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peanut posted:Re: kitchen cabinets my floors are a medium oak so good choice on medium oak
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May 29, 2020 15:25
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peanut posted:You're right. But wood is my kitchen destiny… I'll find other ways to add color. If they're bolts they fix into something? If they're loose but can't just be nipped up something's broken and needs a little investigation, is there an insert in the wood that's loose broken or missing? If they screw straight into wood and are loose then maybe a bunch of match sticks and glue then screw them back in when dry. cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 16:09 on May 29, 2020 |
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May 29, 2020 15:53
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Loose going straight into wood. I'll try that matchsticks thing !
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May 29, 2020 22:57
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H110Hawk posted:Were you able to get variable speed everything like a sane modern non-american? No, variable would be an unreasonable increase in price any way I sliced it. If could have specced it at build time then it would be about what I'm paying now. This is in part due to my furnace having a single speed air handler. actionjackson posted:yeah the HVAC companies seem to be quite busy and not really affected by covid. Is that cost just for the AC??? How big is your house is you are getting a 4 ton? 1850 square feet, two stories, 9 foot ceilings. 4 tons may be overkill, the $12k 2.5ton bid was the only contractor that actually filled out that worksheet to determine load. I don't care, I'm speccing this for working from home, upstairs, and the hottest days of the year. I think the high price is in part living in a nice, but relatively unpopulated part of California, I called more than half of the local (~50 miles) contractors. Also this is a new install on a new, but not AC ready home, a significant portion of the cost is running the lineset from the attic (where the furnace / air handler is) to the ground outside the house and electrical, though there's at least a conduit from the panel to the attic for this purpose already.
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May 30, 2020 01:51
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Aquila posted:No, variable would be an unreasonable increase in price any way I sliced it. If could have specced it at build time then it would be about what I'm paying now. This is in part due to my furnace having a single speed air handler. You should read about the problems with oversizing a unit, which if you're 75% over could be pretty significant. Also, if you're not doing the air handler you have to have enough cfm to not freeze the coil up.
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May 30, 2020 02:22
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glynnenstein posted:You should read about the problems with oversizing a unit, which if you're 75% over could be pretty significant. Also, if you're not doing the air handler you have to have enough cfm to not freeze the coil up. The furnace matches a 4 ton compressor and they're enlarging my return as well.
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May 30, 2020 02:36
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Thinking of getting a smart thermostat. Videos make it seem like it is very easy to install. Is that one of the cases where it is pretty much foolproof, or is it "it's theoretically simple but if you mess up or if there's something non-standard you can end up with 5 digits worth of repairs?"
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May 30, 2020 17:21
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Everything is easy if you have a house that is mostly up to modern code. Reality is more like a dice roll.
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May 30, 2020 18:31
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joepinetree posted:Thinking of getting a smart thermostat. Videos make it seem like it is very easy to install. Is that one of the cases where it is pretty much foolproof, or is it "it's theoretically simple but if you mess up or if there's something non-standard you can end up with 5 digits worth of repairs?" It’s pretty easy, you just match the colors of the wires to the terminals. You do have to keep an eye on your equipment to make sure the thermostat isn’t making it do anything weird, like repeatedly turn on and off or run in emergency heating modes, but a thermostat isn’t likely to cause any immediate damage even if it is misbehaving.
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May 30, 2020 18:40
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Fallom posted:It’s pretty easy, you just match the colors of the wires to the terminals. I'm gonna stop you right there: you have no idea whether the correct color were used or not. You need to verify that first before disconnecting them from the old thermostat. There is also the concern that in most placed with cheap/basic thermostats nobody bothered to run a common wire, or if it's in the bundle it may not even be hooked up to the unit on the other side.
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May 30, 2020 18:48
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The colors match, but no C wire in place (and the current piece of crap thermostat doesn't even have a spot for a c wire) Have no idea if there is one connected to the unit itself, and while product descriptions for units like nest keep saying that they "can" run without one, there's also stuff like: https://smartthermostatguide.com/no-c-wire-install-a-nest-thermostat-at-your-own-risk/ Guess it's time to call the guys who do hvac maintenance for the condos here and talk to them.
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May 30, 2020 19:32
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Nest doesn't need a c wire I don't think I have a Honeywell T9 (they has a c wire adapter in the box) that I like because of the extra sensors (when my kids are here I have it prioritize upstairs) when they aren't I have it prioritize the master bedroom. Plus my thermostat is in the dining room facing a big rear end picture window so I just tell it to ignore the actual thermostats temps at all times.
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May 30, 2020 20:16
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tater_salad posted:Nest doesn't need a c wire I don't think With varying levels of success. If the system runs enough it can stay charged. If the system doesn't freak out at the power thief mode it can stay charged, but this is far from a given. Otherwise you're taking it off the wall and charging it via USB.
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May 30, 2020 20:21
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I had a Sensi smart thermostat that didn't really cost anything as I got a rebate from the energy company, but just switched back to a dumb one because gently caress the internet of things
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May 30, 2020 20:28
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tater_salad posted:Nest doesn't need a c wire I don't think I have a 2-wire boiler from I think 2009 and it’s been working great with my Nest. I had to give the battery an initial charge but after that it’s managed to stay topped up for 3 years. I actually called an HVAC guy out to look into adding a common wire and he just scratched his head for a while and said he couldn’t figure it out. So much for upgrading to an Ecobee.
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May 30, 2020 20:31
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Does it let you know if charge is running low in case of rare use? I am also not a big fan of the internet of things. But this condo gets lots of late afternoon sun, and the wife and I have a sort of erratic teaching schedule where we are frequently not home till after sunset. I don't want the AC on trying to keep the place at 78 with no one home, and I don't want to be boiling alive before I remember to switch back to 78 when I am home, and our schedule is too irregular for most "program" functions of dumb thermostats.
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May 30, 2020 20:42
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joepinetree posted:Does it let you know if charge is running low in case of rare use? Yes it warns you, and you can just pop it off and charge it through a USB port on the back.
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May 30, 2020 20:45
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Motronic posted:With varying levels of success. Yeah I guess I needed a * there Fallom posted:I have a 2-wire boiler from I think 2009 and it’s been working great with my Nest. I had to give the battery an initial charge but after that it’s managed to stay topped up for 3 years. You have options but they're a pain in the dick. https://support.ecobee.com/hc/en-us/articles/227874667-Heat-only-2-wire-boiler-furnace-installations
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May 31, 2020 00:22
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I’d take the existing thermostat off the wall and look and see what’s actually in the bundle before you decide that there is or isn’t a C wire. I’ve had my Nest on 3 different systems in three locations, and two of them had crappy thermostats that didn’t use a C wire. Lo and behold, it was tucked up in the wall along with the heater control wire. One of those times (in an apartment) it wasn’t hooked up to the unit on the other end either, but it was already run. All I had to do was screw it into the terminal block.
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May 31, 2020 01:40
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Bit the bullet. I was checking my power company's website to see if the power was disconnected at the old place and saw that they had a pretty big insta rebate.
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May 31, 2020 16:07
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~exterior design thread~ I asked the paysagiste to come up with some ways of saving money on the terrace remodel and thought I would report back. We definitely could save money - going for a wood or composite terrace and just a white render on the walls cuts the cost in half. It's super tempting but I worry about longevity of the wood. For the walls, we wanted a dry stone wall look, if we just go for a stone clad look that's a lot less, maybe 50% less for materials, but the cost to lay it is the same. On the below link the cheaper stuff is Luserna Mélangée CG015 vs Luserna Mixte at the bottom which is the dry stone. http://www.forclazpierresnaturelles.ch/produit.php?id=90&titre=Luserna Looking at other peoples' terraces, wood seems to get hosed up pretty quickly, but stone flags will basically be permanent. and this poo poo looks fantastic  We are currently at a bit of an impasse: pretty much for sure the rectangular flagstones, I am not really keen on the stone clad so the choice is white render the wall or dry stone it. Late edit: looking at the photo, health and safety here is very different, you wouldn't see a terrace with no barrier and then a kilometer drop in the UK knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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May 31, 2020 22:40
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SpartanIvy posted:What you're looking for for your door is weather stripping and if your door, like your house, is 1 year old it should have it already. Check the door frame for foam/rubber around the inside. It's not weatherstripping, as it's not the seal of the door or a window itself; it's the framing. The white is the overall frame for the entry, the brown wood part is the window that runs vertically. There's an 1/8th inch gap there towards the bottom and a bit at the top. https://imgur.com/a/bYqPKE7
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Jun 1, 2020 02:11
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knox_harrington posted:~exterior design thread~ Personally I think the white render would be a nice contrast to the stone flags. Can't speak for switzerland but back here you have two choices for white render: 1. Old-style cement render, painted. Pros: you can get it very smooth and very white, and change the colour with a coat of paint. Cons: it'll need repainting from time to time. 2. Monocoche render which has the colour permanently mixed in. Pros: very little maintenance, maintains colour indefinitely. Cons: workers seem to prefer going for a rougher finish, and they're not quite as blinding white as paint. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 09:40
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Pleased to have ① finally framed this Hong Kong souvenir (canvas stretched on wood frame, no glass) from five years ago ② at a local DIY workshop where I also ③ dropped off an antique vanity with broken trim (visible bottom right) then ④ after lunch at my friend's ramen shop ⑤ I got a dresser-desk at the thrift store, only $10 because some idiot put tape/glue on it.
peanut fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 10:03
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Dresser desk!! I've been looking for this exact width for a few years. #moream mediumoakruleseverythingaroundme
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Jun 1, 2020 10:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:Personally I think the white render would be a nice contrast to the stone flags. He's quoted for crépi à l'ancienne which as far as I can tell is lime mortar. So yeah then painted over the top. http://www.techni.ch/technifin/haupt/batiment/sujet_0037_02/0037_02.html
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Jun 1, 2020 10:14
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My house has heated a coil that runs off the oil boiler for hot water. The inspector and a plumber both suggested to replace the coil with an hot water heater when it goes. Why do people not like this setup?
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Jun 1, 2020 13:35
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daslog posted:My house has heated a coil that runs off the oil boiler for hot water. The inspector and a plumber both suggested to replace the coil with an hot water heater when it goes. Why do people not like this setup? Seems like it would be tough to regulate the temperature, which shouldn't be over 125 F or so, compared to the higher temperatures in the boiler. Maybe replace with an indirect hot water heater? They're expensive but they last longer than standalone hot water heaters. Edit: unless you mean the coil is in a separate tank, which is what I'm describing and which IMO rules and you should keep it. Don't know why I thought you were describing something just heating the water pipe directly, which seems odd. tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 14:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:Personally I think the white render would be a nice contrast to the stone flags. It's a tough choice. While it's generally traditional the chalet itself has kinda modern looking details compared to some - the wood is more panelling than log cabin, for example, and it's all very neat and square. I am quite keen to get a more rustic look, which was why I have been leaning towards the stone. On the other hand, as I've already complained it's a load more expensive, and as you say white render would look really crisp. You get the idea from this side. I do think the wall (and front of the retaining wall you can't see from here) will look better in stone than render, and will give a much more rustic look. The "front door" to the house is just off to the left of the photo on the top floor, we will get the path extended and oak sleeper steps put in so people can access the terrace without going through the house.  Neighbours are having something delivered:  eta: it's amazing how much exterior copper work there is around here, all the guttering and downpipes on my place are copper and that's pretty common. I feel that back in the UK it would have been nicked within a week. One neighbour is just having the trim round his car parking space re-done in copper, bonkers. knox_harrington fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jun 1, 2020 |
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Jun 1, 2020 15:42
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what's the best type of sandpaper to get rid of this excess orange peel I applied to the wall? holy hell I wish I could just get rid of this texture altogether, but that would mean having the entire place repainted
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Jun 1, 2020 17:57
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actionjackson posted:what's the best type of sandpaper to get rid of this excess orange peel I applied to the wall? you have textured walls accept that any repair is going to look like rear end..
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Jun 1, 2020 18:30
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tater_salad posted:you have textured walls accept that any repair is going to look like rear end.. I'll still take smooth over overtextured  the good thing is it only affects a specific area because that area is too far back to get sunlight during the day.
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Jun 1, 2020 22:35
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Tape off 2' squares and texture each square differently. Then when you need to repair anything bingo, just throw whatever texture you want at your 2' section.
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Jun 1, 2020 22:40
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cakesmith handyman posted:Tape off 2' squares and texture each square differently. Then when you need to repair anything bingo, just throw whatever texture you want at your 2' section. lmfao ok I still do want to know about what sandpaper to use though, I would imagine it would be a high grit. medium grit takes a lot of force to work
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Jun 1, 2020 22:53
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actionjackson posted:lmfao To use for what? No sandpaper is going to make that right. It's literally cheaper and easier to re-rock than to sand a textured wall down enough to skim coat it and make it look right.....whether that's to make it a smooth wall or to re-apply texture to the entire thing (you would be a monster to do so). If you're talking about sanding for just a patch, it's all gonna be about the same story. Go at it with 40 grit for speed and you're real likely to get down fast and quick enough to get into the paper. Whoops. And even if you don't you're gonna need to step the grits down and keep going over it until it's......ready for texture? Let's say you had the art and skill (because that's what it is) to figure that out. Now what? How are you going to blend the texture? There exist people that can do this, but it's what they do every day. tater_salad posted:you have textured walls accept that any repair is going to look like rear end..
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Jun 2, 2020 00:10
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I used an oscillating tool with a flexible blade to cut texture that was so drat spiky it would literally cut your hand Would not recommend that method.
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Jun 2, 2020 00:15
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I'm not saying make it the right texture. I want to remove the texture and then repaint it smooth. Just how it would be if there was a hole in the wall that I speckled and then repainted
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Jun 2, 2020 00:17
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actionjackson posted:I'm not saying make it the right texture. I want to remove the texture and then repaint it smooth. Refer to my "it's literally easier and cheaper to re-rock" statement. A lot of people have just chucked 1/4" drywall up over their nasty walls, whether it be from texture or whatever, to cover the sins and make it look decent again.
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Jun 2, 2020 00:28
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actionjackson posted:I'm not saying make it the right texture. I want to remove the texture and then repaint it smooth. Just how it would be if there was a hole in the wall that I speckled and then repainted If you're sanding it down to nothing you're going to still need to skim coat it to make it smooth, which is its own texture. It's really poo poo work. You put chunky sandpaper on a ~12"x4" block, attach that block to a pole, then sand away. It will go straight through paper if you aren't careful. You should stop trying for a month and see if it still bothers you. If it does, consider hiring it out. You might be surprised what you can live with if you stop focusing your life on it. I'm really not trying to be dismissive here, it's just terrible work no matter how you cut it.
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Jun 2, 2020 00:41
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Okay gotcha thanks for the feedback!
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Jun 2, 2020 00:44
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