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SketchUp, the downloaded program, is still free. It's just very annoying trying to figure out how to download it. Also, every previous version is free as well. And fusion 360 is way better.
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Aug 21, 2019 16:33
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I got a kreg circular saw rip fence, gonna test it out here in a minute on some plywood, gotta add some shelves to an old gun cabinet so it can be a normal cabinet
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Aug 21, 2019 16:41
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Anyone done wood countertops? What I've read so far from internet strangers: 1. Don't finish directly with mineral oil, because the oil will leech onto everything that touches the surface. 2. Use something like Rubio Monocoat to finish it, but understand that unless you're fastidious about minding moisture (and even if you are), you're going to get water spots anyway. 3. Birch/maple blocks are usually cheapest, but are also the hardest to get a uniform stain on. Anything else I'm missing? I'm really struggling to choose the correct finish and staining options
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Aug 21, 2019 17:26
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IRT cad stuff: can’t make a recommendation on the wood grain thing specifically, but that’s kind of a weird edge-use example for a mechanical CAD program, so i’d start w something deep and fully-featured as being likely to meet your needs i would skip out on sketchup if you’re picking a CAD suite to learn; it’s got a gentle learning curve and is free but is really quite threadbare alongside a fully-featured platform like Fusion360. Which is also essentially free for most end-users. solidworks is even better but most non-professionals won’t ever need its depth, and then it’s ludicrously expensive for non-students to make ~legitimate~ use of, and the learning curve is fairly steep.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:41
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Hypnolobster posted:SketchUp, the downloaded program, is still free. It's just very annoying trying to figure out how to download it. And even when you do download it it still pops up that your 30 day trial period has ended or whatever and to try the new version. The first time that happened I thought I was screwed but it ended up letting me use the program anyway.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:52
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canyoneer posted:Anyone done wood countertops? Resin coat it
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Aug 21, 2019 17:54
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JEEVES420 posted:Fusion is worlds above sketchup in CAD aspects and material testing, but for texture/skinning its pretty mediocre. I don't know how well it would work for things like figuring out grain patterns/direction. Ah, that's quite possible, I've never used either for that. I found sketchup slightly better for laying out a house because it's a bit more intuitive / quicker for right angles and extrusions, but I can imaging that 360 has many more features that I've not gotten to yet. I never really achieved mastery or even solid competence in either. I was also enamoured by sketchup using ruby as its scripting language since that's my day to day workhorse language, but I never actually needed to use it in the end.
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Aug 21, 2019 17:57
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canyoneer posted:Anyone done wood countertops? What is your end goal here? Do you plan on using the surface like a cutting board? If so I've had good luck with a mineral oil beeswax blend, the beeswax seems to seal the oil in, it's usually sold as salad bowl or butcher block finish. Otherwise I'd just use poly or something so then you wouldn't have to worry about water spots and maintenance. I wouldn't bother trying to stain a countertop, just fork over the cash a wood you like the colour of, maple/birch for lighter wood, walnut for a darker wood, etc.
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Aug 21, 2019 18:09
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Meow Meow Meow posted:What is your end goal here? Do you plan on using the surface like a cutting board? If so I've had good luck with a mineral oil beeswax blend, the beeswax seems to seal the oil in, it's usually sold as salad bowl or butcher block finish. Yeah, don't want to actually cut on it (i have cutting boards for that).
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Aug 21, 2019 18:15
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The obvious answer is to build up a model of a block that's made up of a bunch of differently colored linear bodies in fusion and then cut away from it to see an approximate simulation of wood
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Aug 21, 2019 18:16
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if you wanted a real-deal simulation of grain appearance in carvings/cutaways, that’s actually prolly the approximate way i’d do it aaaaaactually i’d extrude a block of material, find a script that creates flat planar meshes with an automatic slight warping/distortion applied, generate a dense stack of those meshes with like 0.01” spacing, place the block in the middle of the Grain Planes, and then use them to split the primitive into dozens of thin warped layers nestled together, and then alternate different shades of woodtone to suit the simulated wood. i bet that’d look drat good
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Aug 21, 2019 18:30
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I think I need more coffee to read the woodworking thread today
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Aug 21, 2019 18:54
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I think I need more coffee to read the woodworking thread today Reticulating pines
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Aug 21, 2019 19:00
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shovelbum posted:The obvious answer is to build up a model of a block that's made up of a bunch of differently colored linear bodies in fusion and then cut away from it to see an approximate simulation of wood I'm pretty sure you can get wood textures that are 3D textures with an actual grain to them, including end grain where you cut across the piece. How exactly that would work depends on the modeling program you're using, though.
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Aug 21, 2019 19:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:Reticulating pines 
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Aug 21, 2019 19:07
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Which of those programs is better for/capable of making drawings to be fed into a CNC router/laser cutter? I’m old fashioned but I know sometime in the next 30 years I’m going to have to get with the CNC program, so I may as well start learning now. I like drawing by hand, but any time I have to make changes it basically means starting over. I did a little bit of CAD stuff in VectorWorks in college but that was very simple ground plans etc. In very manual land, I made a neat jig for reeding turnings that’s my favorite kind of jig-free, easy, and effective. I’d seen Al Breed use something similar on his instagram. The way we did reeding/fluting at my old shop involved a custom router bit that was like a mini shaper squeeze collar and then a big jig to hold the router horizontal on the lathe bed. I don’t have all that poo poo, and needed to reed 2 posts so I spent an hour making this and it works incredibly super well. Basically just a box and a scratch stock the width of the box, with the tool centered over the center of the turning. Wedges keep the turning from moving around while working it.   I made the scratch stock out of an old jointer knife, and inlaid it into plywood with a steel strap to hold it in place and it’s rock solid.  It does chatter a bit on this roe grained mahogany, but those tool marks aren’t all bad when making reproduction kind of stuff. I think this way will actually mean less tedious hand sanding than the router method.
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Aug 21, 2019 19:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Which of those programs is better for/capable of making drawings to be fed into a CNC router/laser cutter? I’m old fashioned but I know sometime in the next 30 years I’m going to have to get with the CNC program, so I may as well start learning now. Fusion 360 without a doubt. Fusion has CAM stuff built in as well. I don't know how to stress this enough if your end goal is to really learn cnc stuff instead of just using a manufacturers lovely cad/cam solution.
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Aug 21, 2019 19:17
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I don't have a CNC router yet, because I have a bunch of work stuff the next few months, but I have been looking at CAM in Fusion to get ready for winter projects and it's very very usable even for someone who doesn't "know CAM".
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Aug 21, 2019 19:29
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canyoneer posted:Yeah, don't want to actually cut on it (i have cutting boards for that). Clear Varnish.
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Aug 21, 2019 19:31
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Laser cutters and CNC routers are different beasts irt programming. You want a proper CAD/CAM solution for the router- you’re making 2.5D toolpaths, you need to manage cutting forces and deflection and feed per tooth, there’s a lot going on and using a powerful CAM program is the single biggest aid you can have irt working more efficiently, breaking fewer tools and getting better-finished + more precise workpieces. Laser cutters are a magnitude less complex. Toolpaths are strictly 2D and it’s a contactless process. Working variables are largely reduced to pulse frequency, power and travel speed, and their quality control-relevant aspects are much simpler to factor for. They’re also used with a frequent focus on graphics/image reproduction vs manufacturing intricate 3d goods. Accordingly, a vector graphics program like Illustrator is often the final step for the user, and trying to use “proper” cam/cad stuff can actually be limiting because it’s not the anticipated workflow. a quality laser cutter like an Epilog has great controller software that’s tailored specifically for interfacing w graphics software and automating some of the odder laser-peculiar tasks like faking up 3D machining by ramping up/down the laser intensity to create pseudofillets at the edge of deep engravings instead of hard corners. I’ve never felt limited by working with the manufacturer’s software in this specific context
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Aug 21, 2019 19:55
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Which of those programs is better for/capable of making drawings to be fed into a CNC router/laser cutter? I’m old fashioned but I know sometime in the next 30 years I’m going to have to get with the CNC program, so I may as well start learning now. I like drawing by hand, but any time I have to make changes it basically means starting over. I did a little bit of CAD stuff in VectorWorks in college but that was very simple ground plans etc. This is really neat
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Aug 22, 2019 01:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Which of those programs is better for/capable of making drawings to be fed into a CNC router/laser cutter? I’m old fashioned but I know sometime in the next 30 years I’m going to have to get with the CNC program, so I may as well start learning now. I like drawing by hand, but any time I have to make changes it basically means starting over. I did a little bit of CAD stuff in VectorWorks in college but that was very simple ground plans etc. Nice, so simple and a great use of a scratch stock. How do you make sure your reeds are equally spaced?
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Aug 22, 2019 02:08
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Ambrose Burnside posted:solidworks is even better but most non-professionals won’t ever need its depth, and then it’s ludicrously expensive for non-students to make ~legitimate~ use of, and the learning curve is fairly steep. Solidworks does struggle with wood grain as default so ultimately you've gotta define direction and wrapping etc. I use it for freelance work as a professional designer and it's really good, but again - at 7000 odd Australian dollars for the base package it's prohibitive
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Aug 22, 2019 03:19
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm pretty sure you can get wood textures that are 3D textures with an actual grain to them, including end grain where you cut across the piece. How exactly that would work depends on the modeling program you're using, though. Fusion360 definitely has 3D wood textures for multiple species included in the materials library. You can adjust the alignment of the grain in 3D and get instant updates on the model, and individual parts of the model can be textured independently.
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Aug 22, 2019 08:16
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Spotted this really nice simple wardrobe in a stately home I visited (servants quarters naturally) any guesses at the wood and how one would make a door with a raised panel like this?  
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Aug 22, 2019 09:58
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cakesmith handyman posted:Spotted this really nice simple wardrobe in a stately home I visited (servants quarters naturally) any guesses at the wood and how one would make a door with a raised panel like this? I'm no expert, but I'd say build the outer frame (the four straight pieces) and glue in the panel after detailing it with a router.
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Aug 22, 2019 11:49
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Wood is sycamore. The panel actually looks sorta weird imo.
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Aug 22, 2019 11:57
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Hypnolobster posted:Wood is sycamore. The panel actually looks sorta weird imo. Really? I woulda thought white oak. I'm a total novice though.
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Aug 22, 2019 12:04
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Has anyone here ever made a box for a book? I'm thinking about getting dad a book I've really liked and was thinking a nice box would really perfect it
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Aug 22, 2019 12:06
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm no expert, but I'd say build the outer frame (the four straight pieces) and glue in the panel after detailing it with a router. But it's proud of the frame, does that mean it's very thick? Would the panel have a rabbet or the frame have a dado?
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Aug 22, 2019 12:25
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cakesmith handyman posted:But it's proud of the frame, does that mean it's very thick? Would the panel have a rabbet or the frame have a dado? I would think either the panel would have a rabbet or it's just glued around the edge onto the face of the frame where it overlaps.
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Aug 22, 2019 12:28
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Yes the construction looks like the panel was constructed, had a rabbet cut to hold the frame, then had the decorative edge routed in. After this, the frame was built around the raised panel.
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Aug 22, 2019 13:37
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cakesmith handyman posted:Spotted this really nice simple wardrobe in a stately home I visited (servants quarters naturally) any guesses at the wood and how one would make a door with a raised panel like this? I think it’s either QS sycamore or QS English oak, and I actually think it might be both mixed. The sides and posts especially look like sycamore (plane tree to you British) but the texture of the door frames look more like oak to me. That style panel is not uncommon in late 19thc/Edwardian English stuff, and even up through the 20s. It’s usually done by having a groove on the edges of the panel that mates with a groove on the inside of the frame. The panel is proud of the frame on the front and and the frame is usually proud of the panel on the back-the panel is probably just 3/4” thick, sometimes it is thicker and flush with the frame on the back. In any case, it’s free floating and not glued. I’ve seen the tops of trunks and chests done the same way and made the tops of boxes that way myself and it works well.
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Aug 22, 2019 13:49
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Thanks, that's exactly what I was after.
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Aug 22, 2019 14:00
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Tried out the Kreg rip guide thing on my circular saw, it did a pretty good job but I think it would be better on larger stock, I was only cutting 2' x 4' sheets down and it was cumbersome. Worked really well for the first 90% and then got a little wobbly but I can improve that with more clamps and better ergonomics for sure.
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Aug 22, 2019 17:07
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Hypnolobster posted:Wood is sycamore. The panel actually looks sorta weird imo. It does. Like it's glued or tacked on to the frame, (which would be totally weird) because there's no reveal that would typically indicate a floating panel construction you'd expect. Lovely quartersawn lumber, btw. I don't think I've ever seen it in sycamore, which raises my respect for that tree immensely. edit- Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think it’s either QS sycamore or QS English oak, and I actually think it might be both mixed. The sides and posts especially look like sycamore (plane tree to you British) but the texture of the door frames look more like oak to me. Ah so....
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Aug 22, 2019 17:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:Ah so.... The master brings truth to the thread.
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Aug 22, 2019 17:25
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I'm trying to choose a dust collector for a new Makerspace I'm helping build. The woodshop is 20ish by 38ish, and I'd imagine the longest run will be 35' down the back wall (we could possibly bring things close, we don't have the full layout planned yet), with a cnc router and tablesaw pretty close to the dust collector. We were looking at the cyclone options from jet / laguna, but are open to other brands. What HP / CFM would we probably want to get, assuming 2 or 3 machines max would be used at once. We've made due with a harbor freight on the cnc and a 110v jet dust collector getting dragged about at the other space, but I want to improve dust collection dramatically with this new building.
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Aug 22, 2019 17:30
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moron izzard posted:I'm trying to choose a dust collector for a new Makerspace I'm helping build. The woodshop is 20ish by 38ish, and I'd imagine the longest run will be 35' down the back wall (we could possibly bring things close, we don't have the full layout planned yet), with a cnc router and tablesaw pretty close to the dust collector. We were looking at the cyclone options from jet / laguna, but are open to other brands. What HP / CFM would we probably want to get, assuming 2 or 3 machines max would be used at once. We've made due with a harbor freight on the cnc and a 110v jet dust collector getting dragged about at the other space, but I want to improve dust collection dramatically with this new building. I would think for a clean sheet design for a shared space you would want to lay it out to where basically every single machine can ergonomically be used at once and size the dust collection to match. Makerspaces are really tough to make usable and successful to begin with and if you undersize everything and sort of have designed-in frustration from the get-go it won't be nearly as cool.
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Aug 22, 2019 18:40
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moron izzard posted:I'm trying to choose a dust collector for a new Makerspace I'm helping build. The woodshop is 20ish by 38ish, and I'd imagine the longest run will be 35' down the back wall (we could possibly bring things close, we don't have the full layout planned yet), with a cnc router and tablesaw pretty close to the dust collector. We were looking at the cyclone options from jet / laguna, but are open to other brands. What HP / CFM would we probably want to get, assuming 2 or 3 machines max would be used at once. We've made due with a harbor freight on the cnc and a 110v jet dust collector getting dragged about at the other space, but I want to improve dust collection dramatically with this new building. Mr. Mambold posted:It does. Like it's glued or tacked on to the frame, (which would be totally weird) because there's no reveal that would typically indicate a floating panel construction you'd expect. Lovely quartersawn lumber, btw. I don't think I've ever seen it in sycamore, which raises my respect for that tree immensely.  And a mock-up made of mock-ups of how the groove/panel work 
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Aug 22, 2019 19:55
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