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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does anyone know if anyone makes something like this that isn’t $500? Most of the delivery dates are a month or more out but there's slightly expensive full face respirators on gearbest, aliexpress, wish and the other usual suspects shipping from China. Some of them even look legit, but it is rolling the dice a bit. McMaster-Carr has some full face available but claim a 7-8 week lead time. Even if things were normal they're the expensive ones. https://www.mcmaster.com/respirators/full-face-cartridge-respirators/
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Apr 14, 2020 00:47
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I assume that pretty much any corded reciprocating saw (other than maybe the cheapest HF version,) is going to be equal, and I should just get whatever one I can find a decent deal on? I don't need it compact, or sub-compact, and cordless is entirely unnecessary. Immediate uses are for demoing a couple "walls" in my bathroom to remove the half-assed closet and try to open the room up, and remove a basketball hoop in my backyard that is preventing me from driving my truck through my garage.
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Apr 14, 2020 20:53
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DrBouvenstein posted:I assume that pretty much any corded reciprocating saw (other than maybe the cheapest HF version,) is going to be equal, and I should just get whatever one I can find a decent deal on? I would suggest getting a name brand one, that has the dual position blade quick-attach (I would think they all have this now). Some pruning blades make it a very efficient limb lopper as well.
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Apr 14, 2020 21:30
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angryrobots posted:Some pruning blades make it a very efficient limb lopper as well. I am normally against cordless saws but the reciprocating saw is one I am a proponent of, for that reason. It has a lot more versatility and need in odd places than something like a circular saw.
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Apr 14, 2020 23:22
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I don't mind having a cordless circular saw when it comes in a kit. They're not bad to lay down right where I'm working because I might need to zip something real quick here or there but I would not own one on its own as my main saw.
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Apr 15, 2020 01:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does anyone know if anyone makes something like this that isn’t $500? Get a sheet of plexiglass and hang it from the ceiling like they do for supermarket checkouts now. Leave it about shouder height so you can still reach lathe. That plus half face resp should work.
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Apr 15, 2020 04:02
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This 10" sliding Ryobi miter saw is a real banger for $139. Great value for the price. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-15-Amp-10-in-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-TSS103/306939218
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Apr 17, 2020 00:00
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That's a nice price.
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Apr 17, 2020 00:09
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Showing $220 here, weird.
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Apr 17, 2020 02:29
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Speaking of Home Depot deals, how's this? Specifically compared to a DeWalt 745. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-10-in-Pro-Jobsite-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4514/309415135
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Apr 17, 2020 02:38
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Well y’all were right about the tape measure being a better way to go than rulers. I got a 40’ Stanley FatMax and measured out the spots where the eyehole screws were supposed to go on my trellis and they were pretty much all off by different amounts. All except the two on the sides. So I marked all of the correct spots, and now I finally get to move on to the next step: Moving my lower row down a SECOND TIME because it turns out I hosed up and forgot to measure the distance to my roof overhang when I put together my plans!  (I could’ve sworn I measured that, but apparently I didn’t)
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Apr 17, 2020 08:57
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In other news, is this a good tool belt? Or is there some dumbass thing that justifies paying double the price for this one instead?
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Apr 17, 2020 09:03
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I. M. Gei posted:So I marked all of the correct spots, and now I finally get to move on to the next step: Moving my lower row down a SECOND TIME because it turns out I hosed up and forgot to measure the distance to my roof overhang when I put together my plans! Measure twice, drill once. I. M. Gei posted:In other news, is this a good tool belt? Or is there some dumbass thing that justifies paying double the price for this one instead? I'm not too familiar with the full harness type, but as long as it's decently well padded and isn't made of garbage materials I think it'll be fine. I bought (a Makita) one without pouches and then got specific pouches that suited the work I was doing, and I've found that leather works best when working with anything sharp, but less well for things like nail or screw pouches as they often have very awkward inner corners. Built-in hammer loops can also be tricky because the size of the loop tends to be intended for a general size of hammer; the loops on my pouch are too close to the other pouches to fit my big hammers in, but too large to hold my smaller hammers. I reckon don't splash out too much up front until you've used it for a bit and can see where you'd want to make improvements. They're all fairly modular, because at the end of the day it's all about belt loops. You could literally use any belt and hook the accessory pouches on, or even just clip things on directly. Anything else is for convenience and comfort.
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Apr 17, 2020 11:29
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As a fatty bobatty goon I highly recommend the full rig with suspenders. I added some old army load bearing suspenders to my belt and it was a game changer. Also, it's a bit more expensive but starting with the belt and suspenders then adding the pouches you want/need is a good way to go. As long as it's nice and thick with decent padding, you should be fine.
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Apr 17, 2020 12:32
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Thanks thread for reminding me I should probably get a toolbelt when I brave covid-19 to get to home-depot to go get a ton of poo poo for random projects that need to be done before I move in 2 weeks.
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Apr 17, 2020 12:43
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stealie72 posted:As a fatty bobatty goon I highly recommend the full rig with suspenders. I added some old army load bearing suspenders to my belt and it was a game changer. mods
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Apr 17, 2020 15:18
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I. M. Gei posted:In other news, is this a good tool belt? Or is there some dumbass thing that justifies paying double the price for this one instead? Do you find yourself doing work requiring a full framing belt?
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Apr 17, 2020 15:40
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I wore a toolbelt yesterday to hold all of my stuff for mounting 2 shelves to a wall. Overkill? Maybe but it's a real nice to have to avoid the "where did I set this?" or "gently caress I can't reach the thing while I hold this other thing in place" etc. I am using a Duluth Trade Company setup which has no suspenders and the belt just barely cinches down tight enough for me and I'm like a 36-8 inch waist with a gut. Anyway it's ok but I think the route of buying specific pouches for a nicer belt/suspenders setup is a better long term purchase.
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Apr 17, 2020 16:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:mods tangy yet delightful posted:Overkill? Maybe but it's a real nice to have to avoid the "where did I set this?" or "gently caress I can't reach the thing while I hold this other thing in place" etc. Me never: "I really wish I hadn't put my bool belt on for this job" tangy yet delightful posted:I am using a Duluth Trade Company setup which has no suspenders and the belt just barely cinches down tight enough for me and I'm like a 36-8 inch waist with a gut. Anyway it's ok but I think the route of buying specific pouches for a nicer belt/suspenders setup is a better long term purchase.
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Apr 17, 2020 17:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:110%, especially when I was doing three-way mitres. Even drawing angles on things didn't always help. oh my god don't even get me started. I tried to make corner bass traps with all boards bevel cut for the corner. Think 3 sided pyramid that fits up in the corner of a room where the ceiling and 2 walls meet. I tried like a dozen times before I realized my mitre was garbage and wouldn't cut a straight bevel unless the board was spaced out to the middle of the base, like 2" away from the backstop.
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Apr 17, 2020 17:45
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stealie72 posted:LOL, I'm honored.  Harry Potter on Ice posted:Do you find yourself doing work requiring a full framing belt? I find myself wasting at least an hour a day that could be spent getting actual work done making multiple trips in and out of my house to get/put away tools and poo poo, forgetting where I left poo poo, and forgetting what poo poo I was looking for as soon as I get inside or outside to get it.
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Apr 17, 2020 20:58
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I have another question. I may need to post a pic to better explain what I’m doing here, but I’ll try just asking first. I need to cut a chunk out of the side of a 4x4 so it can rest flat against a section of my wall that has something sticking out. Nothing too complicated, no tight curves or wild shapes, just a simple straight perpendicular cut going all the way through. What kind of saw is best for doing this? I’m thinking a jig saw, a portable band saw, or a recip saw, probably one of the first two.
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Apr 17, 2020 22:11
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I. M. Gei posted:I have another question. You can get that done with pretty much any saw, really. I'd personally use a bog standard hand saw and a chisel for cleanup, but anything else would do. If you've got a band saw that would be fine. A jigsaw would be OK but I don't think you'll have a blade that makes it all the way through, and I'm not sure jigsaws are great at partial cuts. Even a table saw would be fine with a sled of some kind. Heck, I've done similar with a mitre saw and I'm sure some nutters have used a freehand circular saw.
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Apr 17, 2020 22:19
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I. M. Gei posted:I have another question. I built my workbench using relief cuts with a circular saw, don't have any good pictures so stealing from the source (rehosted): https://woodgears.ca/workbench/  Depending on exactly how deep and wide of a cut you need to make and what tools you already have that could determine the best/cheapest way to go about it.
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Apr 17, 2020 22:33
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stealie72 posted:As a fatty bobatty goon I highly recommend the full rig with suspenders. I added some old army load bearing suspenders to my belt and it was a game changer. Load bearing suspenders are the difference between a horrible welt on your hip from the stupid tool belt, and finishing the day out with sweaty shoulders.
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Apr 17, 2020 22:34
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I. M. Gei posted:I have another question. This is one of the easier answers, really. Measure how much you need to remove. Set your circ saw to that depth. Cut at each end of size you need, then make a bunch of cuts inside there. Hammer away excess. You've just made a lap joint.
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Apr 17, 2020 22:44
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tangy yet delightful posted:I built my workbench using relief cuts with a circular saw, don't have any good pictures so stealing from the source (rehosted): I do not trust my circular saw skills enough to do this if I can avoid it. Especially since the section I need to cut is at an angle so I’d have to adjust the depth a bunch.
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Apr 17, 2020 23:06
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Dont suppose you can show us a picture...
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Apr 17, 2020 23:13
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You can set the circ saw blade at an angle but you could also cut out a triangle shape with a bowsaw (like $15 or 20 probably) or a jigsaw (depending on depth). I guess you could also chisel the entire thing out too. Picture could be good here too.
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Apr 17, 2020 23:21
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I. M. Gei posted:I do not trust my circular saw skills enough to do this if I can avoid it. Especially since the section I need to cut is at an angle so I’d have to adjust the depth a bunch. Sounds like the 'best' power tool for the job is a regular bandsaw + a friend to support the far end of the board. I'm assuming the profile looks something like this? code:
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Apr 17, 2020 23:55
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Nevets posted:Sounds like the 'best' power tool for the job is a regular bandsaw + a friend to support the far end of the board. If that's the profile why wouldn't he just put the board on that side and cut it out with.....anything?
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Apr 17, 2020 23:59
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The circular saw + chisel approach is honestly the easiest option here. Set your circular saw depth to the amount of thickness you want to remove from the board, make multiple passes to remove most of the material, chisel out the remainder (it should pop right out without much effort; even a screwdriver will work fine as a chisel here). Most of the cuts don't need to be at all precise because they're just removing material from the inside of the channel. Don't try to exactly match the profile of whatever protrusion you're working around. It's massively more work. Not only do you have a much trickier profiling job to do, but now you have to make sure that the channel you cut in your board exactly lines up with the protrusion you're working around. If you do the rectangular cut-out then you can leave yourself some slop on either end.
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Apr 18, 2020 00:14
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I. M. Gei posted:I do not trust my circular saw skills enough to do this if I can avoid it. Especially since the section I need to cut is at an angle so I’d have to adjust the depth a bunch. It the simplest of cuts, and remember Rule 1- this is not furniture, it doesn't have to be perfect. Even if it was furniture, it wouldn't have to be perfect. Mark it out with a pencil. The saw will cut up to 45 degrees.
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Apr 18, 2020 01:50
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I completely forgot I could adjust my circ saw to cut at an angle!  This is why I keep coming to this thread. Thanks, y’all just saved me some cash and a trip to Home Depot tool rental. Nevets posted:I'm assuming the profile looks something like this? Yeah that’s about what it looks like.
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Apr 18, 2020 03:02
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And here’s something relevant to the new thread title. I just got this tool belt. The belt itself is...... okay; I might like it better if it didn’t require me to spend 45 minutes adjusting it to fit me. The removable velcro loops that hold the suspenders to the belt are some hot dogshit though. They barely stay on and can’t support any weight for poo poo, which on a tool belt is pretty loving unacceptable. Suffice to say they are not “load bearing” at all. Seriously whoever at Husky thought that making these things out of velcro was a good idea needs to get their sinuses power-washed with molten copper. The loops are so bad that I’m trying to come up with ways to close them permanently (or close to it) so they won’t keep coming apart. Are there any ways I might be able to do this, short of sewing them closed while they’re on the belt? And if I have to sew them closed...... how do I do that? I haven’t sewed anything since middle school home ec class.
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Apr 18, 2020 03:36
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Gaffers tape.
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Apr 18, 2020 03:39
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Just return it and get something else?
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Apr 18, 2020 04:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Just return it and get something else? Do this. If it's gear you're going to be wearing, get something that makes you happy and comfortable and works for you. Don't be afraid to ask to try on belts in the store.
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Apr 18, 2020 04:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Just return it and get something else? Brute Squad posted:Do this. If it's gear you're going to be wearing, get something that makes you happy and comfortable and works for you. Don't be afraid to ask to try on belts in the store. ‘Kay! Does McGuire-Nicholas make good tool belts? The reviews look pretty solid.
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Apr 18, 2020 08:00
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One of my 4x4s is stuck to the wall. Somehow two of the lag screws holding it up broke inside of it, they’re both buried too deep for me to pull them out, and the wood is too close to the wall for me to be able to get at them with bolt cutters or a saw. I need to get this wood down one way or another, and I’d strongly prefer not to cut the entire board to pieces if I can possibly avoid it. The only solution I can think of is to core out the screws with a drill and a bit capable of going through metal. Is there a better idea I’m missing here?
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Apr 19, 2020 07:56
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