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Someone in my neighborhood is giving away 110yo oak subfloors on Nextdoor
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Feb 26, 2020 19:44
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Let me guess, they require you remove them?
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Feb 26, 2020 19:54
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SpartanIvy posted:Let me guess, they require you remove them? MUST TAKE ALL!!!!! That's always been the bane of trying to get even halfway decent free stuff. Someone has a pile from their dead uncle's garage, there's like 2 decent things, but they won't "part them out."
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Feb 26, 2020 20:22
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There was a lady selling a used ceiling fan on FB marketplace for $30 and when I offered to come get it she told me I had to bring my own tools and uninstall it first.  I told her I'd do it if she took $20 but she said $30 was as low as shed go and that she had other people waiting, so I told her I wasn't interested. That listing was up for at least a month before it was marked as sold.
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Feb 26, 2020 20:35
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Please pay me to work on my house. Related my buddy for some reason wants these stained glass windows which follow a pitch I a roof and fit a verrry spesific space.. well they're not down. If he wants them he needs to pay for right to pay a contractor to pull them out.
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Feb 26, 2020 21:26
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Just had roofers finish up installing my new roof, and while using some mineral spirits to remove some oil from a vent cap, they accidentally spilled some on the asphalt shingles creating a discolored spot that's not going away very fast/at all. How big of a deal is this? The inspector said if it stays discolored or I'm otherwise displeased they'll reshingle that area. Is there any issues with reshingling? Luckily it's just below the top line of the roof. e: photo. Of course the shadow happens to be right over it 
SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 22:16
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SpartanIvy posted:Let me guess, they require you remove them? Nah, they're just there in a pile. I mostly posted becaues they look fine and I have no idea why they'll pulling out 100 year old lumber that's in good condition. I've been specifically told the stuff under my house is awesome and to never replace what I don't have to.
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Feb 27, 2020 02:09
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Cat piss
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Feb 27, 2020 02:20
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i like nice words
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I am running Ethernet throughout my house. The wall plates I am installing are not quite flush with the wall. What am I doing wrong and how can I get them to sit perfectly flat against the wall behind them? Edit: to be clear, they stick out only a tiny bit - maybe the thickness of one or two credit cards. It's purely cosmetic. I haven't installed wall plates before so I don't know if this is normal - but I do know that the professionally installed wall plates already in the house are all flush. Chimp_On_Stilts fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Feb 27, 2020 |
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Feb 27, 2020 08:52
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What are you using for rings or boxes? Alot of the stuff that clamps to the drywall ends up adding 1/8 inch offset due to the plastic tabs that hold onto the finished side of the wall.
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Feb 27, 2020 14:19
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I'm guessing you are using the nicer, nylon, unbreakable covers? Flip it over and see if the screw holes aren't mini plastic tubes. Slice them off with a box cutter / razor blade and see if it won't sit a little flatter.
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Feb 28, 2020 05:48
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Is there a good guide for basic lighting design out there? I'm adding light to my garage (to use as a shop space) and I can't decide how many fixtures and how many lumens I need.
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Feb 29, 2020 05:37
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Literally 3-5 times as many as you think you need, with the ability to switch them in stages i.e. 1 in every group of 4 on each switch
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Feb 29, 2020 09:37
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House fire narrowly avoided.  God damnit it was the kids. I am home alone with them and I went out to get firewood, 5 minutes or so I was gone. When I get back the kids are standing by the door and crying. What the hell? They're crying and asking for mommy and I am wondering what the hell has happened? They say the bedroom is scary and other gibberish, but one blurts out the word fire and I instantly flip the gently caress out and dash first to the kids bedroom, not seeing anything but smelling smoke now in the living room. I run towards our bedroom and there's smoke in the air and holy poo poo there's smoke coming out of the drawer. And there's the lighter on top of the TV table. I flip out even more and I yank the drawer out so hard it breaks apart and that starts up the fire even harder. Oh drat now it smokes and the fire alarm goes off. In desperation I run for the cats water bowl (fortunately it's a huge 5 liter bowl) and pour it over the drawer and manage to put the fire out. gently caress. Been cleaning for hours now, having the doors open and fanning out as much air as possible and it's -10C outside, fortunately no damage except to the drawers of this lovely TV table we where going to throw away anyhow. And that's our new bed, we've slept it in for less than 4 days, drat close to catching fire and now it smells like paper smoke.
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Feb 29, 2020 10:54
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!!! omg you took care of that well.
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Feb 29, 2020 12:02
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I'm so glad that ended OK! Could've been so much worse, good reactions. If you ever needed the justification to invest in some fire extinguishers to dot around the place, now's the time. I've never had to use mine but having their is some peace of mind. How are your children coping with it?
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Feb 29, 2020 12:08
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The kids are IMO not taking it seriously enough, even though I went full metal jacket sergeant on them, I lectured them a good long while and then grounded them to their room while I was cleaning up. I'm definitely considering fire extuingishers, but at the same time I am glad I did not have a dry powder one at hand, because I would have ruined the new bed and everything else in the room if I used it. I'm wondering if CO2 extuingishers are worth getting and maybe a foam one too.
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Feb 29, 2020 12:50
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm definitely considering fire extuingishers, but at the same time I am glad I did not have a dry powder one at hand, because I would have ruined the new bed and everything else in the room if I used it. I'm wondering if CO2 extuingishers are worth getting and maybe a foam one too. I went dry powder mostly due to them being reasonably cheap and maintenance free, but I do see your point. For myself I'd rather ruin 5 figures' worth of equipment than spend 6 figures fixing a burnt out house, or dying. Ideally a middle ground would be nice but as a baseline I'll start with "gently caress it all up and live, maybe some of it survives".
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Feb 29, 2020 12:54
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I'm considering getting several types, after some quick research there seems to be water based ones, with an additive that makes it more effective than just water but is safe and not poisonous. So I am thinking one of those is a good idea for a first response and perhaps then I'll also have a powder and/or CO2 extuingisher as a backup if the water one can't deal with it. edit: Water mist extuingisher seems like a good first responder: https://www.safelincs.co.uk/ultrafire-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/ His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 29, 2020 12:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:edit: Water mist extuingisher seems like a good first responder: That does sound interesting. A "fun fact" is that when using water to extinguish fires it's the cooling effect of the water that puts them out, rather than the oxygen restriction. I can see a mist being even more effective at that.
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Feb 29, 2020 14:36
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They sound too good to be true, I'll have a chat with the technical H&S guy at work next week and get his opinion. Though if they're any good I can see getting a couple for the kitchen and garage.
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Feb 29, 2020 18:26
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If not I'll probably get a foam one as my first choice.
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Feb 29, 2020 18:32
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cakesmith handyman posted:They sound too good to be true, I'll have a chat with the technical H&S guy at work next week and get his opinion. You DO NOT WANT A PW IN A KITCHEN (pw = pressurized water can). They will absolutely make grease fires worse. You need a proper type K extinguisher in a kitchen (or go full on Ansul), and don't leave any PWs in reach in case someone else grabs for it. CO2 extinguishers are great especially for small liquid or electrical fires. But sometimes you just need an ABC dry chem, so that should be the base of the extinguishers in the rest of your house. In the situation HDS just had, a CO2 extinguisher is _NOT_ rated to put out that fire. It may have been small enough that it would have, but it's the wrong thing for the job. The PW is definitely rated for that kind of fire, and only that kind of fire (class A). Foam extinguishers are also not rated for class A fires. They are BC extinguishers, like the CO2.
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Feb 29, 2020 18:37
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The stuff I've read claims water mist extinguishers are rated for grease fires as well, and that they are very new on the market. I will get an ABC powder extinguisher but it will be the backup if foam doesn't work. I also wonder if we use different codes because foam extuingishers are rated AB here. Class A - fires involving solid materials such as wood, paper or textiles. Class B - fires involving flammable liquids such as petrol, diesel or oils. Class C - fires involving gases. Class D - fires involving metals. Class E - fires involving live electrical apparatus. (Technically ‘Class E’ doesn’t exists however this is used for convenience here) Class F - fires involving cooking oils such as in deep-fat fryers. https://www.marsden-fire-safety.co.uk/resources/fire-extinguishers
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Feb 29, 2020 18:45
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Whilst I absolutely respect your (Motronic) opinion on these matters that isn't a typical PW, it's a finer mist and approved (at least over here) for A, B and C. Sounds fine for the garage (workshop for wood and general DIY, not expecting a petrol fire), would that change your opinion?
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Feb 29, 2020 18:45
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cakesmith handyman posted:Whilst I absolutely respect your (Motronic) opinion on these matters that isn't a typical PW, it's a finer mist and approved (at least over here) for A, B and C. Sounds fine for the garage (workshop for wood and general DIY, not expecting a petrol fire), would that change your opinion? If it's different and rated in your system for the correct classe(s) of fire go for it. That's not a thing I've seen on this side of the atlantic. Remember, if you're cooling a fire to put it out all the steam has to go somewhere, often doing as much or more damage with the steam itself and smoke spread than smothering it (dry chem) in an enclosed space.
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Feb 29, 2020 18:49
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Motronic posted:If it's different and rated in your system for the correct classe(s) of fire go for it. That's not a thing I've seen on this side of the atlantic. Apparently it is but I've no experience so I'll speak to an expert. No idea on the other, thankfully my home firefighting experience is minimal and long may it remain that way.
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Feb 29, 2020 20:46
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Not that I cook with a lot of fat often, but I have a decent sized fire blanket in the kitchen for the traditional chip pan fire scenario. They're pretty cheap.
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Feb 29, 2020 22:00
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Some comparison tests (I think by the manufacturer so pinch of salt): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gNFD-z4hXXQ
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Feb 29, 2020 22:09
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Interesting, but the biggest problem I'm seeing there is how close they are. They're in gear: you won't be. I'd put that on a fire truck, but I'm not sure I'd want it as my only choice in a home if you have to be that close for it to be effective.
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Feb 29, 2020 22:16
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Jaded Burnout posted:Some comparison tests (I think by the manufacturer so pinch of salt): That F-class fire was a bit harrowing to watch even through my computer and knowing he had on a fire jacket + face shield. It's neat that it seems to be a seemingly universal solution, but you would need to be super confident in its use. Are there ones with UL ratings for use over on this side of the ocean? Buckeye seems to have one that's AC rated: https://www.grainger.com/product/BUCKEYE-Fire-Extinguisher-35WT25 Probably better for the general public given most people would grab an ABC for a oil fire anyways. Which reminds me I should get a fire blanket. His Divine Shadow posted:House fire narrowly avoided.  Good job for remaining calm cool and collected.
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Feb 29, 2020 23:45
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Last night I bought a foam extinguisher, it's AB and F rated. I kept reading and at least in Finland new types of foam that are effective on grease fires are now getting more common. It's rated 43A, 223B and 75F which based on looking at different 6 liter models was good for it's size. I also found a 2 liter small ABF foam extuingisher and am considering if I should buy one and place it in my shop, or if I should get an ABC. C is for gas fires but I have no gas in my shop except argon. Or maybe I should put the small one in the house and the big one in the shop. I found that TUKES (Finnish Safety and Chemicals Agency) tried a bunch of extuingishers on the market on a grease fire, here is the small model I was referring to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-JbBThP-3E&t=98s This is a government organization so no commercial interests, I saw they made one manufacturer recall their powder extinguishers because they didn't perform good enough.
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Mar 1, 2020 08:29
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I always get a sense of unease every time my construction workers cut through a load bearing engineered beam.
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Mar 3, 2020 23:42
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ntan1 posted:I always get a sense of unease every time my construction workers cut through a load bearing engineered beam. Yell “TIMBEERRRR!” every time they do it, it’s motivational.
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Mar 4, 2020 02:38
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Our house has a B-vent gas fireplace. It's currently disconnected and only good for letting drafts into the house, but hasn't caused us problems. It's been very rainy and windy here lately but that's nothing new for Prince Rupert. I was chilling at the computer when I heard a splash at the fireplace. I went to investigate and it appeared as though about a cup of water had come down on top of the fire box, on the outside of the b-vent, all at once.  Prior and since, I haven't heard any dripping. There are no signs of water damage in the immediate area. It doesn't appear as though there had been water in the fireplace recently. I scrambled up on to the roof but I didn't see any damage around the flashing or the top vent itself. I wasn't able to access the vent from inside the attic because the kiddos are in bed (and I'm not sure if I'll be able to reach it anyhow -- rancher style prefab with not much headroom). The only thing I noticed out of the ordinary is that an apparently separate vent on the roof is missing a cap. I don't think it's for the plumbing because it was a couple inches in diameter -- it looked identical to the pipe coming up beside it for the bathroom exhaust, just without a cap. However, I'm not sure what it's for because it's one more vent than there are things to be vented in that section of the house, by my count. My best guess is that water was pooled somewhere before it came down in a splash, but where or how I have no idea. It wasn't a steady leak as far as I could tell. Any ideas before I get a contractor involved? edit: Only other notable thing I can think of is that there's a shower on the other side of the wall that has the fireplace, but it wasn't running at the time. more pics:  
just another fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 07:50
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I think I posted about this a while ago: there's a spare storage room in our house which doesn't really serve any purpose and which my wife and I are trying to turn into a half-bath. The room itself is already tiled etc, we just need to install a toilet, a sink, and a door. The wall we'd be installing them along has the kitchen on the other side of it, which we figured would make this job easier because there's a sink and dishwasher in there already. We spent a while talking to plumbers, and the story we got from all of them was that the pipes they needed were probably in the wall between the kitchen and the spare room. We settled on a plumber who quoted us $2.5-3.5k to do the plumbing, but told us we'd also need to find a contractor to open up the walls for him, and close them back up again afterward. He recommended a guy, who came and saw the house, and quoted me $4000 to do this work. He seemed like a nice enough dude, but he barely even looked at the wall. Now, that number doesn't necessarily sound out-of-whack to me in a vacuum, but I was suspicious that this quote was higher than the one for the plumbing work, and again the guy barely looked at the room, so I decided I'd ask around for at least one other contractor to get a second opinion. My neighbor recommended me a guy, and he came by this morning. He took one look at the wall and told me there aren't any pipes in it. It was 7:30 AM and I was barely awake and feel like poo poo today for politics reasons anyway, so I just kind of stood there blinking for a few seconds, and he asked to see the basement. We went down there, and he pointed out the pipes that brought water to the kitchen sink, and the ones that carried it away afterward. They were all in the basement, not the wall. Basically he said that we COULD hire him to knock a big hole in the wall, but he didn't think it would be a wise investment on my part, because the wall doesn't have any pipes in it. The previous plumbers and contractor thought that the venting for the kitchen sink plumbing was also in the wall, and that this would be a crucial part of the half-bath plumbing, which makes sense. The guy I spoke to this morning did not see a vent in the basement pipes, and told me that rather than the vent being hidden in secret wall plumbing, that probably just meant the sink wasn't vented, because my house was old and that happens sometimes, and that this means the project at large probably isn't feasible at all because you can't keep hooking up new appliances to unvented plumbing without it getting hosed-up. The thing is: you can point at a pipe and tell me it does something, and I kind of just have to believe you, because I know gently caress-all about plumbing. I don't have any kind of clear memory of why all of the plumbers I talked to, or the first contractor, appeared to think the relevant pipes and the vent were in that wall. In short, I don't know which group of people is correct about how my house works, but I do not want to pay a man four thousand dollars to knock a hole in my wall if it's not gonna get me a new half-bath. So, my question is, how do I verify this? I really wish I could have someone I trusted, with no financial interest in me believing something about how my house works, verify for me whether there are pipes and a vent inside a wall in my house without destroying the wall, but my family is all office people so instead I'm posting about it. How do I determine the truth of my house?
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Mar 4, 2020 16:10
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loquacius posted:I really wish I could have someone I trusted, with no financial interest in me believing something about how my house works, verify for me whether there are pipes and a vent inside a wall in my house without destroying the wall, but my family is all office people so instead I'm posting about it. How do I determine the truth of my house? For this particular application, there are any number of cheap endoscope cameras that plug into your phone that will let you drill a relatively small and easily patchable hole into the wall and see what's inside. Also, if your wall is drywall and he needs to open up one set of stud bays, 4 grand seems crazy. But, if your current plumbing goes through the floor and into the basement, and is indeed not hooked into any vent stack, you're looking at a bigger project than just tapping into it in the wall. I've lived in and worked on 4 houses in my lifetime, and all of them had first floor plumbing that went directly through the floor into the basement (with the occasional exception of drains, which sometimes tap into a drain stack inside the wall). It's a lot less work to cut one hole in a sub-floor and run pipe through it than it is to go into a wall, cut through its bottom plate, THEN cut through the sub floor and go into the basement.
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Mar 4, 2020 16:27
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You should probably bring in a third contractor if you are uncertain and not confident enough in your plumbing knowledge or ability to confirm these things yourself, but assuming your basement is not finished and you can see into the ceiling/below the floor of your kitchen, it should not be hard to find your water supply lines and drain lines and follow where they go. If you need to, take measurements to determine if they're going up into a wall or are simply going up through the floor. It is probably easier to run new supply/drain lines up through the new bathroom floor anyway vs the wall but yeah, you might be hosed on the vent line unless you are prepared to run a new one up to your roof. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Mar 4, 2020 |
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Mar 4, 2020 16:35
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$4,000 to open up a small wall and then drywall it again sounds crazy high to me. You could do it yourself ten times over for cheaper than that and learn how to hang drywall and mud as you go. For comparison, I was quoted about $5000 to demo the lath and plaster, and then hang drywall on the walls and ceiling of a 10x20 room.
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Mar 4, 2020 17:06
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Yeah it says a lot that my initial reaction to hearing the $4k quote was "uh, is that including the $2.5k for plumbing, or" It also says a lot that the plumber who recommended him didn't even ask to see the basement, probably because he is fat and had trouble with my front porch stairs. He wasn't the first person to take the pipes-in-the-walls theory as a given, though, so I didn't think this was relevant at the time. Can someone ELI5 why we can't just put a vent on the basement pipes? The concept of why the pipes need venting in the first place has been thoroughly explained to me (an unvented pipe is like holding water inside a straw by blocking the top with your finger), but I know basically nothing about where vents can or cannot be installed. Going up through the roof or whatever isn't an option, as we live in a 2-unit condo and the other unit is above us. Even if we COULD, legally speaking, force them to permit a construction project in their home so I can have a half-bath, I wouldn't want to do that to them.
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Mar 4, 2020 17:37
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