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Zodack posted:This works amazingly for about ten seconds and then even with two drops of Airbush Flow Improver, which I believe is a drying retardant, I still have terrible dry tip, speckle, and block blockage. I have to clean the nozzle and force air through to clear my airway again. This happens with primer, too, but that stuff dries faster and thicker than regular paint. What airbrush do you have?
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Aug 14, 2020 01:12
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Gripweed posted:Make a full figure out of Acguy arms.
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Aug 14, 2020 01:18
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my jegan plans are already getting out of my comfort zone, i'm excited
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Aug 14, 2020 01:25
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Just finished my preliminary build for the contest. Now time to take it apart and start painting.
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Aug 14, 2020 01:27
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MizPiz posted:Just finished my preliminary build for the contest. Now time to take it apart and start painting. Why on earth are you assembling, and then disassembling to paint ? That can't be an efficient workflow. Of course, if it's more fun for you that way, then I have no objections to that. But... why ? I've been painting whole assemblies at a time. An arm or a leg has multiple colors, which adds steps in airbrushing, but doing all the colors in batches seems too confusing when you do start to build. Four or five passes of airbrushing later, and I can put together a whole arm, leg or torso. That gives me real progress, which helps keep momentum up on a build.
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Aug 14, 2020 01:43
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mllaneza posted:Why on earth are you assembling, and then disassembling to paint ? I'm planning on a pre-paint build for mine just because I plan on adding bits and want to be sure of the looks before I proceed
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Aug 14, 2020 01:59
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mllaneza posted:Why on earth are you assembling, and then disassembling to paint ? It's my first time and I wanted to get a better idea of what pieces needed which color. Also, I just wanted build it first.
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Aug 14, 2020 02:03
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Minnesota Mixup posted:What airbrush do you have? Badger Patriot 105. Old reliable. Sentiment from others is that water based acrylic white pigment is always garbage and I'm inclined to agree. Thinning the paint got me to a happy medium.
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Aug 14, 2020 02:05
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mllaneza posted:Why on earth are you assembling, and then disassembling to paint ? I can't speak for the OP but disassembling into individual parts seems far and away the most common way of doing things when painting gunpla. Masking is one of the most tedious and frustrating aspects in any type of scale modelling and the great advantage of Bandai's kits is that you can often minimise this by painting in separate parts. My workflow is to assemble once and assess what fixes and modifications need to be done. I will write a todo list of the work that needs to be done and take notes of anything I might need to keep in mind. This step will often take some time and the model might sit there for a while or even go back into the box until I'm ready to paint. I might also dust a light coat of primer on to the whole model or its sub-assemblies to make it clear what parts are visible once disassembled. Then it gets taken apart and sorted into different colours and sections (head, torso, legs, arms, weapons). I used to get worried about not being able to identify various parts later but in practice is a lot easier than you might think as long as you keep things even slightly organised. Multi-compartment trays or even takeaway food containers come in very handy. You can still work on sub-assemblies this way which is what I've been doing on my most recent build since it's my first MG. Once the colour coat is down I'll then re-assemble each sub-assembly and do the panel lining, decals and top coats as a whole. For simpler HGs etc I'll paint all the parts of a single colour at once. Generally priming and base-coating the whole kit in one or two sessions. It can be slow going when balancing against work and family time but for me the process is its own reward. YMMV off course and the last thing I want to do is tell anyone they're doing things the wrong way. The great thing about gunpla is you can get rewarding results from any level of effort you decide to put in.
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Aug 14, 2020 02:51
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Well this is interesting. Supernova heavyarms Igel, but doesn't have a real box or anything which is a bit sad since I love the theme of the other ones :/ Dayum it's a lot of parts though. https://imgur.com/gallery/5E6A6Sb Vahtooch fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 03:24
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Yeah, people tend to assemble the model first before disassembling to paint. It also has the bonus of you being able to see areas you want to add detail to and what not in a way that you wouldn't be able to tell if they were just individual pieces, since a lot of people don't just paint. A lot of builders will do a test fit after they prime as well. Some even prime first before any customization or detailing so that they aren't subconsciously working with the kits base color separation, and it's easier to see scratches and nub marks and stuff. also it's just better to have a homogeneous surface while scribing everythingWasBees fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 04:17
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i've been putting together the Macross 7 kits Bandai did lately and i wish there was more of this level of stuff available for the overall franchise. admittedly i haven't looked too deeply into things, but the impression i've always gotten is that Macross kits are a larger scale and more high end, the kind of thing that requires cement and glue and painting and stuff to do, and that people want to be able to transform and stuff. whereas i'm a super casual builder who's happy to just sit down with a High Grade-ish level kit for a couple of hours and get a neat little figure out at the end even if you can see where i cut from the sprue and there's bits that could be more detailed and stuff even though my favourite mode is Gerwalk and the battroid figures end up a little dinky, i really enjoy these kits and the fact that you get a fighter and a figure means i don't really care that they can't transform. if i could get something like this for the VF1-J, VF1-S, and VF-2SS i'd buy them in a heartbeat. something a bit more modern and HG would be preferable, but all the same i'd take something on the level of these Macross 7 kits over nothing (i love the VF11-MAXL so i'm already happy to have her, regardless of how solid pink and white she is)
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Aug 14, 2020 05:12
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Bandai made some VF-1 A and S kits in 2013, look into those.
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Aug 14, 2020 06:57
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On the subject of assembling or disassembling before painting, Schizophonic9 has actually just put up some guides with probably some more to come. Of course it's all in Japanese but you can still get the basic idea from the pictures and Google-sensei. Part 1: Seams and processing for later assembly http://schizophonic9.com/re6/rx78build1.html Part 2: Surfaces and surfacer http://schizophonic9.com/re6/rx78build2.html The way I've seen every high level Japanese guide do it, this one included, is they cut tabs and modify parts so assemblies like joints etc. can be slid and glued into place during final assembly. In the guide he demonstrates it using the head.
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Aug 14, 2020 09:43
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Zodack posted:Badger Patriot 105. Old reliable. Sentiment from others is that water based acrylic white pigment is always garbage and I'm inclined to agree. Thinning the paint got me to a happy medium. Cheat mode is to get some white acrylic ink. It's extremely thin out of the bottle, so you can dump it in and spray very light coats to minimize spatter. A couple bucks for a bottle of Liquitex will keep you set for ages. I've found it'll rub off a little easier than regular paint, since there's less binder, so make sure you varnish once you're done. - Subassemblies are an entirely normal thing, but y'all building a whole robot then tearing it down to paint are weird.
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Aug 14, 2020 14:11
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The Bandai 1/20 scopedog seems to be being sold for more than twice the retail price on ebay or out of stock on every digital storefront I’ve looked at so far, both the regular and red shoulder variants. How often does that kit get rereleased?
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Aug 14, 2020 14:44
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grassy gnoll posted:Cheat mode is to get some white acrylic ink. It's extremely thin out of the bottle, so you can dump it in and spray very light coats to minimize spatter. A couple bucks for a bottle of Liquitex will keep you set for ages. I've found it'll rub off a little easier than regular paint, since there's less binder, so make sure you varnish once you're done. You're the third person to suggest this, so I've ordered a bottle from amazon. I'm new to trying highlights and the results so far I would rate as "kind of okay" given what I'm working with. Luckily I have a sonic cleaner so if I bork anything I can just strip it. Appreciate the ink tip
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Aug 14, 2020 15:48
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TaurusOxford posted:As long as you've learned your lesson from doing it, it's okay. Even I fell into the trap once. What I learnt is I'll break my own principles for a RG Tallgeese II, and I'd break them again for a HG Varguil if the opportunity presented itself. 
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Aug 14, 2020 16:15
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Oh absolutely. First thing I'm doing with my airbrush after I move is switching out that dumb Moon Gundam head with a Graze head or something and throwing a nice purple shade on there.
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Aug 14, 2020 16:32
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 Time to do a crime in the name of science.
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Aug 14, 2020 20:17
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They just announced the kits you can get from the online Gundam Expo and it's pretty much all the cool Gundam Base exclusives.
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Aug 14, 2020 21:29
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Diet Poison posted:I'm also trying to figure out how I could give a gundam a long serpentlike tail, something more substantial than the Tallgeese/Epyon power-whip thing which I've seen used before. My first thought is 4-6 Cielnova legs but I can't figure out how to link them. http://dalong.net/reviews/bf/bd07/bd07_p.htm This thing comes with a pretty long tail 
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Aug 15, 2020 04:57
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Booourns posted:http://dalong.net/reviews/bf/bd07/bd07_p.htm It does! You’ll be longing for MG Zaku tubes about halfway through though.
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Aug 15, 2020 05:20
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Been a while since I posted my recent stuff in here. I've been posting on discord though so I'm sure some of you have seen them already. Verde Buster, Stargazer and Astray blue frame - All old kits but pretty good.  P-Bandai RG Astray Gold Frame - Fiddly fucker that it is.  P-Bandai HG Geminass - Simple yet neat. I suspect it was meant to be a regular release but corona hosed it up or something.  RG Strike Freedom - gently caress that gold plating so much.  P-Bandai Eldora Daughtress - Simple, cheap, fun.  And the surprisingly fun but strange Wodom Pod  Still got a buttload of stuff to get through, including the RG Full Armour Unicorn. Really need to get a hold of a hazel custom or the PB TR-1 Haze'n Thley to go with the woundwort. Anyone know a good tutorial to make or can recommend a good HG/MG size lightbox? My photo setup sucks.
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Aug 15, 2020 06:26
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For anyone who's built an RG Zaku II, how good/bad is it? I'm trying to decide if I want that or the The Origin Zaku II C-6/R6. They both have a ton of detail for a Zaku and I love the rifle that comes with the C-6/R6, but there's a part of me insisting the RG must be better just because it's an RG kit.
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Aug 15, 2020 11:16
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Sykic posted:For anyone who's built an RG Zaku II, how good/bad is it? I'm trying to decide if I want that or the The Origin Zaku II C-6/R6. They both have a ton of detail for a Zaku and I love the rifle that comes with the C-6/R6, but there's a part of me insisting the RG must be better just because it's an RG kit. The RG's a pretty early design, so it has some major flaws, including the most pain-in-the-rear end piping imaginable. Go for the Origins version.
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Aug 15, 2020 11:25
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Mephiston posted:P-Bandai HG Geminass - Simple yet neat. I suspect it was meant to be a regular release but corona hosed it up or something. Nah, it was originally announced late Jan/early Feb so long before corona was a consideration.
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Aug 15, 2020 13:53
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Sykic posted:For anyone who's built an RG Zaku II, how good/bad is it? I'm trying to decide if I want that or the The Origin Zaku II C-6/R6. They both have a ton of detail for a Zaku and I love the rifle that comes with the C-6/R6, but there's a part of me insisting the RG must be better just because it's an RG kit. I'm building the RG Zaku II right now, just have stickers left. Like most RGs the stickers are a right pain in the butt, with some really tiny ones. Outside of those, the pipes are annoying too as mentioned by others, but not too bad IMO. As long as you don't let them slip off the tubing and be in some random order, it does matter.
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Aug 15, 2020 14:37
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The stickers for the RG Zaku broke me. I used to put all the stickers listed on the instructions on, but I just found the Zaku ones so fiddly that I decided to say "gently caress it" and skipped out on a bunch.
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Aug 15, 2020 14:59
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I'm doing most of them, but I lost a couple thanks to bad timing on my fan/AC. A couple of my panels will never be shiny...
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Aug 15, 2020 15:12
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Veotax posted:The stickers for the RG Zaku broke me. I used to put all the stickers listed on the instructions on, but I just found the Zaku ones so fiddly that I decided to say "gently caress it" and skipped out on a bunch. Im working on the same model currently. Having previously built the mk.2 and zeta, the stickers on the zaku are quite bad overall. They dont stick well. Wheres a good place to find water slides for 1/144s? I see some posted on ebay but not sure if they any good. Burns fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 15:38
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  I've been freed from sticker hell. The build itself was alright, leg-waist connection could be sturdier though.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:35
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Aight, here are some of my Gunpla test builds since Jan 2020. Arranged more or less chronologically. https://imgur.com/gallery/n1eMsVS Err let me know if photos are rotated correctly. Imgur is being a tool. Burns fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 23:32
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I was thinking it might be fun to join in the group build, but I realise I don't have anymore kits that fit. I usually get mine from trips to Japan but with the whole pandemic thing... where would folk in the UK recommend I get Gunpla from? I know about HLJ and Gundam Mad but I'm hoping to just find out more of my options. Also, as an aside, I'm sad (but glad?) that p-bandai won't ship here because there's some really neat looking kits on there. Not that's related to the group build.
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Aug 16, 2020 00:07
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I think I may have made a big mistake with my RG Sazabi? I finishing up the chest piece by putting on the armor around the shoulders, but it doesn't seem to fit correctly. Looking at it now I have a feeling I know why:  I don't think I have the shoulder joint piece pressed in completely on both sides. You can see a gap between that piece and the piece it is sitting in. I though I had it as far in as it was going to go (Or maybe I was afraid to force them in at risk of breaking the other piece clean in half). Either that or I screwed up making the shoulder pieces themselves. In either case I tried pushing it down further but either I can't or I don't have the leverage for it. Anyone that built that model can give an opinion on this?
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Aug 16, 2020 01:05
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It looks correct, just not fully seated. I remember having that problem on one side, I thiiiink I did the press + wiggle the joint to get it fully down? Dalong image, for comparison. 
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Aug 16, 2020 01:25
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LibrarianCroaker posted:It looks correct, just not fully seated. I remember having that problem on one side, I thiiiink I did the press + wiggle the joint to get it fully down? Yeah, that did it. Thanks!
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Aug 16, 2020 01:32
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In general if you've got a question like that dalong can often help, though of course asking for a second opinion is good.
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Aug 16, 2020 01:47
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Has anyone ordered something that wasn't in stock from Hobbylink Japan? How long do they take to get something if the restocking date is unknown?
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Aug 16, 2020 01:59
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hostess with the Moltres posted:Has anyone ordered something that wasn't in stock from Hobbylink Japan? How long do they take to get something if the restocking date is unknown? Could be days, could be months. What are you looking for?
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Aug 16, 2020 02:49
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