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wolrah posted:If I could find one of these in my area that wasn't some combination of rusted to poo poo, donked out, overpriced, or not-350 I'd be all over it. A big boaty wagon that can tow a midsize trailer seems like it's actually what I need rather than the truck that's a lot more want. Yeah, it's got a rack there...two crossbars, across the width. They're sorta faired into the roof - recessed - so they doesn't do much to protct the painted areas of the roof. The front crossbar has clamps, and can be slid backwards. There're four lugs that can be used to tie things down. From what I understand, there is/was some type of GM accessory that clamps on to the crossbars that allows for a (more utilitarian) standing rack to be installed. As it was, it did a yeoman job of carrying this season's tree. It's a '93, so it has the normal 350, which means I could replace the water pump easily, same as my '66. Plugs & distributor are a bitch to get at, though. e: ugh snipe. Have a holiday pic: 
PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 03:31
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French Canadian posted:Thanks for this clarification. My knowledge of diesels is thin. Just be sure there isn't some weird pulse mode that requires it to be timed. Otherwise it's just using the belt to run the pump. e: Thank you, STR and Initial Dave French Canadian posted:#124 is actually the crank shaft timing pulley (just going by the PartSouq diagram popups). As per above, it's not uncommon to use the timing belt to power other things. Honda likes to run their water pumps off of them. No, it's not timing-critical. French Canadian posted:According to a reputable man who writes in all capital letters on an Isuzu forum, that injection pump pulley may very well have a small hole for a bolt which can thread in and secure the pulley in place while removing the pump. Is that a normal thing? I would expect it has a timing mark anyway. But I guess it could be helpful to utilize. It's useful to keep the pulley from rotating so you can loosen the bolt holding it on. There may be holes through the other pulleys for the same purpose.  PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 03:45
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Hardtop. REMOVABLE. Hard top.
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Jan 9, 2020 13:06
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PainterofCrap posted:My knowledge of diesels is thin. Just be sure there isn't some weird pulse mode that requires it to be timed. Otherwise it's just using the belt to run the pump. Injection pumps absolutely need to be timed on a diesel.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:16
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To clarify, diesels have a normal get-it-from-the-tank-to-the-engine pump, plus a squirt-it-into-the-engine pump, the latter needs to be timed in the same way an ignition system does.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:41
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Motronic posted:Calipers are not a wear item. It sounds like your slider pins need to be greased. The original quote was from Midas. I know they should be avoided, but I had originally gone in just for a sticker. I asked my car guy friend to recommend a shop he trusts, and the guy seems legit. He agreed the calipers are toast but walked me through why. Apparently the design is poo poo and I'll have to pay more attention to them if I want to keep this car long term. On the plus side, he's charging a lot less than Midas, so there's that.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:08
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So is there a design flaw here? What is the vehicle?
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Jan 9, 2020 19:31
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C-Bangin' it 
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14 Hyundai Elantra. I don't know nearly enough about cars to describe it right. But with my car, the emergency brake is integrated in to the calipers rather than separate, so with debris and rust etc, it's sticking. Or something. I definitely just continued driving without having anyone take a good look at my brakes, figuring I'd just take care of things when necessary. Come to think of it, when I release the emergency brake, there would be a little bit of a clunking sound I didn't have checked out. I don't know what's up with that. Either way, I'll have to have someone take a look periodically and avoid having this happen again.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:01
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Mazdas use the caliper as the parking brake for at least 30 years. I don't see the issue.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:07
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I've just experienced what I'm assuming is a Low Battery Situation in my 2004 Honda Civic (UK). Battery symbol lit up, struggling to turn over, that sort of thing. Recovered after leaving it alone for 20 minutes and trying again. I'll be keeping a battery booster in the car from now on, but given that I was sat for only 5-10 minutes, with some low air con on, side lights, and radio, is this an indicator that I need a new battery? To my knowledge it's never been replaced. If so, is that the sort of thing I buy on Amazon and put in myself? I'm always a little wary of DIYing anything with kill-you levels of electricity.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:08
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Stupid question: I've changed the brakes and rotors on a bunch of cars, mostly sedans, but it looks like it might be time to do it on my 2005 Pilot. Previously I used to be able to do it in my garage, but I no longer have a garage (just a carport), and no jackstands/floor jack other than the one that came with the car for the spare tire. Would it be dumb to do it with that or should I just take it in? I have all the other tools needed to do the job including the impact screwdriver, because Honda uses screws to hold these rotors on, just wondering if I should be more careful with this being an SUV.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:37
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Bank posted:Stupid question: I've changed the brakes and rotors on a bunch of cars, mostly sedans, but it looks like it might be time to do it on my 2005 Pilot. Previously I used to be able to do it in my garage, but I no longer have a garage (just a carport), and no jackstands/floor jack other than the one that came with the car for the spare tire. Would it be dumb to do it with that or should I just take it in? I have all the other tools needed to do the job including the impact screwdriver, because Honda uses screws to hold these rotors on, just wondering if I should be more careful with this being an SUV. Do not do anything but emergency on the road service with your emergency jack. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-trolley-jack-64874.html https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-steel-jack-stands-61196.html Find yourself a 20% off coupon pretty much anywhere. Cage fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 20:50
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Moneyball posted:14 Hyundai Elantra. I don't know nearly enough about cars to describe it right. You can strip them and clean them up/rebuild them, but often replacing them is easier. However, a clunk when releasing the handbrake and setting off, particularly if the car has been parked up overnight in winter weather, is quite possibly just slight corrosion sticking the pads to the disc and them cracking free of that. It's pretty normal.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just experienced what I'm assuming is a Low Battery Situation in my 2004 Honda Civic (UK). Battery symbol lit up, struggling to turn over, that sort of thing. Recovered after leaving it alone for 20 minutes and trying again. That light will always be on if the key is on without the engine running. That said, if it only took 10 minutes for a fan and lights to drain it, your battery is about done. I've sat parked with the radio, interior fan, and a seat heater on in my car (a similar vintage Subaru), for half an hour, with no issue. That light is to let you know your alternator isn't working; it doesn't indicate a dead battery. On everything but the most expensive cars (or cars trying to look expensive, I'm looking at you, Chrysler 300), it only lights if the alternator isn't working. The alternator isn't working if the engine is off; if you see it light up with the engine running, it's time to pull over (or if you're really close to home, drive home) and figure out how to swap your alternator. The aircon isn't capable of actual cooling with the engine off on your car; it uses a belt-driven compressor. The fan inside will run without the engine on, and the AC light will still come on, but it won't run the compressor. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 23:27
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STR posted:That light will always be on if the key is on without the engine running. That said, if it only took 10 minutes for a fan and lights to drain it, your battery is about done. I've sat parked with the radio, interior fan, and a seat heater on in my car (a similar vintage Subaru), for half an hour, with no issue. That's what I thought, but I didn't want to assume. STR posted:The aircon isn't capable of actual cooling with the engine off on your car; it uses a belt-driven compressor. The fan inside will run without the engine on, and the AC light will still come on, but it won't run the compressor. Gotcha. I didn't know if there was some mechanism to make that work. It was in heat mode anyway. I've taken a look at battery jump packs and they seem to be either £30 or £300 with no real indication that either will actually work when you need them to. Are they bogus?
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Jan 9, 2020 23:51
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I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGRN4TF/ because it seemed nicely oversized and had lots of legit looking reviews. I actually got to use it once, I was ozone treating without the car running and ran the battery down. The battery wasn't DEAD but it wouldn't turn over. Hooked it up, started the car first try and it was at 98%. Seems pretty good, but I haven't had to use it in a really ugly situation yet. Everything seems well made, it comes with a decent case, and it holds a charge a long time. (apologies if it isn't available near you) taqueso fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 00:03
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taqueso posted:I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGRN4TF/ because it seemed nicely oversized and had lots of legit looking reviews. I actually got to use it once, I was ozone treating without the car running and ran the battery down. The battery wasn't DEAD but it wouldn't turn over. Hooked it up, started the car first try and it was at 98%. Seems pretty good, but I haven't had to use it in a really ugly situation yet. Everything seems well made, it comes with a decent case, and it holds a charge a long time. Thanks for the pointer 
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Jan 10, 2020 01:46
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I've got one of these that I've used several times without fail to jump a dead Bronco https://no.co/gb40
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Jan 10, 2020 04:26
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About how much does it cost to hire a lawyer for a simple speeding ticket? Entirely hypothetical, I just watched a video recommending it and I've always figured lawyers are too expensive for typical $100-300 ticket.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:37
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:About how much does it cost to hire a lawyer for a simple speeding ticket? Entirely hypothetical, I just watched a video recommending it and I've always figured lawyers are too expensive for typical $100-300 ticket. The consequences of pleading guilty and just paying a simple speeding ticket are pretty low. Even if successful, there's little benefit to you and the lawyer would easily cost far more than the ticket. Hiring a lawyer is generally reserved for more serious offenses.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:42
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But the cost of a ticket isn’t the entire cost - the years of increased insurance premiums will far exceed the upfront cost. Whether that exceeds the cost of a lawyer, I dunno.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:53
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There is a https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2400008#post325053528 taqueso fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 06:56
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:About how much does it cost to hire a lawyer for a simple speeding ticket? Entirely hypothetical, I just watched a video recommending it and I've always figured lawyers are too expensive for typical $100-300 ticket. Last one I had I paid a lawyer 200 bucks to get me a civil fine and diversion. It was an out of state ticket I couldn’t handle myself which is why I paid the lawyer, if yours is local check for any sort of diversion program, traffic school option, etc The goal is to keep the ticket off your record at all cost. It’s going to cost but that’s just the speeding tax. They just want your money.
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Jan 10, 2020 07:23
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taqueso posted:There is a I can attest to the fact that the tips in that post are effective, though.
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Jan 10, 2020 07:26
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:About how much does it cost to hire a lawyer for a simple speeding ticket? Entirely hypothetical, I just watched a video recommending it and I've always figured lawyers are too expensive for typical $100-300 ticket. I've had luck just faxing in a letter asking to have the ticket changed to a 0-point ticket. Except for the one in Ohio because they're assholes.
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Jan 10, 2020 07:43
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Krakkles posted:I’m curious if that figure is accurate in other markets or if it’s changed over time - if I recall correctly, the author (einTier) was from Texas, and that post is at least 10 years old. I can’t imagine getting a lawyer to do anything for $150 in Los Angeles, today. This is the guy I PayPal’d 200 bucks to when I got a ticket in f’in Iberville parish Louisiana. Get a load of his picture. https://latrafficticket.com
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Jan 10, 2020 07:48
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He spends $100/200 getting hurricanes with the prosecutor and bam it's fixed.
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Jan 10, 2020 07:59
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Oh wow this is all really good information, thanks.
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Jan 10, 2020 08:07
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What rear wiper arms fit a 95 XJ Jeep Cherokee? It has the pain in the rear end splined cylinder. It looks like they machined the threaded section off a normal splined taper then cast the pot metal cylinder over it. The arm has been off a few years since it got broken off.
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Jan 10, 2020 09:08
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Hopefully you have a diversion program. I think it was 10 or 20 bucks more than the ticket.
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Jan 10, 2020 13:44
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For battery jump kits to keep in the car, my wife and I have Jump-N-Carry ones and I've been very happy with them. The one I have is no longer made, but my wife has this one with a built-in small air compressor and they both have worked great whenever needed for jumping something or occasionally filling tires away from home or when I don't want to start up the 60 gallon compressor.
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Jan 10, 2020 15:12
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I've ordered a NOCO one, and I'll be heading somewhere local to pick up a battery since no online supplier can agree on which one is correct for my car. Like Amazon is showing two "compatible" batteries that have opposite poles.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:15
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2012 Toyota Prius plug-in (195/65/R15) Used in coastal New England, very little snow. Does anyone have advice on buying tires? I have the option of Midas etc locally but was looking also at TireRack.com. Before I spent anything I wanted to see what current wisdom was on this with respect to getting my own tires vs letting a shop do it all and what buying online looked like these days vs just getting it from them. The vehicle has almost exactly 100k miles on it and I'd like to get a set of all-weather tires for it as we don't get a lot of ice and snow here particularly but I do drive in rainy conditions often. Any specific suggestions on brand/ vendors would be appreciated. I don't mind spending a little more on these if it's worth it long term as I intend to drive this car until it disintegrates. I have a Jeep for times when the weather is especially bad, hence why am looking at all-weather vs winter/snow tires and a separate set of something else etc. tl:dr where's the best place to get tires these days / what are the best brands that aren't ridiculously overpriced?
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Jan 10, 2020 16:29
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I've bought my last 2 sets of tires from Walmart of all places. They had the best price on the tire by far, and their installation prices are good. Stick with the major brands, avoid the super cheap chinese stuff that Walmart sells. Michelin makes great tires but tend to be the most expensive. With your tire size though, it's not as big a deal. Tires are tires, it doesn't really matter where you buy them. Unless they're on the rack at the shop, all the stores in the area are getting them from the same distributor anyway. I don't know much about eco friendly tires as I buy performance tires for my car, but looking at eco-focused tires on tire rack you can't really go wrong with the popular options there. I'm partial to Continental tires so I'd probably buy those TrueContact Tour tires. The Bridgestone Ecopia and Michelin Premier A/S would also be excellent choices. I personally don't care for Hankook tires at all. I did put some Pirelli's on my wife's car and I really like them. Try to read tire reviews for your specific car if possible. The same tires on different cars can have wildly different reviews. If you call around to get quotes on the tires, make sure you get the Out The Door price. Some shops sell the tires for cost, but then charge you 40+ bucks a tire to install them. If you're a Sams or Costco member, try them.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:53
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There's a tire thread. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596&pagenumber=9&perpage=40 Tldr, read reviews on Tire Rack, I'd go between ordering from them and going to Discount Tire (they're seem to competitive on price), there's no good "brand", it depends on the specific tire.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:54
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The UK may be different, but I almost always wind up buying from https://www.blackcircles.com/ as a) they have cheaper prices, b) that's where the fitters buy from, c) my local fitter prefers that you book through blackcircles for both the tyres and the fitting. Personally I'm a fan of continental sport contact tyres, they give really good turning grip in the rain (UK country roads), but they are quite expensive.
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Jan 10, 2020 16:56
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Thanks all. Didn't spot the tire thread!
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Jan 10, 2020 17:01
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Make sure you read the original tire thread. That one's just a retread.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:12
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So out of curiosity, I had the parts store test my battery when I dropped off used oil. 600 CCA, 750 CA AC Delco Professional battery (unsure what group it is), in a 2003 Subaru Outback (2.5 automatic). They measured 12.95 volts and 823 "CCA" (and a 93 degree battery temp, so uh... I think that cold part is out the window - it was high 60s outside), and said my alternator was overcharging significantly. Didn't test the alternator. Car had been parked about 10 minutes after being driven about 30, so I know the voltage will probably be a little higher. When I got home, I threw my multimeter on the battery. 12.95. I started the engine and immediately went back to the battery - caught it climbing from ~12.8, it stabilized at 13.85. Turned on everything in the car - still 13.8 with headlights, fog lights, AC with fan on high (so radiator fan running as well)... until I hit the windshield heater, then it dropped to 12.9, went back up to 13.85 over about 30 seconds. Revved it to ~3k, it held solid at 13.85 with everything in the car turned on. Guessing the guy misinterpreted the "cold" amps as the amps it was putting out. 12.95 does seem a little on the high side, but the car is putting a solid 13.8-13.9 into it, which sounds right. I was pretty sure the battery was fine, but since it came with the car, and I've had the car less than a year, I wanted to get a tester thrown on it. It wasn't a carbon pile tester, so no telling how accurate it was. The car cranks fine; turns over a little slower when it's cold out (<40F), but every car I've owned cranks a little slower when it's cold out. Overcharging a bit, or parts store guy just dumb? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 17:39
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Eh, sounds fine to me. You were placing quite a load on the amp when sitting at idle.
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Jan 10, 2020 17:55
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