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As already mentioned those batteries are way too small. A 650mAh would be used for something like a 3" build. I would recommend the Acehe 1500mAh 4S batteries if you can get hold of them. I have some which have had multiple cycles on every week for over a year and are only now starting to show their age.
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Sep 4, 2019 09:30
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Stringent posted:That looks way too tight to have fun but props for flying, you should come over here I've got a spot that's way more open. I'm out of town for a bit, but yeah would be good to meet up some time. I don't know if something is slowing down my tinyhawk s, my 1s batteries are crap, or it is just the perceptions based on the flight environment. Did a bit of indoor 2s and it feels closer to the 1s outdoor clip I posted earlier. Tried some dives with the HX100, it started yawing pretty hard. Is this just an example of "get gud"? Some clips of my bad flying indoor/outdoor. Kinda the antithesis of where I did my first HX100 flight. Need to explore a bit for an area with more obstacles. https://youtu.be/TiIJMzxU8tE
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Sep 5, 2019 01:15
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Bad luck with wheels here. Last year, my XK DHC-2 lost a wheel in flight, this year my Aero Commander lost the nose wheel on landing.
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Sep 5, 2019 01:22
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Hey, when am I going to stop leaning and tilting my body for no reason when flying FPV? I feel ridiculous when I take off the goggles and I'm facing a completely different direction than when I started the pack. Although clearly I need to turn my body a little more sometimes 
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Sep 5, 2019 22:29
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Corky Romanovsky posted:I'm currently enjoying a less than 200g exemption that allows me to fly even in the approach path of an international airport and solo FPV operation. Could go all Smokey Yunick, too, as 200g is the weight in minimum flight configuration. Camera, VTX, prop guards, additional flight safety items are not counted against this limit. What country? In the US, under 250 only exempts you from registration when flying under hobby rules. Your still bound by those rules. I don't remember seeing anything in Canada's regulations exempting parts either.
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Sep 5, 2019 23:04
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Is this still the only real drone thread? I had to submit twice but finally got airspace auth to fly in 0, 50, 100 grids near my airport for a project. After the years of hassle working with the FAA was actually pretty simple, they actually called me to discuss the project and work to get an approval vice the old 333 days of "Submit and we'll tell you why you're denied".
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Sep 7, 2019 18:40
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Is the suggested starting for drone still the tiny hawk rtf? Starting to think about getting in to this hobby and wanted some sub $250 suggestions if there are other good options.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:24
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I can't recommend it enough. I've got the original, the 2s and the freestyle and they're all amazingly fun.
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Sep 12, 2019 18:28
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fpv.blue just pulled the plug and is issuing refunds to anyone who pre-ordered. Not surprising considering the DJI digital system just came out and is getting huge adoption. Oh well.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:29
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My first Tinyhawk had an apparent thermal issue - VTX quality degraded continuously and was unusable after about 15 seconds powered-on. Exchanged it and the new one works great. Wow, this is hard. I was getting pretty decent in the sim but the real deal is another matter. Super fun though. I realized pretty quickly that I need to disable the throttle "ratchet" in my Taranis X7S; it feels neat, but it makes it impossible to hold a consistent hover vertically, I'm always climbing or descending. Hopefully making that change'll help. I also ordered a Tinyhawk Freestyle for more outdoor hijinks directly from Emax earlier this week but they haven't shipped it yet. I think they might still be backordered. I emailed them to check on it and haven't heard back. Anybody flown the Babyhawk 2" or 3"? Depending on how long the wait is on the Freestyle, I'm tempted to get one of those instead since they're available everywhere.
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Sep 12, 2019 21:29
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I love the look of the Tinyhawk Freestyle, it looks just like my 5"! I'm considering the Happymodel Larva X though just because it has the 200mW VTX that can record to SD and a Runcam Nano. It just doesn't look as cool though so I've looked at banggood like 10x today trying to decide if I'll get one of either of them. The Larva is just $83.29 with a coupon but doesn't come with any batteries. If it looked as nice as the Freestyle it would be a no-brainer. I think the frame on the Freestyle will hold up better over time too.
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Sep 12, 2019 22:48
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RacerX TWIG frame looks good, if you paint it.
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Sep 12, 2019 22:55
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Rincey posted:My first Tinyhawk had an apparent thermal issue - VTX quality degraded continuously and was unusable after about 15 seconds powered-on. Exchanged it and the new one works great. Wow, this is hard. I was getting pretty decent in the sim but the real deal is another matter. Super fun though. Babyhawk R 2" is a hoot and a half. I threw some gemfan tri-blades on mine and it's pretty smooth flying.
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Sep 13, 2019 00:28
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I’ve had my TH and assorted TH related stuff just sitting around for a month now. It’s just too drat hot to fly right now. I need to find a gymnasium or something to learn inside until it cools off.
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Sep 13, 2019 00:41
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The babyhawk r 2" is a really fantastic machine in my opinion. I bought one right when they were released, then later bought a set of 3 inch arms and installed them. In both configurations that thing was tough as nails and flew like a much bigger quad. I eventually crashed it in a field with scattered puddles and couldn't find it again. I tried to replace it by building a massive droner but man it just never flew the same.
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Sep 13, 2019 16:12
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What is the consensus on the Emax Buzz? I've been circling around getting something more acrobatic than my Mavic 2, and this looks interesting. I have the DJI RE goggles, will these work with the Buzz? It looks like it comes with a transceiver; 3 options 4s FRSKY, 5-6s PNP, or 5-6s FRSKY. What's the difference, they all seem priced the same? Stupid question, BNF is Build "N" Fly, RTF is Ready to Fly?
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Sep 13, 2019 16:55
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porktree posted:What is the consensus on the Emax Buzz? I've been circling around getting something more acrobatic than my Mavic 2, and this looks interesting. I have the DJI RE goggles, will these work with the Buzz? Not sure how the Buzz is but BNF is bind n fly....bind it to your Taranis and go. PNP does not come with a receiver, it is plug (in a compatible receiver) n play. They will work with your DJI Goggles analog receiver.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:03
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porktree posted:What is the consensus on the Emax Buzz? I've been circling around getting something more acrobatic than my Mavic 2, and this looks interesting. I have the DJI RE goggles, will these work with the Buzz? RTF is ready to fly, yes. BNF is bind and fly. So, the receiver for whatever type of radio is already installed. Typically all you would need to do is attach a battery, bind your transmitter and go.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:04
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i own every Bionicle posted:Not sure how the Buzz is but BNF is bind n fly....bind it to your Taranis and go. PNP does not come with a receiver, it is plug (in a compatible receiver) n play. So the 3 different options mean I need to pick a transceiver that matches, not that it comes with a transceiver. But I don't need goggles. bullets cure cops posted:RTF is ready to fly, yes. BNF is bind and fly. So, the receiver for whatever type of radio is already installed. Typically all you would need to do is attach a battery, bind your transmitter and go. Ha, that makes more sense. Thanks guys.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:44
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I am out of my goddamn mind.
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Sep 13, 2019 21:13
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What material is that? Not the foam, the structural part. But yes, ya done lost yer mind
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Sep 13, 2019 22:45
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It's the cheapest G-10 I could find on Amazon that A) was the right thickness and size and B) wouldn't take three months to reach me.
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Sep 13, 2019 23:38
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bullets cure cops posted:The babyhawk r 2" is a really fantastic machine in my opinion. I bought one right when they were released, then later bought a set of 3 inch arms and installed them. In both configurations that thing was tough as nails and flew like a much bigger quad. I eventually crashed it in a field with scattered puddles and couldn't find it again. I tried to replace it by building a massive droner but man it just never flew the same. Glad to hear it. I have a Babyhawk R 3" waiting for me at home 
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Sep 14, 2019 01:18
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porktree posted:What is the consensus on the Emax Buzz? I've been circling around getting something more acrobatic than my Mavic 2, and this looks interesting. I have the DJI RE goggles, will these work with the Buzz? The 4S version comes with 2400kv motors, which spin at the intended RPM at 4S voltage. The 6S uses 1700kv motors, which will still work on 4S, but will be a bit lethargic. Everything else on the quad is the same. The FrSky version comes with an XM+ receiver preinstalled (without the RSSI firmware flashed to it, boo) and the PnP version expects you to provide your own. 4S 1500mAh and 6S 1050mAh batteries cost about the same these days, so the version you choose probably comes down to what you think you'll need more of if you end up sharing batteries with other models in the future. I'm currently messing with a Buzz I got used for cheap. It's nice, but it's not $300 nice. It doesn't feel like it's in another league from my budget Frog Lite build that I've had for a little over a year. I'm also not a skilled pilot who pushes my quads to destruction in an effort to get better, so how would I know? Still, there are a handful of good performing, well thought out 5" freestyle quads at the $200 price point that should provide the same level of performance and build quality as the Buzz. If I have anything against EMAX, it's that their parts availability seems to be really selective. Motors and frame parts are pretty easy to find stateside (if a bit expensive), but to this day, I have no idea what I would do if I ever needed a new set of electronics for a Babyhawk R Pro or a battery pack for their TinyHawk RtF goggles, as those don't appear to be available anywhere. Banggood is having a sale, but most of the good deals seem to have passed. For a couple days, the iFlight Nazgul5 was selling for $143, but it's back up to $196. At that price, it's still worth considering. You may also want to check out the SkyStars Star Lord 228, which is also around $200. BnF is "Bind and Fly", which means the model comes with a receiver preinstalled (or at least it should) and all you have to do it bind it to get it going. RtF is "Ready to Fly", which means it comes with a (usually cheap toy grade) transmitter. I have seen at least one model botch the definition and call a BnF an RtF, but I think it was some big fixed wing or helicopter that would have never come with a transmitter anyway. I've also heard PnP / PnF for when you need to provide your own receiver (like one of the buying options for the EMAX Buzz), and possibly heard that used interchangeably with BnF. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Sep 14, 2019 |
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Sep 14, 2019 02:37
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Alternative pants posted:I can't recommend it enough. I've got the original, the 2s and the freestyle and they're all amazingly fun. I'm wondering what the long term Tinyhawk ownership experience is like. I picked up a couple of Tinyhawk RtF kits being sold for parts with the intent of fixing what I could and parting the rest out. Both of the quads that came with them had the same widespread problem where the motors wouldn't spin consistently due to insufficient 1.0mm connectors that weren't able to provide the startup power necessary to get them going (as seen earlier in this thread, of all places). Tinkering with these has made me really appreciate my Mobula7 a bit more. Everything from the above motor problems, the amount of force/finesse/luck it takes to remove a prop without destroying anything, the way the power lead goes through the battery mount instead of around it, and the way the camera is mounted (and not at all protected) which guarantees that it comes loose over time all seem like instances of rear end in a top hat design that don't contribute to its performance in any way. I'll be the contrarian and suggest also looking at the Mobula7 or Trashcan if you're thinking about getting a brushless whoop. Sure, it's a crude conglomeration of existing parts, but repairs are easy, and unlike EMAX, parts are cheap and plentiful (if you don't mind waiting 2-4 weeks to get them from China). With the Trashcan/Mobula7 V3 frame, it's stupid durable too. I bought two frames several months ago and still haven't had to replace the first one yet despite crashing hard enough to break a motor shaft and several props in that time period.
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Sep 14, 2019 03:38
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Zorilla posted:I'm wondering what the long term Tinyhawk ownership experience is like. I picked up a couple of Tinyhawk RtF kits being sold for parts with the intent of fixing what I could and parting the rest out. Both of the quads that came with them had the same widespread problem where the motors wouldn't spin consistently due to insufficient 1.0mm connectors that weren't able to provide the startup power necessary to get them going (as seen earlier in this thread, of all places). The original tinyhawk still gets lots of use indoors, as my S model has been modded with an xt-30 plug so no more 1s fun. The S is easily the fastest of the 3 and is pretty great for whoop sized racing (after tweaking the tune, it’s not bad but it’s a little lethargic after you get used to 2s speed). And the freestyle is basically perfect for smaller outdoor spaces, although I’m waiting until i have time to swap out the vtx for a TBS unify nano. I’ve only had the freestyle for a week, but I’ve had the original and S models for a few months and I take them most places because if there’s a parking lot I’m almost always able to fly a few packs. They’re not “blow your mind” awesome, but they’re a lot of fun and pretty durable. Exactly what a whoop sized quad should be.
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Sep 14, 2019 04:20
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I want to build a smallish drone to test the hobby waters. Not going for FPV or racing just yet, just zipping around with a camera attached and maybe messing with some programming. If I enjoy it, I'll probably move on to building a few larger drones for photography and messing around with various payloads. If not, most of the parts I buy will find uses in other projects I'm using, so I'd really only be out the frame and flight controller, which are currently on sale (or are the deals too good to be true?  )I'm also going to buy one of these to practice with because it's $2, why not? Maybe I'll buy 5 and crash them all, so what. Here's my core list so far: Hobbyking™ S250 FPV Racing Drone Composite Kit 210mm Turnigy D2206-2300KV 31g Brushless Motor CW x2 (plus corresponding CCW motors) Turnigy MultiStar 30A BLHeli-S Rev16 V3 ESC 2~4S (Opto) x 4 KISS F3 32bit Flight Controller V1.03 (maybe to later be replaced with something more hackable) FrSky R-XSR Ultra Mini Redundancy Receiver (US) (transmitter will be a Taranis QX 7) 5 x 3.2 Self Tightening Propeller for Multi-Rotor CW & CCW Rotation x a boatload Power would be from a 1500mAh 3S 25C. Did I spec this right? Anything obviously wrong or unsuitable for a first-timer? I was trying to generally follow the spirit of this but adapting to current parts availability and discounts from HobbyKing.
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Sep 18, 2019 23:46
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Discussion Quorum posted:I want to build a smallish drone to test the hobby waters. Not going for FPV or racing just yet, just zipping around with a camera attached and maybe messing with some programming. If I enjoy it, I'll probably move on to building a few larger drones for photography and messing around with various payloads. If not, most of the parts I buy will find uses in other projects I'm using, so I'd really only be out the frame and flight controller, which are currently on sale (or are the deals too good to be true? Do you have any experience with RC stuff? Do you have a transmitter already? Try simulators first. Maybe get a prebuilt second. Probably never build your own for photography because the commercial photo/video stuff is about the same price as doing it yourself, minus the days and weeks or months of messing with software/hardware. When you say "not FPV" but with a camera attached, do you mean flying line of sight?
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Sep 19, 2019 00:08
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That frame is very odd, i would use something more standard like this: https://www.banggood.com/Anniversar...ur_warehouse=UK I would definitely not use a KISS flight controller for a first build. There is so much more support available for Betaflight F4 flight controllers such as: https://www.banggood.com/Omnibus-F4...ml?rmmds=search I've never seen those props before, use something around a 5040 from Dalprop or HQProp instead. https://www.banggood.com/2-Pair-DAL...ur_warehouse=UK I started writing up a more detailed list but instead i think you should just follow along with a build like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFNGUDT_9_c TBH HobbyKing aren't really relevant to the drone hobby anymore, their kit is pretty out-of-date. Easier just to buy stuff from banggood and wait a week or two for delivery.
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Sep 19, 2019 11:00
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yeah stay away from Hobbyking, they sell so much old junk, like that frame you listed. That thing is hilariously out of date when it was first designed, never mind in 2019. with the power and speed these things are capable of now, a spindly thing like that wouldn't last past a test hover. It's impossible to know this if you're starting out, the website is huge, shows up first in every search listing. What you want is a standard X shaped, sorta boring but functional one like Slash listed. It's a clone of a very popular design called an ImpulseRC Alien. All the electronic components will fit and spare arms can be bought and installed relatively easily. As for your motors, they're backordered and out of stock, this is about as bargain basement as I'd go: Racestar is.... a brand, that's about it. https://www.banggood.com/5-PCS-Race...ur_warehouse=CN DYS is a little more well known, this is their bottom of the line offering. I know a guy who flies these exclusively because he breaks motors so much and loves them. The bearings will get crappy pretty quick and not sound as nice as they did brand new but that's the compromise, they still fly fine. https://www.banggood.com/DYS-Samguk...r_warehouse=USA And ESC's which run the motors - I've literally never seen anybody fly, review, recommend, a Turnigy Multistar ESC. I have to imagine that's for a reason, not because they're some sort of hidden gem. For bargain ESCs I have had a lot of luck with the Spedix brand. Here's a 4 pack of 32 bit ESCs. Blheli_32 and BLheli_S both support the DShot protocol, which allows you to send digital signals to the ESC instead of analog, and do neat things like on the fly motor reversing without needing to program the ESC. So if you crash upside down, you can flip a switch on your controller and the motors will now push it onto it's belly, then you can switch back and keep going. Useful for crashing on rooftops. BLHeli_32 allows all that plus it can send data back to the flight controller so you can have your motor RPM, ESC temperature, and whatever else it can do displayed in your goggles if you need that sort of data. BLHeli_32 (4 pack) https://www.banggood.com/4X-Spedix-...ur_warehouse=CN BLHeli_s (single unit) https://www.banggood.com/SPEDIX-ES30-HV-30A-3-6S-Blheli_S-FPV-Racing-Brushless-ESC-for-RC-Drone-p-1319696.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN 4 packs are sort of a pain because you save a bit of money but a general rule in this hobby is if you need 4, buy 5. Either through lovely QC, or your own inexperience, you can wreck something then you're waiting another few weeks for one stupid component. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Sep 19, 2019 |
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Sep 19, 2019 12:31
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I picked up a tiny whoop and I've been having fun annoying my wife indoors and losing lots of props by crashing repeatedly outdoors. I feel like the range on this thing is pretty weak though--I've gone into Betaflight and set the vtx power to '3' (out of 1-5) and still I lose (at least) my video feed pretty quickly when I try to do a loop around the outside of my house. How do I go about determining if the problem is a weak vtx or my googles/antenna or bad antenna or whatever. For all I know I may be losing RC control too--it's hard to say since a crash is pretty much guaranteed when my video feed drops out. Hell, a crash is pretty much guaranteed when I take off but at least I can use the camera to help locate where the whoop is at when it crashes in the backyard. Obviously I'm very new to the hobby in general. My gear is: - eachine Trashcan - eachine ev800d googles w/ stock antennas - Jumper T16 Unrelated, I can't figure out how to get the DVR on my ev800d to work. I assume a long press of the record button would start the recording and there would be some on-screen indicator that it is in fact recording but I see neither of those things. Thanks for your help, Goons!
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Sep 19, 2019 13:36
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depending on how betaflight deals with vtx channels, 3 might not mean anything since your VTX only does 25mw and 200mw. Setting it to "3" won't make it a range in between 25 and 200, it might just leave it at 25. I just use my OSD though, I've never set the VTX through betaflight and I know they added a bunch of crap to customize your frequency ranges lately. As for going around your house and through a layer or two of brick, your goggles already come with an omni and a patch antenna, and if its really 16db it should be fine to receive through that (flyable, but it wont look pretty). I think your bottleneck is the lovely stock antenna https://www.eachine.com/Eachine-TRA...ble-p-1328.html Does your antenna look like this? Just the shielded cable with a bit of unshielded core exposed? because that's fuckin awful and eachine should know better, this is probably your issue. If you look at the VTX, does this antenna have a connector, or is it soldered on? If this is your antenna, I'd look into replacing that, and then seeing what you can do with your VTX set to 1 (25mw) and a better whoop antenna. After that look into upping the output power. tiny boi: https://www.banggood.com/Lumenier-M..._warehouse=GWTR this is the BARE WIRE version for direct soldering, looks like they make a uFL version too but cant find it listed on BG. "micro axii" is the name of it though bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Sep 19, 2019 |
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Sep 19, 2019 13:57
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Bolange posted:I picked up a tiny whoop and I've been having fun annoying my wife indoors and losing lots of props by crashing repeatedly outdoors. I feel like the range on this thing is pretty weak though--I've gone into Betaflight and set the vtx power to '3' (out of 1-5) and still I lose (at least) my video feed pretty quickly when I try to do a loop around the outside of my house. How do I go about determining if the problem is a weak vtx or my googles/antenna or bad antenna or whatever. For all I know I may be losing RC control too--it's hard to say since a crash is pretty much guaranteed when my video feed drops out. Hell, a crash is pretty much guaranteed when I take off but at least I can use the camera to help locate where the whoop is at when it crashes in the backyard. I have the same goggles, transmitter, and a tinyhawk s. Range seemed a little poor at first. Don't think I ever lost control, though. A pine tree at about 50 yards killed the video (maybe I didn't have the patch pointed at it). A couple of posts back I have a vid from a smaller outdoor space with some vegetation, if you want to compare. I might be getting better range after having pulled the antennas out through the hole behind the camera (might need to do something to keep it out of the props). Stock settings for RSSI and current draw seem way off. The DVR seems to require the SD card be formatted correctly, card name must be 4 characters or less. A class 4 card seemed to drop frames, but a class 10 card may be overkill. Max supported may be 32GB. DVR is long press, you get a red record light on the screen. Still frame is short press.
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Sep 19, 2019 13:57
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The small stuff all uses linear antennas so it's horrible at rejecting reflections, and 6ghz is just terrible for penetration so going behind shrubs it gets snowy fast.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:08
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Thanks for the feedback, that's exactly the sort of info I was looking for. To answer the questions I was asked: No prior RC experience. Didn't realize the simulators were that good - will definitely give that a try. Don't have a transmitter yet, however I've been getting more into DIY electronics lately and am interested in making stuff that moves. I am leaning towards using an off the shelf RC system rather than trying to homebrew a controller using an NRF. Likewise I was going to get some LiPo batteries and a charger regardless. Probably at least one motor/ESC pair to experiment with as well. Yes, my thought was to start by flying line of sight with a cheapo action cam just along for the ride.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:25
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Buy the radio first (frsky taranis lite, jumper t16, or something else you have in mind), and spend a couple dozen hours in the sim before you buy flight hardware imo. If you figure out you don't like it, you're only out the velocidrone license.
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Sep 19, 2019 14:33
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bring back old gbs posted:Does your antenna look like this? Just the shielded cable with a bit of unshielded core exposed? because that's fuckin awful and eachine should know better, this is probably your issue. If you look at the VTX, does this antenna have a connector, or is it soldered on? If this is your antenna, I'd look into replacing that, and then seeing what you can do with your VTX set to 1 (25mw) and a better whoop antenna. After that look into upping the output power. That does look like my antenna. The antenna connector is a small cup that just pushes down on a similar sized socked on the vtx. I feel a tiny click/detent/whatever when I push it on but have 0 confidence that it's firmly connected after a few crashes. Think of very tiny coaxiall cable but without any threads or anything, just a friction fit (as seen on this page https://www.banggood.com/65mm-2dBi-IPEX-IPX-FPV-Omni-Directional-Linear-Brass-Antenna-RG178-p-1185915.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN ). I planned to open the quad up again and use some kapton tape to help ensure it stays attached but I'm not opposed to throwing a different antenna on there if this one is garbage but I don't know the correct way to solder a socket like this--do I just "snap" it onto the vtx and just put a dab of solder on the fitting? I'd have no issues soldering if it were just pads/tabs that I needed to attach bare leads too... It looks like you're recommending this guy? https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-mic...uIaAtGVEALw_wcB My primary use case for this quad is 2s batteries and outdoors so any improvements to that end are something I'd be down for. Thanks so much for your help!
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Sep 19, 2019 14:48
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Bolange posted:That does look like my antenna. The antenna connector is a small cup that just pushes down on a similar sized socked on the vtx. I feel a tiny click/detent/whatever when I push it on but have 0 confidence that it's firmly connected after a few crashes. Think of very tiny coaxiall cable but without any threads or anything, just a friction fit (as seen on this page https://www.banggood.com/65mm-2dBi-IPEX-IPX-FPV-Omni-Directional-Linear-Brass-Antenna-RG178-p-1185915.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN ). I planned to open the quad up again and use some kapton tape to help ensure it stays attached but I'm not opposed to throwing a different antenna on there if this one is garbage but I don't know the correct way to solder a socket like this--do I just "snap" it onto the vtx and just put a dab of solder on the fitting? I'd have no issues soldering if it were just pads/tabs that I needed to attach bare leads too... It looks like you're recommending this guy? https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-mic...uIaAtGVEALw_wcB good news, that's called a uFL connector, and they make those mico Axii's I mentioned in that format. So you can just pop your old one off, and put the new one on. Just bear in mind it's a TINY connector designed for internal laptop wifi antennas, etc. It's not designed to be constantly popped on and off, usually only a few times during it's lifespan. Like a particularly bad crash. You can "fix" them by just squeezing the metal housing between your fingers to make it a better fit again. I have a friend who swears by connecting his uFLs to VTX's with a dab of solder, but the plastic in those connectors melts so drat fast you run the risk of just screwing the entire thing up. I tried it once with a 50/50 success rate and never bothered trying it again. A ziptie is how I do it now, kapton tape would probably be fine too. https://www.getfpv.com/lumenier-mic...uIaAtGVEALw_wcB https://www.amazon.com/Foxeer-Lolli...960&sr=8-9&th=1 Either of these would be fine options. I have a preference for the Axii but I've never used this micro version. The Foxeer comes with two for the same price though. And its red. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Sep 19, 2019 |
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Sep 19, 2019 15:41
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Hard to pass up a buy-one-get-one package. Plus red ones are faster anyway and Amazon will deliver it for free tomorrow. Thanks for the advice!
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Sep 19, 2019 17:38
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If I could only share one link with people getting started it would be https://oscarliang.com/
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Sep 19, 2019 17:55
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