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Invest in an Alaskan mill or hire a mobile saw mill to slab it up for you, assuming the logs are big enough to justify it?
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Jan 26, 2020 22:43
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See I dunno if it'd be worth hiring anyone, even though there's a lot of em. They're mostly not particularly huge, I would say just big enough to be a pain in the rear end to move around by hand by myself tbh. Same with an Alaskan mill, I don't see myself being able to get a lot of use out of it past this one time. I'm absolutely fine with literally sawing all this by hand, I need some drat exercise anyway. Idk I suppose I'm mostly wondering if there's some tips people know offhand or if there's something I can look up that has info about how to plan cuts and if there's anything to look out for with drying them, all I know about that is once you get them cut you can just seal off the end grains, stack them with gaps for airflow, keep them away from rain and water and let them dry outside for a few months, then bring them somewhere to dry for real? Like it would take ~1yr per 1" or something like this? Like take this bigass thing that's pretty much the shape of one of those bastards. Do I wanna chop it into pieces like this?  Like this?  Cut the elbows and do each part of the branch separately? Should I try to max out the length of boards I can get? Try to max the amount of straightest grain I can get even if it means many more shorter boards?
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Jan 26, 2020 23:27
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Post a pic of the wood
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Jan 26, 2020 23:32
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SniperWoreConverse posted:So I've found myself with a shitload of super weird giant logs from a dead tree that feel on my property. They're all whorled and have different streaks of colors and are pretty cool looking. Giant logs... by hand tools... is not a great combination. I've got 3 big straight-grain oak logs out front that I've been attacking with a chainsaw, and I've only got a couple useable slabs after maybe 4 hours of work. An unexperienced person using hand-tools is an order of magnitude more work than that.
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Jan 27, 2020 19:10
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Flush twice imo
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Jan 27, 2020 19:27
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SniperWoreConverse posted:See I dunno if it'd be worth hiring anyone, even though there's a lot of em. They're mostly not particularly huge, I would say just big enough to be a pain in the rear end to move around by hand by myself tbh. Same with an Alaskan mill, I don't see myself being able to get a lot of use out of it past this one time. I'm absolutely fine with literally sawing all this by hand, I need some drat exercise anyway. If you really want to use it, I’d cut it into shorter (3-4’) logs and then saw those however you want, but the straighter the grain runs through a board, the more stable and less warpy the dried lumber. It’ll be sasier to handle smaller logs and should yield boards big enough for furniture scale stuff. Most handsaws you might buy for tree work are made for cross cutting aren’t going to handle ripping well and most woodworking handsaws for ripping aren’t going to handle green wood very well, so prepare for this to be a huge pain in the rear end (but potentially very good exercise!). That being said, if it’s already sort of rotten, don’t get your hopes up. Probably has powder post beetles of some description in it too (or will get them as it dries) and they’re a pain to deal with. You said it’s boxwood-if it’s real boxwood (usually grown as a hedge) with hard, yellowish kind of wood it can actually be quite valuable. If it’s boxelder which is a species of maple, it’s pretty much garbage to start with. Some wood is worth trying to turn into lumber-most is best as firewood. But post pics either way.
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Jan 27, 2020 20:15
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I’m working on a new desk, the surface is a laminated oak panel, and I had a question around sanding/staining. Bare in mind this is my first real effort at doing anything like this, so please explain like I’m 5 because I may as well be. I sanded the surface back with 120 sandpaper on an orbital, and it worked well, then did the same again with a 240- then gave it a wipe down with a damp cloth, where immediately fibers jumped up. Sure no problem I knew to expect that. But after 3 more sandings with 240 and wipe downs, I’d still get fibers. I eventually said gently caress this and used a dry brush to get the wood dust off, is that something I can remedy or is it just part of woodworking life? My other question pertained to staining. I mixed a little oak stain with a matte timber seal, and it worked a treat on the table top, but stupidly I allowed a little amount to drip down the sides of the panel - and, as it dried at different rates before I could stain the sides, you can tell there’s some light marking. I took to the sides with 240 paper afterwards, but as I thought the stain is deeper than the grit will reach. Is this just a ‘yep you done goodfed’ and learn to mask it off next time? Thanks!
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Jan 27, 2020 20:30
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Yeast posted:I’m working on a new desk, the surface is a laminated oak panel, and I had a question around sanding/staining. Moisture will raise grain, yes. Get a tack cloths aka shammy rags from your paint or hardware store. You can bust down raised fibers again after staining with some high grit wet-dry paper or steel wool. As for the drips, you might be able to dilute it out with a combination of thinner and sanding, but either way you're in lesson-learned territory, I think.
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Jan 27, 2020 20:55
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Hand-milling wood reminds me of sawmill pits. Huge, two-person saws and elaborate "jigs" (if you can call a pit a jig), because it's so much work to mill wood by hand that it's worth investing a significant amount of time/money/effort in anything that can make it easier. My advice would be to pick one log to try to mill yourself, but go ahead and find someone with a bandsaw or an Alaka mill to do the rest for you. You'll get plenty of exercise from one log. And you don't want to wait too long to mill the wood; it's more prone to cracking before it's been cut and stickered.
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Jan 27, 2020 21:01
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I've been working on an egg grill table for a while. Just wanted some opinions on the top. The wood is all cedar. I used treated for everything except the panels. The top was kind of a mess due to warping of the 2x6s. I planed the top close to even then sanded the rest of the way. This took off way more of the wood than the base. I didn't have access to a planer at that point so it was just sanding so it stayed pretty dark since I didn't go too deep on the sanding and liked the more rustic look since it's going to my cabin. When I put a coat of stain on the top it's obviously lighter than the rest and different than the panels since those weren't treated, just planks. You guys think it looks ok as is (still needs one more coat of stain but it won't darken much if any) or should I purchase a darker stain for the top. I'm kind of torn both ways.   
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Jan 27, 2020 22:59
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I quite like the lighter top, it looks intentional to me, as if you were using a different wood as a countertop, and you have a different color for the paneling too so it doesn't stand out/contrast too much compared to the rest of the piece. I'd be cautious about putting food directly on normal pressure-treated lumber, though, so you know... don't treat it like a butcher block or something. I don't think the chemicals they use are food-safe.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:26
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I like the light top as well. Do they make a matte finish spar? Might mitigate the problems with the pressure treated wood but not sure how that will hold up to heat near the egg tho.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:31
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Finished up another overdone shop project. This time for the miter saw I don't really like all that much.     Still loving this silly carcass design and the extra silly thru-boxjoint drawers. I think this is the 4th thing I've made like this and it looks cool (for a shop, at least) and it's strong. Also fun. Also, thieved, 3d printed handles because it's a great use case and I hate making handles. I also hate buying handles. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 23:50 on Jan 27, 2020 |
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Jan 27, 2020 23:47
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Leperflesh posted:I quite like the lighter top, it looks intentional to me, as if you were using a different wood as a countertop, and you have a different color for the paneling too so it doesn't stand out/contrast too much compared to the rest of the piece. I'd be cautious about putting food directly on normal pressure-treated lumber, though, so you know... don't treat it like a butcher block or something. I don't think the chemicals they use are food-safe. Definitely not placing food directly on there. I was thinking about making a larger cutting board or getting a scrap piece of quartz to use for food, especially so it doesn't stain.
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Jan 27, 2020 23:49
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Hypnolobster posted:Finished up another overdone shop project. This time for the miter saw I don't really like all that much. The tiniest of miter stations  no wonder you don't like it.In the same vain Here is my "sanding cart" I recently finished. A bit more utilitarian but its solid and does the job. 3d printed Cord wrap on the backside.  
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Jan 27, 2020 23:59
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wandler20 posted:Definitely not placing food directly on there. I was thinking about making a larger cutting board or getting a scrap piece of quartz to use for food, especially so it doesn't stain. Sounds good, and that will further break up the large area of lighter color on the top. I'm honestly jealous, I wish I had a BBQ setup like that (currently just using an old weber kettle grill plus a kind of crappy smoker that was given to me for free). But I have like ten woodworking projects queued up already.
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Jan 28, 2020 00:05
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JEEVES420 posted:The tiniest of miter stations Yeah, it's intended to just exist to hold the saw table at bench-height so I can build taller, normal cabinets and install them on either side of it to actually be the rest of the "station." I'll likely end up building some carcasses that just hang out without drawers for a while since I really need to actually build like.. furniture. also  shop projects and 3d printing
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Jan 28, 2020 00:16
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JEEVES420 posted:The tiniest of miter stations Nice cart and sander!
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Jan 28, 2020 00:18
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So a few of you may remember all the way back to last year, I went to the Oakland Museum's White Elephant Preview sale and scored a bunch of woodworking stuff, and I went again this year. I had different goals in mind for what to loot, and I'll take some pictures to share maybe tomorrow, but I'm all excited about a thing so I'll preview it for you in particular. Have you guys ever heard of an "expansive bit"? NO? WELL: https://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/expansive-bits/ https://www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/expansive-bits/what-are-the-parts-of-an-expansive-bit This is how these guys are designed (stealing images from that wonkeedonkeetools site):   I got three, all originally for use with a brace. An Irwin No. 22, a "C R Jennings" (model # unclear), and a Ludell that's had its square section of shank cut off so it could be used (probably dangerously) with a power drill. I paid $1 each! This is what the Irwin looks like, with its "micro dial" (not my photo):  it's a sweet little precision cutting tool for making holes of arbitrary diameter and I love it so very much. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 00:57
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Mr. Mambold posted:Moisture will raise grain, yes. Get a tack cloths aka shammy rags from your paint or hardware store. You can bust down raised fibers again after staining with some high grit wet-dry paper or steel wool. As for the drips, you might be able to dilute it out with a combination of thinner and sanding, but either way you're in lesson-learned territory, I think. Thank you! I really appreciate the tip 
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Jan 28, 2020 02:54
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Leperflesh posted:Have you guys ever heard of an "expansive bit"? I heard of them shortly after hearing a sharp bang and a shop manager shouting "YOU rear end in a top hat" across a makerspace while I was in another room. Everyone got remedial drill press instruction afterwards.
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Jan 28, 2020 05:12
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Leperflesh posted:So a few of you may remember all the way back to last year, I went to the Oakland Museum's White Elephant Preview sale and scored a bunch of woodworking stuff, and I went again this year. This is neat
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Jan 28, 2020 12:04
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That Works posted:Flush twice imo always do Leperflesh posted:So a few of you may remember all the way back to last year, I went to the Oakland Museum's White Elephant Preview sale and scored a bunch of woodworking stuff, and I went again this year. I used to have a super old one of these before I got robbed Harry Potter on Ice posted:Post a pic of the wood Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you really want to use it, I’d cut it into shorter (3-4’) logs and then saw those however you want, but the straighter the grain runs through a board, the more stable and less warpy the dried lumber. It’ll be sasier to handle smaller logs and should yield boards big enough for furniture scale stuff. Most handsaws you might buy for tree work are made for cross cutting aren’t going to handle ripping well and most woodworking handsaws for ripping aren’t going to handle green wood very well, so prepare for this to be a huge pain in the rear end (but potentially very good exercise!). Honestly I don't know if it's really boxwood, that's just something some other dumbass told me at one point. Boxelder sounds about right lol. It was pretty big, tree was taller than my house. After looking at the pieces more a lot of the weird whorls are all just on the surface but I still think it's kinda neat. There really is a substantial amount that is crapped out tho  This cut is from that mostly-naked branch that goes horizontally in the upper part of the pic  blurred out pic of some more average ones  I also have a shitload of other ones that I cut off and set aside and forgot to take pics of, that gnarly dump diagram is one and there's two or three others about the same size with it, along with idk like ten similar to the blurry pic I guess. Saw's just for scale. The dump one is probably as thick as my leg and if I were to lay in the dirt and stretch my arms up it'd be longer.
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Jan 28, 2020 13:27
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SniperWoreConverse posted:
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Jan 28, 2020 14:30
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Was going to say that is some great turning wood you got there. Couple of decent looking crotches and some thick trunks. The spalting and pink grain is much desired with turners.
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Jan 28, 2020 16:15
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JEEVES420 posted:Was going to say that is some great turning wood you got there. Couple of decent looking crotches and some thick trunks. The spalting and pink grain is much desired with turners. Absotively. That would be some real interesting poo poo to try to make furniture from also, try to incorporate the spalt.
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Jan 28, 2020 19:12
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SniperWoreConverse posted:always do A few suggestions from a fellow hand tool bound dead tree admiring goon: 1. Select pieces with crotch or other neat grain as your first priority for sawing. I did something similar with live oak. While that's harder than boxelder, just those section was enough to keep me in saw cardio an hour a day for weeks and weeks. Heck, just cross sawing into sections is going to be a huge amount of work. 2. Get a wedge and maul. Do you have a hatchet? That wood won't rive into neat boards. Those guys on Youtube doing that with wedges, mauls, and hewing axes are picking the best tree out of dozens to get the right grain for that purpose. But it likely will split more or less in half. That, in turn, halves the work you need to do with a hand saw. In fact, the thicker parts are going to jam your hand saw with dust and make sawing even harder. Riving into halves (and probably quarters) is your friend here. It's also a lot of fun. Once you have it in quarters you just start sawing the longest "board" out of each quarter, then again with the longest board on the remaining piece. 2A. Try riving down to a few 1-2" square pieces if you don't find crazy twist. This makes great legs. 3. I'd suggest adding two to four quarters to your "I want this board to be" dimension to account for the warp and cup that's going to inevitably come with drying. Think that your board dimension is what is left after you plane out the warp. Thick wood that's perfect can always be resawn. Thin wood that's crazy warped is firewood. Or sculpture. I dunno. 5. Accept that this is a silly project and the value is in the activity, not the product.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:28
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Leperflesh posted:So a few of you may remember all the way back to last year, I went to the Oakland Museum's White Elephant Preview sale and scored a bunch of woodworking stuff, and I went again this year. Oh hey, I know what those are! I've got a couple plus the original box from my great-grandfather.   And the old auger they go with. Anytime I need a large recessed hole I try to use these over a drill. It's extremely satisfying to use and has wonderful results. 
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Jan 28, 2020 23:05
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Yup I grabbed a brace last year on a whim (I think it was all of $5) without realizing they require those square shanks on the bits, so this year I was looking for bits. And the only ones I found were a couple of severely trashed ones, plus these three expansive bits.
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Jan 28, 2020 23:39
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I've been woodworking seriously for a couple of years, so I decided to spring for a sawstop. It's cheaper than my medical insurance deductible. So I'm going to get rid of my old saw, and I'm not sure if I should sell it or part it out. It's a very old 1HP Craftsman 113 with the heavy cast iron wings, never sanded, rust free. I've added a Delta T3 30 inch rip fence, PALS trunion adjusters, dust collection under the box, and a link belt. It's very solid, runs smoothly, and is dialed in to cut about as well as any saw could. But it has zero safety features, and is ancient. Do you think I should just sell the fence separately ($165 new)? Do you imagine anyone pay $300 for a craftsman 113 no matter what fancy poo poo was bolted to it?
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Jan 30, 2020 23:43
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Offer it for a price you'd sell it at and see if you get any takers, and then if you don't, you'll know. (Price is gonna be highly reflective of local demand for that sort of thing.)
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Jan 30, 2020 23:48
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Those saws are all over Dallas craigslist ranging from $50 dollars for rust to $350 for decent looking ones. Like Leper said, throw it up for what you want for it and then wade through the lowballs till someone bites.
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Jan 31, 2020 00:09
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I had the most wonderful dream last night that a neighbor had crammed a lumberyard into their back yard, and was willing to give away slabs in exchange for minor amounts of assistance. And not just any slabs -- perfectly straight and clear, 3' wide, 20' long, and the species looked to be some kind of mahogany. Rarely have I ever felt so disappointed to wake up. 
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Feb 1, 2020 15:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I had the most wonderful dream last night that a neighbor had crammed a lumberyard into their back yard, and was willing to give away slabs in exchange for minor amounts of assistance. And not just any slabs -- perfectly straight and clear, 3' wide, 20' long, and the species looked to be some kind of mahogany. Lmao I'm jealous that sounds amazing
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Feb 1, 2020 15:48
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Ordered an old Sheffield Steel mortising chisel off eBay and I really should have done this ages ago. It makes me want to replace all my chisels with other good quality ones. Not that I really need that many, but it cuts so much better and takes out more.
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Feb 1, 2020 16:40
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I made a grooving plane  it's mahogany (I think?), a hickory wedge, and a harbor freight 1/4" chisel. Haven't decided how or if I'm gonna add a fence tho. Elder Postsman fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Feb 2, 2020 |
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Feb 2, 2020 00:55
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I got my lathe the other day and it's in terrible condition, so I'm palming it off on gumtree for $100. Already sold pending pickup within 18h of advertising it. It's a shame, but it basically needs sandblasting, repainting, and a full refurbish of the bearings etc. It's sat in a shed for the best part of 20 years that was definitely not weather proof  but it's no drama, when I have more suitable space for one I'll go hunting for one in better condition (this one was free and I sold it for $100, so I'll call that a win)
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Feb 2, 2020 04:41
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OK as promised, here's all the stuff I got at the white elephant sale last weekend.  In most cases I've done nothing but take pictures, I've done no restoration, I did adjust a plane because its frog was misaligned and preventing the blade from being withdrawn but otherwise this is how everything came. First up: this is the first thing I grabbed, it was $45 and I thought it was a really fancy old shoulder plane when I grabbed it.  It says Stanley Rule & Level Co. on the main stock and Stanley 45 on the outside fence   So, turns out it's a Stanley No. 45 Combination Plane. The japanning, placement of the rosewood knob on the main stock, and lack of an adjustment knob for the cutting blade all indicate it's from ~1890s. Unfortunately, the outside fence is not a matching piece - it's also japanned, so it's within a handful of years (after 1899 Stanley switched to nickel plating for it's No 45s), but it has a knob on the fence. At some point in the 1890s Stanley moved the knob from the main stock to the fence, to allow the user to apply side pressure to the fence more easily; having two knobs proves it's not a matched set. I've read that many users dropped and broke the cast iron fence, so replacing them was common. But that's not the worst part. What I didn't realize when I grabbed is that these combination planes had a third, center rail; you added or removed it depending on the operation and the width of the plane iron being used. I didn't see one at the sale, it could have been tucked away or something, but regardless I haven't got one. The plane has one narrow blade mounted; originally they came with at least 18 and as many as 25+ blades and add-on parts in a box, and they're all gone. As it sits, it's usable for operations with the narrowest blades, and I can presumably track down more: although when Stanley added the adjustment knob for the blades, they also changed the blades to have a notch for the adjuster to grab, so this plane I think won't work with notched blades. If I wanted to restore this plane it'd cost me probably a couple hundred bucks in eBay parts. So we'll see. It's a beautiful little machine but not what I was hoping to have. Oh well, moving on! This here is a sweet little E&J No. 4 plane:    It's my first non-American plane, it has a Sheffield iron, and it looks to be in very good condition. The handles are intact and not cracked or split, the iron is usable without much tuning, and I haven't had it apart yet but it looks pretty great. I already have a Union No. 4 but its blade is hosed up so if I can get this one operational that'd be really nice. I grabbed this saw on a whim  It's made in Portugal, the teeth are OK but could use some sharpening, and this side looks nice but the other side has some surface rust. Doesn't look pitted so I think I can clean it up easily with some emory or maybe steel wool. I needed to learn how to sharpen a saw anyway, right? Smith & Hawken still exists as a brand, although they don't make anything resembling this saw any more. Google is not turning up anything on a Smith & Hawken Prestige saw, so who knows? I'll need to do some more research. Here we have a rather more decrepit little plane:   It was only $15, presumably because of the broken handle. I haven't had it apart yet, there's no branding that I can see other than on the iron:  I can't quite make that out other than the words New Brunswick at the bottom , I'll need to clean off some corrosion. Handles for these planes are generally pretty similar and I think I can get or make a replacement one easily. It seems salvageable, anyway. Here's my brace bits:  I've already talked about these sweet adjustable bits.  It's interesting to see how each of the three works a little differently.  Irwin #22  German-made Ludell,  And I dunno if you can make it out but this one is stamped C E Jennings. This large No. 7 jack plane is a bit of a puzzler.  As you can see, the body is cast with Bailey, but the iron cap is Stanley.  It's quite rusty, although not deeply pitted. Will need a vigorous workover with sandpaper etc.  I went ahead and took off the cap and iron so I could look at the frog...  And interestingly, the left/right adjuster is also stamped Stanley. So, is it Stanley hardware that's been slapped onto a non-matching Bailey plane body, or was it originally sold this way? I'll have to look that up. Anyway the only plane I have approaching this size right now is an old-style wooden one, this one I intend to actually clean up and use. I'm excited about this Palmer draw knife  It has folding handles!  You loosen the wingnuts and then you can rotate the handles out 90 degrees. It has these keyed notches set into the handles and the blade so they lock down tight and won't rotate in use. It needs sharpening but is otherwise in excellent condition, should take me ten minutes to get the blade sharp and then it's immediately ready for use. Check out this teeny little plane!    The iron is stamped Stanley Rule & Level Co., which suggests it's Really Old, but I haven't taken it apart and there's a good chance the iron isn't matching to the plane. I haven't spotted any markings on the plane yet. This rasp was marked "new old stock" and it certainly seems brand new.  It's from Sweden, C.O. Öberg & Co., Eskilstuna. It was $6 which seems extremely reasonable. There was a little spoon rasp I also grabbed there next to it, cheap, I think it's just typical cheapo new make kind of thing, but I wanted to try one in this shape out before buying a good one. This dainty little ball peen is marked "PLUMB"  The handle has a lot of wear, I might replace it. You can see this gouge in the first pic, this closeup was just to try and make out the stamp  It's heavily stamped and dirty and the photo is upside-down so I can't quite make it out. The tip of the gouge has been modified a little, so I'll have to play around with it. What I didn't notice when I grabbed it was that the handle is split:   So either I'll put a collar on it, or just replace the handle. If I bother. Although I paid $8 and I'm thinking that's not such a bargain. Finally I have this little nail set:  It's marked Stanley 11 3/4 - 1/32. I don't own a nail set and I saw it so I snagged it, so now I own a nail set. Hmm, how do you use a nail set, again?
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Feb 2, 2020 06:46
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Nice grabs. That Jack plane will probably get a lot of use. I followed a Paul Sellers YouTube vid on saw sharpening and picked it up right away. It should be within your grasp if you have even basic tool skills and a saw file.
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Feb 2, 2020 13:25
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Nice haul! The iron on your mystery $15 plane with the broken handle definitely says NEW BRITAIN, CONN not New Brunswick. The mark is something & something co-nothing is ringing a bell for me but maaaaaybe RULE & LEVEL? It does look like there is a small Y at the end above that line for STANLEY. It’ll probably be clearer after you clean it up a bit. I think the gouge is D. R. BARTON CO. of Rochester, NY. I have a big 2” shipwrights firmer gouge of theirs that’s I’ve modified to be my favorite roughing gouge on the lathe. E:very similar gouge https://www.jimbodetools.com/products/1-2-x-9-inch-d-r-barton-vee-gouge-81303 Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Feb 2, 2020 |
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Feb 2, 2020 14:00
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