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Yeah, I switched from improvised/homemade trellising for my raised beds last year. I got two of Gardener's Supply's Titan A-frame trellises, one for cukes/bitter melon and one for long beans. Had a bit of sticker shock from the price, but they're built like a tank and were easy to take down and store between growing seasons.
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Apr 13, 2020 22:12
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What a coincidence, I just bit the bullet and spent $200 on a cucumber trellis and several tomato towers from from Gardener Supply. I really looked into the cattle fencing options but it was hard to find ones that were the right dimensions so I wasn't ending up with too much waste, plus the transport and shopping around for the right stuff wasn't an exciting prospect right now. I probably could have saved $100 but gently caress it, amortized out over the decade or more these things will probably last it's peanuts. I lost half my tomato crop last year due to blowdowns be so good sturdy supports are worth it for me.
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Apr 13, 2020 22:33
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Shifty Pony posted:The year I aggressively pruned my tomatoes I got very little fruit, the years I haven't I have been so overloaded that I was grateful for the squirrels to take some away. There are a lot of factors involved here, some of which being (but not restricted to) tomato variety, growing climate, container vs soil bed, fertilizers/nutrients, and the subjective definition of "aggressive." Personally, I let my tomato plants go apeshit wild until they're growing above their cages and/or crowding their neighbors, then start cutting off unruly bits and overgrowth. It's not supposed to be a bansai plant so I suppose a gardener can get too aggressive, but once the plants are established they tend to grow really fast (for me). The vines will keep growing and putting out more flower sites until cut back, and tomato plants grow very predictably so it's easy to prune away the sun leaves and keep the flowering sites. I definitely agree that you'll wind up with more fruit overall if you don't prune, but that can come down to a personal call of quality vs quantity. When I used to let my garden grow feral, I had a lot of tomatoes but many of them wound up split, others rotted on the vine because I couldn't reach them, and I learned that whiteflies loving love it when your tomato plants are overgrown and touching each other with little room for air. Keeping my plants neatly pruned solves all of these problems for me. LogisticEarth posted:I lost half my tomato crop last year due to blowdowns be so good sturdy supports are worth it for me. What were you using for your tomatoes before? I religiously use tomato cages supplemented with bamboo stakes and the only issue I've ever had with them is not being tall enough. I'm not super familiar with tomato towers, but I do wonder why they cost several times more than a bog standard tomato cage from the hardware store. A Pack of Kobolds fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Apr 14, 2020 |
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Apr 14, 2020 00:21
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For trellis I still think powder coated U-post with Hortonova is the end all answer. I used it last season for tomatoes and it worked incredibly. Take it all down, let any weeds on it die out in the sun during the fall, and bam you've got another panel to use next spring.
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Apr 14, 2020 00:31
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willroc7 posted:My wife and I are planning on starting a garden and the idea of doing it indoors has been floated. We live in Ohio so most of the year the seems less than ideal for plant life. Does it make sense to do an indoor/hydro garden in this kind of climate? We aren't lacking in space either indoors or out, but we both have basically no gardening experience. I don't mind making an investment on a hydroponic setup if that will yield more year-round. My wife has already started some seedlings of peas and peppers indoors in soil, if that has any bearing on this. Could those be transferred to hydroponic? Ohio is Zone 5-6. If you have space outside you might want to check out the One Yard Revolution channel on YouTube. If I remember correctly he does year round gardening in somewhere in Zone 5 in a small back yard with shade issues. I can't really comment on hydroponics. I fiddled with some herbs and lettuce using it but went back to dirt.
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Apr 14, 2020 00:47
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A Pack of Kobolds posted:What were you using for your tomatoes before? I religiously use tomato cages supplemented with bamboo stakes and the only issue I've ever had with them is not being tall enough. I'm not super familiar with tomato towers, but I do wonder why they cost several times more than a bog standard tomato cage from the hardware store. I had a mix of 1x1" oak stakes, and the "sturdy stakes", some set up in three-stake cages. We had one storm that just flattened a few of the sturdy stake cages and snapped the oak right in half. My plants just got too big for them and the wind pressure just took it all over. The main reason I sprung for the towers was because all the cheap cages, even the taller ones were still too short after I factored in having enough of it anchored in the ground. The other main difference is that it's far more of a "cage" with many more crossmembers and heavier gauge wire. If you don't have high windstorms occasionally it might not be worth it. But we've been having really nasty thunderstorms blow through eastern PA the last couple years.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:29
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Hexigrammus posted:Ohio is Zone 5-6. If you have space outside you might want to check out the One Yard Revolution channel on YouTube. If I remember correctly he does year round gardening in somewhere in Zone 5 in a small back yard with shade issues. I very much prefer dirt. You should have plenty of time to grow outside this year, and it’s a lot more user friendly. I’ve been growing in Chicago the last few years and that’s plenty of time to grow all sorts of things. I have radishes and cool weather greens already growing now and you should be able to start peas outside very soon if not already. You can do hydro, but it has a lot of different problems associated with it in addition to just growing plants. It’s possible to start there, but does take a certain sort of attention to succeed at doing. There’s also a MI Gardener YouTube channel that’s also probably well suited to what you might need to start. Even though it’s a guy in Michigan, I’ve watched a few of them and they’re pretty well done.
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Apr 14, 2020 01:55
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So I started my tomato recovery plan yesterday. I started off by cutting the dead tops off and checking the buried vines - anything under even the tiniest bit of soil looked bright green and healthy. Solid rootball and around 18” of stem for each plant. I used some water soluble fertilizer and changed up the bottom portion my trellis to construct an ad hoc hoop house.  I’m going to give it around two weeks to see if there’s any new growth or if I have to bring in the JV team instead. Worst case scenario is that I have to clone a few plants but I should still be on time schedule wise. 
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Apr 14, 2020 15:35
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Put the juniors where the slackers can see them. Threats can be motivating.
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Apr 14, 2020 15:45
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Is there a hot pepper thread? Ordered a variety pack off etsy and starting the seeds in a mix of coco:perlite:compost or coco:vermiculite:worm castings and then planting them in a soil mixture to be determined. I'm starting them a bit late unfortunately, they take 5-6 months from seed to first harvest so I may get 1 fruit in before winter in Colorado. I'll eventually be looking into lights to overwinter the healthiest looking plants.
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Apr 15, 2020 05:15
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Hello again. To recap, my wife and I are gonna set up a little grow tent for strawberries, peas, potatoes, mint, parsley, or whatever other random inspires her. Reading about potting soil online is like watching a bunch of wizards yell spells at each other. Can any of y'all recommend a serviceable potting soil (or mix we should make) that we can grab from Home Depot or Lowe's?
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Apr 15, 2020 07:15
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 You could do worse than cactus, palm, and Citrus Soil. Why are those three types of plants on the label? It’s because they particularly hate wet feet, so it’s a well‐draining mix. Edible and fruiting plants that don’t like well‐draining soil are the exception. If you need to retain more moisture, add more peat moss. Big bags of this are cheap and light. It’s about half pine bark, finely ground, with the remainder being sand, perlite, and peat moss. That’s a pretty common mix. If I were making my own, I would leave out the sand. I don’t like sand for the reasons Anakin doesn’t and also because it gets heavy in big pots, and it’s not really doing anything that more perlite couldn’t. You could make your own mix from bags of the pure ingredients, but that’s more trouble than it’s worth at the scale of a grow tent. Vermiculite and pumice are other common ingredients. Pumice is rich man’s perlite. I use vermiculite in seed starting mix because it’s finely grained and has a good balance of retaining moisture and allowing drainage.
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Apr 15, 2020 09:22
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goodness posted:Is there a hot pepper thread? No hot pepper thread that I know of, and there’s a few of us in this one that grow hot and super hots. One thing I will say is that if you take care of your pepper plant it can live for years. For 120 day peppers, it’s usually recommended to start in about January or February so they have time to get large enough to go out in April or May. Regular potting soil is fine for peppers, but a lot of people will add Blood Meal to the bottom of the hole when they transplant. What did you get in your variety pack? I’ll be starting very late and probably just leave my superhots inside like house plants this year. But they’ll go outside next spring.
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Apr 15, 2020 13:25
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I had a fish pepper plant in a good size pot that I moved inside during the winter. That thing lived for like 3 years and fruited multiple times before it finally died. All of my seedlings are doing great. The heirloom tomatoes are all about 6 inches tall and sturdy at this point, the pepper plants are shorter but doing well. Except for my jalapeno seeds which I still havent gotten going after trying a new batch even. I may give up on them and just buy some transplants in May if I cant get any sprouts going. Also for people doing seed trays learn from my mistakes! I had one corner of my seed tray that the plants always seemed to wilt in. I figured I had a hot spot in my heating mat or something that was cooking the peppers. Well it turned out that actually that one corner gets hit pretty good by the sun during the day as its exposed to a Southern facing window. Now that I know that I've just been rotating the plants out of that corner. Basically I'm toughening them up and getting them acclimated to being outdoors when I can finally put them out there!
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Apr 15, 2020 13:58
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goodness posted:Is there a hot pepper thread? Closest you'll get is the Hot Sauce Thread in GWS. It's mostly about making hot sauce but a lot of people in there grow their own peppers. If you want advice on super-hots that's probably the best place on SA.
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Apr 15, 2020 14:38
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Speaking of peppers, none of mine (a mix of bell, jalapeno, and cayenne) have no sprouted at all. They're in those large, 36 "cell" planter trays, and I planted them at the same time as my tomatoes about a week and a half ago (planted them all on the 4th...late start, but hopefully I can still get some stuff off of them in late summer.) Almost all of my tomato seeds have sprouted and are all between 1-2" high, but not a peep from the peppers. Are they just slower to sprout? Been keeping all the little cells plenty moist and it's got a grow light on for 14 hours a day.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:13
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DrBouvenstein posted:Speaking of peppers, none of mine (a mix of bell, jalapeno, and cayenne) have no sprouted at all. They're in those large, 36 "cell" planter trays, and I planted them at the same time as my tomatoes about a week and a half ago (planted them all on the 4th...late start, but hopefully I can still get some stuff off of them in late summer.) They’re certainly slower and really benefit from a heating mat.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:22
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^^ Thanks for that hot sauce thread, I didn't know it was there and I'm in GWS too much.DrBouvenstein posted:Speaking of peppers, none of mine (a mix of bell, jalapeno, and cayenne) have no sprouted at all. They're in those large, 36 "cell" planter trays, and I planted them at the same time as my tomatoes about a week and a half ago (planted them all on the 4th...late start, but hopefully I can still get some stuff off of them in late summer.) Peppers will often take 14 days to sprout, but if you can keep them warmer they tend to go faster. They won't care about the light yet, but they like hot and moist conditions. This is why people put them in the same trays as tomatoes, but if you do this, put the peppers in early. When they sprout you can add the tomato seeds because by the time the cover is ready to come off, the tomatoes will probably have sprouted too. For people who like experiments and have extra seeds, take a few of them, put them in a damp paper towel in a sandwich bag and put this somewhere it'll be 70+ (or just put the seeds on a damp paper towel and put them in a plastic container so you can watch without disturbing). Things like jalapeno and cayenne will go pretty quickly like this, and the sweet peppers will often only take a couple days. If it does work, that means you're probably not keeping the seed cells hot enough for the seeds to enjoy. Normally you can remedy this by just putting a cover over the pepper cells, and that will help keep the heat in.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:24
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Heat and humidity are key to popping hot peppers. The grow light might give a little more heat but the light itself isn't used by any seedling still without true leaves. Also remember that the hotter the pepper, the slower it tends to grow/develop. Ghost peppers were notorious for this though the Carolina Reaper seems to be an exception. Once established they're indestructible to pretty much anything other than frost, they're just really slow out of the gate in the beginning.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:29
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Jhet posted:For people who like experiments and have extra seeds, take a few of them, put them in a damp paper towel in a sandwich bag and put this somewhere it'll be 70+ (or just put the seeds on a damp paper towel and put them in a plastic container so you can watch without disturbing). Things like jalapeno and cayenne will go pretty quickly like this, and the sweet peppers will often only take a couple days. If it does work, that means you're probably not keeping the seed cells hot enough for the seeds to enjoy. Normally you can remedy this by just putting a cover over the pepper cells, and that will help keep the heat in. I mean some of it is just peppers being peppers, but I get better germination rates out of this method but I don't think that's ever translated into more plants in the ground. Would love to learn I'm doing something stupid that I can fix to change it. But yeah, hot peppers are among the most finicky plants to grow from seed. The only thing that I can think of off the top of my head that's consistently more trouble is Sichuan peppercorn. Looking through garden forums for advice on germinating Sichuan peppercorn is like researching prehistoric rituals for ensuring a good harvest--a lot of elaborate, multi-month processes that all subtly contradict each other and none of which work, except when they do.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:44
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I honestly don't know if there's a trick to it, but I just do it really gently and touch right below the leaves. There's definitely some peppers being finicky to it, but it works really well when I was screwing around doing them hydroponic style last fall. I do wonder if they get temp shock when people do this though? Out of someplace cuddly and warm and into someplace dirty, wet, and chilly? I'd give it another shot if you have any way to put them into small dirt cells and then back into a warm container. Peppers can be really temperamental with temperature. That first frost will drop leaves faster than most plants I can think of, so maybe this has something to do with it. I'd love to try germinating huajiao, and I might just give it a try this summer. I'll be in a planting zone that should be able to support it once I get it growing. I dream of being able to just take a bunch of green pods and throwing it into the pan. There are some peppers that are just as temperamental too. Some of the small fruited bushes take months sometimes before you'll get a sprout. There's a couple that are chiltepin sized fruits that do this, but once you get them going if you can keep the frost away they'll go for years.
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Apr 15, 2020 21:56
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mischief posted:Also remember that the hotter the pepper, the slower it tends to grow/develop. I noticed this with habanero seedlings, but after some point of growth they take off like a goddamn rocket and start growing branchier and bushier than the sweet banana pepper plants next to them. Some pepper plants grow like trees, but my habanero plants grow like loving hedges. Speaking of habanero seedlings, I have like a dozen of them from seeds taken from a twelve cent pepper from Safeway. It rules. SubG posted:Is there a particular trick to transplanting (or whatever you call it) sprouts from the paper-towel-in-a-bag stage into pots? I've tried extracting the sprouts from the paper towel, carefully pulling the paper towel apart and planting the sprout with a scrap of paper towel, transplanting as soon as the radical appears, waiting until the seed leaves are spread, and so on and so on and I've still had a lovely success rate. I'm genuinely puzzled by your lack of transplanting success. I usually transplant when I see about a quarter inch of exposed root from the germinated seed, frequently after it has started to burrow into the paper towel. I pull them off of the paper towel with my fingers as gently as possible, but I don't transplant any of the towel with it. There's nothing special about my transplant method either: I fill up a yogurt cup with soil, saturate it with water, make a hole about .25 - .5 inch deep, transplant the seedling (root side down), loosely cover with soil, then put in a sunny window. Once these seedlings are four or five inches tall and the weather is good enough I'll start hardening them off outdoors during the day. At that point they're basically the same as starters you'd get from the garden shop. Jhet posted:I dream of being able to just take a bunch of green pods and throwing it into the pan. If Pimientos de Padron aren't on your radar, buddy, they oughta be. This is exactly how they're prepared, just quickly pan fried with a little olive oil and sea salt. It's one of the best and healthiest summer snacks there is.
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Apr 15, 2020 22:54
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I was thinking more about the Prickly Ash bushes, and they're probably a pain to start from seed because they're the sort of plant that produces a massive amount of seed. So only a small percentage of them are going to put out viable plants like a good number of tree varieties out there do. I guess I'll just have to order a sack of them and see what their germination rate is. It's not like a tomato where you might get 80%+ rates, it's probably closer to 1-5% right? A Pack of Kobolds posted:If Pimientos de Padron aren't on your radar, buddy, they oughta be. This is exactly how they're prepared, just quickly pan fried with a little olive oil and sea salt. It's one of the best and healthiest summer snacks there is. Well, those are tasty, but because only some of them are "hot" I normally skip them. They taste good though. I skip Shishitos for the same reason. I grew a plant from a garden center a few years ago that was labeled Hot Portugal, and I pan fried those like that. They're a bit hotter than the protected Spanish cousins, and quite tasty with some blistered cherry tomatoes and a piece of crusty bread. I've done the same with habaneros too, but I have to do it outside so I don't make everyone else in the house upset.
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Apr 15, 2020 23:53
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 If making GBS threads fire is a prerequisite, yeah, Padron might not be your first choice. I like them because they're delicious and I can eat a big pile of them.
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Apr 16, 2020 00:03
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A Pack of Kobolds posted:I'm genuinely puzzled by your lack of transplanting success. I usually transplant when I see about a quarter inch of exposed root from the germinated seed, frequently after it has started to burrow into the paper towel. I pull them off of the paper towel with my fingers as gently as possible, but I don't transplant any of the towel with it. There's nothing special about my transplant method either: I fill up a yogurt cup with soil, saturate it with water, make a hole about .25 - .5 inch deep, transplant the seedling (root side down), loosely cover with soil, then put in a sunny window. Once these seedlings are four or five inches tall and the weather is good enough I'll start hardening them off outdoors during the day. At that point they're basically the same as starters you'd get from the garden shop. They don't seem to consistently all fail from the same causes, it's more that they just seem less vigorous, and so they have a high failure rate due to multiple causes. It's not like they're fine until they're all wiped out by the same thing or anything like that.
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Apr 16, 2020 00:11
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A Pack of Kobolds posted:
I might have to try those next year. Today I built two more 4x8 beds and received a delivery of 5 yards of dirt, which is probably 1 yard too many, but wtf it was pretty cheap. I've moved some cabbage, chard and green onions outside. I must have sown some seeds at some point cuz something is coming up. Having a poo poo memory just means I'm surprised all the time! I really started my seeds too early, my tomatoes are gonna be huge and my yard long bean is already two feet
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Apr 16, 2020 00:21
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Platystemon posted:True yam or sweet potato? Oh sorry I missed your reply! Uh it's the orange thing that you get in the grocery store. I can never remember which one is a yam and which one is a sweet potato. For as long as I can remember I've literally been wrong every time. Orange skin and orange flesh. Right now my plan is I to throw it into the compost heap just as a "let's see what happens and if it dies it's already where it needs to be" approach
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Apr 16, 2020 00:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Can someone tell me more about this spanish trellis? I just tried googling it and I couldn't find much. I'm trying to single stem my indeterminates for the first time this year and so I'm looking for ideas.
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Apr 16, 2020 00:34
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When I did it I had frames made out of furring strips about 8 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Across the bottom I would tie a line of sisal with two slip knots on either side. Then I'd run lines down from the top of the frame to the bottom line, also using slip knots so you can kind of "tune" the whole thing. Each tomato plant got a vertical string to any main stem and you just kinda wind the string around it as it grows. It's very gentle and works great until the plants get really big. Mine would always either break on top of the trellis where the sun just bakes the twine or somewhere down lower on the vertical strings where moisture would get to the string. I tried UV treated string for the verticals and actual picture wire for the horizontal several years ago and it still failed the same way. I mostly grow indeterminate tomatoes and I am the WORST at keeping them pruned so that probably didn't help me busting strings and killing plants. I switched to the Florida weave using good UV resistant twine and U posts and was pretty successful. If you have a farm supply store near you the binding twine they'll stock works extremely well and is crazy cheap. It's probably ending up in the Pacific Ocean plastic pile but modern life is hell. The furring strips and sisal have been retired though. mischief fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Apr 16, 2020 |
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Apr 16, 2020 00:44
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A Pack of Kobolds posted:
I don't really have that problem, and I do like the heat. The superhots don't even hit me hard these days. I realize that this isn't a normal thing, but there's a whole spectrum of pepper flavor that I have trouble finding in the mild and sweet varieties. mischief posted:When I did it I had frames made out of furring strips about 8 feet tall and 4 feet wide. Across the bottom I would tie a line of sisal with two slip knots on either side. Then I'd run lines down from the top of the frame to the bottom line, also using slip knots so you can kind of "tune" the whole thing. Each tomato plant got a vertical string to any main stem and you just kinda wind the string around it as it grows. This is all correct, but you can modify it in a couple ways. You can use triangles for end posts and run wood or wire across the top of the span. But the theory is the same where you train them to grow up the lead and you just wrap the plant around it. It works best if you're able to plant closer together and prune vigorously. Indeterminates are great for this as they'll just keep vining up to the top where you can just top them off continuously. Basically, if you're not going to reliably prune and plant close together, then you might be better off using another method. I used wood at the top which was able to support it fine, but I didn't prune it the best, and I was gone in the middle of the time where I needed to prune it the most. This wasn't ideal last year. I did plant about 10" apart, and this was enough space once I did learn how to prune vigorously. The Florida weave system looks like it has some additional wind protection, and I was going to add one layer of that across the middle this year, but we get a lot of wind regularly.
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Apr 16, 2020 01:22
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Whoops well it sounds like I did my trellis all wrong! I planted my maters about 30" apart- I guess I don't need to worry about trying to train them to one leader anymore. I knew this was going to be a learning year anyway. Using baling wire top and bottom would be really good insurance and I think I'm gonna try snaking some through my existing system. Adding more verticals on each plant should be easy enough too. I'm suddenly wishing I had a whole ton of basil RIGHT NOW-I planted a bunch of seeds last weekend and am going to move some of them to the herb garden when they come up, but would buying a plant or two and rooting cuttings be any faster? I've rooted them in water before no problem-could I root them in straight miracle grow potting mix, or will the fertilizer mess with the rooting? Some tomatoes are waist high now and a good many (including a cherokee purple!) have set fruit. I think they've grown 8-12" this week, and it made me decide to start taking a picture every day or three from the same spot to make a little time lapse thing. Lots of flowers all around; some of the eggplants are blooming and I had no idea they have such pretty flowers. They're really very handsome plants in general with nice big purpley leaves. Radishes and some of the flowers I planted saturday are coming up too. I don't really like radishes, but I always plant them because they are such good instant gratification. Are there any radish varieties grown mostly for the tops/greens? Because radish tops are actually delicious like spicier arugala or something.
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Apr 16, 2020 01:58
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Platystemon posted:
Cool, thanks! I assume it's not necessary to replace the soil outright after growing something, since much of what's in there seems like it's for texture/draining/non-feedy-planty-reasons, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Any suggestions on how to periodically re-fertilize the soil, since we'll have a perpetual grow season indoors? Add compost between plantings? Water with a particular fertilizer mix every X weeks or months?
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Apr 16, 2020 02:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Whoops well it sounds like I did my trellis all wrong! I planted my maters about 30" apart- I guess I don't need to worry about trying to train them to one leader anymore. I knew this was going to be a learning year anyway. Using baling wire top and bottom would be really good insurance and I think I'm gonna try snaking some through my existing system. Adding more verticals on each plant should be easy enough too. Nightshades in general are beautiful plants. I grew a local ghost pepper hybrid a few years ago that had drop dead gorgeous violet flowers and set really dark purple fruit. Pretty sure it was accidentally crossed with an ornamental pepper as the resulting fruit was completely flavorless and probably mildly poisonous now that I think back on it. Don't sweat the tomato spacing. If you keep it pruned to a few main stems and keep knocking the suckers off on them you'll be buried in tomatoes. You will need more strings to support them though. Be careful what you wish for with basil. It can be shockingly successful and there's only so much room for frozen pesto in anyone's freezer. We had a Genovese Basil that turned into a loving shrub about a decade ago and we still have some of it frozen. That's a monster of a plant. Potting mix won't hurt it's feelings.
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Apr 16, 2020 02:36
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At least with fresh basil you can just eat it as a salad green. Something like mint or oregano not so much
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Apr 16, 2020 03:38
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Shine posted:Cool, thanks! The woody material will break down eventually, and the peat moss even more slowly but as long as the texture is all right, it can be reused. Compost works. Granulated fertiliser works, organic or artificial. Watch out for fertiliser that smells since it’s going to be in your house.
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Apr 16, 2020 04:32
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Jhet posted:^^ Thanks for that hot sauce thread, I didn't know it was there and I'm in GWS too much. Ok, thanks. I don't have a heating mat, but the tray is literally right next to the heat register and the thermostat in that room is set to like 60, but it's on the opposite wall of the heater so it's a lot warmer where the seedlings are, probably over 70. I mist the soil 2-3 times a day, that's not too much, is it? The soil looks dryish when I do it, maybe I can only do it twice a day (morning and night) and just moisten the soil more?
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Apr 16, 2020 13:03
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Look at this little Thai chili freak mutant with three seed leaves! Now I've got to see where this is going. Re: growing peppers from seed, age of the seeds matters a lot for germination rate and speed. Unlike tomatoes that don't seem to give a gently caress.
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Apr 16, 2020 13:48
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I decided on a whim to plant some basil in a milk container I cut open and it's doing very well. I never really ate that much basil before so I'm about to learn.
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Apr 16, 2020 13:53
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DrBouvenstein posted:Ok, thanks. I don't have a heating mat, but the tray is literally right next to the heat register and the thermostat in that room is set to like 60, but it's on the opposite wall of the heater so it's a lot warmer where the seedlings are, probably over 70. If it doesn’t look wet you need more water right now. Pepper seeds need it to be moist. Once they’re growing well they will want less constant saturation, but it’s necessary for them to germinate. Misting isn’t going to be enough because it’ll just evaporate right away. If you can water from the bottom of the tray, do this and let them get wet. The tomato seedlings also like water, so just get a cup measure and start in 1/4 cups for the whole tray. You should only need to check once a day unless they’re sitting on a radiator that’s always on. The first day you’ll probably need to add extra to catch it up where the soil needs it.
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Apr 16, 2020 14:20
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Flipperwaldt posted:Look at this little Thai chili freak mutant with three seed leaves! I have a snapdragon like that! 
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Apr 16, 2020 14:46
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