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As someone who started with a cheap airbrush and then got a H&S Evolution, I must say that the biggest step up was a floating nozzle. A big thing that’s not screwed in, the difference is enormous! I’m still a beginner but cleaning the nozzle is the hardest and it not being tiny helps a lot. Also a you won’t break the floating nozzle trying to screw it in place. Also a cheap ultrasonic cleaner was totally worth it.
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Jul 27, 2020 08:47
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zokie posted:Also a cheap ultrasonic cleaner was totally worth it. Go on...
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Jul 27, 2020 09:04
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You can do just fine with the cheap airbrush that comes with the Master compressor. It's not as good as a badger, but it's enough to figure out if you're interested in something better. If you spray acrylics you can get away with just a particulate mask. And eyepro that doesn't seal against your face isn't doing poo poo against aerosolized paint. You can easily make your own spray booth. Just look at pictures of one and imitate that shape with a cardboard box. I don't know what the lighting in your house is like, but if you or someone you live with are the type to only use soft white bulbs you'll probably want to pick up a bulb or two that's closer to sunlight so you aren't trying to match colors with everything tinted yellow.
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Jul 27, 2020 12:59
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zokie posted:Also a cheap ultrasonic cleaner was totally worth it. I kinda have to admit that I've had a much better experience when I more or less stopped deep-cleaning my airbrushes. I used to take them all apart at the end of every session and deep clean every nook and cranny. Inevitably, I'd not do a good enough job, and some particle of paint would block up the nozzle and I'd have to repeat the disassembly and cleaning processes all over again. I stumbled across a video from Paul Budzik where he stated he didn't deep clean all that often. So, I pretty much just clean out the visible paint, back blast a little thinner to clean out the nozzle, and then spray clean thinner through the brush. I have had almost zero issues with my brush since starting that routine. Only when I do something stupid like let paint dry in the cup, do I need to do a deep cleaning. I know it goes against the "most airbrushing problems are due to dirty airbrushes" but I absolutely swear by my less-is-more method now. Edit: I'm running a pair of Iwata HP-CS Eclipses. One is 6 years old, the other is 6 months old. I've never taken the latter apart and I've used it dozens of times. Chuck_D fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jul 27, 2020 |
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Jul 27, 2020 21:53
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Gewehr 43 posted:I kinda have to admit that I've had a much better experience when I more or less stopped deep-cleaning my airbrushes. I used to take them all apart at the end of every session and deep clean every nook and cranny. Inevitably, I'd not do a good enough job, and some particle of paint would block up the nozzle and I'd have to repeat the disassembly and cleaning processes all over again. I stumbled across a video from Paul Budzik where he stated he didn't deep clean all that often. So, I pretty much just clean out the visible paint, back blast a little thinner to clean out the nozzle, and then spray clean thinner through the brush. I have had almost zero issues with my brush since starting that routine. Only when I do something stupid like let paint dry in the cup, do I need to do a deep cleaning. This is my experience as well. It could be because I spray lacquer almost exclusively though which tends to clean up a lot more easily. My feeling is that I'm far more likely to have trouble that is caused by mishandling during the cleaning process than by a build up of paint. I managed to prove this by bending a needle tip last time I actually did a deep clean on my airbrushes.
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Jul 27, 2020 23:58
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Most of my clogs are usually due to big paint globs stuck in the nozzle, it's usually easy to tell if I'll need to disassemble after spraying or if I can just shoot a few cups of cleaner and wipe down the needle.
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Jul 28, 2020 00:15
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I've had an Iwata HP-CS and Badger Sotar 20/20 for a few years and don't think I've ever disassembled either of them beyond removing the needle. I also spray lacquers almost exclusively. For a while I wasn't even removing the needle when cleaning - just backflushing the cup and spraying straight lacquer thinner, but I would have problems with the needle sticking the next time I went to use it. Now, I dump some lacquer thinner in the cup, back flush it, then wipe the cup out while it is still half full of thinner. Then remove the needle, squirt more lacquer thinner into the cup and tilt it forward and back so it flows up and down the needle passage. Dump what's left of the thinner in the cup onto a paper towel and use that to wipe off the needle. Reinsert the needle, spray out whatever lacquer thinner is left in there and call it done. Takes about a minute or two. That is a huge improvement over when I used to spray acrylics out of a siphon feed Badger 150. I'd have to tear that down and get in there with the little brushes and the cup was an additional pain in the rear end to clean. It was so time consuming that it really put me off of airbrushing. Also, with the Badger 150 (and maybe others) they recommend against removing the nozzle unless absolutely necessary because the head seal can permanently deform if it is recompressed too many times.
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Jul 28, 2020 00:32
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Yeah cleaning is definitely the best part of spraying lacquers or alcohol-based acrylics. I have a .4mm single action airbrush dedicated to primers and metallics. I deep clean it more often than my main airbrush since some primers (stynylrez) are extremely stubborn. This means I dont have to take my .3/.18mm apart as often.
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Jul 28, 2020 06:33
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I got inspired by Angel Giraldez who if you don’t know has an awesome YouTube channel now. My cleaning process is quite simple, I rinse out any paint and wipe it off, then remove the nozzle cap, nozzle, cup, and needle putting everything, including the body in the ultrasonic cleaner for a few minutes. Then I wipe it off again, use the little nozzle cleaning tool to make sure that it doesn’t have paint left in it. I might use a Q-tip to clean out the “barrel”. Using the cleaner removes a lot of work, and gives peace of mind. Having a floating nozzle that can be cleaned with a proper tool is great, I’m never going back to the tiny screwed in nozzles again.
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Jul 28, 2020 08:47
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That's honestly overkill but hey if it works for you it works. Id be a little worried about stripping out any lubricants in the body of the airbrush with the constant ultrasonic cleaning though. As far as the screw in nozzles go, many top of the line airbrushes still use them. Mostly comes down to preference but I don't think they're too much of a hassle to clean.
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Jul 28, 2020 17:20
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Does anyone have a link to the Hi-Mock bathroom diorama a goon made a few years ago? I can't seem to find it anywhere.
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Jul 28, 2020 19:12
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Symetrique posted:That's honestly overkill but hey if it works for you it works. Id be a little worried about stripping out any lubricants in the body of the airbrush with the constant ultrasonic cleaning though. That reminds me, how often and where should I be oiling the needle on my P105 ?
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Jul 28, 2020 19:39
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Kibner posted:Does anyone have a link to the Hi-Mock bathroom diorama a goon made a few years ago? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Unkempt posted:
this guy?
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Jul 28, 2020 19:39
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Yesssss!!! Thanks!
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Jul 28, 2020 21:05
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mllaneza posted:That reminds me, how often and where should I be oiling the needle on my P105 ? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw This is the technique I use. You'll have to tweak it a bit since the patriot has the stopper at the end of the needle, so you cant do the reverse insertion thing. If you're dunking the whole airbrush in an ultrasonic cleaner, you should also be lubricating the air valve spring, needle spring, and trigger too probably. The air valve spring comes lubricated from the factory and requires a special tool to pop open as well.
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Jul 28, 2020 21:17
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Is there a good site to look at non military plastic scale models? I used to make planes and tanks but twenty years of living the military life has burnt me out on anything related it.
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Jul 28, 2020 21:24
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Hekk posted:Is there a good site to look at non military plastic scale models? I used to make planes and tanks but twenty years of living the military life has burnt me out on anything related it. If you specifically want plastic models, CultTVManShop is an excellent shop offering just a out every sci-fi/dinosaur/monster/etc kit out there. Lots of unique product you won't find elsewhere.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:20
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you specifically want plastic models, CultTVManShop is an excellent shop offering just a out every sci-fi/dinosaur/monster/etc kit out there. Lots of unique product you won't find elsewhere. This is awesome! Thanks much. I appreciate the link.
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Jul 28, 2020 22:28
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Hekk posted:Is there a good site to look at non military plastic scale models? I used to make planes and tanks but twenty years of living the military life has burnt me out on anything related it. Spotmodel and hiroboy are good for cars and based in Europe. 1999 or plaza japan are also good and based in Japan so I don’t tend to get stuff from them because they changed the tax rules and things are more expensive as a result.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:33
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Symetrique posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulWFoG5Inmw Thank you. And boy, talk about being in it for the inhalants. Dude loves his solvents.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:42
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Blue Footed Booby posted:If you spray acrylics you can get away with just a particulate mask. And eyepro that doesn't seal against your face isn't doing poo poo against aerosolized paint. Im seeing a lot of people cutting up boxes or plastic bins and adding air ducts and extractors, is that needed when working with acrylics?
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Jul 29, 2020 00:03
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PacoPepe posted:Im seeing a lot of people cutting up boxes or plastic bins and adding air ducts and extractors, is that needed when working with acrylics? Yeah. You definitely want a spray booth regardless of what type of paint you're airbrushing. It helps catch all of the overspray and a filter will help prevent acrylic dust from getting everywhere.
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Jul 29, 2020 00:24
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Andys hobby HQ is gonna start selling their last batch of WNW kits 10am on Friday.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:08
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PacoPepe posted:Im seeing a lot of people cutting up boxes or plastic bins and adding air ducts and extractors, is that needed when working with acrylics? If you want to buy a spray booth instead of going home-made, the bog standard unit most hobbyists use the Master Airbrush Spray Booth, seen below. This this is ubiquitous as gently caress, seemingly every company in china sells their own rebranded version. They typically sell for about $120, although I've seen them as low as $50 from time to time. They are various versions, some in packs of two booths, some with LED light addons, some with or without tube venting, etc etc. Hunt around and you can find one for cheap probably, or just go to the Amazon link below for a capable unit. I use two of them myself stood vertically side to side, so it gives me double width and good height as well, for larger garage kits. https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbr...95989051&sr=8-1 
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Jul 29, 2020 03:24
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I got the one with the LED lights and I'm really glad I did. That corner of the apartment is poorly lit after dark, and even with the sun out you can always use more lught.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:36
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https://www.amazon.com/OPHIR-Airbru...95990243&sr=8-2 There's also this version that has two fans in one housing.
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Jul 29, 2020 03:37
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mllaneza posted:you can always use more lught.
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Jul 29, 2020 06:04
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Get some big overhead LED shoplights. Locator turned me on to these lights, and they've been a godsend. (good lord, look at my babby setup compared to now, 5 years goes by so fast) 
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Jul 29, 2020 06:26
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mllaneza posted:I got the one with the LED lights and I'm really glad I did. That corner of the apartment is poorly lit after dark, and even with the sun out you can always use more lught. I got the one with the led light strip and it’s never worked right. I just got a pair of proper desk lamps on both sides now.
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Jul 29, 2020 06:38
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Get some big overhead LED shoplights. Locator turned me on to these lights, and they've been a godsend. Those lights are awesome, I still love them. I still have 2 more to install over my power tool benches... and they've been sitting there waiting for me to install them for.. 5 years. drat.. where did all that time go.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:01
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Bucnasti posted:I got the one with the led light strip and it’s never worked right. I just got a pair of proper desk lamps on both sides now. There's a good chance they just never seated well enough to make electrical contact. There's also a chance - probably better - that you got burned and the return window closed years ago.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:13
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mllaneza posted:There's a good chance they just never seated well enough to make electrical contact. There's also a chance - probably better - that you got burned and the return window closed years ago. Yeah that’s exactly the problem, the strip would never stay connected. It was only 10$ more than the one without the lights so I didn’t bother returning it.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:16
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Volks restocked a few of their out of production SWS Zoukei-Mura kits: https://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=1870 Couple of interesting 1/32 vehicles. Kinda tempted to grab that 1/32 Kettenkrad, or the 1/32 J7W1.
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Jul 31, 2020 05:21
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While I wait for the decals for my AMG GT3 kit to be shipped from Spain I thought I'd pick up something else to keep me busy in the mean time and also something that doesn't need an aftermarket kit to make it pop. To that end I've been working on Tamiya's xanavi nismo gt-r. I've got it up to decalling stage and theres about 100 to make the scheme work. I'm slightly worried about the chrome plate roof thats included in the kit but I tested out some ts13 on some scrap spure and it didn't affect the finish so I think I'll glue it on before I do the decals and clear coat. I'm also getting better at masking things as this one didn't suffer from any paint bleed like previous models have.   
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Aug 1, 2020 06:08
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quote:Roden has announced it is resuming production of WW1 aircraft kits and our Forum's poll on the most wanted new kits has been an influence in their decision to resume WW1 production. hell yeah
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Aug 1, 2020 09:07
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I made a thing that's shockingly not a tank, although there's still a gun and armour!.    Full album: https://imgur.com/a/MvtBJkB This is a pretty involved conversion of the Bandai Boba Fett kit. The base kit is pretty high quality, although not as good as the Hi-Mock that I built for a crapkit group build in this very thread many years ago. A lot of the parts needed filling and sanding even without taking the conversion into account, plus there are parts of the joints where the tolerances are too tight and the paint gets scraped off instantly.
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Aug 1, 2020 20:10
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Ensign Expendable posted:I made a thing that's shockingly not a tank, although there's still a gun and armour!. Awesome paint work IMO and the cape looks great. I was shocked at how large it was when you show it with the Hi-Mock, I honestly thought it was just a tiny and very well done miniature until that picture!
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Aug 1, 2020 22:13
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Thanks! The base kit is 1:12 scale, so it's quite large. This is the second largest figure I ever built, beaten only by the 1:9 scale Captain America. Here's the Mandalorian next to a 1:16 figure and a 1:35 scale tank, to show the size. 
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Aug 1, 2020 22:24
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Nice work! Love the cape; mixed media on kits really brings things to life.
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Aug 1, 2020 23:28
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Yeah, I'm very happy with how the cape turned out, especially the torn parts at the bottom, it's probably my favourite part of the finished work. All the capes on official figures look like garbage.
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Aug 1, 2020 23:42
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