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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The drawknife I bought is doing a nice job of removing bark from this slab, except for the parts that are inside of indentations, like this: Scorp? https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/timber-tuff-scorp.aspx
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Jan 6, 2020 23:15
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There are also highly curved drawknives, e.g.  But the radius of the curve is still a limiting factor.
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Jan 6, 2020 23:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's attractive, easy to work, reasonably hard, readily available, and cheaper than most alternatives I have access to. 
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Jan 6, 2020 23:25
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mds2 posted:Right before Christmas I inherited my great uncles 1952 shopsmith. This will be used almost exclusively as a lathe. Having no previous turning experience this has been a really fun tool to use. Other than a little rust on the tubes the machine is in drat near new condition. Do you have a screw face plate? Do you mind if your bowl is more of a strainer in the end  Buy a chuck. It is honestly the best investment for a lathe. I have a Talon and absolutely love it, its a bit more than a Nova but between the two it is worth the extra. I have lost a few bowls out of the narrower nova jaws. https://www.amazon.com/ONEWAY-Talon...278900642&psc=1
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Jan 7, 2020 00:13
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ColdPie posted:As a hand tool nut, Cherry is quickly becoming my go to wood. Good to know. Birch is the same price as oak for me and it's (confusingly) called cherry in my region.
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Jan 7, 2020 01:10
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mds2 posted:Right before Christmas I inherited my great uncles 1952 shopsmith. This will be used almost exclusively as a lathe. Having no previous turning experience this has been a really fun tool to use. Other than a little rust on the tubes the machine is in drat near new condition. If you have a faceplate, you can screw or glue the bowl to that, but a chuck is really a great thing to have around (and a drill chuck that fits the headstock and tailstock) TooMuchAbstraction posted:The drawknife I bought is doing a nice job of removing bark from this slab, except for the parts that are inside of indentations, like this: ColdPie posted:As a hand tool nut, Cherry is quickly becoming my go to wood.
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Jan 7, 2020 01:36
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Horizontal boring works pretty good on a shopsmith. it can change height and you can clamp a block down to brace the piece from the side and its got a nice big table to work on. Look for a machine made after 1984 as they have an improved quill with less runout generally ( the serial number is on the opposite side of main quill and you can look it up here https://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/serialnumber.htm ) Make sure you brace the main table against the auxiliary table to keep it from deflecting down. The guy at the used tool shop here was pretty sad when the last on he had sold since he got some good use out of for drilling holes for lamps. It might be worth a shot for you.
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Jan 7, 2020 01:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'd use a nice sharp gouge and leave the gouge texture and pretend it was on purpose. My Sherwin Williams has some thin 3M sanding sponge pad things that make smoothing the gouge marks that alot easier. Curved card scraper might help too as a go between between gouge and sandpaper if you want to remove the gouge texture? Alright, thanks for the advice. Same goes for y'all that posted about drawknives with tighter radii, though I think I'm about done buying new tools for this project, between the angle grinder, bench grinder, scrub plane, and drawknife. Criminy. And yeah, depending on how hard it is to clear the gouge marks I'll probably just end up not worrying about them. This stuff won't be terribly visible anyway, as it's mostly in recesses on the underside of the piece.
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Jan 7, 2020 02:03
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Hey folks. As a computer toucher by day I've decided to get back into doing something more concrete. And by concrete, I mean wood and woodlike stuff. Which is not concrete. It's fairly unlike concrete, even. But anyway. I have a little bit of an understanding of what one can/should do and what you can get away with; I took a lot of shop classes in school and my dad does a little bit of rough carpentry, he tried to get me interested in it as a kid and it didn't take. I am also a video dork, so I'm thinking about putting together a work log on YouTube. I have a lot of friends who, as I've started putting together the tools that I'll need--thank you Black Friday sales--have said that they wish they could/wish they knew enough/etc etc to get into this stuff, and of course they can but maybe some well-produced and detailed stuff can encourage somebody to do it. Or at least to watch it and get mad at me or something. There's an absolutely awful worktable in the basement at the moment, it was here when we bought the house, and I want to get rid of it. So, like absolutely everybody else, I want to knock together a workbench--something that'll last a decent while, even if it's not forever. Turns out Fusion360 doesn't work if you're on Windows Insider, so I had to go learn how to FreeCAD. FreeCAD's pretty rough after spending a lot of time in 3D modeling tools! But I've put together the start of a plan, and I'd be very grateful for a set of eyes or three and any advice that might be pertinent.  Bench top (brown): 72" x 33", laminated pine, oriented up/down and trimmed to about 2.5". The overhang is 16", and the table will be affixed to a concrete floor. The top's supported by legs (green). They set a bench height of 36.5", which is the same height as my standing desk. I know folks say to use a lower table for hand tools, but I don't see myself getting into hand tools. I get enough of a contact high reading about y'all's Stanleys. Those legs are made primarily out of two 2x4 verticals, with one uninterrupted piece acting as a tenon through the top and a second piece, the inner one, butting up against the top (and if it's hard to tell it's whole vertically but will be used to half-lap the widthwise stringers). The third, external piece on each leg is to provide vertical support for the horizontal stringers, in blue, but they're not complete boards and so most of the weight of the bench will be supported by the former pieces. I wanted the lengthwise stringers at the top, even though I may not need them structurally, to create additional clamping room for projects. I'll probably eventually add a lengthwise shelf to the bottom, though leaving myself some clamping room. As mentioned it's been awhile since I spent any time in a wood shop, but I'm fairly certain that I'm not looking at any joints that might be a problem with regards to relying on glue--no end grain to side grain joints except the leg supports, and those will be mostly for additional compression strength, with the top glued in place with the tenons going through. Does that make sense? Am I full of poo poo? I might be full of poo poo, I don't know.  The legs, with the top removed. FreeCAD is a pain in the rear end, so there's some Z-fighting and the cross pieces look like two 1.5" pieces when it's actually a 2x4 cross-lapped to the horizontal stringer, but the idea is two across at roughly a third of the way across on top and bottom. My intuition is that this is overkill since it'll be attached to the floor, but I figure it'll be worth it when I put a shelf down there.  I really wish I understood what drove FreeCAD to do...this...with my measurements. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 07:18
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AFashionableHat posted:I really wish I understood what drove FreeCAD to do...this...with my measurements. As a computer toucher I think you know the answer to this already. Welcome, and looking forward to seeing your video series!
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Jan 7, 2020 13:12
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That's basically the same as my workbench, except I have mine screwed together instead of tenoned. It weighs a lot.
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Jan 7, 2020 13:29
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JEEVES420 posted:Do you have a screw face plate? Do you mind if your bowl is more of a strainer in the end It did come with a 6" screw face plate. Last night I watched some videos on gluing the work piece to a sacrificial board that was screwed to a face plate. I might give that a shot. A chuck is on the top of my shopping list. Woodworking related: I smashed the end of my pinky off fixing my bandsaw. I was running it with the guards off and my pinky hit the upper wheel. They sewed it back on. 
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Jan 7, 2020 14:32
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mds2 posted:Woodworking related: I smashed the end of my pinky off fixing my bandsaw. I was running it with the guards off and my pinky hit the upper wheel. They sewed it back on.  come again?
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Jan 7, 2020 16:34
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AFashionableHat posted:Bench top (brown): 72" x 33" 33'' is pretty wide. I build my bench off the the Roubo plans Christopher Schwartz has in his book/video. It is 24" wide, and works just fine. Keep in mind that you will have to be reaching across for stuff, and occasionally walking around it.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:35
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JEEVES420 posted:
Its about as stupid as it sounds. I didnt really cut it off, and it didnt happen with the blade. I was trying to figure out why the saw wasnt running right, popped the cover open on it, and hit my hand in the spinning upper wheel. The end of my pinky "snapped" off right at the cuticle. A quick trip to the ER and they sewed it back on. The problem with the saw was the bottom tire broke.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:40
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mds2 posted:Its about as stupid as it sounds. I didnt really cut it off, and it didnt happen with the blade. I was trying to figure out why the saw wasnt running right, popped the cover open on it, and hit my hand in the spinning upper wheel. The end of my pinky "snapped" off right at the cuticle. A quick trip to the ER and they sewed it back on.  Sorry about that. woof
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Jan 7, 2020 16:47
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mds2 posted:Its about as stupid as it sounds. I didnt really cut it off, and it didnt happen with the blade. I was trying to figure out why the saw wasnt running right, popped the cover open on it, and hit my hand in the spinning upper wheel. The end of my pinky "snapped" off right at the cuticle. A quick trip to the ER and they sewed it back on. drat that smarts. Condolences mds2, good to hear it got repaired. But maybe that belongs in the DIY>Sewing thread? edit- we need to edit the Slatflippers tag to have a hand in it with a few missing finger joints Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 17:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:drat that smarts. Condolences mds2, good to hear it got repaired. But maybe that belongs in the DIY>Sewing thread? Sewing thread? How drab. Should have just asked for some quick help in the fix it fast thread and been guided to the... lego thread?
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Jan 7, 2020 17:21
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Sewing thread? How drab. Should have just asked for some quick help in the fix it fast thread and been guided to the... lego thread? Where I give my same default answer..meh just throw some super glue on it.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:As a computer toucher I think you know the answer to this already. quote:Welcome, and looking forward to seeing your video series! I know enough to know what I need to figure out, but I'm not by any means an expert and I think that could be fun to put out there. Like I said, maybe it'll be interesting to somebody who was in the position I was. And it's fun to do. DevNull posted:33'' is pretty wide. I build my bench off the the Roubo plans Christopher Schwartz has in his book/video. It is 24" wide, and works just fine. Keep in mind that you will have to be reaching across for stuff, and occasionally walking around it. That's a good point. I just reached across my desk, which is 33" deep, and realized that that's an enormous pain in the rear end. And it gives me more room to move around ye olde basement at like 27" (24" felt a little too small given my horizontal reach). Thanks for pointing that out.
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Jan 7, 2020 18:05
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Got my Delta 36-725 set up and aligned, finally. Took most of the day Saturday to get it in the basement and set up, then 3 tries over 3 days to get the blade aligned. Out of box, the blade/motor assembly was off by ~3/16" over the length of the blade, which is... awful: front:  back:  Running through instructions online for adjusting the blade alignment (including the powerpoint Delta CS supposedly sends you if you ask about it), there were only instructions for adjusting it the other way, i.e. fixing it if the front of the blade was too far to the right. When I tried nudging the back into parallel, the front moved left enough that it scraped the throat plate. Eventually I figured out how to shift the front over to the left. There's still only about 1/8" of clearance, so I might need to make ZC inserts for bevels, or try to nudge the whole thing over more. But this was such a PITA that I don't want to gently caress with it ever again. If I could have easily gotten it back in the box (which is destroyed) and out of the basement I would have returned it, but I'm glad I didn't have to. Now that it's set up though, what a dream. I had been using a Ryobi Mistake, and it's just... better in every way. I actually feel like I have control of the workpiece, I trust the fence to lock parallel, I'm not getting giant blade mark gouges on rip cuts, the miter gauge is actually usable, I can actually use my dado stack. In comparison, the Ryobi feels like a fundamentally unsafe tool. edit: I did have one problem -- I was making repeated crosscuts on a ~1.5" wide piece of pine with a stopblock on my rip fence. The first couple were perfect, but then they started jamming about halfway through -- blade was spinning fine, but it seemed like it needed an unsafe amount of force to push the piece through the last 1/2" or so. Then I saw the peeled up front of the warning sticker on the throat plate
more falafel please fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 18:13
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Re: that bench, AFashionableHat, I'd figure out in advance where you're going to put your vise(s). Also potentially any holes for bench dogs. e. more falafel, do yourself a huge favor and just plan to get/make a zero clearance insert anyway. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 18:57
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mds2 posted:Its about as stupid as it sounds. I didnt really cut it off, and it didnt happen with the blade. I was trying to figure out why the saw wasnt running right, popped the cover open on it, and hit my hand in the spinning upper wheel. The end of my pinky "snapped" off right at the cuticle. A quick trip to the ER and they sewed it back on. Ouch ouch ouch ouch ouch etc. drat that really sounds painful, glad it could get patched up. My bandsaw has euro safety stuff (including a switch lockout if the door is open) and it occasionally frustrates me because I’ve wanted to to exactly what you were doing to diagnose a problem. Sounds like that lockout is there for a reason!
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Jan 7, 2020 20:54
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Leperflesh posted:e. more falafel, do yourself a huge favor and just plan to get/make a zero clearance insert anyway. Oh most definitely. I've got a backlog of jigs/accessories I need to make -- my old Ryobi had the awful nonstandard miter slots with the notches in them that make it basically impossible to make jigs of any kind, so I want to make all the stuff I've been pining for: zero clearance insert, crosscut sled, miter/picture frame sled, taper/edge joint jig, spline jig, box joint jig. That's just off the top of my head.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:12
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So I’m getting ready to build my workbench. I have the 2x4s I need left over from when my father in law built some shelves in my basement when I first bought the house. All I should need material wise is a full sheet of plywood. The problem is that we drive a Kia Forte. I’m not fitting a full sheet in there, and we don’t have a roof rack. I could have it delivered, but the shipping cost is higher than the cost of the plywood itself. How do you transport sheet goods without a truck?
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Jan 8, 2020 00:30
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If you aren't going to be able to have them cut it down for you to fit it sounds like you need to find someone with a truck and buy em a sixer or rent one yourself
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Jan 8, 2020 00:37
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BobbyDrake posted:So I’m getting ready to build my workbench. I have the 2x4s I need left over from when my father in law built some shelves in my basement when I first bought the house. All I should need material wise is a full sheet of plywood. The problem is that we drive a Kia Forte. I’m not fitting a full sheet in there, and we don’t have a roof rack. I could have it delivered, but the shipping cost is higher than the cost of the plywood itself. How do you transport sheet goods without a truck? Lots of home improvement stores rent pickup trucks for reasonable rates. Around here it's $20 for 90 minutes with no milage charges.
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Jan 8, 2020 00:46
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Yeah renting a truck is how I move my big stuff around. Or if you don't like that, just pay to have it delivered, if their rates aren't super bonkers. You're saving more than that in gas and car price with the Kia anyway.
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Jan 8, 2020 00:54
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:If you aren't going to be able to have them cut it down for you to fit it sounds like you need to find someone with a truck and buy em a sixer or rent one yourself Khizan posted:Lots of home improvement stores rent pickup trucks for reasonable rates. Around here it's $20 for 90 minutes with no milage charges. ColdPie posted:Yeah renting a truck is how I move my big stuff around. Or if you don't like that, just pay to have it delivered, if their rates aren't super bonkers. You're saving more than that in gas and car price with the Kia anyway. Yeah, probably just going to rent a truck from Home Depot. The cost at Home Depot in my area is 20 bucks for 75 minutes. Not too bad, considering they wanted 79 bucks to deliver a 45 dollar sheet of plywood.
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Jan 8, 2020 04:03
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Sorry if this outs me as an idiot, but where do you all stand (or conventional wisdom) on sanding before or after surface drilling. Do you sand down your board then drill some countersunk screw holes? Do you plop your holes, then sand the surface?
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Jan 8, 2020 22:57
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Either works, but before sanding is better. The less handling the work gets after sanding the better, imo, and sanding will knock the fuzz off from the countersink holes etc. However that’s not always practical, especially with installing hardware on a finished piece and then just be carefully. Masking tape on the entrance/exit wounds and good sharp Brad point bits help reduce blowout and make a nice clean hole. I am most careful handling stuff between final finish sanding with 220 and sealing. Once it has a coat of sealer/finish on you don’t have to worry as much about greasy/sweaty hands and stuff messing with stain/finish. So I guess either before sanding if possible, or after finishing, but preferably not between sanding and finishing (though any is fine if you’re careful)?
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Jan 8, 2020 23:18
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Cool. Some times I’ve had to do it after but for what I’m doing now I think before would be best.
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Jan 8, 2020 23:30
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In another episode of Idiot Woodworker... There was a brief moment or two where my flu-addled brain random orbit sanded some of this mahogany without face mask. Didn't think much of it, but (and this could be me just being sick) now I smell this weird almost like, paint/chemical smell. Is that from the Mahog particles? Am I dying?
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Jan 9, 2020 03:46
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Feenix posted:In another episode of Idiot Woodworker... There was a brief moment or two where my flu-addled brain random orbit sanded some of this mahogany without face mask. Didn't think much of it, but (and this could be me just being sick) now I smell this weird almost like, paint/chemical smell. Is that from the Mahog particles? Post pics!
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Jan 9, 2020 04:50
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No spirits or finishing. Could just be my sinuses from being sick. Just thought I’d ask. I’ll post pics when it’s more interesting than just “plank of wood” 
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Jan 9, 2020 05:05
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Feenix posted:In another episode of Idiot Woodworker... There was a brief moment or two where my flu-addled brain random orbit sanded some of this mahogany without face mask. Didn't think much of it, but (and this could be me just being sick) now I smell this weird almost like, paint/chemical smell. Is that from the Mahog particles? That's the smell of napalm and dying flu virii in the morning. Mahogany is an anti-viral.
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Jan 9, 2020 17:41
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Mr. Mambold posted:That's the smell of napalm and dying flu virii in the morning. Mahogany is an anti-viral. I'll take it?
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Jan 9, 2020 18:01
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I went into the shop yesterday, planning on making some basic headphone stands. 2 hours later, I'd put up a wall, re-organized my lathe, router, planer, jointer, miter saw, and disk sander, put up a wood wall protecting my furnace and got 0 progress toward my original goal.  Nailed it
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Jan 9, 2020 18:57
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I went into the shop yesterday, planning on making some basic headphone stands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbSehcT19u0
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Jan 9, 2020 19:16
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BobbyDrake posted:Not too bad, considering they wanted 79 bucks to deliver a 45 dollar sheet of plywood. You might be buying a fancier piece of ply than you really need for just a worktop bench. Assuming your backing it with those 2x4s to a reasonable degree, I bet you could get away with something like this half-inch sanded stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sanded-Plywood-FSC-Certified-Common-15-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-451-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-577278/100097501 alternatively instead of cutting down a whole sheet, HD sells "project" ply in various dimensions that would reduce your wastage. E.g., maybe you'd get away with a 4x4 and a 2x4 or maybe two 2x4 sheets of this stuff? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sanded-Plywood-Common-1-2-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Actual-0-451-in-x-23-75-in-x-47-75-in-300896/202093833 Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 22:20
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