|
Howdy, it's new rig time after plus half a decade. Budget is as flexible as needed, I'm looking for the usual bang-for-buck compromise, so ~$900 is fine. I was pleased to see my choice for CPU reflected in the OP, means I've been parsing the review site data relatively well. Here's what I've penciled in so far: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($56.98 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($57.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Intel 665p 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($129.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($259.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Corsair) Total: $634.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-07 09:32 EDT-0400 (Ignore the bad price on the CPU, pcpartspicker has been having some weird issues over the past few days.) Any advice on upgrading/stepping down these components would be lovely, but mostly I need help picking a mobo and case. Mobos are mysterious creatures and gently caress me if I can find a pattern in how they're priced or what any features actually translate to in performance. Add to that pcpartspicker throwing (apparently outdated?) warnings about BIOS flashing on some selections and I feel quite out at sea. As for case, I would prefer minimal visual clutter with definite emphasis on function over form. I could abide by a side window if I have to but no christmas lights - price, noise and cooling are all I'm looking for. I've gone mid tower on my two previous builds, but if there's a cheaper/gooder micro configuration of these two parts I'm up to try it. No interest in overclocking or anything, just want reliability.
|
# ? Jul 7, 2020 14:54 |
|
|
# ? May 28, 2024 06:48 |
|
Grayshift posted:Howdy, it's new rig time after plus half a decade. Budget is as flexible as needed, I'm looking for the usual bang-for-buck compromise, so ~$900 is fine. I was pleased to see my choice for CPU reflected in the OP, means I've been parsing the review site data relatively well. Here's what I've penciled in so far: Something like this? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($56.98 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg) Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($259.99 @ B&H) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($80.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Corsair) Total: $877.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-07 10:48 EDT-0400 Usual disclaimer about how buying during COVID means stuff goes in & out of stock and may be jacked up at random, plus Zen 3 and RTX 3000 are coming out later, etc.
|
# ? Jul 7, 2020 15:49 |
|
EDIT: I don't remember posting the other question. Sorry.
|
# ? Jul 7, 2020 16:07 |
|
sean10mm posted:Something like this? Thank you for the case and mobo recommendations; I had seen that mobo as my likely bet, but had missed that case and it looks fine - I had to discard what I had been leaning toward for only including a single fan stock. What is the justification behind the memory/cooler/SSD changes? I will certainly be making those changes to my build as it's all well within my budget, but knowing why or how I failed to spot these superior bargains would be nice. The memory I can see, I've read that Ryzens respond well to better ram speeds. I can't find much on the Intel 665p other than it being marginally better than the previous 660p for about the same price, and didn't see the recommended SSD on anyone's top reviewed lists. Lots of conflicting info on coolers though; I defaulted to the Gammaxx 400 as it's been Logical Increments' budget pick for a long rear end time. edit: Not sure how I missed the SSD being so good. Thanks again. Grayshift fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jul 7, 2020 |
# ? Jul 7, 2020 17:31 |
|
Trying to plan out a potential moderate sized plex/home media server in my future, I have a couple requirements, it needs to be quiet, low enough power that I can leave it on 24/7, and have around 10-15TB of space in a RAID 10 setup. I've seen people pitch just using a NAS to do that, but I think I can get it done in a more capable manner than that. I am not opposed to using used parts, and while I don't like Intel, the power of Intel's Quick Sync video encoding is extremely high, and AMD/NVIDIA really don't have an answer to that without shelling out potentially $5-600 on a GPU (an 8th gen Intel laptop can transcode something silly like 20 streams at 1080p using Quick Sync video encoding). With that said, this is what I am leaning towards, the RAID drives are going to be supported by an LSI SAS 9211-4i card in RAID 10 mode, (couldn't really show that in PCPartpicker) Drives are also stand ins because PCPartPicker didnt have the exact drives I am looking for, I'm getting my RAID array setup from a group buy on bitdeals.tech. (this will be my first purchase out of this setup, as it is a group buy with a finite time for purchase) quote:PCPartPicker Part List I am well aware that this will be a multi-part build over a couple months, but I am looking for input from anyone who has experience with a setup for a moderate size media server with whether this is a sane setup or if I've missed anything. E: I could also go super cheap mode and if I am specifically looking for PLEX just buy an HP 290-0043w for my Plex Transcode server, and then use a dedicated Synology box or something as a NAS, even though I don't reeeeallly want to have 2 boxes. orange juche fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jul 7, 2020 |
# ? Jul 7, 2020 21:48 |
|
orange juche posted:Trying to plan out a potential moderate sized plex/home media server in my future, I have a couple requirements, it needs to be quiet, low enough power that I can leave it on 24/7, and have around 10-15TB of space in a RAID 10 setup. I've seen people pitch just using a NAS to do that, but I think I can get it done in a more capable manner than that. I am not opposed to using used parts, and while I don't like Intel, the power of Intel's Quick Sync video encoding is extremely high, and AMD/NVIDIA really don't have an answer to that without shelling out potentially $5-600 on a GPU (an 8th gen Intel laptop can transcode something silly like 20 streams at 1080p using Quick Sync video encoding). The big challenge I see is getting a mobo with >6 SATA ports. You've got a setup needing 6 for the hard drives + one for the blu-ray drive there. e: This is exacerbated by how many motherboards will deactivate SATA ports if you install an M.2 SSD. Even on Z390 motherboards using the M.2 slot takes an SATA port out of commission. This is why pc part picker flags the compatibility issue even if you remove the blu-ray drive. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jul 7, 2020 |
# ? Jul 7, 2020 22:37 |
|
sean10mm posted:The big challenge I see is getting a mobo with >6 SATA ports. You've got a setup needing 6 for the hard drives + one for the blu-ray drive there. Like I said, if I build this, I will be using an add-in hardware SAS card to support the drive array. That takes a PCIe 8x 2.0 connection on your motherboard and turns it into up to 256 SAS/SATA drive connections (if you have enough poo poo to string them together) What I'm looking for is any potential servergoons who have set up something similar and can tell me whether I am insane or if that is a sane media server setup.
|
# ? Jul 7, 2020 22:54 |
|
orange juche posted:Like I said, if I build this, I will be using an add-in hardware SAS card to support the drive array. That takes a PCIe 8x 2.0 connection on your motherboard and turns it into up to 256 SAS/SATA drive connections (if you have enough poo poo to string them together) Whoops, missed that part.
|
# ? Jul 7, 2020 22:55 |
|
demostars posted:On the Lenovo outlet there's a PC with a Coffee Lake i5 + a GTX 1650 that seems like the best deal near his budget. It lacks 16GB of RAM, but you should be able to add another DIMM easily and beat out an equivalent refurbished prebuilt + GTX 1650 + SSD from the Dell Outlet. GODDAMN IT you HAD to post this like a week or so after i already bought my PC, didn't you? the PC you linked is quite a bit superior to the one i have now. for reference: CPU: i5 6500 quadcore 3.2 Ghz GPU: intel HD graphics 530 RAM: 16 GB @ 2133 mhz SSD: 250 GB this was for $100 cheaper. the only area where mine is superior is in the total amount of RAM, but i could have just upgraded if i got the other one. this one won't even let me upgrade the GPU unless i get a brand new power supply along with it (it's only 200 Watts) granted, at least for now, the computer is running premiere, after effects and photoshop, plus 30 open tabs on opera without any issues, and compared to my old laptop, it's like greased lightning, so it's not like it's TERRIBLE, per se, but i hate missing out on good deals.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 06:14 |
|
Possibly a weird question, but... how well do PSUs and cases age? My PC (built thanks to this thread) is now 8 years old, and needs updating. I'm planning on keeping & reusing the graphics card (updated) & drives, but is an 8-year-old 500W PSU a liability or way less power efficient than modern ones (here's mine)? Plus, how do cases hold up (here's mine)- I'm thinking particularly about the front USB slots. My PC technically has USB3 ports, but trying to use Oculus Link for VR doesn't think so- it only recognises them as USB2. I'm wondering if this is solely down to an elderly and infirm motherboard, or if the front USB cables might simply not be up to scratch either. It's not exactly a huge burden if I have to rebuy either, but it seems a bit environmentally unfriendly to replace them if I don't need to.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 06:57 |
|
Talkie Toaster posted:Possibly a weird question, but... how well do PSUs and cases age? Your PSU is 5 years out of warranty, absolutely do not carry it over, kinda amazed it hasn't popped already, as ones with 3 year warranties are usually made out of questionable parts, probably the only thing that's keeping it running is the Seasonic name. As far as USB3 ports, you have to make sure you plug things into the right headers, but as far as I know, the USB3.0 header is quite different than USB2.0 header and they cannot be plugged in to each other, though there may be a chipset driver you are missing on your motherboard, and so it's falling back to USB 2.0? Your case specs state you only have 1x USB 3.0 port on the case, so it's probably worth upgrading anyways. orange juche fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jul 8, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 07:15 |
|
orange juche posted:Your PSU is 5 years out of warranty, absolutely do not carry it over, kinda amazed it hasn't popped already, as ones with 3 year warranties are usually made out of questionable parts, probably the only thing that's keeping it running is the Seasonic name. As far as USB3 ports, you have to make sure you plug things into the right headers, but as far as I know, the USB3.0 header is quite different than USB2.0 header and they cannot be plugged in to each other, though there may be a chipset driver you are missing on your motherboard, and so it's falling back to USB 2.0? Your case specs state you only have 1x USB 3.0 port on the case, so it's probably worth upgrading anyways.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 09:28 |
|
Seasonic PSUs don't just explode because they're old, the M12 II was a good PSU and 3 years of warranty was pretty normal for the time. But since it *is* old I definitely wouldn't move it to a new computer (or keep using it in an older one that still sees heavy use). USB 2.0 vs. 3.0 front panel headers:
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 10:43 |
|
Looking for last minute thoughts on a budget gaming computer I'm building for a relative of mine. They were going to pick up a supermarket package gaming computer but I'm trying to save the kid from that and build something that runs games relatively ok. What country are you in? Finland What are you using the system for? FullHD 60fps gaming What's your budget? 700€ (local prices don't match exactly with the pcpartspicker ones) PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3100 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($185.00 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($125.00 @ Amazon) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($81.61 @ Walmart) Storage: Kingston A2000 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Walmart) Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 580 8 GB AREZ Dual OC Video Card Case: SilentiumPC Signum SG1X TG RGB ATX Mid Tower Case Actually SG1M but that's not pickable on the site +1 additional case fan Arctic F12 PWM rev.2 120 x 120 x 25 600-1350 RPM Power Supply: SeaSonic CORE GM 500 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply Total 712€ I was hoping for a 3300X but looks like the availability is an issue. Also trying to discuss the budget if I can get 1660 super instead of the rx580 since its quite old by now. Anything else that sticks out? DeadlyHalibut fucked around with this message at 12:39 on Jul 8, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 11:37 |
|
quote is not edit
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 12:38 |
|
Is there any reliable option to buy Windows 10 licenses other than just paying Microsoft? Even Amazon (which is only a ~10% saving over MS) has a bunch of reviews saying the codes were bogus.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 19:26 |
|
Gasmask posted:Is there any reliable option to buy Windows 10 licenses other than just paying Microsoft? Even Amazon (which is only a ~10% saving over MS) has a bunch of reviews saying the codes were bogus. There's a goon selling them in SA-Mart that's for sure reliable. DeadlyHalibut fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Jul 9, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 19:32 |
|
Errrr. All of this talk of PSUs just reminded me that my CS450m is like 6 years old at this point. I should PROBABLY replace that. How cheap can I safely go? Would this one be good? Lareine fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Jul 8, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 19:53 |
|
Lareine posted:Errrr. All of this talk of PSUs just reminded me that my CS450m is like 6 years old at this point. I should PROBABLY replace that. How cheap can I safely go? Would this one be good? Rough rule of thumb is to look at how long the warranty is, Seasonic Focus semi-modular have a 7 year warranty and Seasonic is a good brand so I'd think it would be solid. <$100 is a surprisingly sane price for any PSU lately.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 20:12 |
|
DeadlyHalibut posted:I got a working code out of https://software-codes.com/ Noice. Thanks!
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 20:15 |
|
Nm
wormil fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Jul 12, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 20:39 |
|
Lareine posted:Errrr. All of this talk of PSUs just reminded me that my CS450m is like 6 years old at this point. I should PROBABLY replace that. How cheap can I safely go? Would this one be good? Welp, it just jumped to 200 bucks. Time for alternatives. Are EVGA PSUs any good? On second thought, it only has a 5 year warranty. Maybe I should pay the extra money and get this one instead since it has 10 years. Lareine fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jul 8, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 20:57 |
|
I bought the PSU in my Frankenstein's monster of a build more than 11 years ago, so well past its 3-year warranty. I think I know what I'm getting myself for Christmas.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 21:36 |
|
DeadlyHalibut posted:Looking for last minute thoughts on a budget gaming computer I'm building for a relative of mine. They were going to pick up a supermarket package gaming computer but I'm trying to save the kid from that and build something that runs games relatively ok. PC part picker says there is a vendor with the 3300X in stock as of right now. As for the video card, the RX 580 while old, remains the best budget-friendly 1080p/soft 60fps card right now. However, if the budget can be stretched, I agree the 1660S is a good choice.
|
# ? Jul 8, 2020 22:41 |
|
I'm sure there's a billion things wrong with this so comment away, how is this build? the whole compare/contrast components is exhausting. quote:PCPartPicker Part List edit: region: belgium double nine fucked around with this message at 09:30 on Jul 9, 2020 |
# ? Jul 8, 2020 23:31 |
|
Hello all, Just a few (hopefully) basic questions. Looking at a new budget build and seeing where I can save time and money. 1. If I have zero plans to overclock my processor will the heat-sink that comes in the box be sufficient? With case fans of course. To note; the case is out in the open with good airflow. 2. Do power supplies need to be replaced? If I am swapping parts around and the power needs don't really change, would it be ok to keep the same power supply? Current power supply was installed 2016. 3. What's a good Intel processor for a modest gaming rig? Sub $200 please. I am currently rocking an i5-6500 and I think it's beginning to show its age. I am deadset on Intel please don't try to convert me to AMD.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 02:01 |
|
Hey fellas, thinking about swapping cases sometime soon before my 10-year-old PSU catches fire and I eventually make a bigger upgrade anyway. I currently have a Fractal Node 304 and have safely come to the conclusion that the SFF lifestyle is not for me, but I'd still like to stay in the general Mini-ITX size realm. Does anyone have experience with the Lian Li PC-TU150, Fractal Define Nano S, NZXT H210, or other 20+ liter Mini-ITX cases and thoughts on what you did and didn't like? Currently leaning toward the version of the Lian Li case without the side window.Action-Bastard posted:2. Do power supplies need to be replaced? If I am swapping parts around and the power needs don't really change, would it be ok to keep the same power supply? Current power supply was installed 2016. What kind of PSU do you have? I've been rocking the same Corsair one for a long time now and I'm concerned about its longevity at this point, but you should be fine if it's decent quality and from 2016. feedback loop fucked around with this message at 02:31 on Jul 9, 2020 |
# ? Jul 9, 2020 02:27 |
|
I can't find the manufacturer name but according to my parts list its a "600w standard 80 plus bronze"
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 03:01 |
|
double nine posted:I'm sure there's a billion things wrong with this so comment away, how is this build? the whole compare/contrast components is exhausting. i'm not nearly as smart/informed/knowledgeable as some people in this thread, but from my amateur perspective, that looks like a pretty solid build to me. also, i noticed you're including a brand new monitor as well, which makes the price of the PC even better.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 03:38 |
|
Action-Bastard posted:I can't find the manufacturer name but according to my parts list its a "600w standard 80 plus bronze" I'd be careful with it going forward, a no-name PSU can crap out and take out other parts with it, but it's impossible to know for certain. The 80+ cert does give me some more hope. Also, to answer another of your questions - the stock Intel cooler is fine but your CPU can definitely get hot with heavy activity.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 03:44 |
|
double nine posted:CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($172.49 @ Walmart) Change the CPU cooler to the Deep Cool Gammaxx 400, SSD to WD Blue NVMe/Black NVMe and the GPU to an RX5700
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 03:51 |
|
Palladium posted:Change the CPU cooler to the Deep Cool Gammaxx 400, SSD to WD Blue NVMe/Black NVMe and the GPU to an RX5700 those all look better, true but changing the gpu would add another €130 euros, does it really make that much of a difference? also, I forgot to add the case, I'm assuming the phantex p300 is still solid?
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 08:13 |
|
double nine posted:those all look better, true but changing the gpu would add another €130 euros, does it really make that much of a difference? Not at that price difference. In the US they're very close. Unless people specify a region or use the country option in pcpp to show prices in your location, it's hard to make recommendations. quote:also, I forgot to add the case, I'm assuming the phantex p300 is still solid? You want the P300A (or P400A). Otherwise no, the plain P3/400 are not great since they have very poor ventilation even for a closed front case. Another budget case that's decent is the fractal Focus G.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 09:20 |
|
apologies, I'm in the place invented for France & Germany to wage their continental wars: Belgium. Added to the original post.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 09:31 |
|
After reading through the recent pages of this thread and doing a bit of research, I'm thinking of going with MikeC's Flex 1080p build as linked in the OP. Since it was last updated 8 months ago, I just wanted to check if there are any changes to the build that would be recommended. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($91.99 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB GAMING OC Video Card ($409.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($80.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($125.99 @ Best Buy) Monitor: LG 27GL83A-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor Total: $1115.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-09 05:05 EDT-0400 Thank you for any advice. I do live near a Microcenter, so that is a retailer option for me.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 10:11 |
|
Gasmask posted:Is there any reliable option to buy Windows 10 licenses other than just paying Microsoft? Even Amazon (which is only a ~10% saving over MS) has a bunch of reviews saying the codes were bogus.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 10:26 |
|
I've finally reached the breaking point where I don't think the i5 2500K processor in my current desktop can carry me any further. Given that I'm the type to have held onto my CPU/Motherboard for almost 9 years now is it fair to say it's worth the price premium to grab the Ryzen 7 3700x over the 3600? I know the gen threes are coming but basically every game I want to play at the moment either barely run or just straight up don't with the current CPU.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 13:46 |
|
Harry Lime posted:I've finally reached the breaking point where I don't think the i5 2500K processor in my current desktop can carry me any further. Given that I'm the type to have held onto my CPU/Motherboard for almost 9 years now is it fair to say it's worth the price premium to grab the Ryzen 7 3700x over the 3600? I know the gen threes are coming but basically every game I want to play at the moment either barely run or just straight up don't with the current CPU. What's your video card/resolution played at? Have you tried overclocking? Like a $35 cooler might let you crank up that K chip enough to buy a few more months of acceptable performance. And if not the cooler could just be moved over to the new PC.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 15:11 |
|
Action-Bastard posted:Hello all, 1. If you're going Intel they usually don't include coolers anymore but generally yes, it will be sufficient. It will likely be very noisy though. 2. As has been said, if it's a no-name one then yes, I wouldn't want to trust one past 4 years out, but YMMV. 3. If you're set on Intel under $200 it's a choice between the 9600k which will give you better game specific performance and the ability to overclock in the future but only 6c/6t, or the 10400 which is 6c/12t but is performance locked and performs slightly worse than the 9600k in gaming specific workloads (it also needs fast RAM to really perform well). It's still hard to recommend either of those when the 3300X and the 3600 are both far better values though...
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 15:18 |
|
|
# ? May 28, 2024 06:48 |
|
sean10mm posted:What's your video card/resolution played at? I've been running it at a 4.2ghz overlock the entire time with a cooler. GPU is a Nvidia GTX 970 and I'm running stuff at 1920x1200. Things like Jedi Fallen Order I had to run with literally everything else closed otherwise I'd get stuttering due to the CPU maxing out. The 2500K has given me almost 9 years of good service and survived 2 cross Pacific moves, it's time for something new and it's just a question of what.
|
# ? Jul 9, 2020 15:28 |