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Bloody posted:how do I get started with, like, real woodworking? Pick projects that you want to work on and work on them. If you get stuck, ask questions and search the web. Read the manuals for your power tools and wear appropriate protective gear when using them (especially goggles and hearing protection, but a dust mask/respirator is also recommended for lots of tools).
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Jul 16, 2019 01:15
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I’m gonna make a crosscut sled, but I have a portable table saw so my work surface isn't too big...28" wide and 22” deep (not including table extension). What kind of width and length should I make this thing so it's not too difficult to work with?
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Jul 16, 2019 02:05
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BraveUlysses posted:I’m gonna make a crosscut sled, but I have a portable table saw so my work surface isn't too big...28" wide and 22” deep (not including table extension). Don't make one so wide you have to shove your fence out to its limit, that never feels good to work with. You don't want your sled to try and pitch forward off the end of your table when you make a cut, so around the length of the blade's midpoint to end of table is about as far as I'd go. You can cheat some and add a bunch of weight on your push side. I have a Rigid tablesaw that isn't very long, and positioned terribly for an outfeed table, so my current everyday use sled is only about 18" square.
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Jul 16, 2019 03:23
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Just going to leave this here. https://irregularcorp.itch.io/woodwork-simulator-prototype
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Jul 16, 2019 19:40
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Shop reorganization time! Splitting into metal and woodworking sections. Woodworking section gets to be near the garage port now. This is the new layout, I moved the bandsaw from the other wall and and the woodworking bench used to be in the far right corner. I still need to redo all the tool walls. I have mostg of a sheet of 1/2" plywood I will put up behind the woodworking bench. Last night I removed the lower racks, the 3phase outlet needs to be moved as well.  I love having a shop crane. 600kg of bandsaw is no problem to move.  Last night I also reused this old shelf/bench I made from scrap and I turned it on it's side and installed the shelves that way, I feel it's much more efficient and compact for storing off cuts  Also considering if I can make some kind of vertical lumber storage in order to get rid of some of these lumber racks near the ceiling. I figure once lumber dries enough to be brought inside it's good to store vertically, it's when drying it should be horizontal and weighted down. I am limited by a low ceiling height though, only 2500mm. Last night was the first time since november 2018 I ran the table saw, my shop has been an explody mess because of that big milling machine in the center of the shop. Had to give the table saw a good clean up before I used it.
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Jul 17, 2019 07:37
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His Divine Shadow posted:Shop reorganization time! Splitting into metal and woodworking sections. Woodworking section gets to be near the garage port now. Dude, the safety inspectors are all over your equipment, FYI. A cherry picker, why has that never occurred to anyone? Nice shop, drat nice in fact.
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Jul 17, 2019 15:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Pick projects that you want to work on and work on them. If you get stuck, ask questions and search the web. Read the manuals for your power tools and wear appropriate protective gear when using them (especially goggles and hearing protection, but a dust mask/respirator is also recommended for lots of tools). I'm a novice and I've developed two sentiments about starting this hobby in particular: 1 - Every project will look easier than it is. This has been true for most of my projects, but I've only had a handful. 2 - I've cursed myself more than I've rewarded myself for being stubborn and impatient. 3 - I've cursed myself more than I've thanked myself for being cheap.
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Jul 17, 2019 16:04
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Wasabi the J posted:I'm a novice and I've developed two sentiments about starting this hobby in particular: 1- Every project will look easier than it is and once you figure it out that will become true (probably through failure) 2 - FEAR IS THE MINDKILLER - do not let perfection paralysis hold you back. Explore and learn and fail and become better 3 - Yes
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Jul 17, 2019 16:17
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4. Don't count cost of tools in the total cost of a project Honestly though, if you are just starting out it doesn't hurt to go cheap till you figure out what tools you use the most and what kind of work you like to do. Don't go out and buy $1000 worth of planes only to figure out hand tools suck.
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Jul 17, 2019 16:33
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JEEVES420 posted:Don't go out and buy $1000 worth of planes only to figure out hand tools suck. I feel attacked.
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Jul 17, 2019 17:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude, the safety inspectors are all over your equipment, FYI. Thanks, and the inspectors are very corrupt and easily bribed with ground beef. They're more like needy dogs than cats, always following you around, coming when you call even, always need to be in you lap, or shoulder. I removed the lumber racks and made a new tool wall today, this time I painted it white, then sanded it a bit to make it look more even as the paint roller left a pattern.   Still need a better clamp storage solution though. And some kinda wall-hanging set up for the lathe so I don't have to keep it on the bench.
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Jul 17, 2019 18:30
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Nice work. What's the item hanging right above the window?
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Jul 17, 2019 20:36
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That's a router circle jig
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Jul 17, 2019 20:42
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JEEVES420 posted:Don't go out and buy $1000 worth of planes only to figure out hand tools suck. what the gently caress
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Jul 17, 2019 21:53
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His Divine Shadow posted:Thanks, and the inspectors are very corrupt and easily bribed with ground beef. They're more like needy dogs than cats, always following you around, coming when you call even, always need to be in you lap, or shoulder.
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Jul 18, 2019 01:04
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The bandsaw is swedish, probably a Göteneds made in the 40s or 50s I think. No real info on it aside from it has 50mm or 24" wheels and a 2.2kw 3ph motor (not original, east-german manufacture). For 200 euros it's one of my best buys so far.  Table saw isn't that old, 1976 manufcature. German made and still around today, Rapid PK-100, it can take a 300/12" blade but then won't fully retract under the table so I just use 10" blades: http://www.rapid-maschinenbau.de/PK-100_en.html  The design has a few things I don't like, such as the dovetailed slots. I have nothing that uses the slots because of this. I think they need to be square so you can lift stuff straight up and plonk it straight down and not have to insert it from the front. Instead I use the sliding table. Been considering modding it... More modern versions of the sliding table have a built in miter fence. I would like that. I want to rebuild the sliding fence to something more compact, it's great when you need to cut really long items, the fence extends to double the length, I've cut up to 4 meters in length on it. But for 99% of work I can do with something shorter, and a miter function would be great to have.
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Jul 18, 2019 07:30
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His Divine Shadow posted:The bandsaw is swedish, probably a Göteneds made in the 40s or 50s I think. No real info on it aside from it has 50mm or 24" wheels and a 2.2kw 3ph motor (not original, east-german manufacture). For 200 euros it's one of my best buys so far.
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Jul 18, 2019 12:19
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mikeycp posted:what the gently caress I, myself, was trying to solve a utilitarian problem and was not getting consistent results with hand tools, as a lot of it is technique. Power tools make work look easy. So now I can gently caress up much more efficiently than I did with hand tools! Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 20:12
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I'm trying to refinish our pantry, and I'm new to woodworking and wood, uh, reinvigoration. My goal is to bring the pantry sort of back to life. I've started by sanding the fronts of our drawers, although I ended up finding out that denatured alcohol dissolves the current finish, so I'll probably use that for the rest of the doors and the frame, with a 220 grit pass once the finish has been rubbed off. Cleaning the wood off isn't what I'm here for though. I'm trying to figure out how to finish the wood once it's bare. I'll run through the options: 1. Paint - Not happening 2. Stain and then Poly - I don't think I want to go this route since stain penetrates into the wood, and if we ever wanted to remove the stain, it would require standing a fair bit of wood off. If this were a piece of furniture that would be one thing, but we're talking about a pantry that's built into the house. I'd prefer to minimize the amount of semi-permanent changes (as opposed to a shellac, which I can remove without impacting the wood beneath). 3. PolyShades - Poly with stain additive. Still gives you the color of the stain, with the ability to remove it as a poly. I'm sure it doesn't look as good as staining, then poly, but it has the benefit of being removable without impacting the wood. 4. Everything else - tung oil, various other things you can rub into wood, ???? Here's what the bare wood drawers look like right now:  I'm inclined to keep them very light colored. I'm thinking they'd look great if they were similar in tone to this wood:  http://www.home-designing.com/2014/08/a-modern-apartment-celebrates-the-look-of-natural-wood What I'm not interested in is a mid-tone. I'd like these to be either quite light, or much more on the darker end of the spectrum, maybe a mahogany. However, I will say that some of the wood refinishing videos I've watched (this one in particular https://youtube.com/watch?v=IYOxT9WeKdw)had some beautiful results. With the goal of keeping the wood looking light, I considered putting glossy poly over the bare wood as is, but I wasn't sure if I'd end up with a flat-looking but also shiny wood. I did try applying Restor A Finish to the bare drawers and I didn't love it. I'd consider another substance if it would give me results more like what I saw in the video linked above. I guess my general question is "what should I do to this wood to make it really pretty"
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Jul 18, 2019 20:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are those wooden blade guides I spy on the bandsaw? We used to keep around tiny little bits of teak or lignum vitae to make guides for one our saws because they are oily and self lubricating. I didn’t realize the other was a slider-I’m jealous. The upper guides are made to house some round stock of some kind, not sure what it was supposed to be, the previous owners had jammed some birch in there. I'm currently using steel after I saw John Heisz using them. I would like to try something else though.
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Jul 18, 2019 21:05
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm trying to refinish our pantry, and I'm new to woodworking and wood, uh, reinvigoration. My goal is to bring the pantry sort of back to life. I've started by sanding the fronts of our drawers, although I ended up finding out that denatured alcohol dissolves the current finish, so I'll probably use that for the rest of the doors and the frame, with a 220 grit pass once the finish has been rubbed off. Cleaning the wood off isn't what I'm here for though. It is quite difficult to lighten wood-what you see there is the lightest it is going to get without some sort of pickled finish (basically white stain), so I don't think you are going to be able to get the lighter color in the picture you posted. Going dark has some complications as well because softwoods take stain unevenly on the growth rings. I would try an some sort of water white, water borne acrylic like https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-polycrylic-protective-finish which is probably going to be your best bet for not darkening the wood, though I suspect it is heart pine and it is going to tend towards the amber colors no matter what you do. Tung oil or any oil product is going to darken the wood and be hard to get out of the wood down the line. Stay the gently caress away from polyshades that stuff is god awful. I'd avoid polyurethanes in general because they can be quite difficult to strip. I think your cabinets look very nice as is, and love the amber color but different strokes. What are of the country are you in? It looks like gorgeous old yellow heart pine or cypress to me, but it could well also be fir if you're on the west coast. The refinishing video you posted is pretty decent, but using a card scraper is harder than it looks-the piece you posted in the other thread you might not have to strip and you could repair with shellac.
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Jul 18, 2019 22:59
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Wasabi the J posted:I, myself, was trying to solve a utilitarian problem and was not getting consistent results with hand tools, as a lot of it is technique. that doesn't mean they suck! imo they're fun and very satisfying when you actually get something looking good on the other end!
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Jul 19, 2019 00:50
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You're in luck-if alcohol strips your cabinets they they just have a shellac finish. Why are you stripping them anyway? The stuff in the background of the picture looks in good shape to me, and shellac is quite easy to repair. We're stripping them because we don't like them that color. And half of it is bare now, so no going back. -My goal isn't to lighten this wood specifically, rather, one path is sealing it at the current shade with no intent of making it darker, yellower, more amber, etc. Mostly I'm trying to stay away from orange tones. -I fully believe that polyshades are crap that woodworkers look down on. They seemed to be an amateur solution worth considering if true stain isn't in the picture. -We're in upstate NY. -The piece I posted in the interior decorating thread is just a dresser I was considering. These drawers are from our butler's pantry. The polycrylic you linked looks like a solid choice. From my various research, lacquer seems like a good choice that won't tint the wood too much either. Does that sound correct? Really at the end of the day I just want this to look as good as it can, with the caveats that I'd like it to A. stay away from the orange tones as much as possible and B. be glossy. I'm open to whatever you guys think the best way to achieve these two goals is.
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Jul 19, 2019 01:41
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mikeycp posted:that doesn't mean they suck! imo they're fun and very satisfying when you actually get something looking good on the other end! Correct. But that's not fun hyperbole so....
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Jul 19, 2019 08:44
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Wasabi the J posted:Correct. But that's not fun hyperbole so.... forums are serious business!!!
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Jul 19, 2019 08:57
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mikeycp posted:that doesn't mean they suck! imo they're fun and very satisfying when you actually get something looking good on the other end! Different strokes is all I am saying. Some enjoy hand tools, others power. Don't drop a ton of money on one (or both) only to find out you don't like something. I grew up using nothing but hand tools. Then I worked with power tools and could do the same task easier and quicker. I do not find pleasure in using them now, they have their places but a cheap plane works just fine as its not a go to tool for me. First time I resawed a board with a band saw instead of a hand saw I had one of those "what have I been doing with my life" moments.
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Jul 19, 2019 15:36
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Any tips or tricks for hand-sharpening a tiny v-gouge? The concept is pretty easy, but it's a 2mm tool and I think I'm struggling with not having feeling for things that would be more obvious on a bigger tool (like keeping the bevel flat)
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Jul 19, 2019 15:49
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Fairly new woodworker here, looking to finish (seal) a project. In the past I've just used polyurethane, but I recently found a video saying to mix equal parts polyurethane, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits and then apply it as a sealing mixture. I applied the first coat last night with a foam brush but this morning it seems like it didn't even apply to the wood; there are a lot of bare areas that feel like wood. I'm using pine, no stain, sanded to 180; is it normal for it to look like that at the first coat? Or is this mixture idea a bad thing? As in, do the mineral spirits dilute the other sealants? Any sealing suggestions from your experience? Thank you!
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Jul 19, 2019 17:17
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That's a very easy finish to apply but it will require lots of coats because it's been thinned with mineral spirits. You could apply it with an old tshirt if you want and still get great results. The reason it might look uneven is because pine will absorb the finish at different rates. It's one of the reasons people recommend against finishing pine. Try a few more coats and see how it looks. You can reduce the amount of BLO for future coats as it becomes unnecessary. e: I'm very much an amateur, but I'm using the same sealant recipe on a piece right now.
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Jul 19, 2019 21:03
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extravadanza posted:That's a very easy finish to apply but it will require lots of coats because it's been thinned with mineral spirits. You could apply it with an old tshirt if you want and still get great results. This. I used a 50-50 mix of wipe-on poly and mineral spirits on my last project, but sanded, cleaned, and reapplied with t-shirt strips and after 5 coats it was very smooth and natural feeling while being water resistant. Even if one coat goes on bad you can always lightly sand and add another thin layer.
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Jul 19, 2019 21:29
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I have a question about saws, well, one saw specifically. I bought this backsaw a while ago and whenever I try to use it and no matter how soft the wood I'm cutting, I just can't do any push cuts, I can only pull. The teeth are asymmetrical but they're sharpened on both sides, I don't really understand why it binds so much on the push.
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Jul 19, 2019 21:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have a question about saws, well, one saw specifically. That’s really odd. The only thing I can think of is that you are pushing too hard and forcing the teeth too deep. I think the best advice for sawing that I was ever given was “let the saw do the cutting”. Light pressure to start using only the weight of the saw itself. That is definitely a push saw, not a pull saw.
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Jul 19, 2019 22:32
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mds2 posted:That’s really odd. The only thing I can think of is that you are pushing too hard and forcing the teeth too deep. I think the best advice for sawing that I was ever given was “let the saw do the cutting”. Light pressure to start using only the weight of the saw itself. That is definitely a push saw, not a pull saw. This, especially when you first start out. Sometimes it takes 4-5 strokes in one direction before you can start to cut in both. Also make sure the wood isn't pinching the blade as you cut.
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Jul 19, 2019 22:48
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That is totally reasonable advice, but it won't budge no matter how much or little pressure I use and how close or far I am from the start or end of the cut. I don't have the same problem with other saws I have.
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Jul 20, 2019 00:02
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Been getting into woodworking as a hobby that isnt staring at a monitor. Cutting a bunch of dovetails to try and get used to sawing straight and using chisels. Attempt #1  Attempt #7  Actually fairly proud of that last one, was getting pretty discouraged, started using a chisel for the finishing on that one rather than expecting to be able to do it straight from the saw. Sanding it covered a couple small gaps. I think I may have caught the bug, god help me. Might try a box next.
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Jul 20, 2019 00:48
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I got so many pen blanks and scraps to gun into pen blanks at this estate sale. There’s no better feeling finding a box of 40 or so blanks already drilled and with tubes glued in and paying 5 bucks for the lot.
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Jul 20, 2019 02:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:That is totally reasonable advice, but it won't budge no matter how much or little pressure I use and how close or far I am from the start or end of the cut. I don't have the same problem with other saws I have. After further experimentation I think this is a combination of blunted teeth and poor technique. It cuts a lot easier to the nose of the blade and pushes OK over the whole length under ideal conditions e.g. very clean force vector.
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Jul 20, 2019 13:30
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Is there a go-to book for new people that covers the basic wood specific power tools? I am working in a tiny 1-car garage and just want to get a feel for what I need to do nicer stuff. I guess just an intro book recommendation in general. I got a Kreg pocket hole jig and used it to very crudely but effectively build some shelves and enjoyed it more than I thought I would.
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Jul 20, 2019 21:22
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TBH i'd think just becoming part of a woodworking community and actively investigating anything you're particularly interested in would be of better service to you, reaching out to posters making stuff you'd like to make and asking about their shop setups, etc. The thing about special-interest books for stuff like this is that they're almost invariably out of date. That's irrelevant if you're looking for project builds or patterns (style conventions aside, i'm looking at you, book of plywood projects from the 70s) but if you're specifically interested in power tools, seeing what other people are working with Right Here Right Now is more likely to give you good info. Your Kreg jig, for example, is ubiquitous nowadays and the obvious best-fit approach for most straightforward, utilitarian furniture joinery, especially for the novice, but you won't find any mention of that in anything published before the ... early 90s, iirc. I do traditional metalworking like blacksmithing, and this effect is even more pronounced there- books are a great resource, but almost strictly as a historical one. Plenty of excellent books were written when it was a current industrial/manufacturing trade, and borderline-academic tiny-print-volume publications by/for restoration ironworkers never stopped, but the North American ironworking revival has been almost strictly community-based, facilitated through the internet clear back into the 90s before that was particularly common. If I were interested in how modern smiths used technology to work smarter and not harder I could learn virtually nothing at all from books in general. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:33 on Jul 20, 2019 |
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Jul 20, 2019 21:47
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That makes sense. I had never even heard of a Kreg jig until recently and it has already more than paid for itself. I told my dad about it, who learned very utilitarian woodworking as a kid in the 60s and 70s and he was amazed to hear of such a thing.
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Jul 20, 2019 21:55
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