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I think I was just using my multimeter wrong. It would start at .6 amps, and then drop down to .05 amps. So I was just measuring the current at different times. Is that a thing?
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Feb 19, 2020 00:41
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Big Dick Cheney posted:I think I was just using my multimeter wrong. It would start at .6 amps, and then drop down to .05 amps. So I was just measuring the current at different times. Is that a thing? Edit: this was with the probe in the "10A" plug. Edit quote is not edit
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Feb 19, 2020 00:42
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Big Dick Cheney posted:Edit: this was with the probe in the "10A" plug. Absolutely a thing. When you first make contact, you’re closing the circuit to a car that hasn’t had any electrical power. After a quick system check, the ecu starts turning systems back off and draws increasingly less current. Checking parasitic drain like that takes some serious patience (or strong fingers)- some systems in modern cars can take 10 minutes or more before they fully sleep.
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Feb 19, 2020 02:10
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glyph posted:Absolutely a thing. Very often a LOT more than 10 minutes on newer cars and electronics heavy luxobarges since even the 90s. This is why I use a DC clamp meter for testing of this sort.
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Feb 19, 2020 02:22
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StormDrain posted:Your best bet is Iron Planet for used armored vehicles, cost wise. Still going to be a logistical challenge taking receipt and registering, and you'll need an aftermarket radio for car play. Shouldn't depreciate much more than it has already, depending on what kind of damage you take. SDC or MDC?
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Feb 19, 2020 03:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Depreciation is never consistently some X/yr thing and to some extent it's irrelevant. If you think you won't need a car in two years, don't buy a car or buy one further along in its depreciation cycle. If you think you'll need to sell the car to get access to the money you spent on purchasing it, put more money in savings and buy a cheaper car. Best way to offset depreciation IMO is to put the theoretical depreciation cost each month and put it straight into savings (and better, into some good index fund or something). Also, for any Euro goons that need an armoured vehicle: https://mortarinvestments.eu/
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Feb 19, 2020 06:15
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Motronic posted:Very often a LOT more than 10 minutes on newer cars and electronics heavy luxobarges since even the 90s. And often the doors have to remain shut for the entire time, can't be unlocked or locked remotely, etc. I had to disable the auto timeout on my fluke so I could shut it in the vehicle and still see the display. Stupid F350 GEM modules...
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Feb 19, 2020 13:20
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Somebody clipped my parked car. They left an apologetic note with their insurance info. I've taken photos and I'm going to grab a quick video before I call the insurance company, but is there anything else I should do to minimize my chances of getting hosed? Police report? I'm not worried about the person contesting the claim, I'm just worried about the insurance company's efforts to avoid paying for things.
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Feb 19, 2020 19:59
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Steely Dad posted:Somebody clipped my parked car. They left an apologetic note with their insurance info. I've taken photos and I'm going to grab a quick video before I call the insurance company, but is there anything else I should do to minimize my chances of getting hosed? Police report? I'm not worried about the person contesting the claim, I'm just worried about the insurance company's efforts to avoid paying for things. Your insurance company should be your first call. You’re paying them to be your ally.
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Feb 19, 2020 20:01
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eddiewalker posted:Your insurance company should be your first call. You’re paying them to be your ally. The only thing to mention is that they may ask if you want to pay your deductible first and have them chase the other party down for it. The alternative is for you to chase their insurance on your own. It could be risky if the person ends up not admitting to it, but assuming the phone number works and isn't some random one you should be golden. Some people are shady as hell and will leave notes with fake numbers just to show other passersby they are owning up to it.
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Feb 19, 2020 20:46
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And this only works if you carry collision insurance. Hit and runs in TX are covered under UM/UIM, but if they've left contact info, it turns into a collision claim with subrogation. And if you don't have collision, welp, your insurance won't lift a finger.
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Feb 19, 2020 21:16
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I've got about a dozen of these pebble sized chips on my hood. I see rust. What would be my best course of action?
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Feb 19, 2020 21:27
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For my van, I tell my mechanic to hit it with a wire brush and some cold-galvanizing zinc paint. Takes about 5 minutes and they don't even bother charging me for it. But I don't care about dime-size spots of silver paint on my 20 year old blue van. YMMV.
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Feb 19, 2020 22:33
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Yeah, the fix heavily depends on how much you care about the car. You definitely need to fix the rust and the bare rough paint edge - the rust will grow and get worse, the edge of the paint will let the paint continue to peel. For my rock crawler, I do basically the same as ryanrs. For a nice car, you'd have to get the paint repaired/corrected. If it's a NEW car, they may be able to do local/spot repairs, if it's aged at all, it'll be bigger/more expensive.
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Feb 19, 2020 22:44
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ryanrs posted:For my van, I tell my mechanic to hit it with a wire brush and some cold-galvanizing zinc paint. Takes about 5 minutes and they don't even bother charging me for it. I'll do it myself if possible. I already have the color paint for the car. zaepg fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 23:20
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The Ammo NYC youtube channel has a fair number of videos on how to do paint chip repair. The short version is that you rough up the surface, add paint, sand flush, cut & polish.
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Feb 19, 2020 23:22
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Thanks!
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Feb 19, 2020 23:23
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Anyone know how the latest (2010-2019) taurus SHOs are, reliability wise? Saw one with 40k miles for 12k. Awd and 365hp seems like it could be fun. http://showroom.auction123.com/towne_motors_inc/inventory/10987/2010/Ford/Taurus/1FAHP2KT1AG113309.html
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Feb 20, 2020 14:55
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I had to use my battery booster for the first time today and it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the advice I received here when looking around for one.
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Feb 20, 2020 20:00
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Can anyone recommend a good 12v USB adapter? Specifically one that has rfi protection of some sort. I finally figured out that my current one is creating rfi which interferes with my tpms system. It’s a 2012 f150. The adapter I’m using now is a cheap one I got at a gas station.
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Feb 20, 2020 21:29
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Mine doesn't appear to be for sale anymore. I usually trust Wirecutter. https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-usb-car-charger/
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Feb 20, 2020 22:04
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Anker stuff is pretty decent, aukey also seems ok.
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Feb 20, 2020 22:11
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Somehow my car got a scratch across the entire width of the hood (it looks like it got keyed by an orangutan), with spots that are clearly down to primer, and other spots that will probably buff out. The scratches are pretty narrow, so what's the best way to try and fix them myself? I've heard good things about using Dr Colorchip, but have also read that it doesn't fill scratches well, so I'm thinking my best option at this point is a paint pen. Any advice for what I should be getting?
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Feb 20, 2020 22:26
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deratomicdog posted:Can anyone recommend a good 12v USB adapter? Specifically one that has rfi protection of some sort. I finally figured out that my current one is creating rfi which interferes with my tpms system. edit: Also, I finally figured this out from a year ago: wolrah posted:The combination of my OBD2 dongle (one of those $15 transparent blue ELM327 compatible ones from Amazon) and radar detector (Passport 8500 X50) will drain a battery to the point where it can't crank in less than a week if it's cold out. I work from home so it happens from time to time that I don't start my car for days and I had to get a trickle charger to keep from killing batteries. The issue was that sometimes Torque wouldn't disconnect from the adapter when I left the car. My house is a split level so my bedroom is right above the garage, and my phone would basically spend all night connecting to the adapter and trying in vain to query the ECU in every possible way. I'm now trying to figure out how to use Tasker to automatically kill Torque if it loses connection to my infotainment system. wolrah fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 20, 2020 23:35
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2004 Corolla LE, U.S. model. Is it possible to add cruise control to this model? I don't know if it has electronic throttle, I'm hoping my friend sends me an engine bay pic. Mazdas that had electric throttle sometimes you can just add the steering wheel buttons.
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Feb 21, 2020 07:09
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Charles posted:2004 Corolla LE, U.S. model. Is it possible to add cruise control to this model? I don't know if it has electronic throttle, I'm hoping my friend sends me an engine bay pic. Mazdas that had electric throttle sometimes you can just add the steering wheel buttons. I think you may be SOL, my Vibe (Toyota Matrix twin, same mechanically as the Corolla) is DBW, but its a 2005 and IIRC is the first year. The 2004's were cable operated. e: just looked it up, yeah, 2004 is cable operated. So it can be added but it's going to be much more involved than throwing a stalk on there.
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Feb 21, 2020 17:28
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Charles posted:2004 Corolla LE, U.S. model. Is it possible to add cruise control to this model? I don't know if it has electronic throttle, I'm hoping my friend sends me an engine bay pic. Mazdas that had electric throttle sometimes you can just add the steering wheel buttons. They got electronic throttle in 2005, so... you can, but it's a ~$300 janky aftermarket kit that directly actuates the throttle body. 2005+ is mostly just a matter of adding the switch. e;f;b by opengl  wolrah posted:The issue was that sometimes Torque wouldn't disconnect from the adapter when I left the car. My house is a split level so my bedroom is right above the garage, and my phone would basically spend all night connecting to the adapter and trying in vain to query the ECU in every possible way. I'm now trying to figure out how to use Tasker to automatically kill Torque if it loses connection to my infotainment system. Pull the adapter unless you're driving every day. The OBD2 port always has power, and the adapter will sit there looking for a bluetooth connection. I've had just the adapter drain my battery enough that the car wouldn't start after 2 days (granted, weak battery, but still).
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Feb 21, 2020 18:31
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What is a truckbed liner that doesn't suck and that I don't need a professional installation for? 100 pages back I remember someone said Rustoleum sucks but I can't find the post again. I just want to sand down a slightly rusty F150 bumper and refresh it. edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWFIwJUSo6c Think I'll give PlastiKote a try. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 19:04
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STR posted:Pull the adapter unless you're driving every day. The OBD2 port always has power, and the adapter will sit there looking for a bluetooth connection. I've had just the adapter drain my battery enough that the car wouldn't start after 2 days (granted, weak battery, but still). I plug the car in to a trickle charger if I know I won't be using it for more than two days, I was just for the longest time trying to figure out why it could be fine for literally weeks if I went on vacation but then sometimes "randomly" drained so low the infotainment system wouldn't even run overnight.
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Feb 21, 2020 22:04
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wolrah posted:I plug the car in to a trickle charger if I know I won't be using it for more than two days, I was just for the longest time trying to figure out why it could be fine for literally weeks if I went on vacation but then sometimes "randomly" drained so low the infotainment system wouldn't even run overnight. I mean, I don't know why I would want a wifi/Bluetooth accessible odb reader to be available at all times in my car at all. I plug mine in when needed and remove after. Is there something specific you need it for?
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Feb 22, 2020 00:35
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`Nemesis posted:I mean, I don't know why I would want a wifi/Bluetooth accessible odb reader to be available at all times in my car at all. I plug mine in when needed and remove after. Is there something specific you need it for? I get it. But I leave mine in all the time and here's why: I have replaced the radio with what is basically an android tablet. I have gauges that show up on it based on ODB2 PIDs. Necessary? No. But I can understand the use case.
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Feb 22, 2020 00:41
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Motronic posted:I get it. Absolutely, that makes sense. I probably didn't express my thoughts fully cause I was wondering if there was maybe a better way to do what was needed.
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Feb 22, 2020 01:18
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Change the +Battery wire on the OBDII connector to a switched 12V line controlled by the ignition.
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Feb 22, 2020 16:49
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`Nemesis posted:I mean, I don't know why I would want a wifi/Bluetooth accessible odb reader to be available at all times in my car at all. I plug mine in when needed and remove after. Is there something specific you need it for? ryanrs posted:Change the +Battery wire on the OBDII connector to a switched 12V line controlled by the ignition.
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Feb 22, 2020 18:34
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I am selling a car for a recent widow. A prospective buyer has asked for the name on the title. They are in NC, I am in the opposite end of VA. The only legit reason I can think of is for a possible loan from a bank. Should I just write them off as a scammer or is this common?
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Feb 23, 2020 22:24
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I don't see why who is named on the title matters for a loan, or anything else. What matter is "do you have a clear title", and if the answer is "yes" that's sufficient. If there is a lien on the title you should be making buyers aware as that's a complication for a private sale.
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Feb 23, 2020 22:40
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Nah, we have the title free and clear. 2010 WRX hatch with 105k if anyone is interested. Pax side rear door is dinged good, drives fine. Needs a timing belt service.
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Feb 23, 2020 22:53
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Don't give the name, especially if they already have the VIN.
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Feb 24, 2020 00:07
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What is bad about someone having the VIN AND name?
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Feb 24, 2020 05:28
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I bought a 2017 Colorado Z71 and I'm about to sell it with 24k miles on the clock. I've had two strand-able (if not for me carrying extra fluids) events, one coolant hose related, one oil cooler hose related, and another slow coolant leak related to the first hose problem. It is now leaking oil again, slowly. Sucks, because I enjoyed the truck when it was working. Is the Tacoma the only choice for someone with midsize truck reliability PTSD? My wife may literally kill me if we have another unplanned roadside stop. I was thinking new, if so.
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Feb 24, 2020 06:17
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