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I wanted some seats where I can sit&lay in my balcony. Bench boards are pine and the frame is made from some wall support beams. Brass screws (copper nails were so expensive), L brackets, 10mm wood "plugs" and lots of glue to keep it together. I bought a small can of white wood wax/oil which was quite not enough... it is possible to add layers later though.   The fit was *very* tight but I am glad it fit without modifications. The benches do not look not very nice but they were very cheap and should be durable. Mattresses are a different problem. A shop wanted 400€ for two of them.. lol. I bought a 73€ 120x200x10cm mattress yesterday and removed the foam. Next I have to cut it to shape, glue some extra padding on top of it and make two "bags" from cloth I bought from IKEA for upholstery. I plan to sew cotton bands to the open end of the bag so I can stuff the foam inside and close the bag with bow knots. Sewing a zipper or anything fancier is pain in the rear end and I want to be able to remove the upholstery and wash them. Budget for these two 140x60x10 and 160x60x10 mattresses is around 130€ DIY. The cloth I bought was IKEA Mettalise. It was very cheap and cotton should work OK in a fully covered balcony. If it rots.. well I'll buy the 4x+ more expensive balcony upholstery cloth then. 
Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 07:58 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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Jul 10, 2020 07:56
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Thanks y'all for the help re glue ups. I did the last few two-by-fours one surface at a time and the bond is tight enough that I'm considering redoing the whole loving top. I'm trying to convince myself to save it for the next project. Next. Lots and lots of planing.
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Jul 10, 2020 08:53
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I know I don't post in here but I have a quick question for those of you who Know Your Wood. I got it in my head to build a shower bench for Ms. Cookies and think little wood benches just look neat. I have access to a table saw, planer, router, sander, etc and the construction seems simple enough (famous last words?) Anyway, my question is this: Are there species of wood I can use for this that aren't going to look like rear end in 3 months? I'm pretty sure this is what teak excels at, right? Most of my googling points toward teak, but there's also recommendations for redwood, cedar, oak(?), and others. And/or are there specific treatments for the wood that would help it resist the cold/dry to hot/wet cycles. I'm sure that will have a lot to do with how any of these woods fare and if needed, I'll slather the whole thing in epoxy like a dang canoe. If this is unfeasible or you think this is not as much a beginner project as it seems, please let me know. I could possibly make a bench from stainless at work if wood is no good. Sorry for the drive-by posting and thanks in advance for any and all answers.
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Jul 10, 2020 14:02
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Ihmemies posted:I wanted some seats where I can sit&lay in my balcony. Bench boards are pine and the frame is made from some wall support beams. Brass screws (copper nails were so expensive), L brackets, 10mm wood "plugs" and lots of glue to keep it together. I bought a small can of white wood wax/oil which was quite not enough... it is possible to add layers later though. Ay dont sell yourself short that looks great and super comfortable, gonna steal some ideas from it so I can get off the lawn
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Jul 10, 2020 15:22
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Rotten Cookies posted:I know I don't post in here but I have a quick question for those of you who Know Your Wood. Definitely not oak, for starters. Cedar will hold up, redwood is better, but I'd be concerned about splinters, since they're soft woods, but maybe that's too cautious. Teak yes, but I think it's endangered. What do the Nordics use in their saunas? Beech? Fir? Also idk about sitting on a slather of epoxy. Ideally untreated wood, a species that can hold up.
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Jul 10, 2020 17:11
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El Mero Mero posted:No that's a good point. Here they are before: I think with the paint on them they do look better than before, but it still bothers me. My issue with it is the holes. The holes make it clear that it's just a hardware store metal L that has been put there, and it doesn't need to be designed like that. A hidden mounting system would be best, and failing that, a bracket without unused screw holes would still look better IMO. Of course, your ability to replace them depends on how they're mounted to the wall. If they're already embedded in concrete or brick and you don't wanna gently caress with that, then yeah you might be stuck with them. If they screw deeply into the mantel wood from below, you might get away with slicing off the front parts? That could work.
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Jul 11, 2020 01:01
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Throw some old-school square nails in those holes.  The black looks miles better. I was also thinking of hidden mounting but it doesn't look like that one is able to.
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Jul 11, 2020 01:09
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Ooh, yeah, some nails like that might save the look.
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Jul 11, 2020 01:11
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Rotten Cookies posted:I know I don't post in here but I have a quick question for those of you who Know Your Wood. I don't know anything about coating it in epoxy, but unless you do a perfect job I can't see it holding up super well over time?
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Jul 11, 2020 01:29
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Or just glue some wood squares over the holes and bang them with a hammer.
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Jul 11, 2020 07:42
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If it's not at risk of standing in water and the bathroom is well-ventilated, you can build your bench from pretty much any wood. Plane the surface, maybe oil it once a year. Just make sure the feet are plastic or metal.
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Jul 11, 2020 09:37
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Stood in the wrong place when cutting cabinet panels on my new saw bench and took a lovely 12mm ply kickback to the gut. Nothing more than a few cuts and scrapes and what will be an UGLY bruise tomorrow but still, this is what happens when you try to save a work piece instead of GTFO of the way.
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Jul 11, 2020 17:35
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I'm just starting out so I'm wood dumb but I got these two from work for a couple of bucks , any idea what kind of wood these are? Ran one through the planer to get a better look at it.   
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Jul 11, 2020 21:51
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I'm no expert, but my guess would be red oak.
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Jul 11, 2020 22:05
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Definitely oak, and it's very nicely quartersawn-that's what makes those cool patterns across the grain. Red oak would be my guess too, but it might be white. It can be hard to tell them apart from a picture. Does it smell good like bourbon whiskey and vanilla or does it smell like sweat and dog poo poo? Whiskey= white oak, dog poo poo=red oak. If you make a clean cut on the endgrain and take a picture, that can help too. Red oak has much more open pores on the endgrain than white oak. This is a good article: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/distinguishing-red-oak-from-white-oak/
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Jul 11, 2020 22:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Does it smell good like bourbon whiskey and vanilla or does it smell like sweat and dog poo poo? Whiskey= white oak, dog poo poo=red oak. Not actual dog poo poo though, of course.
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Jul 11, 2020 23:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Those are indeed oak. What you are calling wicker is usually called caning and that may help your googling-those are caned chair seats. You can get the caning in sheets and replace it if you want. There is usually a spline that you pound into a groove that holds it together, or sometimes the caning goes in little holes all around. You can probably buy the splines too. You could add an upholstered slip seat or something on top of that, but it may wind up being higher than is comfortable. Maybe set a pillow on top of one and see if it feels right. I’m not sure a flat wooden seat would be all that comfortable, but a stick a board across the top and see how it sits. Thank you. My brain refused to find any word for that except wicker and google was not helping without better terminology. Since I don't have to weave the caning myself I might just do that, although the area that is splined is sort of beat to crap so it might be difficult to repair it. As far as putting a solid seat on it, I had considered doing some shaping with my sander to give it a bit of a depression to more comfortably cradle my rear end. I've never tried either of those things though, I guess it'll be exciting regardless of which path I take. Trying to match the wood seems like something that is really difficult and maybe impossible, so maybe I should just accept that it's going to be different and run with that if I decide to put something in there that isn't caning.
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Jul 11, 2020 23:52
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm no expert, but my guess would be red oak. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Definitely oak, and it's very nicely quartersawn-that's what makes those cool patterns across the grain. Red oak would be my guess too, but it might be white. It can be hard to tell them apart from a picture. Does it smell good like bourbon whiskey and vanilla or does it smell like sweat and dog poo poo? Whiskey= white oak, dog poo poo=red oak. If you make a clean cut on the endgrain and take a picture, that can help too. Red oak has much more open pores on the endgrain than white oak. Here's a picture of the endgrain, from all the picture's I looked at the examples of Red Oak have a ton of open holes compared to this with all its clogged up holes. 
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Jul 12, 2020 00:03
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serious gaylord posted:Stood in the wrong place when cutting cabinet panels on my new saw bench and took a lovely 12mm ply kickback to the gut. So the little motor on that thing, that's a good thing in this case. It really could have hosed you up to the E.R. Broken pelvis, pierced gut, any number of things. hitze posted:I'm just starting out so I'm wood dumb but I got these two from work for a couple of bucks , any idea what kind of wood these are? Ran one through the planer to get a better look at it. Definitely quartersawn oak as the man says, and my vote is white. You'll notice a lot of nice furniture and even upright pianos from the 19th century has that distinctive striping of quartesawn oak. And red oak smells like a barnyard. Not dogshit.
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Jul 12, 2020 01:17
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hitze posted:Thank you fellas! Endgrain is maybe making me vote white too. Smell is the best tell imo. I really love the story those rings tell. Tight, tight, tight, rings as a baby tree growing in shade under competition, then a storm comes or some logging happens with a nice wet spring/summer and two huuuuuuge growth ring as it shoots up into the sun, but then all it's neighbors catch up and it slows down again. Wood is neat.
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Jul 12, 2020 01:40
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Mr. Mambold posted:So the little motor on that thing, that's a good thing in this case. It really could have hosed you up to the E.R. Broken pelvis, pierced gut, any number of things. It's only 1 HP! You ever get kicked by a horse?
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Jul 12, 2020 03:57
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serious gaylord posted:Stood in the wrong place when cutting cabinet panels on my new saw bench and took a lovely 12mm ply kickback to the gut. Hopefully this is a lesson you only need to learn once, I'm glad you're okay and it wasn't more serious. (invest in featherboards esp. for sheet stock) I learned the lesson to keep my hands the gently caress away from spinning blades twice, when I was about 9-10 my paternal grandfather lost his index finger to a table saw. Then when I was 16 my dad cut about 1/5 into the top of his pinky. (use blade guards and set the height on both the blade and guard every cut) My dad also taught me another lesson at 17, he was working on his trailbike and it fell off the stand and the footpeg gashed open his upper arm, fat was spilling out while I drove him to the hospital with my learners permit.
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Jul 12, 2020 04:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:So the little motor on that thing, that's a good thing in this case. It really could have hosed you up to the E.R. Broken pelvis, pierced gut, any number of things. I'm glad I built the saw top as high as I did. Originally it was going to be lower and I'd have copped it right in the balls. I am very aware of how lucky I am. It's the first proper kickback I've ever had. Never had one when I was working on the boats. I just got lazy
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Jul 12, 2020 06:22
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The junk collector posted:It's only 1 HP! Have you ever seen a grown man naked, Timmy? I know what HP it is. It's tiny for a table saw. I've had kickbacks. Was ripping a long narrow piece one time and the saw just launched it right past me like a spear. I was just lucky. poo poo just happens over time. Buddy of mine did the same thing as Serious Gaylord with a piece of 1/4" plywood, but with a bigger motor. It hairline fractured his pelvis.
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Jul 12, 2020 14:00
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Mr. Mambold posted:Have you ever seen a grown man naked, Timmy? I know what HP it is. It's tiny for a table saw. I've had kickbacks. Was ripping a long narrow piece one time and the saw just launched it right past me like a spear. I was just lucky. poo poo just happens over time. I'm not trying to make fun of anyone, especially as I've had my own share of tool related injuries. While I've never been directly injured by my table saw, I have had to patch sheet-rock from it while doing some house work. Just glad no one got seriously hurt here.
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Jul 12, 2020 15:19
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The junk collector posted:I'm not trying to make fun of anyone, especially as I've had my own share of tool related injuries. While I've never been directly injured by my table saw, I have had to patch sheet-rock from it while doing some house work. Just glad no one got seriously hurt here. I get your concern, and you're right, 1 HP is enough to do serious damage.
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Jul 12, 2020 15:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:Have you ever seen a grown man naked, Timmy? I know what HP it is. It's tiny for a table saw. I've had kickbacks. Was ripping a long narrow piece one time and the saw just launched it right past me like a spear. I was just lucky. poo poo just happens over time. 1/4" plywood was my only tablesaw kickback too! Sure scares you. I think thin floppy things are more likely to ride up over the blade and then bad things happen. The corner stabbed me in the gut and broke skin-be careful. 
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Jul 12, 2020 15:49
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All you people talking about kickbacks, you have riving knives or not?
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Jul 12, 2020 16:18
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When I got it, I did not. It was an older table saw. A real beast circa 1965. No riving knife, and I was cutting with the blade tilted to 45 degrees, which it did toward the fence, so it got pinched reeeaaal good, and the piece was just the right weight to get maximum launch into my torso.
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Jul 12, 2020 17:09
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Is there a reason that circular saws don't have riving knives?
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Jul 12, 2020 17:41
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Bad Munki posted:When I got it, I did not. It was an older table saw. A real beast circa 1965. No riving knife, and I was cutting with the blade tilted to 45 degrees, which it did toward the fence, so it got pinched reeeaaal good, and the piece was just the right weight to get maximum launch into my torso. That's the scary poo poo right there. That's also about the age my table saw is. Boice-Crane. Sockser posted:Is there a reason that circular saws don't have riving knives? Everything is different is why.
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Jul 12, 2020 17:47
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Sockser posted:Is there a reason that circular saws don't have riving knives? They don't launch wood, same goes for your miter saw. You are in control of both the power to the blade and the tool itself. Besides most modern circular saws have a stop mechanism in the motor when it feels resistance in any way.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:07
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Both circular saws I've owned have some sort of riving knife?
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Jul 12, 2020 18:23
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cakesmith handyman posted:Both circular saws I've owned have some sort of riving knife? Europeans get the fancy stuff. In the US we get to find out what a deductible is.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:All you people talking about kickbacks, you have riving knives or not? I actually own a table saw with a riving knife for the first time ever as of last weekend.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:1/4" plywood was my only tablesaw kickback too! Sure scares you. I think thin floppy things are more likely to ride up over the blade and then bad things happen. The corner stabbed me in the gut and broke skin-be careful. Its literally the same as mine! His Divine Shadow posted:All you people talking about kickbacks, you have riving knives or not? I took mine off to do some angled half laps and never put it back on.
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Jul 12, 2020 21:59
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So I am seeing a trend here. I have never had a kickback in 6 years now and I have my riving knife permanently mounted. The worst thing I ever ripped was probably 50 meters of wet stock, at 45 degrees with a blade that tilts towards the fence. When I made enough french cleats to cover most of the garages walls. I wouldn't need to take it off to make angled half laps either, it sits below the top of the blade so it never gets in the way. I can only assume you have one of these big bulky models that get in the way instead of a sleek model like this:  But nothing an angle grinder cannot fix. I would go as far as classify those styles as "defective" and "dangerous". I guess it's nice with the dust collection on some but I would rather have the non intrusive riving knife.
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Jul 13, 2020 05:59
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Would poplar be an ok wood to use for a tenon wedge or should I use something harder?
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Jul 13, 2020 20:07
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His Divine Shadow posted:So I am seeing a trend here. I have never had a kickback in 6 years now and I have my riving knife permanently mounted. The worst thing I ever ripped was probably 50 meters of wet stock, at 45 degrees with a blade that tilts towards the fence. When I made enough french cleats to cover most of the garages walls. Ripping wet wood never has presented a problem to me. It's not had baked in stress like some badly done kiln jobs. I like your setup, but idk if my antique beast could be retrofitted. I don't disdain the notion of a riving knife at all. Also, it's been over 6 year since my last kickback, but I've been using table saws (not so much any more) since 1971......
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Jul 13, 2020 20:26
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riving knife + blade cover, always. the only way it can kick back is if it binds something against the fence that you didnt push all the way through with your push stick.
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Jul 13, 2020 21:19
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