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DesperateDan posted:When you put the key in the ready to crank position do you hear the fuel pump priming? I don't hear it priming, but I'll try that here shortly with someone else turning the key. Edit: I don't hear anything StormDrain posted:Did the truck eventually start or is it stranded? AAA towed it home. That's a really interesting point about the fuel, it's just weird that it ran for so long after putting that fuel in before it stopped working. two_beer_bishes fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Oct 13, 2019 |
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Oct 13, 2019 15:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:So I'm bored and reading about the car I am taking delivery of a brand new car in January. I've decided that I probably want to be the annoying owner that insists on burning cash on having the DCT fluid serviced despite it being ~lifetime fluid~. I'm also considering doing shorter interval oil changes as the official service interval is 9300 miles / once a year. Or at least doing an oil change after at the break in period. After reading online, people say that the break in period leaves bits of metal particles and it's good or at least doesn't hurt to do an oil change after the first 1000 miles or so. I don't know the answers but has there ever actually been a true lifetime fluid?
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Oct 13, 2019 21:13
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Charles posted:I don't know the answers but has there ever actually been a true lifetime fluid? Every fluid is lifetime. You are 100% guaranteed that the fluid will cause the end of the part if you don't change it. Remember what lifetime means to a manufacturer: it's their warranty.
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Oct 13, 2019 22:12
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Yeah, read it like every other lifetime warranty. "Limited lifetime warranty."
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Oct 14, 2019 00:47
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C-Bangin' it 
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Charles posted:I don't know the answers but has there ever actually been a true lifetime fluid? Certain synthetic gear oils have been the closest I've seen. They seem to be lifetime in the sense that whatever gearbox they're in is not the weakest point of the machine, and something else will fail badly enough to justify replacing it before the gearbox does.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:03
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I don't know anything about cars but a little plastic thing fell off the underside of my 2006 Scion xA. I googled the part number (75866-52020) and it's quote:Positions: Left Is this important enough to replace?
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Oct 14, 2019 01:22
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I found a mouse in my engine this morning lol I only thought to look because my blower fan started working when I turned the key, which it hasn't the whole time I've owned the van Also the engine is pissing coolant so I might be asking you guys about that soon if it doesn't get better.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:27
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simplefish posted:
We might not know all the answers...but I can probably say with 100% certainty it ain't going to get better. Catch it now before it shits the bed and fucks you over with much bigger problems.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:33
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Colostomy Bag posted:We might not know all the answers...but I can probably say with 100% certainty it ain't going to get better. This is something you should be asking about now while it's still what could be a small problem.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:44
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The only thing more expensive than routine maintenance is not doing it.
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Oct 14, 2019 11:52
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My sister bought a 2016 Rav4 LE from Toyota Carlsbad and at the last minute they popped an $800 fee for installing KARR since they said the Rav4 doesn't have an alarm. I told her via text to cut and run at the original agreed price without the alarm but now I'm wondering if they already installed the system and just deactivated. These guys were doing mobster-like strong arm poo poo on her (you can't leave or it'll cost a fee, you won't get your alarm if you leave, etc), it was crazy. If it's Certified Pre Owned with coverage for electrical for 1 year, does that mean the KARR alarm is included? I'm concerned they hacked wires to install that poo poo. Can she go to another dealership to get it checked out or even removed under warranty and the original wiring put back in place? Did the dealership gently caress up the warranty if they installed it? Also, I already told her about the VIP security system and found a place that will activate it for a little less than what Toyota has listed. I'm mostly concerned about what these assholes did behind the scenes.
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Oct 15, 2019 08:58
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2007 Subaru Forester, 4cyl non-turbo, ~85k miles. So a few weeks ago the alternator went out and killed the battery dead. Got the alternator replaced, and while in the shop the mechanic cleaned off the battery terminals and let the battery charge for a few hours. After that, it mostly ran fine. Only other thing I can think of is that yesterday it turned over a bit slow in the morning, but in the afternoon it turned over normally. But today, it won't start. Get rapid fire clicking when trying to turn it over. Tried to jump it with another car, no dice, even after revving the donor car's engine to 2500 for 2-3 minutes. Thinking maybe bad connection, I removed and reconnected the cables and still no-go. Then I tried a jump box and that didn't do it either (but the jump box isn't fully charged so not really sure here). The age of the battery is unknown, but minimum 6 years old, probably several years older. But right now at least, all the electronics seem to run just fine... radio, lights, etc. So it's got enough charge to run accessories, but not enough to start the car it seems. So at this point it's not 100% clear to me that this is simply a bad battery. Strongly suggestive of it, but I worry that there's something I'm missing. Plan on getting one tonight after work and swapping it tonight anyhow, but we need both our cars so I'm trying to make sure I have a back-up plan in case the battery doesn't do it... or else I'll have to get it towed to a shop tomorrow morning, because I just don't have the time to spend a few hours swearing at the starter. Is there anything else I should check if the new battery is a no-go?
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Oct 15, 2019 14:50
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The battery should have been replaced along with the alternator regardless of age. Deeply discharging an automotive battery kills it.
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Oct 15, 2019 14:53
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Motronic posted:The battery should have been replaced along with the alternator regardless of age. Deeply discharging an automotive battery kills it. Yeah that's my leading theory, but given that it's worked so far I figured we were good to go... no idea how long it takes for a battery to fully die after being discharged like this. Frankly I'm surprised the mechanic didn't suggest replacing the battery, but I decided not to press the issue since we're selling the car in the next month or two... already had to shell out $370 for the alternator, wasn't interested in dumping any more in to the car.
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Oct 15, 2019 15:04
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A few of us every other page of posts or so will say "it's the battery." Because...drum roll...it usually is.
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Oct 15, 2019 15:57
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Colostomy Bag posted:A few of us every other page of posts or so will say "it's the battery." I hope so! I'm already planning on buying whatever the parts store has in stock, but I've never had a car that wouldn't take a jump, which makes me paranoid that there's something else going on. Just pissed because I think the car knows we're about to sell it... new tires earlier this year, then someone side-swiped it, then the alternator died, and now this. We keep dumping money in to it and it's killing me every time because I know I'll never see that money again. At least we can write a flowery craigslist ad with all the new crap on here.
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Oct 15, 2019 18:25
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That's a very old battery anyway
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Oct 15, 2019 18:54
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DaveSauce posted:I hope so! I'm already planning on buying whatever the parts store has in stock, but I've never had a car that wouldn't take a jump, which makes me paranoid that there's something else going on. Don't beat yourself up. We've all been there. Also throw in sunk costs.
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Oct 15, 2019 19:20
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This is my first time getting tires without having access to a tire changer. I drive a Honda Fit so I don't need anything fancy, some budget stuff like Fuzion or whatever will be good. Should I just cross-shop tire shops like Tire Kingdom/Goodyear/Firestone etc.? I don't want to bring my own to a shop because you're an rear end in a top hat if you do that
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Oct 15, 2019 19:44
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DaveSauce posted:I hope so! I'm already planning on buying whatever the parts store has in stock, but I've never had a car that wouldn't take a jump, which makes me paranoid that there's something else going on. Figure out what battery it uses, go get a battery at a junkyard for $25. And yes, it's the battery. It probably has a shorted cell (or more than one shorted cell) that's just overpowering what your jump box can provide.
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Oct 15, 2019 19:45
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feelix posted:This is my first time getting tires without having access to a tire changer. I drive a Honda Fit so I don't need anything fancy, some budget stuff like Fuzion or whatever will be good. Should I just cross-shop tire shops like Tire Kingdom/Goodyear/Firestone etc.? I don't want to bring my own to a shop because you're an rear end in a top hat if you do that No you're not. I buy my own poo poo on TireRack all the time and take it to the shop. Expect to pay 15-30 for mount/balance per tire.
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Oct 15, 2019 21:00
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Beach Bum posted:No you're not. I buy my own poo poo on TireRack all the time and take it to the shop. Expect to pay 15-30 for mount/balance per tire. Yes you are
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Oct 15, 2019 21:18
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Last set of tires I bought was $20 cheaper out the door from a local shop than it was to buy/ship from TireRack. Use TireRack to shop/compare, then call around your local tire shops to get quotes for installation.
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Oct 15, 2019 21:28
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feelix posted:Yes you are I guess I am, too, because I take new tires to shops to get them mounted all the time.
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Oct 15, 2019 21:29
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I mean it's just like any other choice to support local brick and mortar businesses over online retailers. Most mechanics are good hard working people that don't get paid enough, and they definitely think you're an rear end in a top hat if you bring in your own tires. I'm not actually serious that it makes you an rear end in a top hat, almost nobody has the luxury of spending ethically 100% of the time
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Oct 15, 2019 21:57
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feelix posted:I mean it's just like any other choice to support local brick and mortar businesses over online retailers. Most mechanics are good hard working people that don't get paid enough, and they definitely think you're an rear end in a top hat if you bring in your own tires. I'm not actually serious that it makes you an rear end in a top hat, almost nobody has the luxury of spending ethically 100% of the time The mechanics get paid the same whether they're mounting their own tires or ones I bought elsewhere.
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Oct 15, 2019 22:03
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Deteriorata posted:The mechanics get paid the same whether they're mounting their own tires or ones I bought elsewhere. Depends on the shop, I used to get commission for tires
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Oct 15, 2019 22:08
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I currently need some new tires. I have a 2013 Hyundai Accent, and on the information is says I should have 195/50r16 tires. However, I currently have 195/65r16 tires installed on the vehicle - are there benefits for this? Which size would be best to order if I replace all four?
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Oct 15, 2019 22:22
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I filled my radiator with a bottle of green antifreeze after it had been running orange antifreeze before. The reservoir was still filled with orange fluid but it looks like it hadn't cycled through the rest of the system. I understand that orange antifreeze is usually dexcool which is incompatible with other coolants. How horrible of a mechanical failure can I expect that to be? Should I take any corrective actions? 2005 Toyota Avalon if that makes any difference.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:06
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OneTwentySix posted:I currently need some new tires. I have a 2013 Hyundai Accent, and on the information is says I should have 195/50r16 tires. However, I currently have 195/65r16 tires installed on the vehicle - are there benefits for this? Which size would be best to order if I replace all four? Your current tires are a little bit taller than stock size. pre:Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 195/50-16 3.8in 11.8in 23.7in 74.4in 852 0.0% 195/65-16 5.0in 13.0in 26.0in 81.6in 776 9.7% TL;DR stock size is best but you could get a better price on a different size close to stock width/diameter. Really, it doesn't matter. More tire generally means more cost, but as different sizes have more use than others, economy of scale comes into play and some less common sizes will cost more than an also usable but off-spec size. I hesitate to counsel you to do the same, but having the knowledge I do, what I would do is shop around sizes with similar diameter and maybe a width up (205/50-16 and 205/45-16 are exactly 1.7% off stock diameter in either direction from 195/50-16). Going with more width can also increase rolling resistance but may also increase grip. feelix posted:I mean it's just like any other choice to support local brick and mortar businesses over online retailers. Most mechanics are good hard working people that don't get paid enough, and they definitely think you're an rear end in a top hat if you bring in your own tires. I'm not actually serious that it makes you an rear end in a top hat, almost nobody has the luxury of spending ethically 100% of the time TireRack is an SCCA sponsor, they sponsor the StreetSurvival program, they will sit on the phone with you and bullshit about race tires for half an hour, they haven't charged me shipping on tires in I don't even know how long, they offer free road hazard with most street tire purchases, and they have better choices for a picky bastard like me (not one shop I called had or wanted to order my Continental ExtremeContacts for a price within 10% of Tire Rack). I get more value from them. With a lift, a good tire machine, and a competent tech, swapping four tires from drive-in to roll-out takes all of like 30 minutes (I've done it!). At $20/ea the shop isn't losing their rear end over me and my tire swap. If they weren't making money off of me they wouldn't take the job at that price. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Oct 15, 2019 |
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Oct 15, 2019 23:21
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Thank you for answering, I should be good to go now!
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Oct 16, 2019 01:06
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Went to change my gear oil today and WTF @_@ The T17 bolt is completely destroyed; I can't get a bit to seat in it, and it's round on the edges. I'm not sure who did this job last. Any alternatives to drilling it out? I'm worried I'll destroy the threads on the tranny itself.
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Oct 16, 2019 01:12
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Vice grips, or grind flats on the external round, and use a wrench. or weld on a nut.
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Oct 16, 2019 01:16
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Can you get a pair of vise grips or a stillson wrench (pipe wrench) on it?
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Oct 16, 2019 01:17
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Beach Bum posted:TireRack is an SCCA sponsor, they sponsor the StreetSurvival program, they will sit on the phone with you and bullshit about race tires for half an hour, they haven't charged me shipping on tires in I don't even know how long, they offer free road hazard with most street tire purchases, and they have better choices for a picky bastard like me (not one shop I called had or wanted to order my Continental ExtremeContacts for a price within 10% of Tire Rack). I get more value from them. Tire Rack is awesome, and the increased price per mount/balance I see are local places is them making up for their margin on selling you the tires (that the probably could't get or not anywhere near the same price). Everyone wins. If you car is an appliance just go to loving walmart and take what they have. blk posted:Went to change my gear oil today and WTF @_@ T18 or 19 and a hammer. Have a replacement plug on hand.
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Oct 16, 2019 03:07
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EvenWorseOpinions posted:I filled my radiator with a bottle of green antifreeze after it had been running orange antifreeze before. The reservoir was still filled with orange fluid but it looks like it hadn't cycled through the rest of the system. I understand that orange antifreeze is usually dexcool which is incompatible with other coolants. How horrible of a mechanical failure can I expect that to be? Should I take any corrective actions? 2005 Toyota Avalon if that makes any difference. You should have Toyota long life coolant in it (pink or red normally), not Dexcool. You need to flush the system unless the green stuff was marked as "universal".
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Oct 16, 2019 03:16
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STR posted:You need to flush the system unless the green stuff was marked as "universal". The sooner the better.
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Oct 16, 2019 03:21
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I need a vehicle that can comfortably sit five, plus a dog, and camping gear, and travel down logging roads and beat up rural highways. And handle with real winter driving. Am I stuck looking at SUVs or am I underestimating minivans?
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Oct 16, 2019 04:07
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just another posted:I need a vehicle that can comfortably sit five, plus a dog, and camping gear, and travel down logging roads and beat up rural highways. And handle with real winter driving. The Toyota Sienna has 4WD available. It's the only minivan I know of that has it. It's also got 6.5" of ground clearance. It's a possibility, anyway.
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Oct 16, 2019 04:24
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just another posted:I need a vehicle that can comfortably sit five, plus a dog, and camping gear, and travel down logging roads and beat up rural highways. And handle with real winter driving. Winter tires go a long way on a FWD vehicle, but depending on the true nature of these logging roads and some serious thought about how difficult and expensive it would be for a tow to get to you if stuck, it may be wise to stick to awd/4wd vehicles. That probably limits you to proper SUVs with real 4wd systems, and other SUVs with awd systems. The outlier is Subarus, but they can be a bit of a minefield as they seem to be either dead reliable or suffering from major issues depending on model and year.
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Oct 16, 2019 05:02
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