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I'm looking to switching back to a desktop from a laptop. The only thing I'll be keeping is the mouse. I want something that can run two monitors, at least one in 1440, and runs cool and quiet. Part of me wonders if I should switch to the Super 2080, but I'm not sure if the $200 is worth it. Mostly I'm looking for something I can not need to make changes to for three years or so. I'm also looking for keyboard recommendations. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($333.95 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI Z390-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($133.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ B&H) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($499.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Monitor: Dell P2418D 24.0" 2560x1440 60 Hz Monitor ($314.77 @ Amazon) Total: $1836.53 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 02:21 EDT-0400
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Aug 16, 2020 07:26
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Maigius posted:I'm looking to switching back to a desktop from a laptop. The only thing I'll be keeping is the mouse. I want something that can run two monitors, at least one in 1440, and runs cool and quiet. Part of me wonders if I should switch to the Super 2080, but I'm not sure if the $200 is worth it. Mostly I'm looking for something I can not need to make changes to for three years or so. I'm also looking for keyboard recommendations. Are you in any particular hurry to build this and switch? What I am doing, and what has been suggested, is to wait until the 30xx series NVIDIA boards are announced and released in the next couple of months. I also am looking at this PSU, fully modular and Platinum certified for $10 more than what you have listed: https://www.newegg.com/fractal-design-ion-fd-psu-ionp-760p-bk-760w/p/N82E16817580023
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Aug 16, 2020 12:35
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Maigius posted:I'm looking to switching back to a desktop from a laptop. The only thing I'll be keeping is the mouse. I want something that can run two monitors, at least one in 1440, and runs cool and quiet. Part of me wonders if I should switch to the Super 2080, but I'm not sure if the $200 is worth it. Mostly I'm looking for something I can not need to make changes to for three years or so. I'm also looking for keyboard recommendations. Why Intel? Also you're a generation behind on Intel, they up to 10xxx series. Samsung SSDs are a ripoff now as well.
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Aug 16, 2020 12:38
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I'm looking at a 10600K, 32Gb and a motherboard mostly for gaming to replace a 4790k on a Z97 Asus Maximus with 32Gb. Everything else in my build is recent enough to be fine. I'm using nvme, a 1080ti, have ~8 usb devices attached, 2 sata drives and a 1000W platinum psu. Figuring out the appropriate chipset requires more time than I have right now, is anyone able to give a quick rundown? There always seems to be some detail I miss when I rush it. Thanks!
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Aug 16, 2020 12:47
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whsa posted:I'm looking at a 10600K, 32Gb and a motherboard mostly for gaming to replace a 4790k on a Z97 Asus Maximus with 32Gb. Everything else in my build is recent enough to be fine. I'm using nvme, a 1080ti, have ~8 usb devices attached, 2 sata drives and a 1000W platinum psu. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iLS3poPn8o is a decent roundup of your Z490 options. 10600k is honestly the only intel part I'd... not even recommend, but at least consider seriously... for most people. Stick a huge fuckoff cooler on it and overclock the poo poo out of it if that's your thing and get 10900k gaming performance for way less money. Don't go too cheap on the mobo because, again, the whole point of going intel nowadays IMO is to OC it to ludicrous speed (and heat and power draw.) I'd still just buy a 3700X myself though.
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Aug 16, 2020 13:22
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Hey yall. For the past decade I've been using my first build, and even with all its quirkiness it's served me well, but the mobo refuses to boot with anything more than 8GB of memory and it's just becoming unbearable, especially with the pandemic making working from home more important than ever. This is what I have in my current machine that I could reuse: Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 2 GB Video Card Monitor: ViewSonic VA2431WM 23.6" 1920x1080 Monitor Monitor: Asus VS278Q-P 27.0" 1920x1080 Monitor I used the SSD solely as my system drive so I could reinstall without losing my data, but I get the impression it would work better to get a big NVMe and just make a system partition on it. I was also thinking I should reuse the video card until the big boys come out next month. I'm in the US. I'd want to use it for both gaming and video work: After Effects, DaVinci Resolve, Blender. Video work makes memory a must, I just don't know how much; I've been bottlenecked for so long that I want to go to 64GB, but I've heard that's overdoing it for most builds. Budget is $2000, which would include the graphics card if I'm buying that later. I've already got 2 monitors+mouse+keyboard, though the monitors are merely 1080p 60hz, and I'd definitely want a nicer monitor at some point. I'd want bluetooth but don't need wifi, and I get way too distracted by RGB lights. And the Define Meshify C is extremely tempting since my current machine is in a Fractal R4 which worked wonderfully (though from what I've read I'll need to get two separate fans for the front). Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I have little confidence in this kinda thing; my own judgement got me an extremely quirky motherboard and a graphics card that was outdated nigh-instantly. Still lasted me a decade though so I guess I did something right.
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Aug 16, 2020 13:41
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Pigbuster posted:I'm in the US. 64 GB is overkill, but $2000 can easily get you 64 GB. The Meshify C is a great case. I'd personally not reuse that SSD, since larger SSDs are faster (bigger size means more memory banks that can be addressed in parallel). Bluetooth support tends to come on WiFi cards on desktops, so you're probably getting both, but that's ok, it's cheap. Your feelings are correct in that you should wait for new cards if you can, especially with that budget.
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Aug 16, 2020 13:53
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Pigbuster posted:Hey yall. For the past decade I've been using my first build, and even with all its quirkiness it's served me well, but the mobo refuses to boot with anything more than 8GB of memory and it's just becoming unbearable, especially with the pandemic making working from home more important than ever. Something like this? I'm assuming you wait for the RTX 3000 series and setting aside $500 for that. Otherwise you can get a 2070 Super for right at $500 if you shop around (and are lucky with what's in stock at the moment.) PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor ($429.00 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($63.75 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon) Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($249.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC 3X Video Card ($499.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($136.93 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Total: $1968.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 09:09 EDT-0400 Also the Mesify C is actually perfectly fine stock, it's just that if you replace the 1 front 120mm with 2x140mm its airflow is downright fantastic. If you don't want to bother with adding fans it doesn't matter for 90%+ of users honestly. It's more that high airflow cases with better stock fan setups than the Meshify C almost always come with RGB disco ball bullshit. You can easily drop to a 3700X and still be wayyyyyyyyyy ahead of where you are now. 32 GB is probably such a big upgrade over 8 GB in doing actual work that it would still seem like a miracle and probably be plenty, plus you can always just add more later. You can drop the M.2 drive to "only" 1 TB if you won't need 2 anytime soon. For your work I think a 2060 Super is actually plenty, but for games you really want to wait for the RTX 3000 series if you can stand it. I actually like Crucial Ballistx RAM slightly more but everything in the bigger kits is out of stock except the RGB bling poo poo it looks like. You could go B550 or X570 for the board here. At the same price point B550 tends to have nicer "extras" like 2.5G lan and BIOS flashback and newer audio codecs, but it does limit how many devices you can plug into SATA/PCIe at the extremes vs. x570, which may or may not matter for your work. B550-F: 1x PCie 4.0 x4 M.2, 1x PCIe 3.0 4x M.2, 4x SATA vs. 2x PCIe 4.0 x4, 6x SATA for the typical x570. B550 are also sometimes constrained on PCIe slot use in ways that x570 boards aren't, so if you're using multiple add-in cards for work that can be a factor too. TUF X570 is sort of at the point where quality in terms of VRMs/PCB is where it can handle everything you can throw at it, and LAN/audio/etc. are fine but you don't get a lot of RGB bling or BIOS flashback, which if you're just sticking a current AMD CPU in kind of doesn't matter. The B550-F Wifi has the build quality and some extra goodies like BIOS flashback and intel 2.5g lan, but also costs a bit more and has the B550 limitations that I described... but those only really matter on edge cases most users don't ever see, and otherwise it performs just like a quality X570 board in tests. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 14:23
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sean10mm posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iLS3poPn8o is a decent roundup of your Z490 options. Well I suck, I actually got into the idea of finally upgrading to the 10600k from his video, no idea why I didn’t check for motherboards. The level of detail is awesome on both his research and delivery. Thanks for linking!
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Aug 16, 2020 14:33
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whsa posted:Well I suck, I actually got into the idea of finally upgrading to the 10600k from his video, no idea why I didn’t check for motherboards. The level of detail is awesome on both his research and delivery. One thing to bear in mind is the real power draw of an OC'd 10600K is like 220 watts and an OC'd 10900K runs over 300. 
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Aug 16, 2020 14:51
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Intel is straight up bad value. The 10600K is down 2 cores to the 3700X for the same money. Z490 mobos are more expensive for the same quality of features. And you are burning a whole lot of watts on top of an already hot CPU to get value from that "K" on the end. Who should buy a Comet Lake intel: 1. professional CSGO players who can see 200 FPS 2. someone who needs an iGPU for some reason 3. you live in Alaska and a free spaceheater sounds good
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Aug 16, 2020 16:45
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Yeah the 3700X is the ultimate gaming CPU right now especially if you give a poo poo about heat and power draw. You really don’t want to add to the space heater video card you’ll likely put in. I’m expecting the new 3000 series to be blasting heat out worse than any 10900 now.
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Aug 16, 2020 16:55
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Maybe we are getting really shafted on pricing in Canada. I was toying with building a new setup with 10700/H470, 10600k/Z490 or 3700x/X570/B550 and they are all really close in total cost. It feels like X570/B550 motherboards really wipe out most of the savings from Ryzen pricing.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:00
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Been saving my pennies during lock down in order to update my pc that's from 2012. It's been a while since I've built one so RGB headers etc are going to be a head scratcher for myself. Mainly wanting it for gaming, with light amount of MS office work and general internet browsing. PC Parts Picker is saying that there is an issue with the USB C connection but I'm sure the motherboard says it's got ample 3.2 connection, also the 2080 super is in there as a placeholder budget for a 30xx series card, any critique is welcome. -Edit- my bad looks like it doesn't have enough usb headers, any motherboard recommends would be very helpful. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£289.29 @ Amazon UK) CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (£139.99 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard (£217.50 @ Amazon UK) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (£151.86 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£95.00 @ Amazon UK) Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£95.00 @ Amazon UK) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card (£862.47 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: NZXT H510i ATX Mid Tower Case (£99.98 @ Amazon UK) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£114.51 @ Amazon UK) Monitor: LG 27GL850-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor (£439.00 @ Currys PC World) Total: £2504.60 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 21:23 BST+0100 MonkeyLibFront fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 21:26
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iv46vi posted:Maybe we are getting really shafted on pricing in Canada. I was toying with building a new setup with 10700/H470, 10600k/Z490 or 3700x/X570/B550 and they are all really close in total cost. It feels like X570/B550 motherboards really wipe out most of the savings from Ryzen pricing. Maybe it's a Canada thing, but in the US you can get a quality B550 board for ~$120
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Aug 16, 2020 21:58
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MonkeyLibFront posted:Been saving my pennies during lock down in order to update my pc that's from 2012. 1) Why are you water cooling it? The 3700X doesn't run very hot and it's not much of an overclocking chip anyway. 2) Why are you using 2x 1 TB SSDs instead of 1x 2 TB SSD? Generally bigger SSDs run faster and the pricing is usually more or less the same. 3) The Crucial P1 uses inferior QLC memory. For almost identical money you can get an SN550, or for slightly more an SN750 or SX8200 Pro. The price savings you get for the lower performance & worse endurance is extremely mediocre IMO 4) The comparability warning is because that case has a Type C USB port and the motherboard doesn't have a header for it, which is different than "normal" USB 3.x. If you don't care about having USB-C you can just get a case that doesn't have the port like the Meshify C or S2. Otherwise you could get a B550M Mortar WiFi for it looks like £150.98. e: Maybe something more like this? PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor (£281.94 @ Aria PC) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler (£63.05 @ Amazon UK) Motherboard: MSI MAG B550M MORTAR WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (£150.98 @ Box Limited) Memory: Crucial Ballistix RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (£178.99 @ Amazon UK) Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive (£227.99 @ AWD-IT) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB STRIX GAMING Advanced Video Card (£862.47 @ Scan.co.uk) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P500A ATX Mid Tower Case (£88.99 @ AWD-IT) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (£111.99 @ Amazon UK) Monitor: LG 27GL850-B 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor (£439.00 @ Currys PC World) Total: £2405.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 22:27 BST+0100 e: I don't pay a lot of attention to monitors so if you have questions about that you should probably ask the monitor thread. sean10mm fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 22:21
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Can someone give me a quick rundown on modern RGB stuff? So I'm building a PC for a friend and he wants some RGB. I've made sure the motherboard we pick has an RGB header, but...how does that work? Do I need a controller or can the motherboard control everything through an RGB header? I'm adding some RGB RAM, a light strip, and some case fans. I know they have to be addressable-RGB, is that all I need?
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Aug 16, 2020 22:27
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sean10mm posted:1) Why are you water cooling it? The 3700X doesn't run very hot and it's not much of an overclocking chip anyway. 1) mainly for space saving, as I'm not sure how big the new 30XX cards are going to be, if size isn't an issue I'll just go for non AIO. 2)I was going for a 500gb and 1 tb for OS and then a media/games drive but kinda went gently caress it, last time I built a pc SSDs were a fabled unicorn. 3)I didn't realise that and so I'll have a little dig and see what you've suggested, like I said it's been a very long time since I've built or read up on hardware. 4)Yeah I realised that when I switched my choice and re read the specs once I'd posted, my bad again thanks for the suggestion.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:33
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I think most people in this thread will go for the SN550. Unfortunately it doesn't come in 2TB sizes but the WD Black does at a vastly higher price.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:53
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MonkeyLibFront posted:1) mainly for space saving, as I'm not sure how big the new 30XX cards are going to be, if size isn't an issue I'll just go for non AIO. GPU size doesn't get in the way of processor cooling, except in very niche small builds in tiny cases where airflow can be blocked or w/e
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Aug 16, 2020 22:57
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If you are going AIO water cooling, the Arctic Cooler Freezer 2 is generally considered better than the Kraken (although they're both perfectly good).
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Aug 16, 2020 23:02
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Butterfly Valley posted:GPU size doesn't get in the way of processor cooling, except in very niche small builds in tiny cases where airflow can be blocked or w/e I still have a 212 from my old build, I'm assuming bugger all has changed?
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Aug 16, 2020 23:46
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Looks like that's still a popular choice for cooling Ryzens, however your older model won't have included the necessary bracket to fit it to AM4 motherboards. Upgrade kits were available at one point but might be hard to find now. Having said all that the stock cooler that comes with the 3700X is perfectly adequate for your needs so you could save money there and only buy a new cooler if you think the stock one gets too loud.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:25
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Okay, so my thinking now is to go ahead and build a new computer, minus the GPU, and use the 1070 I have now until the RTX3k series drops in [ETA UNKNOWN]. My goal, after upgrading to the 3000, is max settings at 1080p and able to handle VR for games like Elite Dangerous and Alyx. It would be nice if I could go to 1440p at max settings for the coming wave of next-gen releases, but I imagine the RTX3ks should handle that in stride. So here is the plan: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($283.55 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock B550 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Gold 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.99 @ Western Digital) Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Tempered Glass ATX Full Tower Case ($109.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Cooler Master MWE Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $1068.44 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 19:37 EDT-0400 With price fluctuations where they are, would it be better to pull the trigger now and wait on the GPU, or just wait for the new GPUs and hope that prices have dropped with potentially new CPUs dropping?
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Aug 17, 2020 00:43
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For a 2TB NVMe drive the HP EX950 is priced quite well. Pretty much the only one that's not got a $50 extra tacked on just for being big. e: Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($59.95 @ Amazon) At that ~$50 point a thread favorite cooler is the scythe mugen 5. Klyith fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 00:43
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Mu Zeta posted:Maybe it's a Canada thing, but in the US you can get a quality B550 board for ~$120 I am in Canada but PC Partpicker has US Z490 prices on par with B550 prices in the US as well. The Intel tax is no longer that big and should be offered if the user prefers Intel. The heat/power efficiency thing is a minor thing guys. Though not having PCIE Gen 4 might matter later on in the PC's lifespan.
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Aug 17, 2020 01:06
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I haven't checked the intel prices but I guess the question is why pay any taxes at all? I get the argument for going Nvidia in video cards depending on the situation but I really don't see why you should pay more for an Intel processor unless it's a very specific use case. Also you need to add the cost of a cooler to most Intel stuff too.
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Aug 17, 2020 01:12
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Mu Zeta posted:I haven't checked the intel prices but I guess the question is why pay any taxes at all? I get the argument for going Nvidia in video cards depending on the situation but I really don't see why you should pay more for an Intel processor unless it's a very specific use case. Also you need to add the cost of a cooler to most Intel stuff too. Shrug, some people have brand preferences. We should ask why but I don't think it is necessary to railroad people onto an AM4 platform specifically anymore or dogpile on Intel endlessly. AMD is still obviously the baseline recommendation for the general brand-agnostic person asking for a PC build.
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Aug 17, 2020 01:31
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MikeC posted:The Intel tax is no longer that big and should be offered if the user prefers Intel. Sure, if someone articulates that they want an intel-based system that's fine. But most people proposing intel builds ITT don't have an intel-only policy. They are either out of the loop and haven't heard that AMD is good now, or they have a reason that invites further questions to make sure they have all the data. For example: gaming. The 10600 is faster in most games than a 3700X right now. (If you have a $1200 GPU.) But over the life of the system, is that going to hold true? As I said, the 10600 is down 2 cores to the 3700X. Personally I don't think that will matter for quite a few years -- I continue to think the 6C/12T 3600 is a perfectly good purchase for a 5 year expected life build. But if one of the 10600 or 3700X is gonna turn into a pumpkin, I'd bet on the 10600. Based on recent history I'm surprised Intel HQ isn't a giant gourd right now.
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Aug 17, 2020 01:38
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GOOD TIMES ON METH posted:Hello I realized today that my CPU/MB/Power supply are over 6 years old and the latter is now out of warranty, so I am using the vague threat of my computer blowing up as an excuse to price out replacing these components. I already have a GTX1080 that is probably fine for another year or two and will just reuse storage, case, monitor, etc. Let me know if there are any suggestions to improve the list below. I'll be using it for work (spreadsheet stuff) and reasonably playing games on a 1440p 144hz monitor. Thanks. This has been great so far except I have been getting quite a bit of packet loss with this motherboard. I installed the latest intel lan drives and flashed the bios with the lastest firmware and it is still there. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Aug 17, 2020 02:44
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I posted a build in this thread earlier in the year with a view to building out a new machine. Unfortunately, I never got around to it for various reasons. Events this past weekend have forced my hand a bit though (my old desktop, built in 2013, started throwing up page fault BSODs that I couldn't fix), and I figured this was pretty good excuse to upgrade. Use case is a combination of gaming and work, with the latter primarily being PDFs, word processing and large excel files. From a gaming perspective, looking to get to max settings at 1080p with capacity to push into higher defs in the future. Most of the parts from my old PC still function okay, but it was based around a Haswell CPU and everything is pretty dated as a result, so if I'm going to replace it I figure I might as well upgrade everything at the same time. I've updated the build I ended up settling on with advice from the thread earlier per below. Based in Australia, would prefer to use PCCG for everything if I can. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($329.00 @ PCCaseGear) CPU Cooler: *be quiet! Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler ($119.00 @ PCCaseGear) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($215.00 @ PCCaseGear) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($129.00 @ PCCaseGear) Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($249.00 @ PCCaseGear) Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($109.00 @ PCCaseGear) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB WINDFORCE OC Video Card ($999.00) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.00 @ PCCaseGear) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($239.00) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($189.00 @ PCCaseGear) Wireless Network Adapter: Asus USB-AC68 USB 3.0 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($129.00 @ PCCaseGear) Total: $2805.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-17 11:40 AEST+1000 My key questions that I'm looking for advice on are as follows:
Any advice on the above would be greatly appreciated - it's been over seven years since I last built a system so I'm pretty unfamiliar with what's available in the market currently.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:13
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Does this list make more sense? I want to get the think built sooner rather than later. My laptops seems like it's on it's last later and I need a computer for work. I'm not a big enough PC gamer to really want the cutting edge of the 30XX series. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($283.55 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. B 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($139.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ B&H) Storage: ADATA XPG GAMMIX S11 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($134.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($499.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($88.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Fractal Design Ion+ 760 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM 64.92 CFM 140 mm Fan ($14.95 @ Amazon) Monitor: Dell P2418D 24.0" 2560x1440 60 Hz Monitor ($314.77 @ Amazon) Total: $1871.14 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-16 22:44 EDT-0400
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Aug 17, 2020 03:49
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Enormously helpful, thank you! I think I'll go with the Ryzen 9 and X570 while cutting out the video card and the extra fans, while sticking to just 32GB.
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Aug 17, 2020 09:02
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manyleeks posted:Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($189.00 @ PCCaseGear) OS: Win10 will still activate on Win7 keys, so if you have one of those around from any source it's free. Otherwise buy a cheap key from SAmart, there are two goons who resell bulk keys. Cooling: If the main thing you're concerned about is background noise while making calls, a cheaper cooler will do the job just fine. I presume you don't take important business calls while playing a video game, so a low noise at idle seems like it would do the job. The bequiet goes beyond that by having low noise even when the CPU has load, but it's also mildly overkill on a 3600. A deepcool gammax, hyper 212, or arctic 34 are all cheaper options that will be very quiet during normal desktop use. OTOH a good cooler lasts as long as the socket dimensions stay compatible, and the higher end guys like noctua & bequiet are better about offering new socket kits. So it's also justifiable as a use-it-for-a-decade thing. Maigius posted:Does this list make more sense? Looks good! Do you already own the 860 Evo SSD? If you're carrying that forward whatevs, but if buying new the WD Blue or MX500 are cheaper for the same performance & quality.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:41
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GOOD TIMES ON METH posted:This has been great so far except I have been getting quite a bit of packet loss with this motherboard. I installed the latest intel lan drives and flashed the bios with the lastest firmware and it is still there. Anyone have any suggestions? That’s apparently a known issue with intel on these: https://wccftech.com/intel-foxville-i225-v-2-5gbe-networking-issues-persist-z490-motherboards-affected/ https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsa...utm_name=iossmf
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Aug 17, 2020 15:34
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iv46vi posted:That’s apparently a known issue with intel on these: "There is no mitigation, besides manually setting the controller to work in 1 GbE mode in Intel Network Connections driver control panel." So at least Good Times on Meth can have a working network connection even if it isn't the speed he paid for. Also holy poo poo intel, you're a mess! Get it together or people will be turning down intel products in favor of realtek.
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Aug 17, 2020 15:46
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One last thing, is there any appreciable differences between the SATA 6 Gb/s and M.2 (B+M) interfaces? I see Western Digital Blues at the same capacity and price but using both those interfaces. I just want to know if I should prefer one over the other.
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Aug 17, 2020 20:09
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Maigius posted:One last thing, is there any appreciable differences between the SATA 6 Gb/s and M.2 (B+M) interfaces? I see Western Digital Blues at the same capacity and price but using both those interfaces. I just want to know if I should prefer one over the other. M.2 is a connector, drives that go into it can use SATA or NMVe. The sata ones are exactly the same as their 2.5" sata counterparts. So for the WD Blue example, the only benefit is that you plug in a gumstick and don't have power & data wires. NVMe drives are a lot faster -- often 4x or more maximum transfer rate. For example, the WD SN750 can hit 3400 MB/s while a WD Blue is limited to sata's 600 MB/s practical speed. However, that speed difference is often not particularly noticeable in practice. SSDs that max out the sata bus are already supplying data as fast as the CPU can crunch it most of the time. If a game loads in 29 seconds instead of 30 you really can't tell without a stopwatch. However, new consoles will have high speed NVMe class drives in them, so future games may take advantage of these speeds. Klyith fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 20:17
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Looking to add a 2nd ssd as my primary 512 gb M.2 is nearing full, mainly storing large video game installs. Already have a 1 TB HDD for everything except OS and video game files, planning on adding an SSD SATA drive as a new volume. Is this a good idea or should I be doing something different?
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Aug 17, 2020 20:42
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Just wanted to ask. Is the chipset fan on X570 motherboards really such a bad thing? I'm finding a lot of people are staying with B450-B550 just to avoid the extra fan. One of the reasons I bought the X570 Tomahawk was because the fan was located well below where the video card would be and thus there wouldn't be any interference or heat contamination between the two.
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Aug 17, 2020 20:53
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