Arduino: Eh, just grab some pliers and bend the pins

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Arduino: Eh, just grab some pliers and bend the pins

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ante: Apr 9, 2005; SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

I don't understand what's making the beep, the Uno does not have any noise making capability

# ? Aug 19, 2019 01:18

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# ? May 29, 2024 19:06

bawfuls: Oct 28, 2009

Maybe it's not a beep but it's definitely making an audible noise at high frequency.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 01:36

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

Is the 12v feed from the car actually 12v when it is running? I've seen them unregulated and hitting 16 or more. Meter it while the vehicle is running.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 01:40

ante: Apr 9, 2005; SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

Yeah, I probably wouldn't run an Arduino directly from a car's 12V line and expect it to survive long, that's real dirty power

# ? Aug 19, 2019 01:43

bawfuls: Oct 28, 2009

As noted it's around 13.4v. Reminder, this in a converted electric vehicle so the "12v" power comes from a dc/dc converter which steps the 114v pack down to 12v to charge a standard car battery and power all the usual car stuff on 12v. I'd actually expect that to be a bit better than an alternator-fed 12v source, but I'm no electrical engineer so idk.

The Arduino is supposed to accept up to 20v so surely 13.4v isn't that big a deal?

If it is, what's the solution? The BMS runs off the car's 12v power without issue, do I need some additional piece of hardware to condition the power in some way?

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:05

shame on an IGA: Apr 8, 2005

Wait a decade or two until the ravages of time make you unable to hear that frequency range.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:22

babyeatingpsychopath: Oct 28, 2000; Forum Veteran

bawfuls posted:

As noted it's around 13.4v. Reminder, this in a converted electric vehicle so the "12v" power comes from a dc/dc converter which steps the 114v pack down to 12v to charge a standard car battery and power all the usual car stuff on 12v. I'd actually expect that to be a bit better than an alternator-fed 12v source, but I'm no electrical engineer so idk.

The Arduino is supposed to accept up to 20v so surely 13.4v isn't that big a deal?

If it is, what's the solution? The BMS runs off the car's 12v power without issue, do I need some additional piece of hardware to condition the power in some way?

The DC-DC converter is stupid noisy and the beep you're hearing is the linear regulator on the arduino switching at audio frequencies. A big capacitor will probably help this. You should be able to hook across your supply lines, and/or across "VIN" and "GND" on the board, if that doesn't help.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:26

bawfuls: Oct 28, 2009

Thanks, that makes sense. How big? I got one of those kits with lots of miscelaneous bits for the Uno (jumpers, LEDs, resistors etc). The largest capacitor it came with is 100 microFarads which doesn't sound "big" to me.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:33

babyeatingpsychopath: Oct 28, 2000; Forum Veteran

bawfuls posted:

Thanks, that makes sense. How big? I got one of those kits with lots of miscelaneous bits for the Uno (jumpers, LEDs, resistors etc). The largest capacitor it came with is 100 microFarads which doesn't sound "big" to me.

Start with literally whatever you have, and if it doesn't fix the problem, go find a bigger electrolytic somewhere. An EE will probably be able to calculate what it should be, but 100uF seems like it's in the right ballpark.

e: I typed "input filter capacitor calculator" into google and got something.
C = I / (2 x f x Vpp)

Pulling numbers out of my rear end, I is (say) 200mA, Vpp shouldn't be too huge, say 1V. High audio frequency is ~15kHz, unless you can give the pitch of the tone.

C= .2/(2 * 15,000 * 1) =6uF. Adjust for your currents and the pitch and the voltage ripple, but 100uF seems ok.

babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Aug 19, 2019

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:52

ante: Apr 9, 2005; SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

I would classify anything over 10uF as big-ish

Too many unknowns to figure out the exact "right" value, but guess-and-check is an accepted method for this kind of thing. Any value will shift the frequency, just gotta do it enough so it no longer bothers you

# ? Aug 19, 2019 02:59

taqueso: Mar 8, 2004

nevermind

# ? Aug 19, 2019 03:37

bawfuls: Oct 28, 2009

Is it potentially damaging to the Uno to have it powered like this without the capacitor?

# ? Aug 19, 2019 03:54

ante: Apr 9, 2005; SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

Assuming that it's a clean voltage that is within the range the board claims to be able to handle, it's fine.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 03:55

mod sassinator: Dec 13, 2006; I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

bawfuls posted:

edit: unrelated followup, what is a good robust way to make these connections to the Uno for the long term? Right now I have trimmed a few generic breadboard jumpers, stripped one end, and soldered that to other wires I can then connect to the gauge wires and the BMS serial wires. But these jumpers seem like they could pop out of the Uno easily, particularly once the car is in motion. Is there something more robust that would secure to the Uno with a clip of some kind?

I would find an Arduino uno clone (an exact clone, there are billion different Arduino boards and variants) that's sold without the headers soldered on. Then you can just solder right to the holes in the board. Something like this: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2466

Alternatively you can throw one of these shields on for more secure screw terminal connection: https://www.adafruit.com/product/196 But it's not much cheaper than buying a new board, and it's a lot clunkier and bigger.

I wouldn't trust any method of trying to stick wires into the female headers on the Arduino.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 04:05

bawfuls: Oct 28, 2009

100 uF in parallel with the Vin and GND made no difference. I tried all 5 of the 100 uF I have in parallel and still sounds the same.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 04:09

Sagebrush: Feb 26, 2012

The linear regulator shouldn't be making noise in the first place -- there's nothing in it that moves. When a transformer or whatever is humming it's because of the metal plates that make up the core vibrating against each other, and they only move because of the switching magnetic field. The Arduino's 7805 or whatever is completely solid-state and the current flow should be so small I can't imagine there being a lot of force.

I don't suppose you have an oscilloscope, do you?

Can you pinpoint exactly which component is making the noise and take a picture of it?

# ? Aug 19, 2019 04:31

Splode: Jun 18, 2013; put some clothes on you little freak

You could buy an off the shelf USB car charger, that'll convert the 12V to 5V for you and will only cost a few dollars.

12V down to 5V is a really big drop to inflict on a linear voltage regulator anyway.

# ? Aug 19, 2019 09:22

Ambrose Burnside: Aug 30, 2007; pensive

Ambrose Burnside posted:

I play paintball with an old school stock-class marker, the kind that uses 10-round paint tubes fed into an internal tube magazine on top of the gun instead of standard bigass bulk-feed hoppers. I'd like to make some sort of ammunition counter for it, but I'm not sure the best way to go about it. The problem is that the paintballs aren't 'indexed' in the tube- there's no spring to keep them in a predictable position, they roll back and forth in the tube except when it's pointed downwards. I'm thinking about two different approaches to getting a paint count:

1) stud the side of the tube with 10 (cheap, paintball-sensing) proximity sensors and calibrate them to be triggered when the sensed range approaches zero (so it will only trip when the widest point of a ball is adjacent and not an edge or the far side of the tube or whatever. Sum the number of triggered sensors at any given time and illuminate the appropriate number of LEDs, probably with some pausing or taking of averages to address probable ammo count 'flickering' with ball movement.

2) install a single rangefinder at the rear of the magazine, ranging down its length. The sensed range will correspond to a specific number of paintballs in the magazine. I'd address paintball rolling count issues with the programming, tell it to hold the count whenever the sensed distance changes too quickly for more than a brief moment or something to that effect.

I'd be building a new paint tube for this, so I'd probably help things along by giving the tube more of a downward slope and would also design it around housing the sensors in a robust and well-protected way. IRT #1, I'm really not sure what sensors I would use- those little inductive proximity sensors would be perfect (like $2 each, contactless/non-optical so ideal for the rough n dirty use environment) but I'm pretty sure they're useless for paintballs, unless they could detect the interference between the sensor and the metal tube wall on the far side or something like that (I've never worked with em). Similarly for #2, rangefinding in such a dirty environment is probably a nightmare, but at least there I only need the one sensor so I can spend more than a couple bucks for it.

(if I really go buck-wild with the daydreaming the counter doesn't output to LEDs on the tube body, but instead is sent wirelessly to a board built into the paintball mask which puts the ammo count right in front of my eyes at all times (a pseudo-HUD/projection or tiny LEDs outside the mask lens or something) but one step at a time)

i'm revisiting this now b/c im finally working up a BOM- going with 10 38khz IR emitters/receiver pairs set into pits along the length of the tube, for the record- and i'm excited because I realized I can make this thing do double- or triple-duty irt useful functions. every field has a ballistic chronometer you use to dial in your shooting speed, you make use of them fairly often. I looked into DIY ballistic chronometer designs, entirely separate from the paintball thing, adn realized you can make sth very accurate using, wait for it, pairs of IR emitters/receivers set a known distance apart, with a zippy microcontroller doing the math. so if I tapped one end of the tube mag to match the threads on the end of the barrel + add an end plug or facility to make the tube open at both ends, and then throw together some chronometer programming taken from an example sketch, it ought to be able to function interchangeably as a shot-counting tube magazine and a ballistic chronometer with a quick hardware switcheroo

i reckon i could do one better than a counting mag -OR- a chrony, though- i bet i can do both simultaneously with just add-on parts. hopefully only like idk 3-5" of spacing between the chronometer beams is enough to get reasonably-accurate FPS readings because that way i could screw the FPS apparatus onto the end of the barrel as a big stupid muzzle brake, no permanent gun modification necessary. constant FPS readings with every shot would open up the door to all kinds of cool stuff, like cylinder swap indications or overpressure/misfire warnings. i change out 12-gram CO2 chargers every 25-35 shots and you either 1) discard chargers early to play it safe, which is wasteful, or 2) shoot until you see your shots falling short, also wasteful + happens at rly inconvenient times. Something that'd immediately tell you when two sequential shots fall below 10-15% of the field FPS cap or sth like that would by itself be almost as useful as magazine level tracking, but before now i assumed that'd need substantial gas line modifications and sphygomanometers and poo poo like that to directly measure gas pressure so I didn't think on it much. FPS module on the barrel tip, counting mag replacing the current tube mag (also housing the microcontroller + battery + display/indication hardware), and join the two into a single system w a wire run down the length of the barrel.

Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 22, 2019

# ? Aug 22, 2019 21:04

babyeatingpsychopath: Oct 28, 2000; Forum Veteran

Ambrose Burnside posted:

i'm revisiting this now b/c im finally working up a BOM- going with 10 38khz IR emitters/receiver pairs set into pits along the length of the tube, for the record- and i'm excited because I realized I can make this thing do double- or triple-duty irt useful functions. every field has a ballistic chronometer you use to dial in your shooting speed, you make use of them fairly often. I looked into DIY ballistic chronometer designs, entirely separate from the paintball thing, adn realized you can make sth very accurate using, wait for it, pairs of IR emitters/receivers set a known distance apart, with a zippy microcontroller doing the math. so if I tapped one end of the tube mag to match the threads on the end of the barrel + add an end plug or facility to make the tube open at both ends, and then throw together some chronometer programming taken from an example sketch, it ought to be able to function interchangeably as a shot-counting tube magazine and a ballistic chronometer with a quick hardware switcheroo

i reckon i could do one better than a counting mag -OR- a chrony, though- i bet i can do both simultaneously with just add-on parts. hopefully only like idk 3-5" of spacing between the chronometer beams is enough to get reasonably-accurate FPS readings because that way i could screw the FPS apparatus onto the end of the barrel as a big stupid muzzle brake, no permanent gun modification necessary. constant FPS readings with every shot would open up the door to all kinds of cool stuff, like cylinder swap indications or overpressure/misfire warnings. i change out 12-gram CO2 chargers every 25-35 shots and you either 1) discard chargers early to play it safe, which is wasteful, or 2) shoot until you see your shots falling short, also wasteful + happens at rly inconvenient times. Something that'd immediately tell you when two sequential shots fall below 10-15% of the field FPS cap or sth like that would by itself be almost as useful as magazine level tracking, but before now i assumed that'd need substantial gas line modifications and sphygomanometers and poo poo like that to directly measure gas pressure so I didn't think on it much. FPS module on the barrel tip, counting mag replacing the current tube mag (also housing the microcontroller + battery + display/indication hardware), and join the two into a single system w a wire run down the length of the barrel.

This is neat, and i approve of the concept. Are you going to need a fairly beefy microcontroller to pulsecount 2+10 LEDs?

# ? Aug 25, 2019 19:36

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

Does there exist an esp8266/esp32 class device that has GPS + antenna + Bluetooth 5.0 all on the same board? Yes I know gps doesn't like a lot of noise but Garmin manages to do ok with their devices all packed in tight.

I found at least one esp32 device but it has an external mount antenna.

# ? Aug 27, 2019 22:27

porksmash: Sep 30, 2008

I don't think anything exist in the hobby board space but you could do something like these two, which are very small boards: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3133 https://www.adafruit.com/product/3405

# ? Aug 28, 2019 02:49

JawnV6: Jul 4, 2004; So hot ...

Hadlock posted:

Yes I know gps doesn't like a lot of noise but Garmin manages to do ok with their devices all packed in tight.

this is not good logic for analyzing the arduino ecosystem

# ? Aug 28, 2019 03:30

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

ACR bought a company recently that makes these "man overboard" devices you give to the crew on your boat, and they report the GPS coordinates to a base station (typically your phone) and if they get too far away or loses contact with them, it sets off an alarm. The idea is that in the ocean with waves it's really hard to find people once they go overboard so this keeps track of their location once they go off the boat until it loses BT signal and gives you a very good idea of where they probably are (turning a sailboat around in 30mph winds and going to a precise location on short notice if a very hard problem)

They sell these devices for like $50-80 each

Also seems like a pretty straightforward device to build with an Arduino IDE. Collect GPS coordinates, send via Bluetooth, compare local coordinates to received coordinates, alarm if greater than X; also alarm if stop receiving coordinates for more than Y seconds, record last known coordinates and display direction to them.

Anyways I found a couple of devices, they are $20-40 but once you add a battery, waterproof it, and write the base station software and manufacture the rest of the stuff I come out way ahead just buying it off the shelf. I was hoping to find something in the $8 range.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 07:45

Splode: Jun 18, 2013; put some clothes on you little freak

GPS modules are pretty expensive even in volume

# ? Aug 28, 2019 08:53

One Legged Ninja: Sep 19, 2007; Feared by shoe salesmen. Defeated by chest-high walls.; Fun Shoe

Hadlock posted:

stuff

Could you just record the GPS coordinates of the base station at the moment of signal loss? That would bring your per unit cost down quite a bit. At 30mph you would probably be within a couple hundred feet of the actual location. Add a water activated strobe light if needed.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 14:39

Serjeant Buzfuz: Dec 5, 2009

GPS seems like a poor idea as rough weather would inhibit signal locks easily.

Being so safety critical, I would want a UHF/VHF transmitter that is activated by water. Then use a direction finding antenna to pinpoint the transmitter.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 15:21

wolrah: May 8, 2006; what?

Hadlock posted:

Anyways I found a couple of devices, they are $20-40 but once you add a battery, waterproof it, and write the base station software and manufacture the rest of the stuff I come out way ahead just buying it off the shelf. I was hoping to find something in the $8 range.

Just to start I'd recommend thinking long and hard about any ideas of DIYing hardware or software that is potentially life-critical or safety-critical, especially those that need to work in direct exposure to weather and waves. If you're interested in it more as a "can I do this" project then go nuts, but if you actually intend to use something like this in the real world make sure you're confident that they'll work or that you can deal with what happens if they don't.

With that out of the way, it sounds like you're looking at the OLAS system. From their descriptions it doesn't sound like the tracker modules themselves actually have GPS at all, the phone that's operating as the "base" just logs where it is at the time the connection to the tracker is lost. The trackers, as far as I can tell, are basically just dumb Bluetooth beacons and all the smarts are in the phone running the app or the dedicated base module if you have one. It's probably just doing a heartbeat. The base stations don't actually even seem to have GPS themselves, they still depend on a phone for that.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 15:30

mod sassinator: Dec 13, 2006; I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

Lou Takki posted:

GPS seems like a poor idea as rough weather would inhibit signal locks easily.

Being so safety critical, I would want a UHF/VHF transmitter that is activated by water. Then use a direction finding antenna to pinpoint the transmitter.

Yeah that's basically a satellite-based PLB: https://www.rei.com/product/161982/acr-electronics-resqlink-400-personal-locator-beacon Avalanche beacons are similar but don't call out to satellites for search and rescue (they just transmit radio and triangulate coordinates of other nearby beacons).

IMHO I would build something similar as a fun learning project, but I'd be hesitant to manufacture or sell one. For something that's safety critical or lives depend on you can open a whole wild can of liability if something goes wrong.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 18:54

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

No, that satellite based PLB sends a 406mhz distress call to space and then routes to the nearest national coast guard. It does not dial back to the boat. It's really useful if you hit a shipping container floating in the ocean or the boat falls apart and you won't make it to land on your own. Not useful in a MOB situation. It might have a strobe on it, but strobes are almost useless in situations where someone might actually fall off the boat.

One of my crew has an MOB1 device that will send a digital distress call + gos coordinates to the vhf radio on the boat and also generate an AIS (maritime location beacon) distress beacon that we also have a receiver for (and also all commercial vessels have) that wires into the chart plotter so that we have a live feed of their exact position

Yes it's better to not do DIY stuff but this OLAS stuff certainly isn't required equipment and everyone already has a harness and they're tethered to the boat at all times among other things so this is mostly a hobby project. We're very much into "extra" territory here, I'm not trying to crochet seatbelts for a race car, but I understand your concern.

Also the OLAS base station isn't designed to be permanently mounted, not designed to run off the house battery etc and can't perform a MOB NEMA0183 signal directly to my chart plotter. With a custom device I can wire it as a permanent part of the boat and navigation system.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 19:26

ante: Apr 9, 2005; SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS

Avvy beacons don't actually use RF either, they use magnetostriction, and it's awesome

# ? Aug 28, 2019 19:44

mod sassinator: Dec 13, 2006; I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass

ante posted:

Avvy beacons don't actually use RF either, they use magnetostriction, and it's awesome

Not any beacon I've ever used. They use a standard radio frequency, 457khz, so you can find your buddy even if he has a different brand/make/model transceiver.

Yes, PLBs broadcast to satellites. Rescuers use that signal to triangulate your location from helicopters and on the ground SAR. The satellite broadcast gets them to your grid coordinate, local triangulation gets them right on top of you. You could do the same from the boat (like your buddies device does), but then you have to ask do you really want to initiate a SAR operation for a man overboard. It's your call--I would hope going overboard isn't common and is treated like a real emergency. I wouldn't want to be debugging and futzing with an Arduino while someone is out there potentially drowning, or have to explain to their family that a messed up negative sign in your code sent the rescuers in the complete opposite direction.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 19:57

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

I actually had the opportunity to meet with the guy in charge of doing the technical integration between the various entities handing 406 distress calls, very cool guy

We already have a PLB, EPIRB, DSC and AIS along with self inflating buoys self activating strobes etc

DSC is great if you're near shore or inshore. If you're more than 1 hour flight from the nearest USCG helicopter base you're in good luck but we travel outside those areas and most times the boat that lost crew has a better chance of recovering crew alive in almost all cases

This would just be something on top of that. If it works, fantastic, if not, ok.

# ? Aug 28, 2019 21:44

edmund745: Jun 5, 2010

bawfuls posted:

edit: unrelated followup, what is a good robust way to make these connections to the Uno for the long term? Right now I have trimmed a few generic breadboard jumpers, stripped one end, and soldered that to other wires I can then connect to the gauge wires and the BMS serial wires. But these jumpers seem like they could pop out of the Uno easily, particularly once the car is in motion. Is there something more robust that would secure to the Uno with a clip of some kind?

One easy way to make more-solid connections as as follows: you solder male pin headers (either normal or right-angle) to the edge of another small piece of perf board, and then solder your wires that you need to connect to that. Having all the male pins fixed together makes the connection into the female headers much more solid, and this way you have a multi-wire plug that you can detach and re-attach easily (just make sure to plug it back in the correct direction...).

Also you can cut out the female headers on the Arduino (smash them with wire cutters), unsolder the pins individually and then put in some 2.54mm screw terminals. Also--mechanically test the tiny screw terminals before soldering anything, since you need to snap them all together before soldering them all in at once.

As to the high-pitched noise: capacitors and even plain wires can produce sound, under the wright (wrong) circumstances. Even if the noise they are being fed is far beyond the audible range, they can still ring at some lower resonant frequency that you can hear.

edmund745 fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Aug 30, 2019

# ? Aug 30, 2019 12:11

huhu: Feb 24, 2006

Does anyone use VSCode + Arduino? Every time I select "Arduino: Upload" it tries to upload the same sketch and won't let me select a different one. I see the arduino.json config specifies the sketch. I've got several different sketch directories in a directory and I'd prefer to not have to have a arduino.json per sketch directory. Is there a way around this?

# ? Sep 1, 2019 20:51

Ambrose Burnside: Aug 30, 2007; pensive

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

This is neat, and i approve of the concept. Are you going to need a fairly beefy microcontroller to pulsecount 2+10 LEDs?

I've got a spare ESP32 I was going to use and I'd be amazed if that isn't fast enough, although my main reason for reaching for that vs a nano or sth is more so that I can gently caress around with it via wifi and accordingly seal the board inside the magazine well, prioritizing watertightness and impact protection over ease of access from the get-go.
As long as the board isn't overtaxed it also leaves the option to adding extra features in the future with a minimum of fuss; something like a laser rangefinder in the muzzle brake component would be useful, gently caress it, add a bluetooth mp3 player functionality so I don't have to bring my phone into games to listen to music.

# ? Sep 3, 2019 02:05

Splode: Jun 18, 2013; put some clothes on you little freak

Watch your heat, the esp32 gets hot, and in a sealed enclosure that might cause trouble

# ? Sep 3, 2019 03:18

Ambrose Burnside: Aug 30, 2007; pensive

I had a mind towards designing the magazine to act as a heatsink for the microcrontroller, prolly using thermal tape to get a good contact between the magazine housing and as much of the board as I can, and milling some ribs into the outer mag faces, it'd get CNC machined from aluminum regardless so not a huge inconvenience.
not actually sure if that's sufficient to bleed off adequate heat in the middle of summer, but I was gonna give it a whirl before resorting to a computer fan + vents, hoping to avoid the additional battery loading forced ventilation entails.

# ? Sep 3, 2019 04:11

Splode: Jun 18, 2013; put some clothes on you little freak

That'll probably be fine. It doesn't get cpu hot it just gets hot enough that you can't get away with ignoring heat management completely

# ? Sep 3, 2019 08:39

Ambrose Burnside: Aug 30, 2007; pensive

It's a little more involved but I could use heat pipes running from the sealed electronics chamber to the magazine exterior, have my cake and eat it too irt improving heat management without increasing power draw
also: i realized they'd be a really cool + legitimately-functional visual feature if installed exposed on the surface of the mag as much as possible, prolly set flush with the surface in a milled slot and protected from damage/paint n grit crud by a polycarbonate sheet cap/cover cut to spec on the shop waterjet cutter

love planning a project like this when I've got a good spread of proper manufacturing equipment at my disposal on my lunch breaks, scope creep feels so reasonable :allears:

e: I also need to start thinking about how to shock-proof the electronics and generally ruggedize the design, this thing is gonna get banged up all to hell. Do something like float the whole microcontroller package inside the sealed compartment by sandwiching it on all sides with dense foam sheet or lengths of polyurethane spring tubing. using soft washers/gasketing of some sort with the LEDs n other discrete components seems smart too, but I don't know a ton about the basics of ruggedizing product designs so maybe there's an established best practice I don't know about.

Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Sep 3, 2019

# ? Sep 3, 2019 19:44

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# ? May 29, 2024 19:06

huhu: Feb 24, 2006

I've got the following basic code which I'm trying to get some SD Card info displayed on a screen.

code:

#include <Wire.h>
#include <Adafruit_SSD1306.h>
#include <SPI.h>
#include <SD.h>

#define SCREEN_WIDTH 128
#define SCREEN_HEIGHT 64
#define SCREEN_ADDRESS 0x3C
#define OLED_RESET -1
#define SD_CS = 10

// Sd2Card card;
// SdVolume volume;
// SdFile root;

Adafruit_SSD1306 display(SCREEN_WIDTH, SCREEN_HEIGHT, &Wire, OLED_RESET);

void setup()
{
    Serial.begin(9600);
    if (!display.begin(SSD1306_SWITCHCAPVCC, SCREEN_ADDRESS))
    {
        Serial.println(F("Unable to connect to screen."));
        while (true)
        {
        }
    }
    display.println("hi");
    display.display();
}

void loop()
{
}

If I upload the code as is, the output in Arduino is:

code:

Sketch uses 17010 bytes (55%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 1125 bytes (54%) of dynamic memory, leaving 923 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.

And "Unable to connect to screen." prints to Serial.

If I comment out #include <SD.h>, I can print to the screen.

My Google search led me to this URL: https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=439293.0 However shouldn't the Arduino be yelling about storage?

# ? Sep 8, 2019 19:43

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Arduino: Eh, just grab some pliers and bend the pins

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