Giants and eventually disappeared from the hedgerow. Himalayan Giants don't need a particularly nuanced approach to pruning: trim off anything with a machete or brush cutter when it tries to escape from the hedgerow and then everything gets worked over with heavy machinery and a propane torch every three to five years. AFAIK everbearing erect blackberries and raspberries have the same fruiting scheme. You have a choice of pruning for everbearing (summer/fall crops) or a fall crop only. The fall crop is produced on new young-of-the-year canes (primocanes) that come up in the spring. If you want a single fall crop then after the leaves have dropped in the fall all the canes are cut down to a few centimetres above the soil. If you want two crops/everbearing then you leave the new primocanes to grow for a second spring at which point they become floricanes and produce the summer crop. If you want keep this everbearing pattern then prune out the floricanes immediately after they've fruited in the early summer or in the fall after the leaves have dropped. At this point the floricanes look really gnarly and obvious so there's little danger of mistaking them for the primocanes you want to leave to become next year's floricanes. In the fall/early winter primocanes get trimmed back to a little above their support wires otherwise they'll get too long with next spring's growth (and maybe stimulate more branching and flowers?  ). Thin/weak primocanes are removed completely so you end up with ~9 primocanes per plant going into the winter.However you decide to do it you can wait until after leaf drop to prune. Anything with green leaves is going to be putting nutrients into the roots so imo it's best to wait until after leaf drop unless the cane is obviously dead. Besides, I'm lazy and can't be arsed to hack berry canes in the summer when the job can easily wait until early winter.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:09
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Thanks! That actually does answer a few of my anxieties, namely that I might not be able to tell the difference between "spent summer fruit" vines and "will be fall fruit" vines. And it's nice to know that my worst-case scenario is I stump the whole plant in the winter and have to settle for only one season of fruit the following year. It's been in the proper ground for over a year now, so my roots should hopefully be deep and healthy.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:21
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The growth habit may be different, but the fundamentals are the same as for any “everbearing” cane berry. Anything that’s fruited recently is growth that survived the last winter, called “floricanes”. These will never bear again, so cut them down. You will get another crop in the fall. This is from the “primocanes” that have grown since spring. Don’t cut these back yet. They are next year’s floricanes and will bear their second crop this time next year.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:24
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Platystemon posted:The growth habit may be different, but the fundamentals are the same as for any “everbearing” cane berry. OK! So this summer I'll cut back the canes currently fruiting, then leave it alone. I'll get fruit in the fall and next summer on the same canes, which I'll then cut back.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:34
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I bought a family member a Raspberry Shortcake (also “Ruby Beauty”) that’s a product of the same breeding and marketing push and it’s living up to the hype. It has very interesting cane stems that are completely thornless, and it grows as a low bush. This compares favourably to a Canby I planted which has to be staked and is ostensibly “thornless” but actually has loads of thorns, albeit mostly harmless ones. Keeping up with (conventional) blackberry staking is worse than with raspberries to start with, so I’m interested in hearing if Baby Cakes (“Opal”) has a similarly radical growth habit.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:34
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Mowing the plants down after the fall harvest is something that commercial growers do to save on labour and control disease, and it does work, but I would only start doing it at home if the raspberry patch got out of control. If you do mow to the ground, you want to wait till the plant starts settling in for the winter. At this point, the plant has pulled much of its energy out of the canes and into the roots. You’ll get more vigorous growth come spring than if you had mowed immediately after harvest.
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Jun 14, 2019 20:44
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It's me, I'm the guy who planted a blackberry bush in the corner of the garden and is gradually realizing what a huge mistake that was. We didn't think it was going to be a whole garden originally, just a row of bushes. We thought they all died and then we figured might as well start the garden from that row and make it a square. Then the blackberries came back, with a vengeance. Shoots everywhere. I'm hoping we'll somehow be able to transplant it (it has thorns, so that won't be fun) but at least I know if we chop the hell out of it, it'll probably come back. Currently it's throwing way too much shade and sabotaging a few of our plants, and that'll only get worse.
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Jun 14, 2019 21:17
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I mixed my daikon and carrot patches in my root box. I did not realize daikon leaves grow much faster than carrot leaves, and forgot how big they are. RIP summer carrots I guess. I will plan better for my fall planting. At least the daikons look pretty happy. I was also trying to plant in segments to space out my harvest, but it looks like all that's doing is letting the first plants run away and shade the later ones. Given how much shade I'm working with already that is Not Good. Going to start planting everything at the same time and I guess I'll just have like 20 caixin at once to eat. Grand Fromage fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jun 14, 2019 |
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Jun 14, 2019 21:37
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That's me every spring when I talk myself into squeezing one row of "literally anything else" into a 4x4 box with one zucchini plant.
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Jun 14, 2019 21:46
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Sir Lemming posted:It's me, I'm the guy who planted a blackberry bush in the corner of the garden and is gradually realizing what a huge mistake that was. Living here in Metro Vancouver (and the UK before that), when Blackberry Bushes take hold, then it's war! Word to anyone considering a blackberry bush: CONFINE IT to something that keeps it managable. Buy good trimmers. My dad has one in a raised, walled, flower bed. Good luck getting out of that you bastard! Honestly, this is a crop that I just go and pick on the street around here there are so many.
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Jun 14, 2019 23:56
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Heners_UK posted:Living here in Metro Vancouver (and the UK before that), when Blackberry Bushes take hold, then it's war! Word to anyone considering a blackberry bush: CONFINE IT to something that keeps it managable. Buy good trimmers. My dad has one in a raised, walled, flower bed. Good luck getting out of that you bastard! The last line is wise. I made the mistake of trying to introduce cane berry to a unused area I had. It's gone now but what I SHOULD have done was try and introduce those delicious creeping blackberries mmmm. I tried a few this season we'll see how they do
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Jun 15, 2019 15:18
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Spring is rounding off well. Plenty of greens for whatever application. The nasturtiums did well too so will have some edible flowers to throw into salads. Collards are doing super well. Consider how much they cook down I always chafed at buying them, so pulling a few thick bundles out of the front yard has been very satisfying. I uprooted the spinach now that we got the last of that and planted some of our tomato and basil seed starters that 60-90 days old. Some of the tomato plants that made it in the ground or large pots a few weeks back are getting their first blossoms. The fennel is starting to get huge, if they make it to fall gonna have some great apple fennel salads. The work is starting to pay off. V excited for summer. Yiggy fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Jun 16, 2019 |
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Jun 16, 2019 04:46
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Please explain how you grow fennel! For the life of me I've never been able to get a root big enough to eat, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. I ate my turnips last week, they were amazing gonna grow a lot more in the fall. Most of my greens have bolted, and my melons and summer squash have all popped up. Pumpkins and winter squash have gone in the ground, probably a little early but eh. My garden might turn into a nightmare of vines in the next few weeks.
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Jun 16, 2019 05:19
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I’ve only grown fennel from starters. This year we got a bunch from a local plant swap and I’ve planted them on the west side of our home and in a planter that only gets sun in the afternoon. In the past after we’ve harvested the bulb plants would spring back up from the root. I imagine you could divide and propagate that way. In the Bay Area it was a weed and I’d see it everywhere.
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Jun 16, 2019 05:41
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2YntFbFRnvs Presented without comment
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Jun 16, 2019 09:16
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bengy81 posted:Please explain how you grow fennel! For the life of me I've never been able to get a root big enough to eat, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
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Jun 17, 2019 01:16
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bengy81 posted:Please explain how you grow fennel! For the life of me I've never been able to get a root big enough to eat, and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. It's not actually a root - the bulb grows above ground as swellings in the base of the stems. It starts developing shortly after the plant has put up a couple of leaves. If you have plants growing without producing bulbs I agree that this might be your problem, and yes, it is easy to buy the wrong seed packet: guri posted:To begin with make sure you have the variety that grows a bulb and not herb fennel. I've made that mistake before. You want a variety of Florence fennel. It's really easy to grow. The only concern is transplant shock - if you start indoors soil cubes or peat pots get the best results.
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Jun 17, 2019 02:18
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Weird. I've had two really successful and big gardens, been doing this for almost a decade. Today I was out there and the garden just sucks. Nothing is working. It's full of biting flies. It's hot as poo poo this year. All of my tomatoes are dead. All of my peppers are heading that way. And all of a sudden I just realized that I'm sick of doing this. I get zero enjoyment out of any of this any more. I've been frustrated before, been mad at pests, had whole plots of hot peppers die early, etc... But I think this might be the tipping point for me for a while. I think I'm going to start planning on replacing my current beat up old tobacco barn and fenced in garden area with a steel building and a greenhouse, maybe by next year. I'd rather spend a lot of effort on a few peppers, etc, as opposed to all this effort on several hundred square feet of bug ridden frustration. Sorry to whine. I guess I just wanted to vent.
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Jun 17, 2019 02:22
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I feel you. I spent all this money and time setting up a garden and the weather is just wet lovely garbage. Hardly anything is growing worth a poo poo. I'm just holding out hope that suddenly everything will perk up and staring at the like, three cucumbers while they grow.
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Jun 17, 2019 02:32
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mischief posted:Weird. I've had two really successful and big gardens, been doing this for almost a decade. I haev been so much happier with my garden since I replaced a significant chunk of it with a greenhouse
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Jun 17, 2019 04:00
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Whats the yellowing and spotting on our peppers? 
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Jun 17, 2019 13:23
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mischief posted:Weird. I've had two really successful and big gardens, been doing this for almost a decade.
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Jun 17, 2019 14:03
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Yeah, growing food for a while will really drive home just how wild it is that we can do it at all. It's also made me understand why mass application of pesticides was so readily adopted even as we watched them melt bird eggs.
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Jun 17, 2019 15:21
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mischief posted:Weird. I've had two really successful and big gardens, been doing this for almost a decade. I got to that point once last year. It just quit being fun. I think its easy to plan huge garden plots thinking that the future version of you will always have as much enthusiasm as you do when you first start out which isnt always the case. Never hurts to take a step back, scale back, and focus on what you really enjoy. For me next year I'm going to try and do way less weeding by making raised beds so I can focus more on my plants and less on taming my weedy garden plot.
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Jun 17, 2019 15:28
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toplitzin posted:Whats the yellowing and spotting on our peppers? Otherwise it looks kinda like bacterial leaf spot. If all of the brown bits are irregular, start between the veins, and are more plentiful around the edges of the leaves, that sounds like leaf spot. Usually the spots are kinda pushed in from the top---a little dent on the top of the leaf and a little hump on the underside. Sometimes it's not really defined enough to tell, though. Fertiliser burn can make similar-looking spots, but they tend to be better-defined and rounder. If it's leaf spot your options are pretty much to trim the affected leaves and hope for the best. I think there's a solution for seedlings showing signs (copper spray? copper in the irrigation?) but I think that's just for control/preventing spread to other plants, and I've never tried it.
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Jun 17, 2019 21:56
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Got a question about a weed - can anyone identify what this is? https://imgur.com/a/0qJqk6e The stem/stalk is ~1 meter high, there's a full length shot and one of the bulb at the tip. Location is Northern VA, west of DC.
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Jun 17, 2019 23:45
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Got a question about a weed - can anyone identify what this is? Thats wild garlic. It's flowered and is now growing little wild garlic bulblets to spread around. Yank it out of the ground and toss it in the garbage.
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Jun 18, 2019 00:46
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I'm going to be converting some empty protein powder jugs into planters for my balcony garden, and they'll end up being a cylinder that's about 8x8. I know I'm going to drill holes in the base for drainage, and I'm wondering if there would be any benefits of drilling small holes in the sides up the length of the container to give a little bit better aeration. Also, thanks for the advice on the pepper plant from a few pages ago- I elevated the sad pepper plant so the roots breathe a little bit more after watering, and it started to perk back up, so it looks like it was being overwatered and not draining well. It's hard to not want to overwater when the nighttime low is 88 degrees, but they're doing alright now.
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Jun 18, 2019 06:45
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Gstu posted:I'm going to be converting some empty protein powder jugs into planters for my balcony garden, and they'll end up being a cylinder that's about 8x8. I know I'm going to drill holes in the base for drainage, and I'm wondering if there would be any benefits of drilling small holes in the sides up the length of the container to give a little bit better aeration.   People do it. The concept is called “air pruning” if you want to read more. I don’t know if holes in a cylindrical, smooth‐walled container do the job, but they might. Personally, I just like holes around the sides at the very bottom of the pot, like on this:  Drains well on a flat surface, as long as it’s not standing in a puddle, and the holes are available for inspection without lifting the pot. I put a layer of coarse perlite up to the top of the drainage holes.
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Jun 18, 2019 07:04
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So summer has mostly been a failure, despite cooler and wetter than normal weather generally. I forgot to water some of the stuff I was starting inside, so the baby tomatoes, peppers, and chilies all got fried. None of my other stuff really took off outside, with the exception of some garlic and potatoes. Hypotheses: 1) Something has been nibbling on the top of all my peas. I assume squirrels. Put out live traps starting now and try to catch the fuckers. 2) I've been growing in the same raised beds for three years now, and haven't fertilized. Need to buy some compost and top all the beds with it now, cover in mulch, and prep plantings for mid-July (green beans) and August (herb garden, cool season veggies). 3) I'm not sure my watering system is working the way it's supposed to. Clear off mulch, turn on spigot, and check for leaks/blockages. 4) Go to the nursery, buy tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers, and melons. Plant beans and melons near the corn. 5) Go to the farmers market in early September and actually plant local garlic then instead of stuff I found at Walmart in February. I'm also going to move my seed starting setup from a closet to my kitchen window where I'll see it every day and not forget to water it. Bleah. This worked so well the first couple years. And my hawk that was murdering various critters hasn't shown up this year. Sigh.
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Jun 18, 2019 15:13
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Does anyone know of a watering timer that can do intervals of more than a week? I'd like to set up something for my trees that does every 2 weeks-1 month.
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Jun 18, 2019 15:43
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Platystemon posted:
I like hydroton pebbles for the same purpose.
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Jun 18, 2019 17:42
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:Thats wild garlic. It's flowered and is now growing little wild garlic bulblets to spread around. Yank it out of the ground and toss it in the garbage. Thanks for the ID. Told my father to do just this. He was all  that it might be something that'd "blister his hand or something." 
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Jun 18, 2019 20:54
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Thanks for the ID. Told my father to do just this. He was all If you pull up the bulb, clean it thoroughly, peel it, slice it, and then fry it in oil, it might blister your mouth, unless you let it cool a little before you eat it.
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Jun 18, 2019 21:48
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Thanks for the ID. Told my father to do just this. He was all Sounds like he's encountered giant hogweed/cow parsnip. Which is baaaaaad.
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Jun 18, 2019 22:49
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Manual slug killing log: day 6. It appears slugs feast on the rotting remains of their comrades. Pro-tip - leave the corpses of the previous day's victims in easily visible areas (e.g. the patio) which has the dual benefit of a) attracting the next day's victims to easily visible areas so you can decimate them once the sun goes down, and b) attracts them away from your loving spinach
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Jun 18, 2019 23:06
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Crakkerjakk posted:Does anyone know of a watering timer that can do intervals of more than a week? I'd like to set up something for my trees that does every 2 weeks-1 month. This is more of a curiosity/joke suggestion, but I wonder if it would work to hook 2 up in series and adjust the timing so that they're only both on once every few weeks? The accuracy and repeatability would need to be somewhat OK (like repeatable to like 10% the watering time or something). For example, you could set one to every 3 days and the other to every 5 days. On the 15th day they should line up. But if it's 3 days +/- 1 hour then that may not work since they wouldn't actually line up. edit: Or 1 week and 2 days (or 3 days or 4) for 2 weeks/3 weeks/1 month Eeyo fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Jun 19, 2019 |
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Jun 19, 2019 03:02
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oh no computer posted:Manual slug killing log: day 6. It appears slugs feast on the rotting remains of their comrades. Pro-tip - leave the corpses of the previous day's victims in easily visible areas (e.g. the patio) which has the dual benefit of a) attracting the next day's victims to easily visible areas so you can decimate them once the sun goes down, and b) attracts them away from your loving spinach The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > DIY > Veggies and Herb Gardening - It appears slugs feast on the rotting remains of their comrades
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Jun 19, 2019 03:28
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