|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:I am 100% with you, the book (which I will look up when I'm back home) makes a big deal out of the last 10' tree to ever go through the mill. 10' Doug fir would be a monster of a straight tree to see ga drat. It's part of the reason I enjoy keeping a chainsaw in my rig and asking people if they don't mind me grabbing a chunk to carve up whenever I see wood left to rot. There's a good size silver maple and a big oak (white I think) around the corner that got broken up by high winds last week. That oak may have 1k bft, and they're both going to the recycle dump. I texted my son in law about them because he's into the notion of almost free if you take it to be milled hardwood. But, yeah pics of giant redwoods with dumb peckerwoods standing on them triumphantly just makes me shake my head too....
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 15:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 17:47 |
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:There's a good size silver maple and a big oak (white I think) around the corner that got broken up by high winds last week. That oak may have 1k bft, and they're both going to the recycle dump. I texted my son in law about them because he's into the notion of almost free if you take it to be milled hardwood. But, yeah pics of giant redwoods with dumb peckerwoods standing on them triumphantly just makes me shake my head too.... No doubt. I would totally jump on that. I should amend my post to say that like leperfish said the other day I believe it's super important to not just Take All Wood from the forest obviously it's very important to let most of it break down. I've had to cut some "big" trees down before and it didn't feel very good or right to do, can't imagine how loving trash I'd feel if I cut a 450 year old tree down.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 16:06
|
|
|
There’s a 60’ black cherry with at least 10’ of straight and branchless 14” trunk in my back yard, and a nasty rainstorm a year or so back loosened the roots so it’s pulling out and trying to fall down (the whole thing is on a fairly steep slope.) I’ll be sad to see the tree go, but that’s gonna be a sweet chunk of wood.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 16:12
|
|
|
His Divine Shadow posted:I made two three legged stools for my kids and I just drilled a straight hole. Drilled with bit and brace and used a sliding bevel to indicate I was drilling the right angle. No special tools required. But if I don't use tapered tenons, how will Schwarz-sama notice me?  Joking aside, I guess you used cylindrical tenons? Did you make them on a lathe? I think an advantage to the tapered tenons is they're simple to make and more forgiving (i.e. if you don't have or are bad at using a lathe). At some point along the length of the tenon, it will match the width of the mortise, so you don't need to be very precise with the tools. Whereas with a cylindrical tenon/mortise, you have to get the width of your tenon fairly precise to match the mortise width to get a good glue joint. Anyway yeah, either way works, it's a dead simple joint.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 16:19
|
|
|
I used a spokeshave actually, I split the tenon and drive in a wedge as well from the top which spreads the tenon and makes it fit more snugly even if not perfectly made. That and glue gave it a good and secure fit. I cut it flush and sanded it afterwards. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnD0sUM7KAY
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 18:12
|
|
|
This video on making a chair from a tree in a day had a neat technique for staked construction, though sadly it only really works with wet wood. They stuck the end of the tenon in hot sand, which dried it out. Then they sized the mortise in the wet wood to match the size of the tenon. As the wood dries, it shrinks, causing it to hold the tenon snug.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 19:09
|
|
|
I got a new Grizzly #4 plane, because I saw some reviews that said it was actually really solid for very cheap. Today I flattened the sole (honestly didn't take much, it was pretty flat out of box), lapped the back of the iron, sharpened the iron to a 25 degree primary bevel and put a 30 degree microbevel on it. I haven't done anything with the chipbreaker other than set it about 1/32" back from the edge of the iron. This is my first bevel-down plane, so I've never dealt with a chipbreaker before. The iron itself is sharp enough to shave my arm, but I can't get a shaving from the plane. I'll back off the depth adjuster until there's no contact, then inch it forward a 1/4 turn until it starts making contact. Even on the first setting with contact, it's basically just scraping the surface and making tiny chips/dust that clog the mouth. edit: didn't ask a question Do I need to flatten/adjust the chipbreaker in some way so it actually makes a shaving, or is there a problem somewhere else?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 19:12
|
|
|
If the breaker edge is flush against the iron, there's no need to flatten it. If you're dealing with something prone to tear-out you could try 1/64. What kind of wood are you planing? Different woods may require different settings. I assume you're planing along the grain? Edit: could you post a picture of how your plane's set up? anatomi fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jul 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 19:39
|
|
|
anatomi posted:If the breaker edge is flush against the iron, there's no need to flatten it. If you're dealing with something prone to tear-out you could try 1/64. I'm just testing the setup so I'm just planing the edge of a pretty straight piece of radiata pine. My block plane has no trouble getting a perfectly smooth surface on it. Chipbreaker bevel set a little less than 1/32":  From the side, it does look like there's a gap, which is probably what's causing the clogging. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 20:09
|
|
|
more falafel please posted:I got a new Grizzly #4 plane, because I saw some reviews that said it was actually really solid for very cheap. Today I flattened the sole (honestly didn't take much, it was pretty flat out of box), lapped the back of the iron, sharpened the iron to a 25 degree primary bevel and put a 30 degree microbevel on it. I haven't done anything with the chipbreaker other than set it about 1/32" back from the edge of the iron. This is my first bevel-down plane, so I've never dealt with a chipbreaker before. more falafel please posted:From the side, it does look like there's a gap, which is probably what's causing the clogging. The chip breaker was the problem on mine. The way it is set up, there's a gap between the blade and it at the front and it just jammed material in there. I ground the bevel side until that was gone using a bevel guide. Edit: Also make sure the back of the blade is actually flat and that no light shines through between it and the chip breaker. Here's an example of just a touch of light on a chip breaker I whipped into the ground and dented the edge on so it is not flat against the blade. This cuts fine at first, but I get chatter and broken shavings after a few strokes as the smallest fibers get stuck in there and it builds up a nest. 
Bondematt fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jul 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 20:49
|
|
|
Is it normal for cut maple to smell like its burning? I'm doing a project with some and made a few test cuts, and after I took my respirator off the whole shop smelled like burned wood. My miter saw blade is plenty sharp and there were no burn marks on any of the fairly clean cuts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 01:47
|
|
|
In my experience maple burns/singes stupidly easily.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 01:54
|
|
|
Yeah, maple is really easy to burn. I think it has to do with the density and hardness, which are both pretty high. Purpleheart has similar properties and also burns pretty easily.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 01:58
|
|
|
Can it be burning even though there's no burn marks on the work pieces? It is heavy as gently caress though, I keep doing a doubletake when I pick up the stock after working with cheap pine or at most poplar, which look pretty similar.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 02:08
|
|
|
I find maple and cherry both burn pretty easily. Oak not as much. Maybe it being more porous lets heat escape the surface more quickly or something? I assembled the headboard for my construction lumber bed frame tonight. I also got the side rails done and have the pieces for the footer cut up and almost ready to assemble. I'll do that tomorrow. Then comes the detail work. I have to run the router over the edges to get rid of the telltale 2-by rounded edges, then sanding and painting.  I'm putting a 45 degree chamfer on all the edges. I used lag bolts to attach the sides to the headboard. Using the wandell method (https://woodgears.ca/shop-tricks/endgrain_screw.html) of drilling a hole and putting a dowel in to give the lag bolts something to grab instead of just end grain. We moved across the country this spring so my power tool selection is very limited right now. Hand drill, circular saw, small router, random orbital sander. Going to try out milk paint for the first time once I get this thing built. Should be fun
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 02:18
|
|
|
When I had a bandsaw I switched to a metal cutting blade to cut maple with. The wood cutting blades I had would always burn it. It was just a lovely table top saw though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 02:19
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:I find maple and cherry both burn pretty easily. Oak not as much. Maybe it being more porous lets heat escape the surface more quickly or something? you're routing the edges after assembly? Your inside corners will be curved.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 04:45
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:you're routing the edges after assembly? Your inside corners will be curved. No I'm doing that part before I put it together, thankfully I thought of that beforehand
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 14:11
|
|
|
Built a garage storage cabinet for my mate. All made from Plywood. The piece that kicked back on me is in this photo!    
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2020 23:02
|
|
|
I'm making a logo\sign for my wife to go in the coming newborns nursery. Got the idea from following @houseoftimber on instagram https://www.instagram.com/thehouseoftimber/?hl=en 3 questions. Any general tips on things to look out for? The painting always looks SO good. I have a sprayer but I ordered an airbrush and a couple packs of acrylic paint trying to get close to the color palette I need. Is there any better option I should look into? any sort of top coat that should go on over the paint? 3. At first I was just gonna use a plywood circle as the base, and put everything on that, everything being cut out of 1/4 inch wood except some places I needed it further raised, but I've got some quarter inch fiber board I usually use for drawer bottoms that seems like it would work well since I'm not in love with wood grain showing through the paint. Any better ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 02:12
|
|
|
Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality clear finish? Someone recommended Emmet's Good Stuff which looks fantastic but seems to not be in stock anywhere at the moment. I'd like to stick with a gel like Emmet's if possible but I have projects that need finishing and I'd rather not wait for it to reappear.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 19:43
|
|
|
Hey woodworkers. Novicetown USA over here. I DIY'd a bunch of beechwood butcher block desks for my vast collection of heavy old computer crud. Fun and cost effective, I learned a ton. Legs are attached with hanger bolts and plates. Turns out these kinda suck butt, however they did make getting the tables to the 3rd floor much easier. Loaded up with weight and I've got some wobbles. There's a lot of physics happening here and my brain is frying trying to discern what's happening and the best/easiest potential fix. The legs seem nearly stationary at the feet, and rigid with the table at the top plate. https://imgur.com/a/AxAJzhm https://imgur.com/a/dbyJbNo What do you think is actually "wobbling" here? I thought for sure it would be the hanger bolts, but maybe not? Are the legs themselves (ash legs from the 'depot) flexing under the force? I get this feeling the 60lb butcher block + 120lbs of stuff is exerting huge amounts of force when bumped. It's much more minor when the table is unloaded. I'm thinking about bracing the tables to the walls/studs. Is that a good idea? Or am I better off looking at reinforcing the legs somehow? Next time I suppose I will try for more of a "real build" with actual aprons or something more legit; I think I might have died trying to attempt that on my already-lofty "let's put together and finish 5 tables with zero experience" plan  Bonus shots of all five tables, which I am proud of despite their amateurishness. (And hey, I can always reuse the finished tops if these legs don't work out.)  
admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Jul 23, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 02:08
|
|
|
That's just wood doing wood stuff. Just put in aprons. Get a kreg jig, measure twice cut once, test fit before you drill. Go at least 4 inches, unless you built it in such a way that a 4-inch front apron goes so low that you can't get your legs under. Don't do that. The look really nice but you are going to have one fall apart on you sooner rather than later. Take all the weight off of them until you get them fixed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 02:29
|
|
|
You need to add some stretchers between the legs. A stretcher is a board the runs horizontally between two legs. It will add a lot of stability.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 02:32
|
|
|
Thanks - I'll look into both of those options. 4" is probably too low for a front apron  but 2 or 3 might be OK. I'd rather not disrupt the storage space below the tables too much (will be needed) if I can help it, so stretchers would be best towards the top if viable. Could bracing to the wall be a viable solution, at least as a holdover until I can build them up better (I would not be sad to revisit in a year)? Or am I risking destruction? Thinking: screw some wood into the underside of the tabletop near the wall, screw some wood into studs or windowframe, add some L-braces between the woods. edit: apologies for asking about bolting tables to the wall to compensate for poor design in the woodworking thread, lol. Though TBH I would not be sad at all to have this room outfitted with ultra-stable tables with lots of unobstructed free space underneath, if all it takes is some holes in the wall - is this a pipe dream? admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jul 23, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 02:53
|
|
|
Yes you could bolt them to the wall, that would be fine. Some kind of metal shelf bracket to the wall or as a corner brace is probably easiest/cheapest. You need some triangles, basically.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 03:38
|
|
|
Thanks - I think I'm gonna give that a shot for the four in the computer room/workshop. The dark-stained one is in my office and I think I will try to make that one into a nicer piece of furniture. Fixing one up is much less daunting than doing five right now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 03:57
|
|
|
I feel like those mounts are also having a bit of flex.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 06:36
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:I feel like those mounts are also having a bit of flex. if I'm not mistaken, those screw-on mounts are intended for round legs that have a recessed sleeve that snugs up onto the bracket itself, not sitting proud just touching at the bolt. They're definitely better that way, but still not super sturdy against racking forces. If you don't want to find new legs, a little 1x apron all the way around fastened with some pocket screws will help enormously. Captain Organ fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Jul 23, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 19:48
|
|
|
Huxley posted:If you just want something functional, particularly with drawers (which can be tough), there's nothing wrong with just buying Ikea and moving on with your life. Eg, two of these side by side https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/micke-desk-white-90214308/ This is what I have, but as I mentioned, it's supporting 2 computer monitors, with 2 very full drawers, and quite noticeably bowed in the center. Would getting a shorter length of desk (which also appears to have more structural support?) solve that issue with the particle board bending? I don't care about getting "genuine" wood or whatever, I just want something I can use for more than a few years before it gets bent to all hell. Reading about the wobbly desk up above is making me realize the IKEA "desk hack" of tacking on some legs to a countertop may be more trouble than it's worth.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
mds2 posted:You need to add some stretchers between the legs. A stretcher is a board the runs horizontally between two legs. It will add a lot of stability. I've got a 3/4" cedar veneered ply board on order from home depot that I plan to put 4 Ikea ALVARET legs on. In my head I am thinking of creating an "H" pattern from maybe 1-2" thick wood connected via lap joints and then glued screwed to the MDF and then attaching the legs to the tops and bottoms of the "H". I am trying to go for decent stability and anti-flex for a table that will see some hobby painting/modelling/gaming so I'd like to rest my forearms on the table without it flexing (noticeably/much) without taking up a bunch of undertable room so I can flail my legs about madly without hitting my knees on table supports. Is my idea good, bad, could be better?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 22:05
|
|
|
I think you are talking about stretchers? Those help to hold legs stiffly and give some stability, but are not as effective at preventing racking.  In this example, the stretchers are down low, but what's labeled as a "box apron" is preventing the racking. e, there are designs that don't need aprons:  In this design, the way the stretchers are tied together, and the very wide size of the stretcher boards on each end, result in a stable structure that resists racking in each direction. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Jul 23, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 22:48
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I think you are talking about stretchers? Those help to hold legs stiffly and give some stability, but are not as effective at preventing racking. This is what I had in mind. But I would also add a third stretcher between the back legs if it is going to be against a wall. Edit: Also the tables look great. Woodworking and furniture making is an endless learning process.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 13:44
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:I think you are talking about stretchers? Those help to hold legs stiffly and give some stability, but are not as effective at preventing racking. Not sure if you were replying to my post or not but here is a crude mspaint from an internet image I pulled to give a rough idea of what I'm planning.  The legs I have on order are these metal ones, Ikea Alvaret so they will only attach at the top.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 17:56
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Not sure if you were replying to my post or not but here is a crude mspaint from an internet image I pulled to give a rough idea of what I'm planning. I was. And yeah, that's gonna wobble some. The robustness and stiffness of those brackets may help a bit, but each table leg is basically a long lever, and leverage is a superpowerful mechanical advantage. Without aprons or stretchers or angled bracing of any kind, you're relying entirely on the stiffness and that probably won't be enough. You can improve things if you shove the table hard into a corner, so that it's got two walls bracing it. That might be enough to keep it from moving around too much. Also I'm doing some guesswork: variables like leg length, leg thickness and material, total weight on the top, etc. will all affect the total stability of the structure. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Jul 24, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 19:47
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Not sure if you were replying to my post or not but here is a crude mspaint from an internet image I pulled to give a rough idea of what I'm planning. That setups is going to wobble, and those prefabbed legs aren't going to give you a lot of ways to improve stability, without like, welding on some supports or something. 90 degree angles want to either be obtuse or acute; you need to make that 90 integral to other triangles to keep those inclinations at bay.  The bottom one is kind of a lark; it would still wobble, but the braces in the back would add more stability overall.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 21:37
|
|
|
I have probably a week or more before the Ikea order ships so I can cancel it easily. Do ya'll have any suggestions for better legs to use/build? I was liking the metal look but can be fine with wood, really I was just trying to avoid having to build an entire wooden leg & brace assembly. My current table is a folding plastic one with pretty weak metal legs and locking pieces, it certainly wobbles if you mess with it but I'm pretty much sitting at it being super chill so it's not an issue. With that said I don't want to build a table that sucks rear end. I've build a computer desk before that has held up well and I've also built the Matthias wandel workbench (from goon advice here), to give an idea as to my skill capability. I guess I could just scale down the workbench legs and build those? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 00:13
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:I have probably a week or more before the Ikea order ships so I can cancel it easily. Do ya'll have any suggestions for better legs to use/build? https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/idasen-underframe-for-table-top-dark-gray-80397916/ Friend used that one and piece of 3/4 ply. Plenty sturdy from what I have seen.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 00:17
|
|
|
I was browsing FB marketplace for some offcuts and stumbled onto this. Wild. http://imgur.com/gallery/XAILwTO Is this a "my grandad was a crazy inventor" kind of situation, or are there proper examples of tablesaw/drill combos?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 00:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 17:47 |
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/idasen-underframe-for-table-top-dark-gray-80397916/ That looks perfect if a bit more cash but it's not like I'm spending money on vacations this year  Ordered and cancelled the legs, thanks goons.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 00:30
|
|